rob83ke70

don't flog it and it should last a long time.... make sure its got oil, and drive gently. It will make horrible noises but should keep going. disclaimer: you could be really unlucky and something could actually break though contrary to all of my experiences! Robert.

might have a quick play with the radiator - water pump is brand new - its my pet dyna..... kind of in bits at the moment anyway, I'm deciding whether to get a radiator place to pull the radiator apart and clean the cores..... I've cleaned the radiator externally and straightened the fins which took at least 8 hours! it seemed to build a terrific amount of pressure up when it was running, and it would over pressurize and dribble all its coolant out of the overflow. I pulled it back apart and I'm not 100% convinced it was the head gasket now!! stupid cars!!

not a toyota corolla, but still a toyota: engine at operating temperature or maybe above, top radiator hose quite hot, bottom radiator hose cold or close to cold. bottom of radiator is also quite cold - engine seems to run hot.... could this indicate blocked cores internally in the radiator? Robert.

seriously, rear drums aren't that bad!! I wouldn't worry about it unless you were racing or putting serious km on the car! Robert.

rear seal isn't that bad to do, I'd also pop the extension housing off and seal with a new gasket or silicone. front seal I don't think was that bad to do either. then there is just the plates with the detents, and the selector gasket, which shouldn't be hard either. put a new o ring on your speedo drive too while you are there. Robert.

seriously, gearboxes aren't that hard, if it doesn't come apart, find out why, don't force it, and pay really good attention to where everything goes so you can reassemble it. don't put anything in backwards, and after putting each thing into it make sure its right and works correctly. take your time, don't rush, you'll get there. I haven't done a transmission rebuild for ages. I've done quite a few transaxles which are pretty easy, and a few subaru gearboxes which are interesting. can't wait till I get a k box pulled apart ;) Robert.

plan of action after consultation with the other half (who drives the ke55): Going to try and probably go with the DCD and a remote mounted airbox to get cold air. Going to redo the exhaust so its a little quieter as well. Going to install engine and good bits into the ke30, not going to stress about the cage, and we will use it as a daily driver as ke55 shell is too rusty and has a few too many hard k's on it... Scheduled to happen AFTER the toyota dyna is back in one piece and on the road again... Robert.

ke3x or ke5x should be the same. possibly ke7x as well but I'm not sure. Robert.

A little bit of background: I currently have a worked 4k in a ke55 (eventually going in a ke30 rally car) which has a 280/286 degree duration camshaft, has been balanced, had flywheel lightened to 5.6kg, regraphed electronic distributor, thermofan fitted, 10.7:1 static compression ratio, 4-2-1 extractors and heat shield, 2" exhaust 4.3 ratio diff, 195/60r14 road tyres OR 185/65r14 rally tyres, and a lynx manifold with twin 1.5" hs4 su carburetors with needles that the carburetor guy said would work well.... issues: does not idle consistently - does not return to idle consistently. Have spent unbelievable amount of hours syncing carburetors and fussing over things. seems to be reasonable at the moment, probably need to fuss over it some more... seems to be really REALLY fussy over vac leaks from throttle shafts, I sent them to be rebushed and the carburetor guy said they were nearly new and he put new butterflies in them instead (they were worn). Performance seems to be ok most of the time, it revs to 8000rpm, idles lumpy and doesn't do anything exciting below maybe 3000rpm give or take. It can seem a little boggy at wide open throttle with low revs (less than 3000rpm). Air filters vibrate and crack, filters don't last too long (rubber splits etc). The car runs twin pancake type paper air filters made by redline, it does a lot of dirt events so I'm reluctant to use foam filters.... I am considering twin velocity stacks and foam filters though - undecided. now for the recent developments: I have purchased a weber 32/36 DGV carburetor, and it came with two weber 28/36 DCD carburetors. I am putting the DGV onto a Toyota Dyna with a 4y 2.2lt engine, and picked that because it is common and you can buy an air plenum for a cold air induction system readily for this carburetor. Anyway, I now have TWO weber DCD's, and I was wondering (just a thought at this stage) about the possibility of putting one with an adaptor plate onto a 4k manifold and replacing the twin SU's with it. I've spent a lot of time effort and money on the SU's so as I said before, this is just a thought and it might not eventuate yet... The question is, will it be a performance improvement to go with the DCD? I know there are a few people here using DCD carburetors on 4k or 5k engines, and there are a few people with SU's. The SU's look much cooler, nothing beats the look of twin carburetors IMHO! However, I am considering this to increase reliability and possibly performance. From memory, the reasoning was that with the standard manifold and a DCD the air had a longer straighter shot at the inlet valve (after the initial turn at the base of the carburetor) whereas the lynx manifold (very very short thing!) had a nasty "kick" in the air path where it joined the inlet ports, which was too close to the valve for the air speed to recover... I'm after some opinions and thoughts on this! I'd love to get the car more reliable (less time playing with carburetors to make them work right!) and more consistent to drive, and a performance increase would be really really good too! Car currently uses 7.75 litres per 100km when driven on the highway too. Robert.

