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slapper

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Everything posted by slapper

  1. Hmmm - no kickdown cable I'm aware of (there might be alinkage you can buy to do it though). Simplest: you'll need an adapter plate to go between your manifold and the carby - about $40 worth. You won't need extractors. Don't forget to allow for filters etc as well. It's generally a bit of a fiddle getting everything to fit - throttle linkages, emissions stuff .. almost always something already at the base of the carby wants to interfere with one or more bolts, levers or whatnot from the weber and needs to be relocated/removed. Deciding what to do with the emissions stuff can be a chore. The linkage on the carby never fits the end of the accelerator cable ... plus, the accelerator cable bracket is always in the wrong place! It's almost never a quick swap-over :y: but worth the effort if you do it. chairs, Slapper
  2. You're looking for something called an "Automotive Instruction" from TransportSA ... extract from Information Bulletin 3 - Modifications to Passenger Cars, Car Type Utilities and Panel Vans (published by SA Government): ENGINE CHANGES COVERED BY AUTOMOTIVE INSTRUCTIONS Transport SA has developed a series of Automotive Instructions to eliminate the necessity to obtain a Statement of Requirements for engine changes to some vehicles. When an Automotive Instruction is used, lodging an Application to Modify a Motor Vehicle form or obtaining a Statement of Requirements is not required for the modification, however, an inspection of the vehicle may still be required on completion of the modification. I can't recall which particular Automotive Instruction you need, but it has a picture of a KE30 or thereabouts corolla on the front :y: I reckon my local Motor Vehicle Registration office had a bunch of them on a stand. Slapper
  3. Raven - if you're thinking about doing this, check with Regency first. Last time I checked, any of the KE series corollas could upgraded to a 4K or 5K with just a notification of changed engine number. Basically, these mod's are considered "approved in principal". You could upgrade to a single cam 1600 with just an "over the pits inspection". Anything else required engineering. When I dropped the 4K into the KE25 (must have been in 2000 or there abouts), I just rang the department of transport with the new engine number (and my insurer too). Slapper
  4. I've just done this to my AE71 - only a 32DIR at the moment until I get around to fidgetting the carby kit through the 32/36. It's a whole new car! Revs happily, much more responsive, fuel economy has remained largely unchanged. Exhaust is till standard (except the resonator's been el-cheapo replaced with a lump of straight through pipe after it spat the dummy). Cam to come later - maybe! When I've had the 32/36 on for a bit, I'll post a thread about it ... so I can include impressions and fuel economy shite. Bottom line: for cheapness, you can't beat stuffing another 4AC back in. To make it a much more entertaining car, slap a weber in there too :y:. cheers, Slapper
  5. Get underneath, grab stuff and start shaking it - if it's got that much play in it, you should be able to tell which bits are loose. Start with tie-rod ends ... if one's worn, chances are both will be. Wobble down to your local parts retailler on your pushy and buy the necessary ends (prolly $30 or so each). Clean and mark up where the existing tie-rod ends screw onto the rack ends - you'll need this to make sure you set the new ones as near as possible to the correct position (after this is all done, you're going to need a wheel align, but you may as well start close to where it needs to be to make the drive to the workshop easier). Make a note of your steering wheel position when driving straight and do one tie-rod end at a time. After you do each end, go for a drive - if your steering wheel is not where it was before you replaced bits, adjust the position of the tie-rod (you don't need to disconnect everything and screw the tie-rod end itself in or out - the steering rack ends rotate ... get a spanner to the steering rack end and twist in or out as required). Once you've got your steering wheel back to the right place (ie. you have the same alignment you had before), you can move on to the other tie-rod end. If you've done both tie-rod ends and free play still exists, it's probably steering rack ends - this is a pain in the arse job and best left to the professionals ... although you can save a coupla bucks by buying the rack-ends somewhere else (I paid $60 a pair from some rooster on ebay - although that didn't include the boots that cover them so maybe it wasn't actually any cheaper). Take your car to a workshop that does wheel aligns and get them to replace the ends ... you may as well get a wheel alignment at the same time. If after all that, you still have a clunk in your steering (although there shouldn't be any discernible free-play), it's probably the steering rack guide that needs adjusting (big 24mm recessed socket on the right-hand side of the rack with a lock-nut). If all that sounds like too much pain and suffering ... take it to a workshop for the lot, labour for replacing tie-rod ends shouldn't cost too much ... and if it needs the rack-ends as well, you're already there :kiwi: Hope that helps, Slapper
