wenisman

hey k3twent, welcome you can generally buy the inserts, check rockauto.com. you can also buy the inserts from monroe (the gt gas series from memory works), kyb also do direct factory replacements something like this search will help, obviously search for the year and style of your car as this search is for my car: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1974,corolla,1.2l+l4,1367614,suspension,strut,7584

Hey Banjo, whilst trolling the interwebs i found that you can get smaller pickups like these, its just the sensor without the bottom plate https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Brand-New-J520-Ignition-Control-Crank_60702769841.html?spm=a2700.8267363.selected.1.2ce43e5f4meR3c i am not sure what the minimum disc size that is required but I'm asking the guy selling them to see what we can get away with. this might be enough to fit inside a denso style with a 50mm disc or maybe even 40-45mm just would need larger holes cut in it? although i think this is an optical sensor, i am not sure if the sr20 cas is an optical or hall effect?

Hey Banjo, thanks for the update, that is a huge difference in the sizes and the cas looks like it needs the bosch dizzy to fit. However if the dizzy i bought was too small i was going to hack it off at the red line, and in the tafe class i would use the lathe to turn out a new body large enough that i can bolt on to the base of the dizzy left after i cut it off. hopefully its just tapping the holes in the base and using some screws that can go through the cas sensor, through the new body and into the base of the dizzy. so once tafe opens again I will continue the machining course, or until i can get a lathe at home and then try turning this out myself. however I work in IT so the electronics and wiring is the easy bit for me, the mechanical and machining is the learning. The only question i would have is the base is steel and i would most likely turn out am aluminium part so i am a little concerned of galvanic corrosion so i might put a brass plate in there to stop that.

There are a number of places where you can buy a full throttle body kit. Efihardware comes to mind, but it won't be cheap however you will get more reliability over carbs for example. However you will need an ecu, cam sensor, fuel pumps, filter and surge tank to make it work if you're replacing the carb. Twin Weber's are an option, but you will still need an intake manifold. Lynx auto make an intake manifold for Weber dcoe. Or check the thread on efi conversion The Holley sniper might be a quick win

Hey Banjo, The dizzy i bought was https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electronic-Distributor-Fit-3K-4K-5K-TownAce-KR27-KR41-Starlet-KP61-KP62/282639034758?hash=item41ce996986:g:5swAAOSwwaVeZ1y- its cheap enough that its worth the cost in the experimentation and seeing if we can get the little 3k working on efi. ill buy the sr20 sensor and wheel, measure it all before i bring out the hacksaw and see how it goes. i was just wondering if there was a more 'off the shelf' solution, like a small adapter for the existing dizzy however everything looks like custom work. even if the housing is too small i can possibly remove the bulk of body of the distributor and see if i can machine up a new body that just bolts on. as long as the shaft and gears are in tact this is feasible... ill know more once it arrives When i was looking at your fuel pump conversion i was thinking that the magnet attached to the diaphram would act like the teeth on the wheel, however because of the way the pump works you couldnt replicate the missing tooth and so the fuel pump would always trigger, lets say 4 times per revolution of the crank with no missing beat per se. However i had a little play with some software and it looks like most sensors can handle both rising and falling voltages as the trigger. so a hall effect sensor on the dizzy can detect the slot in the top of the shaft for the points cap to go into. This would work as the crank position(sometimes called the cam sync) sensor to handle the tdc position and i know haltech 550 can handle both sensors going into it, or you can use the single sensor with the missing tooth. but all in all it should be a fun little project, its just taking a while as I'm just starting on this car and so pulling some of the steering and cleaning that whilst thinking about how to make her a daily driver.

Hey Taz, thats awesome, and certainly great news that its reliable. I assume you fitted it to the bigger bosch diff housing? what ecu were you running? however i might see if i can grab the parts and hack up a new dizzy i bought off ebay and make it fit as yours looks like a nice solution. I was very intrigued how banjos water pump conversion was working out as well as that sounds like it has legs but you would still need the crank position sensor so the ecu know when it hits tdc. you can always a stripped down dizzy for the crank position and have the water pump as the crank angle.

Hey banjo, That's awesome information and thanks for the help. I was also looking at something like this from yoshifab https://yoshifab.com/store/billet-redblock-dsm-cas-adapter.html It's a small/short Mitsubishi cas on top and so in theory they can adjust the adapter to suit any engine, I've emailed asking if it can be adapted for the mighty 3k engine and I'll let you know what they say Otherwise I was looking at the throttle body system however with the new intake manifold, injectors and ecu it's an expensive operation. It makes the Holley actually seem cheap in comparison, and it like Holley make an small bore application now too

I am also looking for these seals, if anyone has found some or knows where to grab some id be very interested thanks!

What a great video series! its strangely addictive viewing. Strangely reminds me of the early days of MCM where they were working in martys mums driveway. However I was actually doing some research on EFI for my ke26 wagon and I originally saw the avenger series which looked more suited to the older corollas, its a little smaller and the kit comes with the fuel pumps and most oft he required parts but had a separate ecu to control it all so you can switch to a haltech or something later if you wanted a nice upgrade path for future mods: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/avenger_efi/avenger_2bbl_tbi_kits/parts/550-200 i was looking for ways to have a proper cam angle sensor and there are some nice parts out there, however most of them don't fit. Once we are out of lockdown I will continue the machining course and see if i can replicate this (in a smaller package) cutting the number of teeth down to 12 or even 16 means it can fit in a smaller package and still meet the hal pickup requirements: https://www.stinger-performance.com/store/cas-cam-angle-sensor-conversion-tfi its tough finding something small that can adapt the ke2x dizzy to be used in an efi system

@parrot If you wanted a 5.6" you can check out https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/452921274

Thanks mate, I found it. Pricey but since I have a u-code diff then this might be an option

Hey parrot, Thanks, where did you see that posted? I looked in the buy and sell but I couldn't see it. There's one on auctions.yahoo.co.jp but it looks fairly abused. Cheers

Hey guys, I'm just going down this is now, so I'm just following up and seeing if anyone still remembers, is it the kp61 starlet lsd that will fit into the jap ke housing? And if there is anyone still making these or where we can buy them?

Hey guys, I'm just going down this is now, so I'm just following up and seeing if anyone still remembers, is it the kp61 starlet lsd that will fit into the jap ke housing? And if there is anyone still making these or where we can buy them?

I was wondering if anyone has a rear drum backing plate for an ke25 or preferably an ke26? Happy to purchase at the right price or if I can get the measurements for the mounting holes and axle hole diameter that would be fantastic.

I'm just starting in restoring an ke26, just wondering how Jack is going with this ride

Have you put in some roll center adjusters? Sounds like bump steer and excess camber caused by lowering the car. Try the techno toy tuning ones or I've seen them on Manon racing website too

Hey guys, Been a long time lurker here and I'm enjoying the threads. I've started restoring an old ke26 and I want to upgrade the rear brakes from drums to discs. There are a number of wilwood kits but I was wondering if anyone has the specs if the rear axle housing flange and what the offset of the axle flange is? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

What a fantastic find! That car is a real beauty, actually would be a shame to change it. But good luck with the process and ill be keen to see how it turns out

Hey imdan, I have a ke26 wagon, 5 door if you're still looking. I'm in Sydney so it will need to be transported. Private message if youre interested Cheers