philthy30

For a couple years i have been running a 2 inch exhaust system one louvered bullet or hotdog for you Aussies and another perforated bullet at the rear with a big dump tip welded on the end of that. Sounded great and was not too loud. I build exhausts for a living and i am not a fan of the big chrome dumpy mufflers. In my experience it is very hard to get them sounding nice but then again it depends what your opinion of sounding good is. Cheers Phil

Just a good mate of mine, he just works out of his garage at home he whipped it up in about an hour, looks overrated. Cheers mate I will definately keep an eye out for them. I have got a sound knowledge of most of the other stuff but the technical side of suspension still puzzles me haha.

Awesome info. Cheers robj might have to try out a couple ideas. I was actually toying with the idea of putting a panhard rod in as I have a spare one lying around. The diff has never sat in the center of my 30 and I have never figured out why? maybe it was in a bit of a crash earlier in its life. Cheers Phil

So what do you think I should do with the rear springs ? Should i get them stiffened up and run some anti-tramp bars or just get them reset to get rid of the blocks and and keep them factory stiffness ? I am running reasonably (probably too heavy) springs in the front.

Yea I will make some up once i have had the leaves reset properly. I think it will be needing them

Just finished putting my recovered dash top in and decided to have a wee update. Have sorted out everything apart from the fuel system and rear brake mounting and a driveshaft. I managed to find a Mitsubishi RVR 1 inch bore master cylinder and it bolted straight up to the original brake booster with no mods. Got the Hilux diff shortened and it's all fitted up now, still with the lowering blocks until I find some spare cash to get the rear leaves done properly. My throttle body adapter is just at the engineers getting planed down as the heat from welding it warped it a wee bit so should have that back on next week and I can finish off all the engine work. Also fitted up a new 14 inch electric fan. The fuel tank is getting built this week with a Walbro 500hp in-tank pump. Not far to go now am looking forward to getting it started and taking it for a spin. Cheers, Phil

I just wish they were all mine. A bit of NZ style there for you.

I had a mate that put some silver mesh in the grille i actually liked it and I'm not usually into things like that but each to their own i suppose.

it was just my run around for a couple months couldn't drive it any further than about 30km as it had a huge overheating issue blown headgasket. Kept driving it hard though and stole the eagers off it and sold it for what i paid for it haha. Anyway sorry Finn.KE30 for getting off topic heres some more black rollas.

Hey guys, I am looking for some information or previous member experiences with KE30 swaybars as I have recently fitted a 3SGE beams into my corolla and the original one does not fit as it doesn't clear the front of the sump. Is there any suitable replacements or any others that would fit ? Or is it easier for me to just get one made ? Cheers Phil

Yeah you've got to love trademe. Winners everywhere.

They were highly polished up 13x7, 0 offset performance wheels spitfire lookalikes i think. Stuck out of the gaurds way too far with the eagers on them though And also on my old KE70. Hideous car but overrated wheels haha.

Here's mine matte black before i stripped it

okay so I thought I would do a wee bit of research. Apparently you can unbolt the shifter off the back of the 6 speed ( J160 or AZ6 ) and turn it around to the forward position which is 2 inches further forward. This is still possibly not quite enough to clear the handbrake though ? Apparently The AZ6 is fitted to the SXE10, the S15, the RX8 and the MX5 Miata. You learn something everyday aye ? The olds have an RX8 with the 6 speed, it has an extremely short shift from factory and it is a bloody nice box to drive with. Anyway I hope this helps. Phil.

No problems. Yeah to be honest I never looked into moving the shifter but I am sure there is a way of doing it. I just figured that it was easier to fit the W57. The 6 speed would be nice tho.

I'm just about finished my conversion in my KE30. I found that the 6 speed is an extremely long gearbox and the shifter would've been where my handbrake is so I'm using a W57 with a modified bellhousing. Have a look at the link below any other questions just ask away.

WGMG That I have been putting up with Internet Explorer for so long and have just downloaded Firefox. Why didn't I listen to all you guys and do this earlier ???

After all this effort of fitting a foot pump you could have saved yourself a whole lot of time and effort by just fitting a lift pump. Just my 2 cents.

Hey, I know its been a while since the last update but the progress is still happening albeit very slowly. Pretty much got the engine and gearbox sorted now just got to weld together my ITB manifold and get the fuel tank and fuel system sorted and it (hopefully) should be a runner. I got all the front suspension setup sorted after a bit of clever machining of the T3 adjustable camber tops. I had a custom 57mm core radiator made in Christchurch, it cost me a overrated but fits properly and looks pretty good. Also bought a set of Konig Rewinds 15x7 fitted with 195/50R15 Bridgestone RE11. The diff is away at the engineers at the moment being shortened and i should have it back next week to fit the U13 Bluebird rear brakes to it. Scored myself some Racetech 100 seats for $200 with the brackets, so i fitted them in on some modified Mini seat mounts i bought off trademe and also fitted the carpet and lower part of the dash. The top peice of the dash is being recovered as we speak. The interior will eventually see a re-trim but at this stage it looks semi alright and will do until the cars properly on the road. Enjoy, Phil.

+1 The power difference between the 2.4 turbo and the 3.0 turbo is incredible Just make sure the radiators not blocked and its running nice clean new antifreeze.

From memory when i fitted mine there was a spot directly below the lock at the bottom of the door where theres a decent flat bit of steel to mount the actuator too. They work really well.

2.6 Litres of 75W-85 is what most of the websites say http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/valv_auMS/default.asp Phil.

If you have the map sensor engine then yes i beleive you will be able to run the ITB's. Although i'm not too sure how the car will run as the original computer will rely on map sensor readings to adjust air/fuel. In my experience with the ITB's the poor amount of vacuum the engine makes is pretty hopeless for anything let alone your brake booster. I have a mate that has just done this setup with a Link G4 computer and it reads pretty much no vacuum at idle.

RE001's are an excellent tyre thats what i would be going with but maybe I'm a bit biased as i work in a bridgestone store haha. But seriously they are a really good all round tyre. Grip like shit to a blanket.

I had my ke30 sodablasted its definately worth the extra. Apparently they can sit for a few days without being primered as the soda leaves a residue. Saying that i would still primer it asap. It works really well but the cleanup afterwards isnt to much fun.