4age Fwd To Rwd (20v Focussed)

[tbo92]

Hi Guys - i have decided on 4AGE to the KE55 - but

 

is getting hard to find good cond RWD 4AGE motor's now.

 

How hard is it to make a FWD 4AGE into a RWD?!

 

i realise mounts need changing etc.. but what else??!

 

can it be done and is it cheaper / easier? (lol!)

 

 

OR if not, does anyone know where i can get my hands on a RWD 4AGE 20v? (black top would be prefered!)

 

Thanks heaps Guys and Gals!

[Sam_Q]

Hi Guys - i have decided on 4AGE to the KE55 - but

 

is getting hard to find good cond RWD 4AGE motor's now.

 

How hard is it to make a FWD 4AGE into a RWD?!

 

i realise mounts need changing etc.. but what else??!

 

can it be done and is it cheaper / easier? (lol!)

 

 

OR if not, does anyone know where i can get my hands on a RWD 4AGE 20v? (black top would be prefered!)

 

Thanks heaps Guys and Gals!

 

converting a 16v to rwd drive is pretty easy; chop and swap the inlet for the manifold, push a spigot bearing into the crank and bolt the rest of the parts on.

 

As for the 20v thats much more involved, I can supply you with the parts to convert the cooling system to RWD. I suggest you get a silvertop though as the price difference to the blacktop is usually massive but the power difference is quite minimal indeed.

[tbo92]

converting a 16v to rwd drive is pretty easy; chop and swap the inlet for the manifold, push a spigot bearing into the crank and bolt the rest of the parts on.

 

As for the 20v thats much more involved, I can supply you with the parts to convert the cooling system to RWD. I suggest you get a silvertop though as the price difference to the blacktop is usually massive but the power difference is quite minimal indeed.

 

HMmm.....

 

the gain from a 20v is worth it thou yet?

 

what are the cooling system mods that need to be done??

 

could you be a little more specific? pics perhaps?? :P hehe

 

Thanks for your imput champ

[Sam_Q]

unfinished website:

 

s-86.com

 

almost all of it is bolt on, you do need to glue/weld a part to the water pump if you want don't want an external thermostat, if you do its too easy.

 

 

now of course it varies heaps but i have seen blacktops go for double that silvertops go for. For that extra money you could get a set of cams and I know which one would be doing the ass kicking then.

 

I guess if you buy a set of trumpets, run some socks without any airbox and use an aftermarket ecu then its pretty much a bolt together job.

Edited January 30, 2010 by Sam_Q

[tbo92]

unfinished website:

 

http://web.aanet.com.au/project-q/

 

almost all of it is bolt on, you do need to glue/weld a part to the water pump if you want don't want an external thermostat, if you do its too easy.

 

 

now of course it varies heaps but i have seen blacktops go for double that silvertops go for. For that extra money you could get a set of cams and I know which one would be doing the ass kicking then.

 

I guess if you buy a set of trumpets, run some socks without any airbox and use an aftermarket ecu then its pretty much a bolt together job.

Did i mention that i love you?

 

are you able to explain to me, what actually needs to be done, to convert fwd 4age to a rwd 4age? this will give me a better understanding of what is needed.

 

and believe me when i say, you are the guy i will be buying the parts that i need from!

[LukeAE71]

Check out the 20 Valve into xxx thread at the top of Engine Conversions section.

 

This shows you alot of what you need relating to cooling etc.

 

I can vouch for Sam Q he makes good parts. He made mine for me. For the front pipe fitting can I recommend a Yager thermostat fitting?? It requires no mods to your original water pump set-up and is fuss free. You just need to find some alternative radiator hoses. You will need the rear and side block off plate from Sam Q if you are going 20 Valve.

 

I have almost finished this conversion so can provide tips by PM also.

 

LittleRedSpirit on here has an awesome build thread which covers a lot of the issues you may face along the way. I have pm's him also with questions here and there and he is always helpful. Hope you don't mind me offering your help Matt.

[Sam_Q]

Did i mention that i love you?

 

are you able to explain to me, what actually needs to be done, to convert fwd 4age to a rwd 4age? this will give me a better understanding of what is needed.

 

and believe me when i say, you are the guy i will be buying the parts that i need from!

