philthy30

thanks for all the comments. yea i like to be a bit different but its proving to be a costly exercise. Have been pretty slack at getting on here but i got myself a gearbox from down in dunedin last friday W57 finally. Bolted it up to the motor along with my brandnew solid flywheel and found that the existing clutch plate even fitted the gearbox input shaft. Score. To be quite honest its like this motor is made for the 30 the only modifying to be dones is the mounts on the crossmember I'm even using the original mounts on the motor. The gearbox lines up with the existing hole in the floor which i was stoked about. Just waiting on my bellhousing to be modified as the starter is on the wrong side and have to make up some plate for the mounts and with the engine sitting in place weld them to the crossmember. Got my 4k on trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=243213971 just trying to sell that off so i can afford to go buy myself that mighty expensive link. Also trying to sort out a lsd diff head for my hilux housing and the brakes to go on it. Big project but it should be good fun. I'm aiming for about 250hp at the wheels but it will propably be more like 200. Sorry i don't have any fresh pics at the moment but i will try and get it out this weekend and take some but it will more likely be next weekend before i get the bellhousing back. Phil.

choice 1 would look bloody good

+1

haha yea they wont be staying i work in an exhaust shop so I'm going to build up sum custom stainless ones

sat the motor in today just to see what i had to do with the crossmember etc it all ligns up overrated just have to cut the existing mounts of the cross member and use the mounts that are on the engine. The only problem i have at this stage is the swaybar is to close to the sump so will either have to find a different swaybar or maybe get one made. Just sorted out a bellhousing tonight its a 1S bellhousing and i am now going to use a W57 gearbox as apparently the ratios work better with the beams.

thought i better put a photo up of the car

well i have bit the bullet and bought myself a 3sge beams to drop into my ke30 that i rebuilt from the ground up last year so i will try keep you guys updated on what I'm doing. Motor : 3sge beams Gearbox: W55 with 2c bellhousing Intake : Blacktop quad throttle bodies Engine management : Link G4 storm Diff : Undecided ?

easiest way to remove window winder clips is get a rag and run it behind the winder and it pulls the clip out

i bought a roll of the chrome/plastic insert from rare spares here in nz its bloody cheap but you need the proper tool to fit it any window fitting place will have the correct tool.

sounds like your going to have to go to the mechanics or local brake shop and get them to bend up and flare a new piece of steel brake tubing reasonably cheap to do you could even take it off yourself and take it to them and get them to replicate the pipe. you will then need to re-fit it and completely bleed the brakes againas air will have entered the system.

bumpstops can be cut haha I'm not usually a fan of flares but these look bloody good especially if they stay black

4 Colour then 4 clear

your a champion mate this has been pissing me off for ages in my 30 i think Q-bond would work well it seems to be able to do anything

haha i like your style :hmm:

yea i built myself a 1.75 system when i had the standard carby but after puttin my sidies on it and working the motor it seems to be choking it a bit might build me a mandrel 2 inch system ad try that. oh the joys of working at an exhaust shop :hmm:

philthy30 real name = Phil nickname = santa south island new zealand based metallic green ke30 full ground up rebuild.

yea i fully agree with the above standard hubcaps and whitewalls always look a treat

hey i had ram tubes and socks on mine was bloody loud but i put a set of k&n filters on it and they shut it up a wee bit i think the only true way of shutting them up is building an enclosure but who would want to get rid of that beautiful sound haha filters like this one below just over 44mm high

ive seen cheap as pads wear out in less than 3 months and if your slides are siezed it could just be wearing out 1 of the pads as above

yea but if theres another 1 down the road with original motor what one would you buy ?

but if you can show the buyers a list of receipts for a rebuilt engine it is a great selling point. REBUILD IT. just my 2 cents

pretty easy, undo hub nut, undo hub from strut pull driveshaft out, cut shagged boot off, knock cv off slip new boot on and fill it up with grease and knock c.v back on. filthy messy job i personally wear rubber gloves when doing it. i still believe its easier and less messy to go buy a rwd :)

haha propably all up cost me about 1300 but i rebuilt the carbys. Got a different filter setup on it now the socks werent sucking enought air cause they were pressed up against the strut tower, got some nice K&N's on it now

i presume youre talking about the sidedraft manifolds ? they seem to be a well made manifold, bloody expensive setup but makes it go like a cut cat

iv never been a fan of front mounted fans they seem to block too much airflow. I would personally mount the fan on the other side and make sure its turned off when ur driving on the open road and turned on around town