slapper

don't know about AE82 - see if you can cross-reference from a King Springs catalogue, which should be available online. Try Industrial Springmakers on Prt Road in Adelaide - ;ast time I looked they had an online coil springs catalogue too. My original tests were done chopping the original springs in my AE71 - 1 coils front, 1 1/2 coils rear gave me what I considered perfect for my daily driver. cheers

I can't see your pictures from work, so I can only guess the extent of your problem. When you dump the car from the jack, it will sit high ... roll it back and forth a few times (up and down the driveway should probably be enough) to let the wheels find their natural position. Are KONI reds gas shocks? If so, they will tend to pump the car up a little - I had to go back to the maker and have my low springs reset even lower when I put them in with Monroe Gas dampers. Don't expect your car to "settle over the next couple of weeks" ... in reality this effect will be negligible unless you've assembled it incorrectly. The Pedders springs will be stiffer than the OEM ones you've removed. They won't compress as much as the OEM ones will with the weight of the front end. As I mentioned before, LOW springs from another manufacturer, coupled with gas shocks had my KE25 higher only marginally lower than it originally was with the 25 year old OEM configuration. Hope that helps, Slapper

VERY hard question to answer - we don't know your level of "get dirty and do stuff" potential ... here's what I would do: if you've got multiple problems with the dash (fuel gauge + lights), it's likey to be an "in-dash" problem. step 1: hope theat the fuel gauge issue is the dash and not the sender. step 2: check all fuses. step 3: pull the dash out. step 4: explore potential earthing issues. step 5: check dash light circuits and fuel gauge circuits. step 6: if that didn't fix the gauge, go to u-pull it and find a KE3x - then u-pull the fuel gauge from the dash and the fuel level sensor for good measure ... price: who knows? step 7: stick the replacement sensor in the dash. step 8: stick the level sensor in the fuel tank if required. price for all this: a decent chunk of your time + whatever u-pullit charge you + miscellaneous connectors, solder etc. OR - as previously suggested, go to an auto-electrician and get your wallet ready :) cheers, Slapper

Phil, slow down mate .... with all your sentences running together I'm not sure I can work out what you're trying to say!! I've read your post two or three times, making an educated guess - I think you're worried about your front wheels and your rear wheels having different PCD? I'm not sure about this interpretation though as that link in the FAQ describes how to put KE3/5/7x on your KE1x without changing the PCD. It involves using a KE2x hub which is the same as the KE10 stud spacing. If you are intent on going to the later stud pattern (KE3/5/7x etc), you'll need to replace your rear axles with modified items from a later car. That's covered in the FAQ too: stud pattern Felix posted "They will work fine with the stock master cylinder" earlier ... does that answer your last question? Take time with your post and whack in some punctuation if you can - it makes it heaps easier to understand what you're actually asking, rather than having to make an educated guess! It may help to use the Preview Post button before you hit the Add Reply button. Sometimes it turns out that what you want to say isn't actually what others read! (Happens to me all the time :P ) cheers, Slapper

just a quickie. The KE30 already shares the same stud pattern (4x114.3) as the KE70. KE1X and KE2X have the 4x110 pattern. cheers, Slapper PS. have a look in the FAQ (link at the top of the rollaclub page) - there's a section in there on brake upgrades.

If you don't already know how to do it, or know that the answer is "get a gregory's and follow the instructions" then this is a job probably best left to a mechanic :) It is, in point of fact, a prick of a job without the right tools :( The CV joint needs to be removed before a new boot can be installed. CV repair shops will do it in a morning for not too much cash. I've done a couple on older cars (mini) and bloody hated it - cost me $170 odd to have one CV joint replaced including new boot in my pulsar, which I thought was well worth it! A boot without the joint will probably cost you $60 a side or so. If you are dead keen (and, let's face it, I am such a cheap bastard that I'd probably try doing it myself despite what I just said!), grab a gregory's and hop into it. Put aside a day just in case. Pick up generic boots from Sprint or Supercheap or Autopro or MotorTraders or whoever you have in your neck of the woods and a fresh bottle of hand cleaner. If your CV joints are worn (if they're not clicking already, try a quick burst of hard acceleration whilst at full lock to see if they're on their way out) then it'd be a good idea to replace them at the same time. Otherwise, a bit of a clean and repack with the correct grease and you're away. But trust me - if you have any cash at all, CV joints are best left to someone else!! cheers, Slapper