  6. whoah - lots of traffic! All good, but I suspect a few people may have missed what I was trying to say (perhaps I buried it too deeply!) I'm not suggesting that any of the behaviour that has set people off is actually acceptable behaviour and that we should tolerate it. I'm suggesting we need to take a quick sanity check of how we respond to the noobs who ruffle our feathers - and I'm definitely not suggesting that people who continually offend should be allowed to do so with a waffling "aww, stop it .. you're not being nice" whinge. When the time's a right, a "for fsck's sake grow a decent moustache and harden up" is what's needed. When someone stuffs up at work, I tell them so in a polite and constructive manner designed to encourage them to do a better job ... rather than tell them to "fsck off" until they can get it right. I'm not implying that's what's happening here - but I can see hints that it might be heading that way. We're in danger of becoming so intolerant of errant behaviour that, rather than encouraging better behaviour, we run the risk of losing out on potential contributors. I see a lot of good work being done by the tireless mod's - and I don't see their actions as contributing to the problem ... most (all?) of what I'm talking about has come from the keyboard of others - albeit perhaps in an attempt to help out. when some boofhead posts without reading the rules - enlighten them with an additional "there are a lot of international contributor's on this noticeboard, please be courteous and follow our rules". The tricky bit comes when they continue to play up and the mod's have to step in and lock threads and ban offenders. I'm not suggesting that every new poster who splats shite across the page is a potential K expert just waiting for the nurturing love of the rollaclub to encourage them to blossom and reach their full potential :kiwi: - but that everybody deserves a chance to screw up at least once ... and that we let our fingers do the expletive deleted shouting only when someone's had a fair chance to realise the errors of their ways and take corrective action. So - summary: I'm not suggesting we change any of our rules, or even become more tolerant of people breaking them I am suggesting that we point out transgressions in less beligerent manner As a side note - if I'm going to say something personal to someone ... I'll usually do it with a PM (and dump a "you've got a PM" in the thread). now, if you'll excuse me ... I have a weber to put on the 4AC :) Slapper
  7. One of the reasons I like being a part of rollaclub is that there's a general feeling a goodwill that permeates. I'm worried that the influx of new members (granted - some of whom behave like utter tools) is causing us to lose our general friendliness and to treat them with a "play by our rules or f@$k off" attitude. I've seen a couple of new members post using poor grammar, SMS speak etc subjected to pretty harsh criticism that seemed (to me) a bit over the top. SMS speak (for example) and trashy grammar are the stock-in-trade of many other newsgroups and often these people just don't know any better. Additionally, some people just don't communicate too good (although I am much more gooderer than them) and we need to be careful that we don't confuse lack of experience/expertise/communication-skills with wankerishness (new word that you can all feel free to use whenever you like). I think we need to make sure that we don't become so "up ourselves" that we can no longer be bothered helping the noobs. comments? cheers, Slapper
  8. easy there Spike :kiwi: I did laugh when I saw the obvious refernce to a Baroque composer having his hair removed .. but I didn't feel compelled to respond to such ignorance with the amount of vitriol you felt compelled to sluice upon his unsuspecting arse! I would've worded it something like "aww, come on ... make an effort with the typing - you look like a dickhead when you send words like that ... and it makes people tend to discount what you post as childish ramblings" like, stay cool man :) Slapper PS. I can't see any pictures when I surf from work ... so I can't comment on your shaving efforts today KErolla
  9. I've scored a coupla 32/36 DGVs and first order of business is to give them a cleanup. After removing the holders, the emulsion tubes are refusing to fall out in a willful and wanton display of bad manners. I don't want to go stuffing bits of wire and whatnot down there to encourage them ... I'm sure I'll screw the brass ... any hot hints from rollaclub land? cheers, Slapper
  10. you know ... sad as I am to say it ... I have no idea what you are trying to say :D (my turn to be a grumpy old bastard!) Does this car have rust? If so, where is it? Or are you just (maybe) after comments on the routing of your wires behind the dash? Are those pics in any sort of order? What (exactly) are you asking your fellow corolla afficionados to comment on? and just what are we looking at? I'm not just being a belligerent prick either ... I'm actually keen to find out what your the problem with rust is. cheers, Slapper
