yakkmeister

Yeah, all this is pretty much run-of-the-mill stuff. Good to know there isn't really too much to worry about with this job :) I have done a lot of timing stuff on Opel cars (via a Holden Dealership) and a bunch of diesel motors at Nissan... Thanks to all who replied :P Sucks they chose shims over the adjustable type ... just cos I can't do anything about it at home ... oh well! Oh - I realise now that I didn't get gasket goo!! I did get permatex/locktite #4 though!

I think the issue could have something to do with the idle air control valve. Here's my logic: The later EFI systems use the regular injectors to richen the mixture, they don't use CSI's anymore. I think the ECU will still read the lack of temp sensor input as being cold - that way the mixture won't lean out and burn holes in the pistons. If it is reading the temp sensor (it knows the car is cold) it's going to be pumping extra fuel in anyway. So, in my estimation, the fuel ecu is trying to provide a rich mixture for starting but the other half of the equation is out-of-kilter - that's the air - hence idle air control. RollaBoy suggested the throttle body be cleaned - this is where I'd start. Make sure the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve is removed and thoroughly cleaned (carby cleaner is good). Another point to make is that you need to be sure that if there are any small holes (like vacuum ports) present, you clean them really good and test them to make sure air can flow through them. Hope that helps ...

Be careful with your trolley jack positioning - if you jack on the wrong bit, you risk bending stuff! I like to find the beefiest part of the subframe - something that looks load-bearing and has plenty of welds. Can't say I've ever had a corolla on stands ... I use a hoist :D Have you considered using ramps and chocks? I know my dad used them all the time. You do have to be on flat ground - with any kind of lifting or jacking device.

Indeed! The main idea here was to ascertain the possibility of running a 4AFE head on a 4AFE block - which seems to be the case. I think using 4AGE heads would be a tad silly regardless though... don't they run a chain drive on those? (be stuffed if I can remember ...)

Hi All! I am a 4th year apprentice so I don't need the baby steps but ... I have a 1991 AE92 to fix for a mate on the weekend and I thought I'd pick your collective brains as to some repair items for which I have no reference. I searched and could not find the answer on here either. Ok - I am doing a timing belt and water pump, thus I will be replacing the cam and crank seals. I would like to hear any tips or tricks you people have experienced with this job. The biggie! What kind of adjustment is available on the valves on this motor? What are the clearances? Cheers all!

Wow - so pretty much any 4A head will work. Sweet :jamie:

Since there is a good chance I can, down the line, acquire a 4A-FE powered AE92 for parts... I was wondering if the 4A-FE head (thus allowing injection) bolt onto a 4A-FC block? Has anyone done this and, if so, how did it go? I also have no idea about compression ratios or interference/non-interference status on these engines ... that could be problem... Anyway - let me know if anyone has done this or thinks it's possible. My theory is that it's a sound and good idea :)

lol - ok so I just noticed something funny! There is *no* room in this engine bay to run sidedraught carbys! I guess the focus should shift to downdraught ... I was just thinking that the stock carby x2 could be a decent setup with a smaller jet... but then since it'd have less air flow per carby, perhaps re-jetting isn't needed.

Hello all! I have recently become the legal guardian of a 1990 model AE-91 running a stock 4A-FC and 5spd. I remembered back when I had a KE-55, I was planning on sticking a 2T-G in there with a pair of Mikuni-Solex carbys found at a mate's workshop. Word it they used to belong to a Tercel. They were an early to mid 80's model. I have since lost the '55 and I am unsure as to the availability of the original pair of carbies ... However, My questions to you all are thus: What Tercel ran twin Sidedraughts? Is there a twin, sidedraught or otherwise, setup that is easy to transplant to the 4A-FC? I can do all my own work but I don't like to fabricate; thus I would like to explore possible solutions that involve as little cutting as possible and as much 'just bolts on' goodness as possible :y: Cheers -Yakk

Yeah - great advice in those threads! Could be about time someone wrote a guide about it all ... I imagine that would be a pretty hefty article!

I agree! In my opinion, Penrite oil is the best on the market. Remember this is just my opinion! lol As far as oil goes, I think (for a streeter) the startup viscosity is not as important as it's thermal stability. Having said this, I also think you should use the least viscous oil you can reliably run. If the engine does not burn off the thinner oil or make nasty knocks (meaning it's too thin!) you are safe to use it. Being that the oil is /60 (ie, 10/60 or 15/60) it has a good thermal stability. Now the number after the / does not actually mean "thermal stability" it is a good indicator. A rule of thumb I use when I decide what to run is that I look for the smallest 'W' with the biggest '/'. In this instance, I'd take the 10W/60 over the 15W/60 as both share the /60 but the 10W/60 is less viscous when cold meaning it gets flowing quicker - protecting the engine sooner. If the choices were a 15W/50 and a 10W/30, you'd do better with the added protection of the 15W/50. Catch my drift?

Thanks for the info! Sometimes searching doesn't reveal a whole lot... I don't really know why that is ...? Wondering if the RA40 struts go in easy? If so, some slotted rotors should help out the braking force, right? (well, less fade anyway...) I'd like it if anything pertaining to this type of conversion could be pointed out here so I can have a more central point of reference. I will also post new stuff I find out here. Again, thanks for the good information :sob:

I think that's probably a good idea. I have been given a lot of very good information in the above replies. My only concern is that the guide I produce will not be sufficient for others. Call it false modesty or whatever... Well, I guess I'd better keep hoarding those note I've been taking :dance:

Hello everyone. I am currently researching the best (simplest, least fabrications) method for inserting a 4AGE (either 16v or 20v) into a ke-30. I have discovered a distinct lack of a definitive guide on the subject. There would appear to be a million ways of doing the same thing with none being entirely compatible with each other. Since it seems to me that the engine bay and cross-member is shared up to at least the KE-55, a guide could be compiled to suit all vehicles from the KE-30 up to and including the KE-55. Since this is such a common swap, it makes sense that the people with the most experience doing it would have a very good idea of the best way to achieve the desired result with the minimum of fuss and expense. Now, I have heard rumor that there is a cross-member that bolts into the target vehicle's chassis and accepts an A engine block... I could be wrong? Other considerations would be; Possible donor cars for engines and what variant of 4A you'll find in it. Donor cars for brakes and suspension parts - eg, RA-40 brakes and front struts. Basic ideas on placement of fuel pumps, modifications to fuel lines or what-have-you. I think lowest cost plus ease of transition should be paramount - wherever possible, any mods should be of the bolt-on variety over cutting and welding. The main focus should be on getting the engine and gearbox in place and at a point where the engine should run, given all is good with the engine itself. It's just an idea, but I know I can't do it myself and I'm loathe to begin buying parts when they may prove to be a waste of money because I don't need them or they just don't fit.

This kind of thing is becoming more and more common in automotive applications. Especially headbolts - most headbolts I have ever worked with (them being of the opel variety) have all been 'torque to yield' variety. It's important to make sure a small amount of lube is used on high pressure applications too; this gives the bolt the ability hold it's maximum yield and prevents friction in the threaded portion from exerting too much run-on torque. Or something like that :dance: So yeah, old cars tend not to need new bolts, unless you stuff them up with poor handling :blush: You'll only be using 25-35nm on them for a clutch plate and about 35-45nm on a fly wheel ...