slapper

pretty sure a single cam 1600 replacement (ie. the 4AC) is an inspection job (1600 twin-cam needs to be engineered) - at least, that was the case last time I looked which was probably 6 ish years ago. You'll need to book it in. It's a "roadworthy" inspection so the car will have to be in good shape. 3K/4K can go to 5K with just a phone call to advise the new motor. There's a bulletin specifically related to engine changes in Corollas - can't remember the number though. Not sure if bulletins are available online now .. they might be. cheers, Slapper

check your fronts .... sometimes the AE71's had different front struts - and most (if not all) AE71 wagons have the different struts. These struts have springs that are interchangeable with AE86 struts - not KE70 The defining characteristic is the top loop in the spring. If it's the same size as the rest of the spring, it's KE70 equivalent, if it's smallwer than the rest of the spring, it's the AE86 equivalent. caveat: I've never actually swapped the springs in my AE71 - this is just information I gained along the way :) if you look in the King Springs catalogue, they list (at least they used to) two different part numbers for the front springs in an AE71 depending on year and/or sedan/wagon configuration.

s'far as I know, the tunnels are the same and what you're seeing is the difference between manual and auto ... hey ho the angle grinder :)

As I'm not usually driving a Corolla these days I haven't been on for a looong while ... and spotted this post when I wandered past ... that's my daggy AE71 - handed down to number 1 son now that he has his P's. I sold the KE25 2 1/2 years back when I bought my L300 4WD van - 3 cars and a motorbike was being frowned upon by the leader of the opposition and it was actually just getting hard to find somewhere to park them all! The AE71 went under a tarp in the back yard for the kids to drive when they got their licence - it's not flash, but it's not going to break down straight away either! Had to legalify it before I handed it over though - cut springs and a weber made it fun to drive, but not a good idea for a L/P plater :) Blew the motor in the van over Christmas and, whilst waiting for parts, the rolla has been back on the road - roof rack and all. Unfortunately I have returned to Mawson Lakes and 180 Labs is no longer on my daily list ... so you're unlikely to see it out there again - I had noticed your 55 and wondered whether you were a member ... cheers, Slap

look for air leaks - that's what caused dodgey idle like this on mine. cheers, Slap

not necessarily true. To my knowledge, most AE86 have a smaller diameter top coil. The only KE70/AE71 with this front spring is the wagon. so - check before you buy :jamie: Slap

Actually, I don't think you should ... the fuel system in a KE70 should be sealed, which means your cap shouldn't allow any breathing. You might need to explain how you've rigged your fuel system for your 4AGE conversion ... as I understand it, people often use that breather line for the fuel return from the regulator. However: bear in mind that I've never actually done a carb -> EFI conversion! cheers, Slapper

I already have another bike - XR400M The postie is being sol pretty much to fund parts for the XR ... so that's all I'd really be interested in. I know I will be looking for: 21" front wheel - XR650 2000 on would work 18" back wheel - no idea what fits! bash plate - B&B do one acerbis XR400 tank - model 1601W that's all I can think of for now!any of these could be used as part payment ...... . . There ... I've also pulled my finger out and advertised it in the Trading Post :P cheers, Slap

nope ;) it's been on here since June because I haven't bothered to advertise it anywhere else yet! Every now and again I think: "I really must do something about selling that" and then never get around to it! I really really really really really must pull my finger out and get rid of it ... maybe now I'll actuallydo it! cheers

bump couldn't help Spooner - the postie couldn't quite match his Kawasaki for speed :P Even though I really should be selling this thing, I couldn't help but buy a performance enhancing sheepskin seatcover! So now, not only cuold you be the coolest kid on your block, but you'll be doing it in comfort. ay carumba!!

