rob83ke70

well..... not having had any experience with those engines other than seeing the numbers on forums, I can only offer limited advice. If the 2c was an option, in theory, the 3c should be able to bolt in. I'd be selecting engines based around what is easiest and cheapest to get parts, and what is easiest to get registered and keep registered. in my experience, diesels aren't much fun without a turbocharger. so if you were going to go down the path of a diesel, i'd really try to put the turbocharged one in!! Have Fun!! Robert.

so after quickly googling this topic, the results were inconclusive.... some people reckoned the engine would explode due to oily vapors in the crankcase igniting, some people reckoned it would be fine, and someone even suggested filming and should it blow up then we will prove why you shouldn't weld a sump on an engine for once and all. the problem: the driver of the car ran over a truck tailshaft at speed, ripping a hole in the lower sump (steel) and some other damage underneath. no oil in engine, and the driver was not able to pull over straight away, so unsure if engine damage has occurred. obviously oil is needed in the engine to run it in order to work out whether damage has occurred or not. with big hole in the sump, this is a problem. it is a bit of bother to remove the sump, repair and refit it, considering that a new sump is on the way. so..... the solution: weld the sump while still on the car. I did so little bits at a time, and cooled it with a spray bottle of water after welding each little bit, trying not to catch anything on fire or let it get too hot. it was a bit ugly, but i didn't blow myself up and it does hold oil. the oil was drained from the sump, and the surrrounding area was cleaned of oil prior to commencing welding. also the battery was disconnected in order not to fry any ecus. turns out the engine is still ok! hope this was good for a chuckle! the hole in the sump: the repaired sump: Robert.

order one for a ke70 - as far as i know, only the bosch distributor (which you appear to have) came in the ke70. I've never seen (an original fitment) nippondenso distributor in a ke70. if the bosch book isn't helpful, use the champion book. I can't imagine why bosch wouldn't have the right numbers in their book considering they make the distributor! Robert.

my float bowl angle is adjustable. I think there was some minor modification involved to make them adjustable, something like swapping a piece back to front or losing a little locator tab or something. either buy the weber manifold and put webers on it, or buy the su manifold and put su carburettors on it.... Robert.

having never had a look under a ke36 before, and having not actually gotten my hands on the new car yet, I don't know what it all looks like under the rear, other than it having the jap diff. so the dumb question: will a ke55 rear swaybar fit under a ke36 panelvan? I was going to put the borgwarner housing with the swaybar mounts in the ke36 as well to save me some bother welding things... the (welded) diff in the ke36 is going to find a home in the khanacross car :yes: Robert.

silverra23 - so you have to fit corolla ball joints into sigma lca's to get the corolla steering arms to fit? and ke30 4 350 - I'm assuming the question you wanted to know was why rose joints are illegal. It is a registration fail to have parts of your suspension and steering "damaged, modified, or repaired with heat" and rose joints are pretty obvious when you have a look under the car.....

what exactly has to get modified to fit the sigma arms and corolla steering arms together? I'm looking at doing this to the khanacross car....

if sigma control arms only give ke30 1 degree negative then I'm doing that :D other than that, I'm saving money and buying parts until it does what I want it to do. might take a while though.... Robert.

when I decide on what diff ratio I want I'll probably weld a centre up. would the rear swaybar help or hinder it with a locked diff?

not sure about the diff yet, I'm considering either a phantom grip or maybe *maybe* welding it. when we were running the ke55 it had an open centre diff and both swaybars, and it did have some issues spinning one wheel. Never tried it without the rear swaybar in a khanacross :(

so the bigger swaybar and rear swaybar will be an improvement for gravel handling?

I've got a ke30 which is going to be primarily driven on gravel, it currently has the small front swaybar and no rear swaybar, and I have a ke55 which is being pulled apart for the good bits to go into the ke30, and it has the bigger front swaybar and it has a rear swaybar. Is it worth swapping swaybar setups from one to the other? Robert.

from memory (I ran one of those for some time on a 4k with a huge cam) there is an idle adjustment on the secondary as well as the primary - have a look, it might be open too far. there is primary and secondary idle jets as well, one either side in a jet holder about halfway up the carburetor. I'd block all the vac ports and get it going then work out what you have and where you want it to go. I had mine idling very consistently at 800rpm with that carburetor, but it took some dramas to sort vacuum leaks out on the inlet manifold first. Robert.