Try running a jumper cable from battery negative terminal to the starter casing ... This gives you a nice ground connection straight to the starter motor. If this works, then you have a bad ground connection somewhere between battery and block. If it still just clicks, then listen closely and see if the click is coming from the starter motor itself, or somewhere else - let us know. cheers, Slapper

well, you need to come back to first principles. The hole in the exhaust could be contributing to your problems. Manifold leak could explain you idle and stalling issues. It sounds like you need to fix the things you know are wrong (hole in exhaust, manifold leak) before you start trying to chase anything else - by all means cut another hole later if you want, but you need to remove that from the equation. I hope your mate knows what he's doing ... I'm not sure I'd allow anyone who suggested cutting a hole in my exhaust to improve the sound anywhere near my car :D cheers, Slapper

ignore them .. they think they're in an 80's movie :P Flux capacitor my arse, next you'll be telling me the frange spigot is in need of a light oiling ... It's highly unlikely that the fact that your car is now lower has anything to do with this. Maybe you knocked/hit/crimped or broke something in the process though, so I'd be checking things around where you were working. When you say lowered: front? back? new springs? chopped springs? what sort of car? Standard approach when things like this happen: is to check everything electrical starting with things you are most likely to have been working around. check all your distributor leads. check all your battery connections. check all your alternator connections. check all your earth straps. check the fuel pump. check all the air hoses. my bet is on a slow and steady diagnosis for this one ... lowering a car shouldn't make the engine experience problems :yes: cheers, Slapper

so ... any news? :wink:

The CHARGE light is an indication that current is being drawn FROM the battery. This means your battery is supplying electrickery to the car rather than the alternator supplying it to the battery. ie. there is a CHARGING error. By the sounds of it, you're not actually experiencing a charging error condition, rather something is wrong in the error indicator. If your fuel gauge is playing up as well, then I'd suspect you dash gauge cluster. Pull it out and check that everything is contacting the copper tracks - nuts are tight, joints are good etc. Also check that the dash is correctly earthing to the chassis - easiest here is simply to run another wire (maybe even alligator clips) and see if it gets any better. As someone suggested, whack a multimeter on your battery. Nothing running, it should be about 12 volts. Car started, it should be about 13.8 volts. This indicates that your alternator is correctly supplying 13.8 V charging voltage to the battery whilst the engine is running. What the CHARGE light shows is that it thinks that the battery voltage is higher than the alternator voltage. If it illuminates when that's not actually the case, it's usually a gauge earthing issue. cheers, Slapper

-ve post on the battery connects to -ve cable. -ve cable attaches to chassis. chassis is attached to engine block via two earth straps if i recall correctly. starter motor gets -ve connection via its connection to the engine. Any of these connections can break down - and are most likely to break down when you try to crank the engine. At this point, you're attempting to draw a couple of hundred amps and the weakest link may collapse. If you're connecting the donor battery to the -ve cable from the battery (probably clamping it over the end of the cable where it attaches to the battery post I guess), then you're just showing that the connections from that cable to the -ve on the starter motor are all good. In which case, if it is a connection issue, it's probably between the -ve battery post and the cable that goes to the chassis. Basically, whatever connections are being bypassed by the jumper cable are probably the problematic ones. Try jumper lead from Corolla battery -ve terminal straight to the block. Try disconnecting the earth cable from the corolla battery and verify that you can still start with the jumper cable and donor battery - this shows that it's not the combined effect of two batteries that's making everything good. Try running a jumper lead from your Corolla battery -ve terminal to the chassis, or even straight to the earth cable that you've just disconnected. This will hopefully work and show that your Corolla battery +ve connections are good and the -ve connection is what's having problems. Essentially, what you're trying to do - given that it sounds like the Corolla battery is quite capable of starting your car - which of the connections between it and the starter motor are breaking down. let us know .... :cool: cheers, Slapper

maybe maybe maybe - you've had the head off, have you forgotten to reattach an earth strap? So, it jump starts fine - starter motor fine etc ... When you jump start, you're attaching donor battery +ve to corolla +ve ... where are you attaching the -ve? Corolla battery -ve terminal, chassis or engine? If engine, then I'd be suspecting earth. cheers, Slapper

add rose joint to a control arm note: you'll find this modification isn't legal in a road car - not sure whether you could get it engineered though... cheers, Slapper

given the recent "carb-job", I'd be looking for an air leak. That would tally with the distributor twist peaking as well. cheers, Slappe

Only thing I can think of is maybe check the cam belt hasn't slipped a notch. cheers, slapper

gidday Matthew, I think you're in Adelaide? p'raps this will help: KE parts In amongst that lot, you'll find I'm selling off a complete KE30 front end without the struts for the mega value price of $10 (or a six pack). stock control arms stock sway bar stock tie-rod ends stock lower control arms stock radius rods stock steering arms blah blah blah basically, everything bar the struts. use what you need and chuck the rest in the shed for a rainy day, or in the bin :P cheers, Slapper

don't know how sparkly you want them .... but I reckon these would fit the styling: my humble opinion of course .. not at all influenced by the fact that I'm selling them :P (photoshop them on, I think they look good) Guy I originally got them off (a few years back now) had them on a KE30/50 something They're a bit scuffed up, so not much good if you're after show 'n' shine. If interested, check the ad at KE25 leftovers ad For extra toughness, I considered painting the middle satin black. In the end I decided I was too lazy :( cheers, Slapper

ke1x ke2x ke3x ke5x run leaf spring rear with damper (borg warner or banjo style "japanese" diff) KE70/AE71/AE86 run coil rear side-by-side with a damper cheers, Slapper

I should qualify that statement ... 185x65x13 in my cheap arse buying range were getting hard to find! They're still out there, but I go through a set of tyres every 12 months so I don't buy good ones :) cheers

