Ke10_Bloke Posted May 26, 2008 Report Share Posted May 26, 2008 Hi, i have been looking for a 20v MAP sensor to fit into my bt converted AE92.. I initially never had one in there. Now when i fit it, the car turns off.. Has anyone had this problem before?? Please is there a solution? I'm going to go crazy :lolcry: lol.. Is there some special way of fitting it that i don't know of? Thanks all.. I realise this may have been covered before but i really have no time to search through old threads for days as i need to get the car rego'ed in two daySS!!! HEEEEEELLLLPPPP!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerhead Posted May 26, 2008 Report Share Posted May 26, 2008 Where exactly are you plugging it in? Any pix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted May 26, 2008 Report Share Posted May 26, 2008 Where exactly are you plugging it in? Any pix? Possibly you are plugging it in to somewhere where it gets a poor signal. Is your intake standard, as in factory airbox used? Here is an AE111 manual if it helps: Index.pdf bt1_pp.pdf bt2_ss.pdf bt3_ch.pdf bt5_ig.pdf bt6_lu.pdf bt7_co.pdf bt4_em.pdf bt9_st.pdf bt8_fi.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke10_Bloke Posted May 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 (edited) Possibly you are plugging it in to somewhere where it gets a poor signal. Is your intake standard, as in factory airbox used? Here is an AE111 manual if it helps: I'm plugging it in to the correct spot.. The vacuum feels a little weak though when i put my fingertip on it. Could this be a problem? There is a small air vacuum one-way valve in there. My intake is standard and i am using the factory air box There is also a slightly bigger vacuum hose near the fourth ITB which sucks pretty hard. I find that when i block that off, the idle goes down to a more suitable level. However i am afraid this will cause damage to the engine.. any thoughts? Today, after realising that the car had no fuel in it due to revving it during testing for days (very dumb i know) but the fuel guage was not working correctly so..I connected the map sensor again and it idled up. I blocked off that rear bigger like hose and the revs went down. NOW, my problem seems to be that it takes a flat stick to get the car to get up and go and even then it is pinging!! If you want to take off normally like when you are NOT racing an Rx7, you can't coz it cuts out, sort of like fuel cutting out but it's now filled up. It never stops aaaaargh.. lol. Cheers for your help guys... Heres a photo of the plug and vacuum hose hope it helps: Edited May 27, 2008 by Ke10_Bloke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 I'm plugging it in to the correct spot.. The vacuum feels a little weak though when i put my fingertip on it. Could this be a problem? There is a small air vacuum one-way valve in there. My intake is standard and i am using the factory air box There is also a slightly bigger vacuum hose near the fourth ITB which sucks pretty hard. I find that when i block that off, the idle goes down to a more suitable level. However i am afraid this will cause damage to the engine.. any thoughts? Today, after realising that the car had no fuel in it due to revving it during testing for days (very dumb i know) but the fuel guage was not working correctly so..I connected the map sensor again and it idled up. I blocked off that rear bigger like hose and the revs went down. NOW, my problem seems to be that it takes a flat stick to get the car to get up and go and even then it is pinging!! If you want to take off normally like when you are NOT racing an Rx7, you can't coz it cuts out, sort of like fuel cutting out but it's now filled up. It never stops aaaaargh.. lol. Cheers for your help guys... Heres a photo of the plug and vacuum hose hope it helps: The big hose at the 4th throttle is supposed to go to the Idle control valve. The icv isnt connected electrically on my car, but i still find it runs poorly, surges and dies if i don't have it at least plumbed in place. We probly need to know, are you using a standard ecu? Is it fwd, rwd? What have you deleted, and what have you left on it etc. If you are using a standard ecu you will need to have the idle control valve connected and working for the car to idle properly. You don't need a one way valve in the line to the map sensor either, if thats what you indicated. Sounds like you might need to source either an idle control valve or the big hose which connects it to the vaccum array under the quads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerhead Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 If its plugged in via a valve it won't react to changing vaccum. It'll just max out and probably flood your motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke10_Bloke Posted May 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 The big hose at the 4th throttle is supposed to go to the Idle control valve. The icv isnt connected electrically on my car, but i still find it runs poorly, surges and dies