Younger brother's ae93 with 7afe and 5sp manual does 3000rpm approx at 100km/hr stock standard, no idea ratio of final drive, tyres are 185/60r14. Our ke55 with worked 4k, 4sp manual, 4.3 diff, and 195/60r14 tyres does approx 3900rpm at 100km/hr - worked out mathematically.... Robert.

I'm sure I've got a spare ke3x/ke5x item not doing anything. shouldn't be running red coolant in a ke corolla with an older style copper/brass radiator - should use green coolant. Robert.

it all depends on what you think sounding nice is..... and it seems like we go through this same conversation at least once a month with someone.... get a proper exhaust - one that makes your car go faster and sound nice, not loud..... Robert.

I think toyota plug are ngk plugs in a toyota box - although not 100% sure on this I don't work on heaps of toyota's these days.... bkr6eya11 maybe? check it with toyota or an ngk book. 6's are pretty cool as far as heat range of plugs go. Robert.

lol evan g I wish used car departments would understand that - going back a few jobs now, I found myself fitting a $150ish "universal" power aerial to a car to replace the oem power aerial that had broken, which was $300-400ish. it took me about 5 times as long and the result was by no means satisfactory.... would have been cheaper to buy the oem part!!! going back to the original issue - it can sound really sweet without having to be loud.... I'm putting the longest perforated tube resonator I can fit under mine and a 2" straight through perforated tube muffler with a 2" tip - it will be loud, but not too loud.... or so I'm hoping anyway! a big tip will always make it "boomy" and resonate too! Robert.

look up an oil manufacturer's lube guide online - or ring their technical department. They normally reccommend something common and cheap where possible, maybe asking the tech department "can I use <insert oil name here> in my car?" might be the go?

the second number is the more important one. As it is turbocharged and your pride and joy (or it should be!!!) I'd run a quality FULL synthetic engine oil - they'll just put up with so much more than a regular oil. I'd also run genuine Toyota filters too. I deal with castrol at work - its easiest to get (retail) in 10w60 or 0w40 in edge sport full synthetic. I'd be happy with either of those oils. Robert.

I've got too big of a rear muffler and tip and I'm going down the path of putting a more appropriate size muffler and some different bits in the exhaust to get rid of the loud drone and reverberation. I like 2" tips on corollas lol. Robert.

full synthetic 5w40 or 0w40 - castrol edge sport or shell helix ultra are a few brand names. don't have to run synthetic, but if it was mine I would be. Robert.

get the brakes fixed up properly.... any mechanic worth taking it to should be able to do it - might cost you though. handbrake cables can be made. wheel cylinders can be rebuilt or replaced, shoes can be replaced or relined. drums can be machined or replaced. its all possible. Robert.

I've got spare ke30 seat belts - not sure if they are the same though. Robert.

if it happened after it was pressure washed then you need to reverse anything that has been played with so it is all back to how it was, remove the spark plug leads and possibly plugs too, and dry everything out!!! Robert.

sounds like you have a problem. when you put your foot down to wide open throttle it should immediately pick up and smoothly, with no hesitation or jerking. I'd reccommend taking it to a mechanic.... going to go out on a limb and say if you don't know a motor mechanic then take it to a toyota dealer.... probably take a LOT of time of the diagnostics by having information and experience.... make sure the pod filter is clean too!! I'm sick of seeing cars with k&n filters and pod filters that don't get looked after or maintained! 90% of the time you'd be better off with a factory air cleaner setup anyway (cold air and serviced properly). Robert.

if its just got the two wires coming out of the distributor and its a pulse generator type of electronic signal, use an ignition module out of a TR or earlier magna.... if its a hall effect signal you may have to find something that was four cylinder and hall effect to swipe a module off. Robert.

don't stress too much about it, just be one of those annoying drivers that slows down to 70 or so then speeds back up to highway speed repeatedly..... thats what slow lanes are for lol. Robert.

magnatec 10w40 isn't a great idea - its a semi synthetic and uses long chain polymers to extend its high temp viscosity - these break down during the service life of the car - when you pull your oil out at 10,000km, send some away to be tested, it will probably be a 10w20 or 10w25 equivalent.... we use gtx 10w30 or magnatec 15w40 for most applications in our workshop, obviously if it needs something different we would put that in.... much better than my previous workshop - just put in whatever you feel like it needs!! Robert.