redracer Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 (edited) Hey, can anyone tell me how to change the CV boot covers? I recently took my new 92 model seca for a road worthy and the bloke found the boot cover had a hole melted in it from the exhaust. Its the only thing holding me back from transfering the rego over. cheers Edited March 10, 2009 by redracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wides13 Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 don't they have to go on before cv part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYSTIK[RL] Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 melted hole in the cv boot from the exhaust :D well considering the exhaust is not even close to the cv's. the reason i say this is cause the exhaust runs drops down the side of the block, under the sump, then over the cross member and down the centre of the car, then is take a right turn behind the b pillar towards the drivers side of the car :cool: only thing i can think of is that the boot have split and needs to be replaced and repacked with grease Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slapper Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 Hey, can anyone tell me how to change the CV boot covers? If you don't already know how to do it, or know that the answer is "get a gregory's and follow the instructions" then this is a job probably best left to a mechanic :) It is, in point of fact, a prick of a job without the right tools :( The CV joint needs to be removed before a new boot can be installed. CV repair shops will do it in a morning for not too much cash. I've done a couple on older cars (mini) and bloody hated it - cost me $170 odd to have one CV joint replaced including new boot in my pulsar, which I thought was well worth it! A boot without the joint will probably cost you $60 a side or so. If you are dead keen (and, let's face it, I am such a cheap bastard that I'd probably try doing it myself despite what I just said!), grab a gregory's and hop into it. Put aside a day just in case. Pick up generic boots from Sprint or Supercheap or Autopro or MotorTraders or whoever you have in your neck of the woods and a fresh bottle of hand cleaner. If your CV joints are worn (if they're not clicking already, try a quick burst of hard acceleration whilst at full lock to see if they're on their way out) then it'd be a good idea to replace them at the same time. Otherwise, a bit of a clean and repack with the correct grease and you're away. But trust me - if you have any cash at all, CV joints are best left to someone else!! cheers, Slapper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYSTIK[RL] Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 But trust me - if you have any cash at all, CV joints are best left to someone else!!cheers, Slapper i agree with that sentiment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redracer Posted March 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 yeah the exhaust has been totally shifted around but I'm changing that in the not to distant future. there's nothing wrong with the cv's either so i wont need to change them too soon, nut i picked up a new boot cover this mornin and I'm just about to have a go at it myself. cheers and thanks for the advice guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philthy30 Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 yeah the exhaust has been totally shifted around but I'm changing that in the not to distant future. there's nothing wrong with the cv's either so i wont need to change them too soon, nut i picked up a new boot cover this mornin and I'm just about to have a go at it myself. cheers and thanks for the advice guys pretty easy, undo hub nut, undo hub from strut pull driveshaft out, cut shagged boot off, knock cv off slip new boot on and fill it up with grease and knock c.v back on. filthy messy job i personally wear rubber gloves when doing it. i still believe its easier and less messy to go buy a rwd :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roladude Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 I am so surprised that no on e here has mentioned it before. But nine out of ten mechanics use a universal type of cv boot that stretches. There is a tool (like 8 fingers that stick out)that you wrap the boot around and spead them put the boot over the cv joint and release the fingers, then your done. There's appretices at my work that can do this in 20 mins per shaft from removing to replacing. It wont cost much to get done at a cv repairer. They should be able to do all boots in under an hour easy. and most mechanics charge between $50 to $130 an hour plus parts. I hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drc_ke20 Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 also don't forget to put gear oil or transmission fluid back in the unit as a loss of fluid will cause your box or tranny to have a delay in gear changes or noisy bearings in the diff for front wheel drives?but your better off leaving it to the mechanics as its a pain and messy job,otherwise have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redracer Posted March 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 Cheers guys, she's sll done :) . Only took 45 min and wasnt as hard as i thought. Just having all the tools was the hard part. Thanks again for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.