Beejae82

pics?

Fixed, he says the rims are being sold seperately, which makes the asking price even more rediculous. Has $7500 on it now

Yeah mate, unfortunately its 1 piece, it annoyed me when I wanted to remove the barrel before I scrapped my sedan.

Happy to help out mate, although I won't be much help for a while now, being a busy little UNI kid

Looking good Kim, will look sweet with the coilovers and a nice set of 15s or 16s. Good luck with it. Get some interior pics and I'll see what I have to make it look pretty.

There's a fair bit involved, half the steering assembly has to be removed, the barrel also wraps around the steering column, there's one big part that has to be removed, and there's one screw holding the switch into the rear of the barrel

I fail to see where I was incorrect, the wheel studs/nuts sole purpose is to keep the wheel on the car, its the centre bore that keeps it in place, that where all the weight is meant to placed. If you don't have centre bores the wheels will move around regardless of how much they are done up and they won't align perfectly to begin with. If the wheel sits slightly towards 1 wheel stud, that means its further away from the opposite stud therefore when the one it is closest to Is nearest to the ground it won't be at the same level as the other 3 wheels, each wheel will have it own high and low point, they won't be equal and therefore the car will be bobbing up and down at different times at each corner or the car and when you are doing speeds in excess of 80km/h that will make a difference.

A family friend just came in to get a price on wheels and tyres for his brumbie, he used to have 17x8 commodore mags, but now he's got adaptors to put 15x7 sunraysia wheels with 30x9.5x15. I don't know what subaru were thinking with the 4x140

Lol I saw the thread title and I was like oh ohhh, does he know the PCD difference.

The stick-ons depend on how good you clean the wheels and press them onto the wheel. I don't think anyone made mention of centre bore rings... for those who don't know, they sit over the disc/drum centre hub and fill the gap between the hub and wheel centre hole. If its nice and tight you get no wobbles.

Looking good Des (the Seca btw) for some reason this one looks good, I've never really liked the shape, but there's something about this one. Anyway, Is the DIN pocket ok? Were you planning on a new head deck or S/H? I have an old Sony works fine, pulled it out of my SX, its from the non-attachable face era but works fine, and I really need to clear out my crap before UNI, JVC wiring harness's work with it, not sure of other brands. Cover postage and you can take it. Unless you plan on a newbie unit

Nice reply Hiro, simply and to the point, I gaurantee that those 2-3% would actually bring the actual speed at 100km/h to 100, because most cars are only doing around 95 at 100.

Its a pity that the secas look so gay otherwise I would have looked for one, I'd prefer a mix of the both but starting with an SX. SX have more electric and luxury features. SX is the top line in my opinion

Haha that's gold, I was waiting for someone to say something about it! Just the old *we thought we had killed it, but who were we fooling it can't be killed* 4afe 5 speed. I once wanted it but found my SX. Btw way people, I'm too lazy to start a thread yet but this bitch is for sale $6500, ill start a 4sale thread when I have the time, for now search twincam.org for the thread. (Am I allowed to say this?) Ohh and I fitted the SX wing up the other day, new clutch master rebuild kit, new clutch slave, new fluid and air filter. 15s are back on for now.

Ahoy Savvy, i like your info, I'll keep that in mind although to fix the problem i just attacked the strut bottoms with a hammer to put a squarer edge in them and stop the tyres from scrapping.