bummer dude - your profile doesn't include any email info :S drop me an email to blueslapper At yahoo DOT com with your email address and we'll go from there ... I'm in Devon Park - home weekdays after 5:30 or so and home most weekends too. cheers

yep! NO takers when it was pissing down with rain in the middle of winter and I'm just about to advertise again - seemed like a good idea to wait until the worst of this fscking heatwave is over though! I'm going to feel like a bastard when I finally sell it though - the more time elapses from the "new bike purchase" the less immperative it feels that I sell the postie :S Gotta keep reminding myself when I look at the postie that I see new wheels for the XR, not a bog-awesome piece of the Australian dream :o cheers, Slap

thanks youse all ... we'll have a squiz on the weekend. Slap

warning - non-rolla question! and a long shot to boot ;) I'm helping a mate get his Crown back on the road after an extended "sitting in the garden looking nice" session. Damn thing won't start and we suspect the fuel pump isn't kicking in. Do any of you likely lads and/or ladettes know where the fuel pump is in a 1989 Crown Super Select? Neither of us even know whether it's in-tank or what. Following on ... I don't suppose anyone also knows the part num? cheers, Slapper

When I was looking at remoting my battery, I did a little research. You should expect should bursts of 2-300A if I recall correctly. I know I had no luck was looking for a 300 amp fuse and had to settlt for smaller. 150A I think I got (no longer have the car so I can't check!) which seemed to do the job okay. cheers, Slapper

Well ... as winter begins to sidle surreptitiously into slumber in silent support of spring and the inevitable salubrious sashay into summer, a young man's fancy turns (once again) to the iron horse - the style, the freedom, the life ... roll on easy-rider (get your motor running', head out on the highway ..) Actually, girls ride postie-bikes too .. they may well be the ultimate equaliser. I don't think it's too much to suggest that the not-so-humble postie bike is the single most important milestone in the millenium long struggle for equality between the sexes. There, I've said it, so it must be true. http://www.postiebikechallenge.org/the_challenge.htm http://www.aaron.com.au/lonepostie/thebike.html http://www.austouring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1734 oh yeah ... bump go on ... you know you want it! :P Slap

In a nutshell (gross generalities follow!): Don't arrange your macpherson strut front suspension so that your lower control arms go past flat - they point upwards for a very good reason. The roll center for a macpherson strut is at a point where a line drawn along the lower control arm meets one drawn at right angles to the shock top mount point. When your arms move past flat, that roll center shifts to outside the car on the same side as the wheel that's being squashed - BAD!!! This is why people install roll-center-adjusters on the bottom of their struts - they move the control arm strut end downwards to restore the upward tilt toward the center of the car. Don't arrange your classic fixed point front and shackle mounted rear leaf suspension so that it deforms from a U shape to a ^ shape. When the leaf is flat, the ends are furthest apart and the spring exerts greatest leverage on the suspension hangers. As the spring deforms from the usual U shape towards flat, the spring not only exerts more force (due to deformation), but the geometry of the shackles produces more leverage for the spring force to act. As it deforms from flat into a ^ shape, the ends pull in and the leverage decreases even though the spring force increases. The end result is that the rear suspension can actually get softer as it travels more. Even if it doesn't actually get softer, the rate at which spring force increases gets smaller .. and smaller ... and smaller. As the leaf spring defroms past flat, the spring rate decreases - BAD!!! There are things you can do (sliding rear mounts rather than shackles for example), but they're beyond the scope of this discussion. When you flip the eyes on a leaf, you can keep close to the original arch whilst getting a decent amount of drop. Here's a piccie of inverted eyes on a leaf pack from a KE25. Note that they are installed with the arch in the same direction as it was originally ... ie. a U shape ... not the other way around :D cheese, Slapper

I've done a search without much luck - so: I need to send some rims from SA to QLD ... anyone have any ideas on who are decentish freight companies to use? Maybe we should sticky the compiled set of responses and shove it on the For Sale - Parts list or something? cheers, Slapper

bumpski - before storing it for the rest of winter. rego has been cancelled .. so price has been revised to $900 ono cheers

yep .. anything after 80kph and brakes become the issue!!!

