mooseman426

Awesome. Never heard of them before, wish I had though. Thanks heaps 👍🏼👍🏼

In the process of giving the Monday-Friday ke30 a tidy up and all 6 of the little bolts that hold the chrome strip onto the front of the bonnet have snapped. Anyone know where I can get new ones or a suitable replacement? Cheers

Got the first stage of the Gorilla done, 4 link rear end, shortened Hilux Diff with ford axles and disc brakes, coarse adjustable inverted watts link, adjustable sway bar, in a KE55. The plan with the car is to build a bit of an all rounder, as we don't get enough drag racing, or track racing here to specialise in one or the other. I'm building it so that I can adjust bars/springs change wheels and tyres and have a bit of fun any chance I get. A bit like a track car that I can get to hook up at the strip. Has been 2 years to get this far, but slow progress is still progress! I have a Commodore K-frame sitting on the floor in the shed, and I've heard that they can be put into a KE55 but I can't find any information about it. All the searching I've done has turned up fruitless though, anyone heard of it being done? I would like to use it as it would give me easy access to the commodore aftermarket in terms of brakes, struts, springs etc, and it gives me a rack and pinion steering making a 1uz so much easier to fit.

I like the way the 4 link is located in the above photo. I am also (very slowly) working on a 4 link ke55, but I am building a large clip out of 50x75 and will have no hope of rego or a back seat and I think this would have been a better way to go. Not to worry.. I would not recommend using shorter bars, as the geometry of your setup (pinion angle, axle forward/rear location, roll steer) will change too dramatically as the diff travels up and down when compared to longer bars. I have had a 2 year hiatus on my build due to work commitments, but from memory I think most fabricated parallel 4 link bars are around the 22" mark I think. Doesn't have to be this long but the closer you get the better your setup will be.

I used Holden 202 springs with holden v8 retainers and standard 4K collets. Had to round the end of the rockers slightly to clear them into the retainers, no other machining. Works a treat with 0.474" lift and 8000rpm.

Good luck Phil. It will be an awesome machine

Had a look through the thread, is a leaf sprung 2 link set up. Seems to work well though, 8 seconds and near 180mph are proof of that!! I am still thinking that I want some type of 4 link in mine, the research continues.

Looks like leaf springs are gonna be too hard, or just too much work for no real gain. thinking triangulated crossmember type 4 bar at the moment. Want to keep back seats in it if at all possible. It's definitely not a straightforward job, but I'm enjoying it though. Would love to get a look under the rear of OKE020 or WHOSUP cars

Built my 4k just before christmas. Put in a Tighe 150A cam ($160 I think), Holden 6 cyl red motor valve springs ($20 from the wreckers), took 60 thou off the head ($60), cleaned up valve seats with grinding paste ($7). Get yourself a dremel and match the inlet and exhaust ports to the manifolds, and carefully clean up the bowls (just do the ends of the valve guides if you're unsure what the bowls need). I used Holden V8 valve spring retainers, this gave me enough spring length to stop them binding up. This required me to round the contact face of the rockers slightly, just a bit on the corners. Throw in a VRS set ($50) and away she went. May need to add a bit for tuning, it will definitely need one. I already had a 32/36 weber, 5k ignition and extractors, so you may need to add a little for these too if desired, otherwise go for a smaller cam. I'm happy with how mine has turned out, just needs to tuned a little better still and needs 100 thou taken off the rocker posts. Has flashed up to 9000rpm with no problems, and gets taken to 7700rpm during khanacross. Hope this helps

Love the idea. Matter of fact I have one in the build at the moment. I'll post some in the build pics soon. I'm gonna keep the 4k in it for now though, see how long I can get away with 15x10's on the rear with 295's. I'm fairly confident :hmm: Still haven't sorted exactly how it's gonna fit, springs will almost certainly need to be moved

To get the best out of a big cam you will need to match the rest of the engine to it. You need to remember that when toyota built your 4k they matched a small cam with small ports, valves, carb, compression, ignition and exhaust. Without changing these things to suit, your motor will be off the cam at low rpms, and when it does finally cut in, it wont be able to breathe properly and wont make power. But, having said that, I say go for the biggest cam you can get your hands on! Get all the best advice you can, and then go one size bigger than the biggest they recommend. Makes for one really angry motor. And and an angry sounding motor that struggles to idle with a massive cam will always sound cool to me!! Do it and post a sound file or something. I wanna hear it

They're at it again!!!! Loving the names though. Also can't believe my luck that I've found a new 4K camshaft for only $170US!! Yeah, you're all jealous now hey As before, ridiculous price, dodgy english, Western Union transfer, gmail address. And a name you just know you can trust, would Lutheran Michael really scam people? I have the 4k camshaft in a new condition and i am asking a $170usd this charge includes postage.i will be shipping via FedEx courier service on an 3 working day delivery.i will also be receiving payment via western union. what is your complete shipping address? regards Lutheran Micheal 125 Gloucester Road, London, SW7, England +447024020824 [email protected]

Did you need to machine the spring seats to use the 202's?

