Old-Skool-Rolla Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 hey guys. got bored yesterday so stripped my KE55 ready to have the rust cut out and painted. pulled the motor out (except mounts so its still sitting in there rather than in my shed) i searched but after 4 pages of respnes like 'why don't you search' it kinda gets hypocritcal. now i got thinking about a motor into it. don't want 4AGE cos i want power :dance: so decided on a 'budget' 7AGE build. i got 20V quads sitting here, and a bigport 4AGE motor aswell.. (although i might track down a smallport head) i know all the things for a FWD 7AGE build, but no for a RWD 7A build. FWD it bolts straight in, but RWD? would it sit higher due to the extra deck height of the block, or would it just extend the sump past the x-member.? I'm gunna obviously need to make mount, but having read about the 4AGE into KE55, i read that cortina/excort mounts bolt straight up. but noone could eloborate all i read was 'hey, use corty/escort mounts' but noone could confirm if they do or not. again, will this make the engine sit a bit high or what? anone used them before? Gbox mounts, can i make my engine mounts so that the stock 4 speed 4K KE55 box cross member will work with a T50 box? or is that not possible? or can i use the x-member off a T50 AE71 and bolt it up then make hte engine mounts to suit? speakign of mounts, having not dumym fit a 4A before, are the mounts the right width apart on the member itself, they just need to be made smaller or do they require cutting off the x-member and rewelding on aswell? for the master cyl thing. if i was to modify the KE pedal box, how exactly do i go about it. or is it easier just to get a AE71 hydro clutch pedal and mast. cyl. and bolt it all up. is it possible to retain the cable clutch system? this would be much easier. i assume hte T50 box will literally bolt straight onto the 7A block as it does a 4a? is the clutch for on the righ tside if i get it out of a AE71? and i just use hte RWD 4A backign plate yeah? 7A uses a 6 bolt crank end for the flywheel, where as 4AGE uses 8. but i read 4AC RWD uses 6 bolt aswell? is this ture, and can i then use a 4AC flywhel and clutch on the 7A block, rather than a custom made 7AGE flywheel? tailshaft, can anyone elaborate on the method of making one to suit the stock KE55 diff, and T50 box? can i just use the yoke and splined sliding sleeve off the T50 shaft, and attache it to the stock KE55 shaft, or are they different lengths? i assume they are. fuel tank. needs a lower outlet for the EFI pump to pick up. anyone modifyed this themself and can elaborate on this for me? can i use hte stock pump to feed a surge tank and VL turbo pum from surge tank to motor? and what car can i hijack fuel lines from for EFI? ae82? as for cooling, would the stock KE55 $K radiator be up to it. and would i need to run an aftermarket electric thermo fan? anything else I'm missing? please don't just say search, as i did and everyones answer was SEARCH. lol sorry for long post Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 (edited) I don't know the answer to the model specific questions but I can say that the 7afe block will bolt where a 4a block was but it will be 15mm higher. You can use the 7afe flywheel and clutch or possibly put a 20v clutch on it. BTW a 7A bottom end doesnt incease power much but it helps heaps with torque. Edited April 7, 2008 by Sam_Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old-Skool-Rolla Posted April 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 yeah thanks mate :hmm: a i planned out and started to build a off tap 7AGE for my SX seca, but now I'm sellign it for acivic :dance: so decided to continue it on, into hte KE. anyone else able to help? is the 7A block 15mm higher at the top, or botom (ie more distance above or below the mounts?) and lastly, is the 7A and 4AC RWD flywheels the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 i know you said you 'don't want a 4age coz you want power' but couldn't the money/time you spend turning a 1.6 into a 1.8 be spent on the 1.6 to make good power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old-Skool-Rolla Posted April 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 the cost ofa 1.8 7A block is only a few hondred. (i can get one for around 200 complete.) rods from belfab to suit stock smallport pistons are only 380 a set, these are also much lighter. fit my stock smallport pistons, then get it al lbalanced with a lightweight flywheel, and i have a full bottom end that is quick for less than 1k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 or buy that dudes turbo GZE for $1700 for more power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old-Skool-Rolla Posted April 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 yeah but that is an extra 700 just for hte engine OVER what i wouldbe spending. plus I'm resricted on ym P's, and a turbo of S/C is alot easier to spot in an engine bay, over a nice tidy stock looking engine conversion. i have always been a fan of N/A worked engines (steppign out of 6ltr VE commos and the like :)) plus if you ask me forced induction is the cheats way. they can't be bothered/don't have hte money or are just to plain stupid to build a 'REAL' moto so they use boost for a cheap alternative :lolcry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 (edited) funny attitude. i don't see how its cheating. i definately have the money, aren't stupid and can be bothered to build a real motor and i'm still going to use turbocharging technology to do it. an extra $700 for a lot more power seems like a bargain. Edited April 11, 2008 by Jono Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old-Skool-Rolla Posted April 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2008 lol don't get me wrong, i wasnt putting shit on anyone. its just that i have been brought up around commodores, and now work for holden as a mechanic :) so I'm used to torquey motors :lolcry: turbos are awsum, but i would only use on AFTER building my motor to make awsum powe N/A. might sound stupid to some but hey. its me :P plus ht eextra 700 for more power... again turbo easier to spot than a neat N/A conversion. unless they pull m motor down they wont catch me :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
machg Posted April 12, 2008 Report Share Posted April 12, 2008 (edited) Good onya, when my 4age shat itself, I put a dodgy 7age together for $400.00, thats for everything. Handled a 100km per day commute for months, absoloutely no dramas in the AE82, now its going into a TE71 shell, and I fully expect it will last a good while before shitting itself. The only concession I made in driving is sticking to a 6000 rpm rev limit (standard bottom end). From a mount point of view the 7afe block is all but identical mount wise to a 4age, the only difference being block height. So yes, it will sit 15mm higher in your engine bay, all other things being equal. Edited April 12, 2008 by machg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old-Skool-Rolla Posted April 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2008 w00t thanks brother. and mine will be far from stock... custom rods, smallport pistons, fully balanced, 12.1 compression :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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