slapper

usually you can find this kind of info somewhere in here: Toyota Corolla 1970-1987 Repair Guide in particular, this page talks about the points: Breaker Points and Condenser this is a US based doco, so you need to read it with some understanding that Australian models and years may be slightly different ... cheers, Slapper

dang it ... no AE71/KE70 rack ends at the moment though ... I've dropped them an email to see if they can get them for me anyway. At $50 a side from Sprint, Mr Ebay sounds like a good alternative! I have managed to find some info about the work involved ... including difficulty getting spanners to fit into the slots on the rack and the ends to facilitate removal ... the various comments I've seen lead to the suspicion that I'll pay someone to do it. Unless they want to charge me too much! I will try Pedders on Commercial Road as that's quite close to work, although my previous experinece with Pedders is that they like to charge fairly gratuitously for work done - granted, that was a different Pedders workshop though ... cheers, Slapper

Steering rack ends in the AE71 need replacing. I can't find any info on doing this on the 'net - usually my search skills are beyond immediate reproach, even if not so once subjected to detailled and relentless scrutiny ... If someone has a link to some info, that would be very groovy. Alternatively ... maybe someone can indulge me with answers to the following questions: Before I start breaking out the ramps, tools, removing rack boots and generally opening a can of worms I don't want ... what's involved? :) Is replacing the rack ends a big job (I've replaced inner and outer tie-rods and rebushed the whole front end on the 25 before ... ) best left to someone with appropriate presses etc, or is this yet another opportunity to upset the finely tuned wife/car time balance by spending an afternoon under the car? If anyone has a recommendation of a workshop in Adelaide (city to northern suburbs ish) who'd do this without me having to sell either kidney ... that'd be good too. cheers, Slapper

from: redline manifolds PART NO. 12-22 Toyota Twin Cam Engine 100KW 1600 4AGE Single port. Manifold designed to accept 2 x 45DCOE Weber Carburettors. LINKAGE KIT P/NO.42-2500 so yeah ... it's possible! you may run into problems with fitting trumpet and/or filters though ... the engine bay will prolly be a little cramped. Slapper

fuse (300A or so) should be as close to the battery as possible. It's there to blow if the cable gets damaged anywhere and shorts to the chassis. If you put your battery in the boot, be sure and vent the box to atmosphere somewhere - or run a sealed battery (that's my plan). Currently doing this to the 25 - built a terminal block out of a lump of wood (inelegant but functional) that I installed in the engine bay. Original battery lead connects to this. photos later if you're interested. slapper

been there, felt that pain ... check my post on toymods ... (last post on this page) http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.p...ghlight=slapper essentially, I cut a slot in the brakeline holder - picture in toymods post cheese, Slapper

dang ... last place I would've looked! how'd you decide that was the problem? I guess rag over the exhaust may have helped to indicate exhaust blockage as causing the strange noises anyway? well done. Slapper

he's in Canada by the sounds of things ... swap those references around :P 4K has aircleaner on left hand side of car 4A has air cleaner on right hand side of car cheers, Slapper edit: not even mentioning that the last picture is of a left-hand-drive car anyway!

no brillyint ideas from me just yet ... but add "check timing, particularly centrifugal advance and vacuum retard" to your list. when it dies under load, does it happen immediately you hit the hill or what? If you floor it on the straight and level, what happens? Going up the hill - is there a right foot setting that will have it climb the hill steadily but not accelerate? If so, how does it feel when you gradually press the go pedal from this point? Try the hill without the air-cleaner ... is the hissing different? Whilst idling, try partially blocking the exhaust with a thick rag ... is the hissing different? Lift the idle to 1500 or so - ... partially block the snorkel on the air cleaner ... is the hissing differenht? This sounds like a right pain in the arse! Slapper

do you need to register the result? if you do, remember that it will be way harder to register anything in South Australia in non-factory configuration. cheers, Slapper

first try at KE25 cheap lowering ... rear: invert eyes on main leaf, add a leaf front: chop 1.5 coils enjoy, Slapper

youse pipple done fine without me! besides ... I was busy .. gotta actually do some work some time! plus I would've just said: oh ... wait ... that's what everyone said :S aaah ... gotta lurv the fuse. Slapper