  11. short version: I write embedded software - at that stage for the automotive division of Motorola At the time, we were building Telematics Control Units - and I was in Germany cos the shit was hitting the fan with the cellular network screwing up SMS messaging in a blackspot somewhere around Ragensburg ... if I recall correctly! Turned out to be a bug in the cellular network's software ... Damn it ... for that project, I had code in Audis, BMWs and Porsches as well ... and never once a "f@$k, we're having problems .. come help us" from Porsche! chairs, Slapper
  12. In a previous lifetime, my job had me in Germany working on the then newly revived Maybach (Daimler Chrysler). One day of test drives, we specifically went looking for an autobarn so I could tick off the over 200 kph box in my list of "things to do". I got to 240 kph ... really wanted a bit more, but it was too busy. The Maybach (we were working the long wheelbase version that day) is a monstrous big, heavy lump of metal and having someone pull out into the fast lane when you're wafting along at 240 just got too much for me! After that, we cruised the 45 minutes back to Sindelfingen at a comfortable 200 kph. Took some photos of the speedo - and tried to take one of a ferrari as we flew past ... but all we got was blurred country side! That was a fun trip ... Maybach hadn't been released yet at this stage (we were driving a factory "prototype") and everywhere we went, people would stop, stare, point etc. We had to fuel up at a servo and a coupla lads came over and asked in halting english "Maybach?" ... umm ... yes " can we sit in it?" ... umm ... no "can we look inside?" ... ummmm ... no .... quick wind up all the windows ... pay for the damn petrol ... I'm sure we're going to get into trouble for this! As a side note, probably the only Maybach to hit opposite lock coming out of a carpark - damn, that twin-charged V12 is grunty, but turbo lag is a bitch! aaaaah. good times ... I'd forgotten all about that! cheers, Slapper
  13. I haven't been for a few years .. just getting back in to it :yes: what sort of music are you doing?
  14. second that - I've had them invert eyes for me as well. Slapper
  15. sorry for the tardy reply ... I've been at the Clipsal getting beer and sunburn :P Car has been off the road for a while now (must be nearly two years I would think by now - my how time flies!), but I don't recall any problems coming off throttle. Looking at the back of the car, there does seem to be a larger than appropriate evidence of soot, but apart from that, the shite all over the carby is all I've really noticed. Something somebody said prompted me to think along the lines of the stock 4K fuel pump putting too much pressure into the weber - that's why I asked the original (what fuel pump/regulator are people using) question ... so far I haven't really had a definitive, unequivocal answer to the question "is the stock fuel pump okay with a 32DIR downdraft?". I've had: I've had no problems with the stock pump I've had no problems with a facet I've had no problems with a no-name electric what you should run is a regulator what you should run is a carter 4070 what you should run is a facet no matter what you do, you're going to need a regulator as you can see ... no clear way forward from the advice I've received so far! so - pressure gauge before I even think of replacing the stock mechanical pump so I have a starting point to work from. I'll let people know how I go ... but I've blown my pocket money for this month and possibly next, so this is not likely to be a quickie! cheers, Slapper
  16. more info as promised/hinted/indicated/threatened. there's a two piece playing befoer us, so it looks like we'll probably hit the noise button 9:30 or so. Slapper
  17. thanks everyone - I think first thing I'll do is get a fuel pressure gauge - a wet one for use inside the engine bay, not a 'leccy in-cabin job. Dropped into Sprint on the way home to get some prices - they'll ring me back. Any body got any views on the difference between in-line and T-piece (in/out vs a single in connection)? cheers, Slapper
  18. posted this on toymods - but I know there are a coupla subscribers who don't necessarily get over there, so I'll post here as well ... Well, the 32DIR on the 4K is haemorrhaging fuel (seemingly) from every available seal and partial orifice after a year of use ... well, there's a nice coating of red fuel and dirt shite all over it ... and I'm suspecting fuel pressure may be the culprit. I'm about to slap a 32/36 on the 4AC and (in addition to fixing the 4K's problem) I don't want the same issues on this one ... I have the stock 4K fuel pump pushing fuel into the weber - I think the toyota pump is in the 7-9 psi region, where as the weber probably wants somewhere around 4 based on the web meanderings I have done. So ... I've started looking for a suitable leccy fuel pump or pressure regulator, only to be confronted with so many options that I don't know quite what's what. The obvious question (of people who know more about this than I do) is "what's a suitable pump/regulator without breaking the budget?". The local SuperCheap has a Facet Posi-Flow (1.5-4 psi) for $90, autoPro want to sell me a (no-name?) Hansa FP401 (4-7 psi) for the same price with staff at both shops claiming their option as the perfect solution to my problem. What have youse people used (fuel pump, regulator)? Was it successful? How much did it cost? If I go down the fuel-pump path, wiring it up will be okay - I have the necessary knowledge concerning Circuit Opening Relays, fuses etc etc thanks, Slapper
