wenisman

On that note, does anyone have a toyota ke20/ke26v parts catalogue that they are willing to part with? I have the collision parts manual but that only covers the body parts. I am looking primarily for the suspension parts and the interior parts.

That looks great, the toothed wheel turned out better than I would have thought being laser cut too. But the efi conversion is certainly coming along, should be enough to set up the efi now

https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/products/04122-0855662115-9780855662110-Gregorys-Repair-Manual-Book/ZPN-25461..._ There's plenty around, Google will be your friend in this one. Also a few on ebay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/233607922634

I had the same with amayama, they have cancelled the order as the parts are no longer available. Now I'm waiting for the money to be refunded... Not a great purchase experience

I just had the same experience with amayama. They couldn't confirm the frame number, so I sent them pics of the chassis plate. Then they asked for payment but haven't confirmed of they can get them yet However apparently the seals I want are in stock, so I've paid and will have to wait and see.

Otherwise i was looking at something like the datsun 1200 wagon which has similar windows. ive seen replacement rubbers for those and so just trying to find out if its a roughly equal size. then i might be able to make them fit, but a direct replacement would be better. SO maybe ill keep up with toyota heritage and see what they come up with too

Hey Pete, according to amayama they are available. So ive put the order in and I will see whats available. thanks again for your help. Toyota heritage are looking at making reproduction seals, so i will wait and see what they come up with. cheers for all your help, if youre in sydney ill buy you a beer or two!

Hey pete, so if in reading this right, the parts I'm after are the 68188-13010, 68189-13010 (for the door quarter windows) 62743-13030, 62744-13030 (for the rear sides windows) is this correct? sorry ive never used the parts catalogue so just making sure that I'm seeing this right, thanks for your help though, greatly appreciated!

Hey Parrot, if you do have the part number of the side rear window seal, and the rear quarter window seal that would be great. this part just seems to be as rare as rocking horse poo... I have highlighted the two seals that i need on both sides of the car. I'm just about to put the new shocks in the rear, but i was going to replace the ubolts and shackles. So i am looking for replacement shackles, if anyone knows some that fit it would be appreciated.

hey parrot, their shipping seems to have come down. only cost me $30 to have shocks, bolts, lug nuts, and some seals sent over. came via fedex and in about 1.5 weeks so i can't complain. given their prices are generally pretty good, if you have a list of parts then you can buy a few things and it all balances out. i shudder to think how much shipping in individual ebay items has cost me. but the hunt for parts is real, like finding replacement shackles for the rear leaf springs, and don't get me started on the rear side window seals for the ke26 4dr wagon. but i will keep searching, its all we can do

hey k3twent, i purchased these ones for my rolla, the bolts where a little on the small side so i had a little trouble getting one nut on. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/COROLLA-KE20-TE27-KE25-KE26-TE28-TE21-STRUT-MOUNT-MOUNTING-SHOCK-LH-RH/160821043550?hash=item2571ae615e:g:VnQAAOxyFjNSPpkL&frcectupt=true they did fit well but i will be upgrading to coilovers at some stage (who knows how long a build will take) and then i will use camber plates. if i had my time again i would probably just order from rockauto, i know ive said it before but they are a good resource for you https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1974,corolla,1.2l+l4,1367614,suspension,strut+mount,7600

hey banjo, i would be interested on your thoughts on the quality of the trigger wheel. if you give it a thumbs up then i might order one as well, cheers G

i just purchased some kyb for my ke26 wagon and they we $36 per shock and the shipping was about $30 all in AUD. but looking at the monroe website, you can find the struts that should fit your car. if you are in australia then monroe list the 805014MM https://www.monroe.com.au/trade-corner/catalogue-search.html?cat_make=TOYOTA&cat_model=Corolla&cat_year=1974&search_type=make_model_year&form_used=sidebar doing a little google you can pick them up from $100-$160. the $160 was from supercheapauto if that helps

hey k3twent, welcome you can generally buy the inserts, check rockauto.com. you can also buy the inserts from monroe (the gt gas series from memory works), kyb also do direct factory replacements something like this search will help, obviously search for the year and style of your car as this search is for my car: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1974,corolla,1.2l+l4,1367614,suspension,strut,7584

Hey Banjo, whilst trolling the interwebs i found that you can get smaller pickups like these, its just the sensor without the bottom plate https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Brand-New-J520-Ignition-Control-Crank_60702769841.html?spm=a2700.8267363.selected.1.2ce43e5f4meR3c i am not sure what the minimum disc size that is required but I'm asking the guy selling them to see what we can get away with. this might be enough to fit inside a denso style with a 50mm disc or maybe even 40-45mm just would need larger holes cut in it? although i think this is an optical sensor, i am not sure if the sr20 cas is an optical or hall effect?