I'm glad that we've got people talking about this. Hopefully we wont hear from them again for a while. They'll probably be back with another name though. Maybe this time he will call himself Pleasant Mike. Stay vigilant people! Our money is far better spent getting 4K's to make 250bhp.

The real scammers

There is a lot of good information in here. Would be very useful on the how to build a tough 4K page. Seems like best option for me would be new springs, just need to decide if I want duals or not. Wonder how the bottom end will like 9000rpm? :hmm: Does anybody have another opinion on the high seat pressure using power topic? I fully accept that more pressure will cause more wear on the lobes. But wouldn't any power used to open the valves be returned again when they push against the cam during closing? Not saying I know or have tested this, but the theory seems sound to me. ??

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I am wondering what we've come up with regarding this subject. Is it safe to assume: -Standard springs up to 0.400" - Hydraulic lifter springs preferred? -Holden 202 (red or blue) springs over 0.400" for street or short term big rpms - Any machining required? Can't find anything conclusive about whether to machine or not -SR20 Duals or aftermarket duals for extended big rpm It would be nice to clear this one up once and for all. :jamie: I'm going with a Tighe 150A cam, drag racing only mainly. Thinking of using the 202 option. cheers probably too late to be of benefit, but apparantly rocker ratio is 1.5:1

That is a scary figure, 30 - 40%. Obviously there is nothing anyone can do about it other than try not to get caught into one. Think we need to remember, if is sounds too good to be true, it's too good to be true.

Got an email today asking me if I have bought my camshaft yet. It is an obvious scam and all similar offers received should be ignored (or tell 'em to get f@$ked. Be creative too, they're trying to steal from you!) Tell tale signs are - broken english - A business operator having hotmail or gmail or similar - Contacting from the other side of the world to try to sell something that can be easily gotten here. If they were really in spare parts they'd know that already They will try to get you to send money via Western Union. DON'T DO IT!!!! Here is the email: -- [email protected] Hello Kindly advise if you still need items as requested as I have in stock for sale. Let me know and I'll get back to you. Nice Andrew Andrew spares outlet 23 York W1U 6DP United Kingdom Below information is needed: Shipping Address: Cell: Model: Model Name: Year:

That is it exactly. Thanks heaps. I must not have looked at it properly 1st time around though. I thought it had more k40 k50 stuff. But is handy information!

I've been looking and looking for a bit that somebody wrote in the forum recently about these gearboxes. There was a link to some tech information and a couple of pics. I'm just chasing as much info as i can. Does anybody know/recall about this. I can't find it anywhere, starting to think i'm going mad.

Friggin got it!! Thanks for the help. Now to do the job I opened it up for.... then put it back together.....

I will be away from home for a week, apologies for no replies in that time. Cheers

Thanks for the reply. I have grabbed a couple of pics This is where I am up to, want to get the rest of the shaft out I know it is hard to see in this photo, but this is one of the pins through selector shaft and fork. These are what I need to knock out to progress? It looks like I will need to access one of the pins through this bolt hole. Does this look right? Thanks heaps for the help. I've had fully sequential dog engagement motorbike gearboxes/engines apart heaps of times, and they have never been this hard! Thinking that if I get through this I might put a bit of a how to on the site

I'm in the process of pulling down 4 speed box from ke30. I want to get to all the synchro's. I've got the reverse gear and counter shaft out, as well as input shaft and gears/synchro's up to halfway along mainshaft. Now I'm stuck. ;) Is there a trick to get the rest of the box apart? I'm thinking that I need to get the selector fork out of the way, but I can't see how this is done. Do I need to remove the pins holding them to the selector shaft, and if so how do I do it, and how will they go back in tight? Or is there another way to get the job done? I have also looked at the nut behind the rear bearing, but it is tight as hell, and I want to be sure about whether I need it off before I butcher it. Thanks in advance