ballpencil

Just finished this conversion myself, only short of the actual dyno but i'm running butt-dyno based maps and it's going just well.. My blog entries might keep you occupied for a while.. My link Some notes i'd like to point out: 1. Internally, smallports are basically same as 4A-GZE, only they have higher comp pistons. I swapped my pistons with 4A-GZE ones using smallport rings and they're holding out just fine. 2. No oil drain line is too big. Go as big as you can for this drain line. Your limit is only aesthetics and space. Keep the drain hole on the sump as high as possible without interfering the sump bolts. I'm still having occasional smoke from the turbo and suspecting it's from the drain being too small. 3. Turbo timers are a waste of money. 4. The perfect size intercooler would be around 51mm core size or 680mm in total (inlet to outlet). Since you already got an IC, you'll ignore this i guess. 5. This maybe debatable but for turbo applications, i'd rather spend the cash on better aftermarket computer than higher duration cams. 6. RX7 460cc injectors are direct swap upgrades to smallport's 235cc. Just make sure you get the high impedance. 7. I'll vouch for a cast iron manifold over stainless steel pipes anytime. You'll need the extra strength to support that turbo weight.

Hi, idk if this is the right place to ask but if i am not wrong KE70 vans in Australia use S-series diff so that's why i put my thread here. I am from other country so i can't be sure. I have tried to search but can't get a satisfactory result. I've a Daihatsu Charmant and it has S-series diff. I am planning to swap the whole rear axle with T-series diff from an RT132 Corona as i want to get an LSD for it. 1. Other than the complete rear axle from drum-to-drum, what else should i get to complete the swap? Do i need the 4 links? Panhard rod? Handbrake cable? Propeller shaft? Please state stuff that is really necessary for me to get and not stuff that i can mod from my Charmant. FYI, Charmant S-series axle already has 4links and panhard rod. 2. My Charmant has no rear sway bar and as far as i know, T-series axle has it. Will there be a problem if i don't fit the sway bar? How easy is it to get a sway bar installed? 3. Most importantly, will it be a bolt-in job? If not, what needs to be changed/modded? 4. LSD for Zenki AE86 is the one that fits the T-series i am fitting, am i correct? Here's pic of my rear-end. There's another question there on the pic :) Here's the best info i get pertaining this issue taken from this thread. 1983 is probly either a tt132 or tt141. if it has a 3t then it either has a w50 or 22spline t50. (or 4speed). being an '83 i'd bet its the t50. diff will be a T series which from memory the tt132 is 1415mm wide and the tt141 around 1440mm wide. te71 are around 1400mm wide so the tt132 diff is an option but mounts are wider on the top, spring perches are smaller diameter and wider apart, diff mount bolts are fatter (19mm instead of 17mm head) and panhard rod in different spot. tt132 have same mounts as ra45/ma45 celica if thats any help. tt132 wagon have leaf spring and not hard to convert to ke70 wagon smile.gif Yes that's about swapping T-series from a TE71 to T-series of a Corona.. but that's the best i can find. From it, can you foresee any problem i'll face from this swap? Thanks..

Yeah thanks. Actually i am not too worried about the offset. Spacers, narrow tires or fender rolls would help me get them on the right spot. I am just curious about Globeline itself since i can't find many info on them on Google. A link to some story on them would be great.

I just got myself a set of used Globeline rims, pictured below. I bought it without knowing the offset. I tried googling for details of Globeline but failed to find anything helpful. What i know is that they measure 14x7 inch, 4x114.3 PCD with number 1494 found behind the rims. So, does anyone know their offset value? I am guessing somewhere around +10 :wink: . Additionally, can anyone tell me more about Globeline wheels in general? I only know they are Australian made. I failed to find their website, do they even have one? I am from Indonesia btw, which would explain my ignorance to Globelines.

Hi there. This is my first post. I am about to do the exact same thing. Got some questions i failed to find the answer to. Please trust me i have done searches :P .. Situation: i got a complete 4A-C from the Charmant and a smallport 4A-GE. If need be, i can get the components from the 4A-C. 1. The starter motor is positioned differently. 4A-GE on driver side (RHS) while my bellhousing is for passenger side starter motor. Can i use the sandwich plate and starter motor from the 4A-C? Any mods done to fit it or just a simple swap? 2. I can't find any coilover kits for Charmant. Can i use the one for AE86? Both front and rear? It has been done here but no mentioning if there's any work done to do it or again just a simple bolt on work. I need to know before i buy the kit. I took a shot of the front and rear suspension but please excuse the angle. I couldn't get a good position to take the shot since it was so cramped. Comparing to an AE86 front coilover, it surely look similar. Can anyone confirm this? I am not sure about the rear one.. 3. Since i am not replacing the bellhousing, my clutch slave cylinder would be on the same side with the 4A-GE's exhaust pipes. Will this cause any problem? 4. From what i read, the way to avoid recessing firewall is to use a RWD 4A-GE rear water outlet. Is there any other way than this cause it's very difficult finding that part here in Indonesia? Can i just shut the rear outlet with a plate? I know this has been done in a silvertop 20v but i am not sure can this be done in a smallport. Anyway here's a shot of the outlet. In case you want to know my project details. Comments are welcome! Thanks.