No offence mate - but your buddy's a f'cking wanker. Even if you believe an eye-for-an-eye, his response was way outta line for someone simply parking too close. His minor inconvenience is in no way balanced by a coupla grand worth of panel damage. Not withstanding the myriad reasons why someone might actually park too close without malice. I'm sorry - but the only realistic options involve asking the driver of the other car to compensate you for the damage ... however you go about doing that. 1) ALWAYS take details of the other car 2) wait and speak to them if you can and think you're up to it 3) leave a note on their windshield if you can't wait or don't want to 4) take a coupla photos if you can 5) if you have insurance that covers this kind of incident - brilyint: take all that to your insurance company. If you don't, then you've chosen to accept the responsibility of chasing shit like this up yourself - in which case, you must wait, or report the incident to the police and see if they can help you locate the driver. Really - the only time violence is an option is when you are threatened with violence. anecdote: I' so 'cking sick of crap drivers that tailgate - a coupla years ago a car sped up behind me and tailgated for a good half a kilometre as I decided to stick right on the speed limit and not let him get around me. Traffic was thick enough that there was no way he was getting past without me moving over. So self-righteous I was as he glared and gesticulated at me in my rear-view mirror - "another speeding/tailgating wanker" I thought ... "this'll teach him a lesson". Until I noticed his passenger ... a woman sitting low in the seat clearly in pain/distress ... I didn't feel so 'cking smart then, and it just reminded me that our perceptions of other people's intentions/behaviours are not always accurate - so it pays to make sure our response is not likely to be improper. Manners, politeness, good-sense ... call it what you like. cheers, Slapper

really, you guys .... you can't just flip leaves and expect there to be no change in handling ... some of it will help, some of it will hinder handling improvements. On balance, only careful analysis of what you've done will predict what will happen - or stick it in, drive it and see what the result is (empirical evidence). 1) you lower you center of gravity at the rear - good if you also lower it at the front 2) you lower your rear roll-center - more complicated, but generally good if you also match it with a change at the front ... although that's not as easy as it might sound (eg. lowering the front may actually raise your front roll-center with respect to your center of gravity) 3) who knows whether you've decreased or increased your rear spring rate? - decrease will give you more understeer (without considering other effects) - increase will give you more oversteer (without considering other effects) 4) you may allow your leaf pack to deform past flat - bad as leaf spring rate decreases once you go past flat 5) leaf spring generally increase in spring rate until they hit flat, then decrease as they deform past flat - what you've just built is a compound pack that will not necessarily behave in a useful manner. Your spring rate may actually decrease as you go over a bump or turn a corner up to the point where the flipped leaves achieve their original shape, from there it will increase. Or it may increase, then decrease, then increase again - leading to unpredictable handling ... you may find you car corners fine up to a point ... but a tighter corner gives you wonderful turn-in followed by massive understeer as your rear springs hit the decreased spring-rate zone. All in all, it's a cheap way of doing something for looks, but has no real place in a careful and considered approcah to improving handling. Having said that, it may also be entirely adequate for your needs. Any discussion of what happens when you hit your bump-stops is not limited to flipping leaves - the effect is the same however you lower the rear - flipped leaves may figure more prominently in the unpredictable behaviour of non-linear progressive spring-rates though. Strictly speaking - lowering leaves is a combination of one or more of the following if you're also interested in handling: 1) resetting leaves 2) having eyes on main leaf inverted 3) using lowering blocks (last resort) chairs, Slapper

yup ... that certainly matches what mlaser said first up too ... ae92=4af ... I think he was assuming the ae82 had a 4af based on his knowledge that the ae92 had one. However, ae82=4AC so far as I know. cheers, Slapper

