brendan Posted May 22, 2009 Report Posted May 22, 2009 (edited) hi i have purchase a redline manifold for twin sidedrafts and when i went to put it on it doesnt fit with the exaust manifold. I'm not really worried about it but when i go to get extractors it looks like the redline manifold is to thick. Has anybody had any problems getting extractors made to fit with the redline manifold? i remember a friend a while back told me to pull the studs out of the head when fitting sidedrafts?why is that? all help will be very much appreciated cheers! brendan and does anyone have the specs for twin sidedrafts to tune them chokes etc etc Edited May 22, 2009 by brendan Quote
corollaart Posted May 22, 2009 Report Posted May 22, 2009 Hi yes a lot of after market manifolds will not fit with stock manifolds,just how it is . Well if your going to spend a few dollars putting twin side draughts on it you might as well keep going and put extractors and two inch system on it. Even with extractors the inlet manifold may still be to thick to match up evenly in that case you have to weld some cut in half sping washers. On to your extactors so that when you tighten them up every think pulls in EVENLY. This is what i have done seems to work ok , as for removeing studs not sure why you do that. The studs just make it easer to locate the manifolds when mounting them up. cheers rob Quote
brendan Posted May 22, 2009 Author Report Posted May 22, 2009 ahk thanks alot for your help i would also appreciate everyones opinion Quote
kangaroosa Posted May 22, 2009 Report Posted May 22, 2009 I took my intake manifold to a head reconditioner and had him machine about 1.5mm off the face of the manifold to match the same thickness as the extractors. Quote
bLinded_ Posted May 22, 2009 Report Posted May 22, 2009 Had the same problem with my twin manifold and extractors. Flange was thicker on the intake so I machined it down where the studs came through to the same thickness as the exhaust flange. Manifold was a Redline one as well, extractors unknown. IIRC my idle jets are 45 Air jets: 150 Mains: 135 Chokes: 36mm This is for a mild 5K though. Unless you have prior experience with side draughts (twin), you will need someone to correctly set them up for you, which will be little to no change from $1k. Quote
philbey Posted May 22, 2009 Report Posted May 22, 2009 Rather than weld washers or go see the machinist, I just filed down the back of the manifold ears (not the face that bolts to the head) Piece of piss to do, only a couple of the ears were too thick and because its nice soft Aluminium, you should be able to do it in about half an hour. Quote
brendan Posted May 22, 2009 Author Report Posted May 22, 2009 my 5k had a cam and a little head workdoes your motor idle and do everything well cause if so ill set them to those specs Quote
bLinded_ Posted May 22, 2009 Report Posted May 22, 2009 Rather than weld washers or go see the machinist, I just filed down the back of the manifold ears (not the face that bolts to the head) Piece of piss to do, only a couple of the ears were too thick and because its nice soft Aluminium, you should be able to do it in about half an hour. That is exactly what I did, though worded a thousand times better. OP, Mine idles fine, starts first go, even in this colder weather (no choke) and loves to rev. Though each engine is going to be different and depending on your carbs, there will be more work. The model of Dellortos I have are a fixed air bleed size, which were too large for a 1.5 (came from a 2L Alfa). The Tuner needed to machine and press in some tiny nylon reducers to correct this, which cost time and money. DCOE's though from what I can gather are part of the main jet assembly and are easy to change around. Not really an expert on them, hence why I got them set up by someone who knows more about it than me. I say good luck if you intend of doing it yourself, as it will be a prick of a job for the everyday backyarder. :fuzz: But, when they are on, it is wellllllll worth it. Induction :D Quote
brendan Posted May 22, 2009 Author Report Posted May 22, 2009 the bloke i bought the webbers off is asking me do i want ball and jiont set up or cable ? what do i ask for Quote
bLinded_ Posted May 22, 2009 Report Posted May 22, 2009 Umm no idea what he means by ball and joint, maybe mechanical? Id say cable would be the weapon of choice, as the standard KE setup is a cable throttle. As long as there is a way to balance the carbies then you should be okay. I use a modified redline linkage kit on mine. Quote
philbey Posted May 23, 2009 Report Posted May 23, 2009 Cable. I reckon the Ball and Joint method he's talking about will be like the Datsuns had with a yoke mounted to the firewall. Quote
bLinded_ Posted May 23, 2009 Report Posted May 23, 2009 Yeah that's what I was guessing too as my 32/36 had that sort of linkage as it was originally from a 1600. I always knew it as a mechanical linkage, as opposed to a cable pull. Probably have the wrong term for it though. Quote
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