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Posts posted by Clapped out
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yes,
cheers!
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The only reason why I suggested the oil, from past experience rallying the Christ out of the little k motors with cheap oil it couldn't hold pressure at idle even with a freshly rebuilt motor, when you look into different brand oils with their technical charts, a lot of conventional oils have a particular temperature threshold when hot before the physical integrity of the oil starts to fail, more specific/quality brands have a higher temperature threshold thus hold up far better/ don't thin out as much,
cheers!
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Be good to watch the progress on this one!
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If its not a faulty sender, my money is on the oil! Thinning out too much when hot,
cheers!
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Car is almost completely stripped, plenty of good parts available, all hanging panels are pretty stuffed,
cheers!
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Yeah true, I've noticed in the past, presumably the engine was in good running order before stored, when I've used a motor that has been sitting a while with poor compression, when being used again, rust deposits from valve seats and any gunk contained in the piston ring grooves (causing the rings not to expand) eventually blow their way out which certainly give better results down the track,
cheers!
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No need to pull the motor down with those results, the more you drive it the better it will become!
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Any update on this bad boy? is it rego'd?
cheers!
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Congrates on purchasing a house!! Best part is now, you have somewhere stable to set yourself up!!!!!!
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3 hours ago, ke70dave said:
I'm tempted to buy some new shock absorbers and keep the oem springs
I know the feeling, the older you get the more appreciated comfort becomes, low and cool out the door! ha ha!
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Wrecking a ke38 Toyota corolla wagon, most parts available, if it's not on the list, don't hesitate to contact me!
Here are some of the parts available,
As follows,
4 speed gearbox $100
Good condition fuel tank $100
Complete rear diff assembly $200
Rear tailgate glass $100
Door glass $40 each
Door cards $40 each
Cargo area side interior panels $30 per side
Door lock mechanisms $20 each (excluding barrels)
Window winder assembly $30 each
Bumper bars $40 each
Complete dash $200
Indicator assembly $70
Wiper motor$70
If it's not on the list, don't hesitate to ask.
Motor is not for sale as it requires major repairs!
Items are pick up only from the caboolture area!
Prefer contact via txt on 0423 649 857.Here is a youtube vid I took just to show what the car looks like, currently the car is in driveable condition and everything mechanical is in working condition.
PLEASE NO TIME WASTERS! ONLY INQUIRE IF YOUR GENERALLY INTERESTED! -
Maybe interested if work allows.............
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If your handy, just make one, simple and straight forward!
cheers!
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Definatly not a flat spot in the carby? Wouldn't be a sticky advance/retard plate in the dizzy?
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Originally what car was the borg warner from? Same model rolla?
cheers!
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I know this is a long shot, can you try and source a dish piston head to compensate??? Or mill the shite out of the head you have to get back to where the compression ratio should be?
cheers!
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I wouldn't worry about the alloy block and having to re sleave it, been around for the last 50+ years or more, wasn't an issue with my rover engine,
cheers!
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that's easy, IMO id just keep the dizzy advanced, kick down for the gearbox, remove everything else, and just keep the fuel tank breather to the charcoal canister,
cheers!
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so the secret places ive found vacuum leaks are inside the carby!! which take air from within the normal airflow so you can't test for them.
1. hot idle compensator rubber valve under the little plate with 3 screws on the side of the carb (stuck open or simply leaking)
2. 2ND barrel butterfly valve
3. Power valve piston air bleed port due to worn power piston or walls
4. gasket between the bottom plate and main carby body leaking into the manifold area.
5. PCV valve itself, it may shake and appear corret based on the standard tetsing procedures, but i managed to only solve my biggest idling issue by creating a plastic seat inside my dissmantle-able PCV valve, which gives a near perfect seal under high vacuum idle conditions. The standard PCV valve does not. This is especially useful (required) if running a 3K carb on a bored out 3k block, or a 4K block.
And if you're really unlucky you will have what i had, where the intake valve guides and seals have been destroyed at the same time from use of a synthetic oil in this ʞ©$ɟing engine. This will be evident pretty soon with blue smoke out the exhaust. HOW IS THIS POSSIBLE YOU ASK?
Synthetic oil does 2 bad things for this engine,
1. looses pressure to the top of the engine dramatically, and
2. warps the valve stem seals.
those two things cause 2 severe issues,
1. no oil pressure at top end means hot as top end and also a lateral force applied to the valves by the rocker arms, du e to shit lubrication, which causes valve shafts to expand and damage the guides
the ability for synthetic oil to move more freely ( do not tell me it doesn't you are wrong) for a given viscosity compared to mineral oil, makes it loose pressure in the journals of stock engines. These engines have relatively loose bearing journals from factory.
2. synthetic oil will warp valve stem seals if they are allowed to be expanded lateraly from the above issue
Agreed!
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What car is it in? if its in a ke30, brake booster could have developed a crack or have a look at your PC valve,
cheers!
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For what it is, it looks easily restorable,
cheers!
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Just remember going from auto to manual in a ke55 you need to make a new/custom/modified gearbox crossmember,
cheers!
4k change pistons to flat
in KExx Corolla Discussion
Posted
It means that your cylinder head has less of a combustion chamber (to suit dished pistons) as opposed to the run of the mill flat top piston heads. You can change over to flat top pistons, you just need to find the relevant cylinder head to match,
cheers!