  19. For those Adelaide people that are interested in a bit of party rock with their beverage: GASLIGHT TAVERN 36 CHIEF STREET BROMPTON (OFF PORT ROAD) SATURDAY MARCH 10TH 2007 8.00 PM A bit of old stuff, a bit of new stuff (Beatles/Elvis Costello through to Jet/WolfMother) - emphasis on party/pub rock. 4 piece guitar band - I do lead vocals. Two bands, don't know who's playing first - I'll post more info when it comes to hand. Slapper
  20. what do you mean "it won't earth" ? You need to expose some bare metal and bolt an earth cable to it - use a coupla star washers and a decent bolt ... Look at the earth cables in your engine bay ... you'll need at least that size. does that help? Slapper
  21. just had a quick squiz at their website ... 120 Amp is the best they can do. hmmmm Slapper
  22. somebody was just crazy enough to ask for a photo! The orange lead comes from the battery in the boot. The other lead is what remains of the original that was attached to the +ve battery terminal. The two "terminal" bolts are very counter-sunk on the other side so they don't short to the chassis ... the countersunk holes are also full of epoxy. I made the countersink holes small enough that the bolt heads are a very tight fit as I can't get a spanner to them to tighten them up once it's all fitted. The screws that mount the block to the car are also well countersunk to reduce the risk of shorts. The lump of metal bridging the two bolts is a lump of 2 mm steel that I had lying around. cheers, Slapper
  23. try that with the new one as well ... if you've got spark now then 1) blame the old distributor 2) you've probably got the replacement in a tooth or two out try twisting the distributor left and right to see if it improves the "sounds like it might be going to start" situation Either way, diagnosis is very different depending on whether you have spark or not. NO spark - chase reason for no spark YES spark - probably timing problem Slapper
  24. what about indicators? I haven't looked to make sure, but there's a good chance that all the tail lights share a common ground .... or a common power. Either way, if that's shashed you'll see this kind of thing. Either way, first thing to do is to see whether you're getting power at the lights. Second is to check they are earthing. If either is not true, you need to start tracing back to find the cause. cheers, Slapper just had a quick look at the wiring diagram (slow day at the office!) 12V comes to the brake light switch after the fuse. From there to the brake lights - so check that you're getting 12V at the brake lights when you tromp the pedal. From there, the lights go to a ground somewhere - if you're getting 12V, try shorting lamp body to metal somewhere on the body to check whether you've got a dodgey ground.. I can't find reversing lights on the damn diagram, so I can't tell whether they share a common ground with the brake lights. However ... looks like the number plate light, tail lights and indicators do ... so a dodgey earth would probably take them out as well. If this looks like the case, try cleaning the connector in the loom .... otherwise, just run a new wire from one of the lamp bodies to the chassis.
  25. If you haven't already done so, remove the strut from the car - life will be easier! Whilst you do this, slot the brake line holder so you won't need to split the brake line next time you need to get the strut out. You'll need spring compressors to relieve the spring pressure on the top and bottom spring seats. once you have squished the spring enough that it no longer binds against the top and bottom plates, you can undo that nut you mentioned ... although ... you might have fun stopping the shock shaft from rotating as you attempt to undo the nut. The top spring seat is slotted and slips onto a cut-out on the shock shaft ... the shaft and top spring seat are free to rotate against the top "hat" that bolts to the chassis in the engine bay. You will need to stop the shock shaft from rotating to undo this nut - make sure the top seat is sitting down on the shaft (so that when you twist it, the shaft also twists) - hold the seat still whilst you turn the nut. You may need to get the seat into a vice or something if the nut resists. I have found that "breaking the nut" whilst the strut is still in the car can be handy. Crack it and undo it a couple of turns - until you just see the thread disappear into the nut. The nut should now turn pretty easily when you need it to undo the rest of the way, whilst it's still holding onto enough of the shaft to hold the spring while you take the strut out of the car. enjoy, Slapper
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