i have a hydraulic clutch system where the pedal feels spongy, doesn't return fully all the time, and even stays depressed when you take your foot off. when the pedal stays depressed the clutch is not disengaged (ie it is connected to the engine). I cannot gain access to the slave cylinder as it is inside the bellhousing and not visible, however the fluid level is good, it doesn't appear to be leaking any fluid, there is no sign of any fluid at the master cylinder, and I have bled the system quite thoroughly. I'm seeking to diagnose whether this is the master or slave cylinder that is the issue - before I remove the gearbox or anything overly enthusiastic. I was wondering if anyone has put a pressure gauge on the clutch master cylinder in place of the slave cylinder, then applied pressure and checked to see if it held. While I was typing this, I've got to thinking - if the fluid level hasn't dropped in the reservoir, then it obviously isn't leaking externally, and if the slave cylinder had the problem, it would have to lose pressure externally. This would then imply that the fluid is leaking back to the reservoir from inside the master cylinder. Thoughts and ideas? Robert.

i'm reasonably convinced that its still electrical. it has a flat spot - not consistent with throttle angle, more consistent with load, and on the highway it sometimes cuts and dies for a few seconds before coming good again - usually when overtaking or driving up hills or both so you lose valuable momentum. I *think* there is a problem with either the signal going to the coil (or maybe timing advance?) or with the coil sending spark to the distributor. vac lines are all good - been over them a thousand times. Robert.

only two things you need to know: viscosity and quality rating... Viscosity aside, I'm stressing about putting the right quality rating oil in the right car - modern cars, ACEA ratings used. To other people either all oil is oil and is the same, or the viscosity is the only thing to worry about. 20 years ago did mechanics worry about using the right API classification for the right vehicle? surely this is a basic thing that car enthusiasts and mechanics *should* understand? Robert.

electronic ignition - gm specs for the geo metro are under 30k ohms per lead is good. as far as i know its a conventional dizzy with mech advance weights and a vac diaphragm. i smeared insulating compound around the base on the dust cover etc too. still has mad flat spot and i still don't know what it is. Robert.

it looked pretty clean and dry - the innards are covered with a plastic cap, and the rotor and high tension cap are new.... Robert.

after a mini spool for the bw68 fitted to the ke55 - can someone reccommend where to get one? the larger borgwarner diffs are easy to get bits for on the internet but the smaller bw68 barely gets mentioned. the disclaimer: going to be used for racing only not on the road lol Robert.

so frustrating not being able to see exactly where/what the problem is. When the lead went I could hear the spark and see a little bit of it, but now it does it when you drive the car (the original problem with the car actually) and the symptom appears the same (just not as bad or regular) Apparently champion leads are good - but the fella who told me that also told me a lot of bullshit too lol. Robert.

think they were eagles.... junk. the one I put on was an emo lead - it had FML written on it. I don't think that 3000 ohms is excessive for how long they were. I'll go over them again tomorrow. Robert.

My heap of junk suzuki appears to be losing spark to ground inside the distributor cap intermittantly. I think it has been doing this for some time, you drive it, and every so often it misses a beat, or has a "hiccup". It deteriorated badly on the weekend, and the problem was traced to an open circuit high tension lead. The high tension leads are less than 2 years and 20,000km old! Anyway, the rest of the leads appear ok with a resistance of 1.5k ohms to 3.0k ohms, and I have now replaced the lead with a bright red new one.... when the lead died, the spark for that cylinder was jumping to ground on the distributor body. I have replaced the distributor cap (twice now) and rotor, and the coil is maybe 30-40000 km old (brand new genuine part). the plugs are bp5es with a 0.8mm gap, brand new. The car still has its "hiccup" problem - I'm fairly sure the spark is jumping to ground inside the distributor cap - not as often as it used to, but still doing it. Any ideas as to why or how to fix it? body deadener on the distributor cap? silicone grease on the distributor cap? maybe I need to replace the plastic cover under the rotor button? it *looks* ok I think? Don't say buy a new car - I know its not a toyota but I've spent a bit of money and effort on it and want to keep it until I feel it doesn't owe me anything! Robert.

the big one on the bottom of the EGR modulator should go to the exhaust pipe. The exhaust pipe should pull a vacuum on it, and this affects the rate of EGR. one of the little pipes should be ported vacuum but only when it is warm (ie through a thermo vac switch), and the other actuates the EGR valve. Robert.

new commodore (veII) can run it - probably means its going to appear everywhere... Robert.

there has to be too much current through the points. maybe draw the circuit on a piece of paper - looking at what you have wired up and have a good look at it. there has to be something wrong if it melts points. Robert.