rob83ke70 Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 they give you those angle brackets with the swaybar? what about mounting the swaybar further towards the rear of the car, and putting the swaybar link rods through a hole in the centre of the A frame of the control arm? or what about putting the brackets on the rear side of the a frame control arm and running the swaybar over the top of the control arm to the link rods at the rear side? I'm still a little incredulous that whiteline would provide something that would foul brake components and cause a safety issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 Wouldn't the steering arm be in the wrong place if you were to mount the caliper at the rear? The only time I've had problems is cranking in full lock. I wound out the steering lock bolts a bit and that helped. The car still has plenty enough steering lock. The first set of Yoky A539 tyres I wore out had pretty even tyre wear. I got 40 thousand kays out of them. I did run 44 psi pressure in the front which makes the tyres wear more evenly, plus I rotated the tyres every 10 thousand kays or so. The A539's do have extremely chunky outer tread blocks though, which stops them self getting ripped up like most other tyres. I did live on Mt Nebo for 6 months, and the tyres got a massive workout. I was always pushing the limits of adhesion hunting down motorbikes. If your car is super low the roll centers will be screwed up, which makes the car want to roll moreso than if the rideheight was higher. Also once the lower arms get around level or lower the camber wants to start becoming more positive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob83ke70 Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 If I take leaves out of the front and put a coilover setup on the standard ke11 strut, and run a spring rate comparable to a ke20 standard spring, install the swaybar and put a strut brace on the car, there shouldn't be any dramas? small diameter coilovers would even give me room for adjustable strut tops as well, so I can adjust my camber. Where is the castor adjustment on a ke1x? (my dumb question of the day there) Robert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 (edited) they give you those angle brackets with the swaybar? what about mounting the swaybar further towards the rear of the car, and putting the swaybar link rods through a hole in the centre of the A frame of the control arm? or what about putting the brackets on the rear side of the a frame control arm and running the swaybar over the top of the control arm to the link rods at the rear side? No idea. Maybe you could buy a swaybar kit and try it for yourself. I agree, the swaybar kits aren't ideal, but I would never drive a ke1x without one. Where is the castor adjustment on a ke1x? (my dumb question of the day there) :bash: there is no adjustment. It isn't a dumb question at all. The only dumb questions are the unasked ones. :y: Edited June 7, 2009 by Felix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob83ke70 Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 I did notice the lack of radius rods... so the only factory adjustable angle is toe. great! If I was to get adjustable strut tops made and mount them with small diameter coilovers I could probably mount the top of the strut further towards the rear of the vehicle, thus giving an increase of positive castor. What are the normal wheel alignment angles of a stock ke10, and what do you run? I'd imagine if the vehicle was lowered you would decrease the camber somewhat. I'm not planning on having my ke11 lowered (or not much lower than stock) I think I'd rather put some sort of adjustment in. I remember reading something a few years back about Stewart Ford making adjustable strut tops for a ke10... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 My car has pretty much neutral camber. Toe-in I run around 3mm. I do wheel alignments myself with the help of the missus and a tape measure. I've thought about running coil-overs and adjustable strut tops but never worried to much about it. Those mods cost money. I might do something like that later on, during the cars next rebuild. I have a few ideas on how to gain castor and camber out of the front with very little work. I'll leave it to others though to see if they can work it out. :bash: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattress Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 Rob, you keep asking about the safety issue of the swaybar hitting the brake caliper. My only guess is that KE1X's generally had front drums or the original calipers were smaller. Thus on an unmodified vehicle the swaybar wouldn't hit the caliper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 (edited) mattress, I think you've hit the nail on the head. 90% (or more) of ke1x's would have had drum brakes from the factory, and they probably used a drum brake car when they designed the kits. The only ke1x cars that came with discs were the S and SL models. My ke15 was a non-SL model and was fitted with drums. To add, I think with a little trimming of the swaybar ends and a little caliper grinding, contact would be a non-issue. Edited June 7, 2009 by Felix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phife Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Related post on the Whiteline swaybar http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=26302 As mentioned in the previous link, the problem is with the later model calipers hitting the swaybar. Obviously the swaybar wasn't designed with this modification in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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