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KaneKE70

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About KaneKE70

  • Birthday 04/16/1986

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  • Location
    Gold Coast
  • Real Name
    Kane

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  1. Hey guys, just wondering if anyone had a rough idea of who to use/how much it would cost to get a pallet with a 4age t50 box and gbox crossmember shipped from Victoria to gold coast qld? Cheers
  2. GJM85, what is this pin you are referring to? I don't remember seeing one on the fork assembly when i pulled the box out to check things out. Is there any chance you would have a pic of the pin? Maybe this is my problem....? Coln72, yeah man, i've seen pressure plates bugger up from brand new, however mine looks like it's in tiptop shape man. Cheers guys, this has been a big help so far.
  3. Yes, the throw out bearing is fitted :D Yeah man, I'm thinking the clutch setup is wrong... but would that make the clutch lever go all the way forward, without disengaging the clutch? I was thinking that the pressure plate may be faulty somehow... but it's brand new it's really doing my head in!!
  4. Hey guys, I have a ke55 coupe, 79 i think - I've taken out the old auto/3k, and bought a 5k/k50 from chief on this website. The engine has a new clutch kit bolted to the flywheel. After putting the gearbox and engine into my car i found that the clutch fork was very loose. I thought it may have been normal as there was no return spring on the clutch lever and no cable at that point. After hooking up the clutch cable and return spring i still had the same problem, and the pedal was going straight to the floor without any decent resistance. So i pulled the gearbox back out, and saw that the clutch fork was very loose, and that the spring had come off that holds it on to the actual gearbox itself. So i crimped the spring over the little ball/knob type thing that it gets held on to, and thought this would fix my problem. After putting the gearbox back in i found that the pedal was still going straight to the floor. I even took the clutch cable off, to see if i could manually disengage the clutch by hand, but the clutch lever was still really easy to pull forward, all the way to the front of it's travel. I know this has nothing to do with the clutch cable adjustment, as i have spent alot of time trying to fluff around with that. I'm thinking i may have matching problems with my gearbox/flywheel/clutch kit. Can anyone help me out here? I'm thinking i may need to get a 4k flywheel and clutch kit? The gearbox input shaft appears to be sliding into the clutch plate perfectly, the bellhousing goes all the way in flush with the engine and bolts up fine - and when the car is put in gear, and is tried to move forward or back wards it does not move. This is such a pain in the ass and it's doing my head in haha! Cheers guys, Any help would be greatly appreciated - it feels like my project had grounded to a halt because of this problem. Thanks, Kane
  5. Hey man, lol yes i have a clutch kit andd manual flywheel. i'll be back into it on saturday, hopefully with luck, i will just have to adjust the cable (which i thought i fully tried to... the cable seems to be pulling the clutch level allll the way forward) and i won't have to pull the whole f'ing gearbox out again.
  6. Hey man, how did you go? I am having exactly the same problem with my ke55 coupe. I purchased a 5k/5spd to replace my 4k/auto, and the clutch cable doesn't seem to want to engage the clutch, even though the gearbox mounts straight up to the engine all sweet. It's giving me the shits, as i have already pulled the box out (which was a pain in the ass without a jack or a hoist) and found that the clutch fork had come off the spring mounting clip it was supposed to be attached to. So i clipped it back on, bent the clip so it wouldnt come off again, and guess what... still have clutch going all the way to the floor.
  7. I have a borgy diff yea, i was thinking that i could just change the uni joints over from the auto tailshaft to the manual..
  8. Hey guys, got the gearbox crossmembers all lined up sweet and welded up..... except i just tried to put the tailshaft in and the diff bolt holes don't line up. Is there anything that i can do to fix this problem? I still have the auto tailshaft.. hoping that i don't have to buy a manual diff - I would like to keep the diff i'm using if possible. Cheers Kane
  9. Got the paint sorted on the weekend, also the 5k and 5spd are in, shifter lined up perfectly. Just welding the 2 g.box x-members together at work today.. Pics soon!
  10. Awesome job man, just read this whole topic! Keep up the hard work man, can't wait to see the final result
  11. Also, does anyone have pics of what the clutch cable setup looks like one the box (how it attaches) and on the pedal box. It seems i'm missing some parts, like a bracket to hold the cable near the clutch lever?
  12. Update, got the pedal box in on saturday and began scotching the engine bay for paint. Wish I could have a week solid on this thing to get it sorted!
  13. Wow, thats geuing up there man. Ive never tried over 115kg on the flat bench, but i'd imagine i'd be up at around 125kg-130kg with a spotter for 1-2reps. I weigh 81kg.
  14. and........... engine+auto out !! Looking forward to cleaning up the engine bay, and getting down a fresh coat of CT black. Will be updating soon!
  15. hey guys, this seems a little meat-headish but just keen to see what everybody else is doing in the gym here. At the moment i'm doing 6 reps of 110, and maximum ive done of 1 rep is 115. Cheers, Kane (meathead) :P
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