I think the AE82 had the 4AC ... even if it has the 4AF, you've got no internals in common (A series vs K series engines). The weber is useable with an adapter plate - although I still haven't sourced one. They *do* exist but my time has been consumed by other deeds of late. Slapper

if you run it too tight, you'll shag your water-pump and/or alternator bearings ... usually water-pump first. I have found a large screw driver shoved down between the alternator and the block (used as a lever) most effecacious for holding the desired belt tension whilst tightening the top alternator bolt. It's easier to pull on the end of a long screwdriver than the alternator itself - just make sure you don't pull too hard and overtighten it. Slapper

can't help you with your repairs/rego woes but weclome to South Aust and the joy of working al the way out north at 'cken Elizabeth! If nobody's warned you already, watch out for speed cameras on the roads out of the base to the south - particularly the 80 down to 60 and 50 changes. cheers, Slapper

is it leaking from the crankshaft seal (others have described how to replace) or from the timing cover itself? If the leak is up near the water-pump, replacing the crankshaft seal ain't gonna help! Engine Timing Cover (Front Cover) - Toyota Corolla 1970-1987 Repair Guide Before you get keen with this though, just try tightening up the cover bolts first ... that may be all it needs. enjoy, Slapper

anyone know how to get in touch with ROL-110 (Scott) ? He's left a message indcating he may have a head I can use for the 4A, but hasn't been on since a coupla days ago to see my reply or PM :P Car has to be back on the road this weekend - if I can't get in touch with him it's off to the wrecker today and $200 falls mysteriously from my wallet :P He lives up in Blackwood and I'll be up there this evening - damn it, why are things always so urgent? :y: cheers, Slapper

well that sucks :P AE71 - daily driver .. so I need to get it going again ... or, perhaps, an enforced holiday! no - that wouldn't work, who'd pay the bills? oh well Slapper

the 4AC has spat a head (water dribbling into number 3 exhaust port). After removing the head, I can't see the hole so I assume a water gallery has corroded through and broken into the exhaust port - I further assume that there's no way of repairing this as it's internal. So ... Anybody know anywhere in Adelaide that I can get a secondhand or recond head for a 4AC without too much hassle? bugger, Slapper

aaaaah - to paint or not to paint? When all is said and done, it's not a foregone conclusion in either direction. An intercooler cools the air inside it by allowing it to heat the metal as it passes through. Passing heat to the metal cools the intake air. To be effective, the intercooler (or radiator - they both work the same, except that it's water, not air, being cooled) has to transfer that heat to the outside air (or water in as water to air cooler) ... it does this wherever the coolant (air in air-to-air, water in air-to-water) comes into contact with the "hot" surface. The purpose of all those fins is to maximise the surface area of "hot" intercooler to "cool" air. When you paint the cooling surface, it is the paint that is now in contact with the cooling air - ie. it can act as an insulator (blanket) if its thermal transfer properties are not that good. You also need to make sure it doesn't obstruct the gaps between the fins - this would decrease the available surface for heat exchanging. However ... you'd have to be pretty heavy-handed with the paint to do this I would've thought. Painting heat exchangers is always going to be a compromise ... it may provide a protective coating, or some stealth benefits, or it might just look better - but probably at some cost to the thermal conductivity of the surface and, therefore, its effectiveness as a heat exchanger. Weigh up the benefits, make your decision. Oooh - a blanket is an insulator ... no two ways about it! The reason we don't use them to keep us cool during hot weather is not because it wouldn't work, but because we need to cool below our body temperature - and merely insulating ourself from hotter air around us is not going to do that - we need (as you pointed out) the extra (and more effective) cooling that eva[porating perspiration gives us. Take two cold cans of drink ... wrap one in a blanket and plnok them both outside on a hot day ... see which one stays cold longer. Oh wait ... I've just invented the esky!! :P By crikey I'm funny! Shite ... back to work now, Slapper

absolutely ... not my real hair though! why ... what're you trying to say? :P I'm gooooorgeous. Slapper

Why is it so? Black absorbs radiant heat ... the heat exchange we are talking about with radiators and intercoolers is convection/conduction. So long as the paint conducts heat well enough, the extra ability to absorb radiant heat won't matter enough to worry about. Of course, if it's sitting out in the sun, radiant heat absorption may well be something to worry about. A blanket/jacket acts as an insulator - resisting the conduction of heat from the hot side to the (relatively) cold side). ie. it acts to keep heat where it is. When ambient temperatures are lower than your own body heat (eg. in cold weather), it'll keep your body heat on your side of the blanket. If ambient temperature is hotter than your body (eg. hot weather, or if you're a 'cking snowman), it'll act to keep the heat outside the blanket from getting in ... :) Slapper