No ... it's not the Corolla (that's safely stashed in the back yard) ... you'll not be having it I tell you!! Vehicle information: Honda CT110 - postie Bike Condition: average - fine - fair to muddling - reliable runner etc etc Price: $900 ono Location: Adelaide Contact: drop me a line here or PM me Well ... it's been a marvelous ride but the time has come for the Postie to leave my stable :yes: I bought it just more than a year ago and will be sad to see it go. Actually, it's not all sad - I've bought a bigger bike suitable for some longer range trips (XR400M). Unfortunately though, I need to fund a spare set of wheels and tyres for some trail riding ... and barkbusters .. and bash plate ... and the list seems to go on and on and on ... It's a 1991 CT110 with 38,000 on the clock - it had a new set of rings, gaskets and seals just before I bought it, which was at just more than 30,000km. I ride it to work rain or shine - reliable as stink. I've removed the intake restriction (disconnect snorkel from carry rack) and run it without the back half of the air box installed. I've gone up to a #95 main jet and the largest idle jet I could find. It makes it a little noisier but I have all the original bits if you want to go back to stealth mode! The opening up was to make the short blast I needed to do for a while in 80kph traffic not quite so onerous! I've also strapped on a long-range tank of XR250 heritage which much more than doubles the postie's range. At the moment I'm pulling about 70 km a week and rarely touch the under-seat tank in two weeks commuting. I hit it from time to time to keep the fuel fresh and fuel lines clean, but that's about it. The rear tyre is almost new and the chain and sprockets are in good nick. It's got the scrapes and bends you'd expect from an 18 year old postie, but the upside of the age is that it is now old enough to drink :y: It could possibly do with a new set of front brake shoes ($30) but it's really just a case of jump on your iron horse and cruise :y: The seat's got a couple of tears where the vinyl creases ... nothing a slap of gaffa tape hasn't been able to fix. Rego has been cancelled as I'm not riding it - but can be reinstated before the sale at the buyer's cost. Here is your chance to acquire a piece of super-pumped awesomeness that will make your friends sit up and say "howdy". A pivotal part of Australian heritage, the humble postie will make admirers flock to you and ask for your autograph. It cures 75% of all known diseases and resists infection carried by fruit bats. Opportunities such as this come along rarely ... go ahead ... live the dream. cheers, Slapper

hmmm ... side to side on a front-wheel-drive is kinda interesting ... I assume you mean when the car is stationary and idling. does it change with rev's at all? does it do it if you coast along with the clutch in and the engine idling? I'd be checkinbg engine mounts first. cheers, Slap

First thing you can do to increase its performance is get rid of the shaking and banging. Actually, don't even think about "what can i do to my car to increase its performance" until you've diagnosed the banging and the shaking - that just doesn't sound good :fuzz: firstly, there's not a hope in hell that anyone can help with such a broad description of the problem ... we need some more detail and some specifics. For example: this could easily be caused by 16 belly dancers in the boot who start their gyrations only when the vehicle is stationary. remedy: get the 16 belly dancers out of your boot and tell them to go home. this could easily be caused by one of the belly dancers who got into the engine bay by mistake (she meant to get into the boot with the others) and is now banging on the underside of the bonnet to be let out. remedy: get the belly dancer out from under the bonnet and tell her to go home. seriously though ... Is it shaking as you come to a stop? What sort of shaking? Side to side, up and down, fast, slow ??? Does it feel like it's coming from the back of the car or the front? Does the brake pedal pulsate under your foot? Does the steering wheel shake in your hand? What sort of banging? High and tinny, deep and thumpy? Does it speed up when you rev the motor? Is it in time with the shaking? (for example) suspect: engine mounts warped discs out of round drums tyre tread separating tyre out of round wheel out of balance (detached weights, mud adhering to rim etc) worn suspension components big end bearings piston conrods dropped valve torn fan belts worn CV joints faulty universals cheers, Slapper

450 lbs (that's 8 kg/mm) ... holy crap !! :) What did you finish up doing to the back that makes you want it that stiff at the front? I'd have though that, whilst suspension that hard might still handle better (ish) than stock, it'd be a long way from "good" handling on the street. I think you'll need to find a spring maker up your end of the world ... I doubt whether anybody's going to have that stock. cheers, Slapper

4 bolts each ... 2 at the front to the rail under the radiator, 2 at the rear to the chassis rails. Agreed - a wrecker should be easy enough to sort. If you go to a u-pullit type deal, you'll need to remove the swaybar to get the brackets as they go through them if I recall correctly. cheers, Slapper