Hey Banjo, thanks for the update, that is a huge difference in the sizes and the cas looks like it needs the bosch dizzy to fit. However if the dizzy i bought was too small i was going to hack it off at the red line, and in the tafe class i would use the lathe to turn out a new body large enough that i can bolt on to the base of the dizzy left after i cut it off. hopefully its just tapping the holes in the base and using some screws that can go through the cas sensor, through the new body and into the base of the dizzy. so once tafe opens again I will continue the machining course, or until i can get a lathe at home and then try turning this out myself. however I work in IT so the electronics and wiring is the easy bit for me, the mechanical and machining is the learning. The only question i would have is the base is steel and i would most likely turn out am aluminium part so i am a little concerned of galvanic corrosion so i might put a brass plate in there to stop that.

There are a number of places where you can buy a full throttle body kit. Efihardware comes to mind, but it won't be cheap however you will get more reliability over carbs for example. However you will need an ecu, cam sensor, fuel pumps, filter and surge tank to make it work if you're replacing the carb. Twin Weber's are an option, but you will still need an intake manifold. Lynx auto make an intake manifold for Weber dcoe. Or check the thread on efi conversion The Holley sniper might be a quick win

Hey Banjo, The dizzy i bought was https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electronic-Distributor-Fit-3K-4K-5K-TownAce-KR27-KR41-Starlet-KP61-KP62/282639034758?hash=item41ce996986:g:5swAAOSwwaVeZ1y- its cheap enough that its worth the cost in the experimentation and seeing if we can get the little 3k working on efi. ill buy the sr20 sensor and wheel, measure it all before i bring out the hacksaw and see how it goes. i was just wondering if there was a more 'off the shelf' solution, like a small adapter for the existing dizzy however everything looks like custom work. even if the housing is too small i can possibly remove the bulk of body of the distributor and see if i can machine up a new body that just bolts on. as long as the shaft and gears are in tact this is feasible... ill know more once it arrives When i was looking at your fuel pump conversion i was thinking that the magnet attached to the diaphram would act like the teeth on the wheel, however because of the way the pump works you couldnt replicate the missing tooth and so the fuel pump would always trigger, lets say 4 times per revolution of the crank with no missing beat per se. However i had a little play with some software and it looks like most sensors can handle both rising and falling voltages as the trigger. so a hall effect sensor on the dizzy can detect the slot in the top of the shaft for the points cap to go into. This would work as the crank position(sometimes called the cam sync) sensor to handle the tdc position and i know haltech 550 can handle both sensors going into it, or you can use the single sensor with the missing tooth. but all in all it should be a fun little project, its just taking a while as I'm just starting on this car and so pulling some of the steering and cleaning that whilst thinking about how to make her a daily driver.

Hey Taz, thats awesome, and certainly great news that its reliable. I assume you fitted it to the bigger bosch diff housing? what ecu were you running? however i might see if i can grab the parts and hack up a new dizzy i bought off ebay and make it fit as yours looks like a nice solution. I was very intrigued how banjos water pump conversion was working out as well as that sounds like it has legs but you would still need the crank position sensor so the ecu know when it hits tdc. you can always a stripped down dizzy for the crank position and have the water pump as the crank angle.

Hey banjo, That's awesome information and thanks for the help. I was also looking at something like this from yoshifab https://yoshifab.com/store/billet-redblock-dsm-cas-adapter.html It's a small/short Mitsubishi cas on top and so in theory they can adjust the adapter to suit any engine, I've emailed asking if it can be adapted for the mighty 3k engine and I'll let you know what they say Otherwise I was looking at the throttle body system however with the new intake manifold, injectors and ecu it's an expensive operation. It makes the Holley actually seem cheap in comparison, and it like Holley make an small bore application now too

What a great video series! its strangely addictive viewing. Strangely reminds me of the early days of MCM where they were working in martys mums driveway. However I was actually doing some research on EFI for my ke26 wagon and I originally saw the avenger series which looked more suited to the older corollas, its a little smaller and the kit comes with the fuel pumps and most oft he required parts but had a separate ecu to control it all so you can switch to a haltech or something later if you wanted a nice upgrade path for future mods: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/avenger_efi/avenger_2bbl_tbi_kits/parts/550-200 i was looking for ways to have a proper cam angle sensor and there are some nice parts out there, however most of them don't fit. Once we are out of lockdown I will continue the machining course and see if i can replicate this (in a smaller package) cutting the number of teeth down to 12 or even 16 means it can fit in a smaller package and still meet the hal pickup requirements: https://www.stinger-performance.com/store/cas-cam-angle-sensor-conversion-tfi its tough finding something small that can adapt the ke2x dizzy to be used in an efi system

@parrot If you wanted a 5.6" you can check out https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/452921274

Thanks mate, I found it. Pricey but since I have a u-code diff then this might be an option

Hey parrot, Thanks, where did you see that posted? I looked in the buy and sell but I couldn't see it. There's one on auctions.yahoo.co.jp but it looks fairly abused. Cheers

Hey guys, I'm just going down this is now, so I'm just following up and seeing if anyone still remembers, is it the kp61 starlet lsd that will fit into the jap ke housing? And if there is anyone still making these or where we can buy them?