 

well if you buy parts from me on not I will still do my best to help you out, now which one did you want help specifically with the 16v or the 20v and what parts?

 

 

thanks Luke, I also like the look of the yager kit, I do wonder what effect not having a bypass would have though.

[tbo92]

well if you buy parts from me on not I will still do my best to help you out, now which one did you want help specifically with the 16v or the 20v and what parts?

 

 

thanks Luke, I also like the look of the yager kit, I do wonder what effect not having a bypass would have though.

 

The 20v for sure.

 

it is always a pleasure getting help from people who are willing to help!

[LukeAE71]

well if you buy parts from me on not I will still do my best to help you out, now which one did you want help specifically with the 16v or the 20v and what parts?

 

 

thanks Luke, I also like the look of the yager kit, I do wonder what effect not having a bypass would have though.

 

I have not yet run this yager kit, next week it will be running so I will let you know what I think of it. I was sceptical in the beginning but others have been running this set up for some time without issue so I guess it must be fine.

 

I will post up my observations of it. :P

[Sam_Q]

well you could drill a 3mm or so hole through it, that will get you that tiny bit of flow enough to probably avoid hotspots

[LittleRedSpirit]

well you could drill a 3mm or so hole through it, that will get you that tiny bit of flow enough to probably avoid hotspots

 

I've used the Yager fitting for about a year, maybe more, Id have to check my thread for how long exactly.

 

I considered drilling a hole in the thermostat, but I don't think there's much need. The thermostat heats up quicker being stuck to the head, than if it were remote with a bypass.

 

Mine would open and close two or three times in the first five minutes of driving, then stay open. Temperatures were reasonably consistent. I used a 65 degree thermostat which gives you a much longer period of open thermostat once warm before the thermostat wants to cycle. According to my very accurate temperature measurements, I recorded more stable engine temps in general, compared to a remote thermostat. With my remote thermostat setup I observed constant swings of temperature as measured by the ecu of around 20 degrees centigrade. This was reduced to less frequent intervals and a 10 degree Centigrade swing with the lower temperature thermostat and Yager fitting.

 

I wouldnt build a 20v in rwd without one.

[Sam_Q]

very interesting findings, good to hear numbers put to what you where telling me. I can't see hotspot building up in just a few minutes

[LittleRedSpirit]

very interesting findings, good to hear numbers put to what you where telling me. I can't see hotspot building up in just a few minutes

 

 

Yeah its no big deal.

 

I'm going to the mechanics today to drop off some bits for my motor, ill take photos of the water kit and hose arrangement I have if anyone wants to see them.

[LukeAE71]

I trial fitted my Yager fitting last night to a Silvertop 20V 4AGE.

 

On a Silvertop it did not require any modification to the quads to fit up, however it does require:

 

- significant grinding of the alternator adjuster strap as there is no way it will clear it even without a hose on it.

- removal and redesign of the fuel return hose and vacuum arrangement underneath the quads.

 

So far for ease of fitment and use I am giving it a 7/10.

 

I thought I would point this out as on the blacktop I think Matt you had to grind some off the quads also. Silvertop does not appear to need this, or maybe they have refined their design a little as it does have a small taper at the top to accommodate the quads.

[LittleRedSpirit]

I trial fitted my Yager fitting last night to a Silvertop 20V 4AGE.

 

On a Silvertop it did not require any modification to the quads to fit up, however it does require:

 

- significant grinding of the alternator adjuster strap as there is no way it will clear it even without a hose on it.

- removal and redesign of the fuel return hose and vacuum arrangement underneath the quads.

 

So far for ease of fitment and use I am giving it a 7/10.

 

I thought I would point this out as on the blacktop I think Matt you had to grind some off the quads also. Silvertop does not appear to need this, or maybe they have refined their design a little as it does have a small taper at the top to accommodate the quads.

 

 

You'd have to be crazy to grind anything off the quads. No way did I do that.

 

I just filed the yager fitting off at the sides to clear the quads, which was just kind of smoothing one edge of it around where a stud mounts. To fit it I had to remove this large steel array of vaccum and fuel return lines under the quads. I ran the fuel return in efi hose tucked up under the throttles, and the vacuum port was just for the brake booster and there is two of them, so it was deleted with a bolt and sealing washer.