Just to add to the confusion: on my AE71, I have had 185x65x13 on both the original 5 inch and my replacement 6 inch rims. The difference was very noticeable - with the 5 inch rim giving less precise in turning (presumably due to sidewall flex). Those tyres on the 6 inch rims were lovely. Having said that, I've gone to 175's on the original rims as 185x65x13 were getting hard to find - they have the same tread width as the 185's I was previously running and they feel floppy on the 5 inch rim. Next chance I get, they'll go back on the 6 inch rims. So ... my reccomendation for the 13x6 rims is 185. If you can't get them, check the available 175's as you may find they're the same tread width anyway despite allegedly being 10mm thinner. When i originally put 13 inch rims on the KE25, 185x55x13 were the correct rolling diameter - which were very precise (a joy to behold and a thing of beauty even). When I changed the diff and speedo sender ratios, 185x65x13 were noticeably more squirmy. cheers, Slapper

extractors - can't speak for 1x and 7x, but can contribute to ke2x and 3/5x info: ke2x exhaust hugs the transmission and runs between the gearbox cross-member, gearbox and floor. ke3/5x exhaust hangs a little further out from the engine and goes around the gearbox cross-member under the left-hand side of the car - the ke2x gearbox cross-member is much wider then the ke3/5x item. so - ke3/5x extractors don't fit a ke2x because: They hang too far to the left and hit the steering idler in RHD car (probably worse in a LHD). They want to run straight through the gearbox cross-member under the left-hand seat. To make them fit, I had them heated and bent to avoid the steering idler and a U section welded into the gearbox cross-member. Slapper

Mick - not a good idea posting your phone numbers on a publicly visible web-page. edit your post, remove them and PM the dude. cheers, slapper

wow ... I'm going to retract everything I said (except for the bit about the noise) with the statement "apparently I don't know enough to comment" !! I've just done a little reading on the 'net (and don't have time to do more at the moment) and ... Apparently, straight and helical cut are available in dog-box or synchro form. Apparently, straight cut results in no thrust stresses whereas helical does. Helical is quieter. Straight may be more efficient due to the lack of thrust forces - no rotational forces are converted to thrust ... Arguments abound in both directions about which is stronger - apparently, straight seems to allow stronger designs, but these are not necessarily realised. Straight cut dog-box is the race car choice - faster gearchanges, but more technique required from the driver. Helical is the usual street choice due purely and simply to the noise. Here's a cut-and-paste from (2005 post) another web group - it's a nice summary. The poster is from Andrewtech Automotive who specialise in Subaru shite on the US East Coast: Straight Cut Gearset The Straight Cut gear design incorporating our PPG distinctive tooth profile provides even more strength than our already ultra reliable helically cut gearsets. One of our more popular items ... the Subaru WRX straight cut set can be found in vehicles with over 600hp. A far cry from the standard power output from factory and certainly a power level that needs a gear box of phenomenal strength to get power to the ground without failure. Straight cut gearsets are relatively noisy in operation and have an inherent whine to them. This is due to the meshing of the teeth when the gears are rotating. The meshing of straight cut teeth gives total contact along the tooth at all times which gives the straight cut tooth its added strength over the helically cut tooth . Helically Cut Gearset. PPG helically cut gearsets are our most popular product. Mainly used to transmit extreme power to the road in highly modified street cars. They are usually purchased by those wanting less gear noise than a Straight Cut gearset. Our Helical sets do produce slightly more gear noise than a standard factory gearset as a result of a purely motor sport based gear design which makes necessary compromises in regards to gear noise, to achieve uncompromised strength. Synchromesh Engagement (Synchro ‘box) PPG Synchromesh Gearsets enable factory style gear selection to be incorporated into your Helical or Straight Cut Gearbox. The Synchro’ Box is mainly used for street applications. At PPG we make the Synchromesh rings and hubs considerably stronger than factory components and incorporate our high quality materials and heat treating processes into the finished product ensuring durability you can rely upon for years to come. Dog Engagement (Dog ‘box) Essentially a “race only” style of gear engagement, this has become more and more popular for highly modified street cars. Dog Engagement gear selection is available on either Helical or Straight cut PPG Gearsets for a variety of applications. And a combination of Dog and Synchro’ is available on our Subaru sets. Providing fast, positive gear selection, with or without the use of clutch. The PPG Dog Engagement gear sets are undoubtedly the strongest and most “user friendly” on the market. However it should be pointed out that Dog Engagement Gearsets require fast, firm gear selection and are quite noisy on each gear change cheers, Slapper

yes, straight cut is stronger. YES, straight cut is noisier (holy crap noisier) - half the noise you hear in the group A in-car cameras is the gearbox. yes, they demmand more proficiency from the driver - you need to get it all the way into gear, or don't bother. Helical gears tend to "pull themselves together" when partially meshed ... straight cut gears will just tear the ends off the teeth. Daily driver, street ... other people sometimes drive your car - helical. If you want to be able to listen to the radio - helical :evil: What are you putting the transmission behind that strength is a consideration? cheers, Slapper