if i don't have it at least plumbed in place. We probly need to know, are you using a standard ecu? Is it fwd, rwd? What have you deleted, and what have you left on it etc. If you are using a standard ecu you will need to have the idle control valve connected and working for the car to idle properly. You don't need a one way valve in the line to the map sensor either, if thats what you indicated. Sounds like you might need to source either an idle control valve or the big hose which connects it to the vaccum array under the quads. My ECU is standard, the car is an AE92 FWD and nothing that i know of has been deleted or cancelled. Where is this idle control you are talking about? Can you provide pics if no trouble? I will first try removing the valve in the vac line to the map sensor and see if it gets better. I'm still suspecting an FPR or Fuel pump may be causing the problems.. What do you guys think?? If so, what fuel setup would be most efficient for a stock 20v? Cheers guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke10_Bloke Posted June 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2008 The map sensor seems to be working fine now, no more backfiring and smoke. I have replaced the fuel pump and filters as well as made sure none of the lines were blocked. There is plenty of fuel coming in and out of the rail. Now i have discovered that WHEN I REMOVE THE TPS PLUG, NO MORE CUTTING OUT AND DEEP NOISE FROM THE TB'S.!! bUT THE CAR IS STILL GUTLESS AND FEELS LIKE IT CAN GO MUCH BETTER.. Any thoughts anyone? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted June 1, 2008 Report Share Posted June 1, 2008 The map sensor seems to be working fine now, no more backfiring and smoke. I have replaced the fuel pump and filters as well as made sure none of the lines were blocked. There is plenty of fuel coming in and out of the rail. Now i have discovered that WHEN I REMOVE THE TPS PLUG, NO MORE CUTTING OUT AND DEEP NOISE FROM THE TB'S.!! bUT THE CAR IS STILL GUTLESS AND FEELS LIKE IT CAN GO MUCH BETTER.. Any thoughts anyone? Thanks It'd be good if you could describe exactly what the config of the car is first for us, and add some descriptive photos, happy to lend any help I can to you. TPS may be faulty or not calibrated well. Also, have you got all the facilities of the efi system connected properly, knock sensor, icv, the lot? If its running pretty smooth and still gutless, it may be running in a trimmed safe mode, which it will default to when a sensor dies or is not present. Perhaps find someone with the same motor and swap sensors one at a time and evaluate the change. Has the manual above been of any use? Id say photos would be handy. Reach under the quads and flash one off, there is vacuum stuff under there which needs attention sometimes, and id like to see whats up with the icv and the knock sensor. If it were a simple vacuum leak or something like that it would be fine under load in most circumstances, but shit at idle. Yeah definitely need pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerhead Posted June 1, 2008 Report Share Posted June 1, 2008 Sounds like you may have found your problem. I've seen similar problems with dead TPS units. Use a multi meter to test if you're getting a smooth reading from the TPS. They're a linear variable resistance unit, if the resistance jumps up and down as you move the throttle, its broken. It should be a nice smooth variance. The map sensor seems to be working fine now, no more backfiring and smoke. I have replaced the fuel pump and filters as well as made sure none of the lines were blocked. There is plenty of fuel coming in and out of the rail. Now i have discovered that WHEN I REMOVE THE TPS PLUG, NO MORE CUTTING OUT AND DEEP NOISE FROM THE TB'S.!! bUT THE CAR IS STILL GUTLESS AND FEELS LIKE IT CAN GO MUCH BETTER.. Any thoughts anyone? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke10_Bloke Posted June 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2008 (edited) I'm pretty sure the efi system is properly connected. I have yet to look at the manual but will now.. I will get some pics happening A.S.A.P. I will also try replacing the TPS and see what happens Thanks. Edited June 2, 2008 by Ke10_Bloke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerhead Posted June 2, 2008 Report Share Posted June 2, 2008 Blacktop ECU's have a crazy agressive knock sensor too. If its unplugged or damaged it'll retard the timing as you try to rev it out. Have you tried a putting a timing light on it as you rev it, is it retarding at the point where it doesn't make power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke10_Bloke Posted June 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2008 Guys i really apreciate all your help, but i can't seem to get it right and no longer have the time.. I'm willing to pay someone to fix it for good. Does anybody know of a good corolla specialist in Melbourne, VIC? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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