rob83ke70

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html some light reading about oils there.... you want something that is pretty straightforward (doesn't need heaps of additives to increase its hot temperature viscosity) if you are using a mineral based oil. 15w40 is probably the best grade. if you are using a proper synthetic, I can't see a drama with a 10w60. Again, personal opinion - its your car, you can really do what you like with it :) on a side note, people on here said to use a 20w50 in a 7a engine apparently this is what toyota use..... the toyota 7a workshop manual that I borrowed said to use 5w30, 10w30 or 15w40 depending upon ambient temperatures..... I put 15w40 in it to run it in, and 15w40 in it for the first two oil changes (at 5000km each) then I will switch to probably a 10w60 full synthetic. Robert.

not that smart - it was pretty apparent it was flat battery from the time I hit the key lol. $180 isn't too bad for a maintenance free genuine battery either, I recall a decent size decent brand non maintenance free battery being about $120 retail a few years back. Robert.

that sounds good felix :) Robert.

quoted $180 for a genuine battery, I'm not sure what they charged for diagnosis or anything like that, there wasn't much time clocked onto the RO anyway. Customer turned up with an aftermarket battery and installed it themselves anyway. Robert.

run it in on a simple, high quality but minimal additive 15w40 during break in and for maybe the first 10,000km (change the oil every 5000km). to break it in, start it up, bed the cam in if you have a new one (keep the revs above 2000rpm for 10 minutes or so?) check nothing is leaking, let it cool back down, check levels again, start it up, take it for a drive, start of gentle, and as the engine warms up give it more of a pizzling. Load the engine up in accelleration and decelleration, don't "lug" it too much, but definitely accelerate and decelerate a lot. Change its oil and filter. Run for 5000km, then change oil and filter, run for another 5000km, then change oil and filter. after you've run it for 10,000km, you can either keep using the mineral 15w40, or switch to a synthetic. I'd use a 10w60 synthetic, castrol edge sport, shell helix ultra, or maybe penrite sin, or something similar. Personal preference really. Every man and his dog has a different version of this. My former employer reckoned you should change the oil and filter after bedding in the camshaft as the anti scuff lubricant apparently eats piston rings.... but I've heard plenty of questionable things from him so take that with a grain of salt. Robert.

I had a car towed into work the other day, the job card read: "car does not start, makes funny noise - towed in"... I got all excited thinking maybe an engine catastrophe (its quiet and I'd love to get a major job to keep me going for a bit). flat battery!! the "funny noise" was the solenoid clicking in and out because there wasn't enough current available to keep it in the "on" position. Oh well, probably a better result for the customer lol. Robert.

only need three things to make it go, air/fuel mix, spark, and compression.... if you are POSITIVE the cam timing is spot on, and you have compression (measured with a gauge) then check that you have spark, check the ignition timing, then check whether you have fuel by putting a little bit down the carburettor throat. if you do all this and it doesn't start then you've made a mistake with one of the checks and need to start over again. Robert.

wouldn't stress too much about the drain in the block, run a hose in the cooling system and flush as much as you can out, doesn't matter that there is water still in the jackets for what you want to do. when you assemble it all, fill it with straight water, and drop it out a few times and refill it after you run it for a bit, until the water comes out clean. Then put a high quality coolant in and you are all set :abuse: I flushed the ae93 about 5 or 6 times, and I used red GM coolant..... I'm told the factory coolant was red, and well I kind of had some leftover GM stuff lying around lol... Robert.

+1 for the use of LPG - it is much much closer to what r12 is than r134a will be, and it also runs much lower pressures in the AC system which theoretically will make it last longer..... as far as going boom - you don't smoke in your car do you? lpg is easily detectable by its smell anyway. you are more likely to get a leak from the condensor or compressor in the engine bay than anything in the car. what happens if r134a leaks in your cabin and you smoke..... you inhale phosgene gas through the cigarette and die. If it was my car I'd put hychill/lpg in it. If it was a new car with an r134a system I'd use r134a. The trouble is its hard to find a place that will install hychill due to all the paranoia out there about it. Don't ever let ACA get a hold of something like this - I remember reading about how a fuel pump in the boot was a ticking petrol bomb in traffic or some such rubbish... Robert.

your hs2's were fitted to austin healey sprite mkII or similar... 948cc.... I would imagine your 1290cc engine might need a bit more fuel lol... Robert.

first, if it hasn't been that far since the mechanic tuned it up, take it back to him and get him to fix it as a "warranty" job. second, if the points have been replaced, was the cam in the distributor greased as required? the rubbing block has probably worn a bit and caused the points to close up, which alters the ignition timing and dwell (basically spark strength). This is a possible cause. You need to establish which cylinders are working and which are not. A cylinder needs only three things to work, air/fuel, spark, and compression. I'd check the spark first as air/fuel will affect all cylinders. If spark is ok, check the valve clearances, then check for air/fuel mix related problems. Don't guess at what might be wrong, test things in order to eliminate possibilities and diagnose the problem correctly. Robert.

knock sensor replaced, no more codes present, everything working as it should.

cooling fan problem: after removing the control relay and inspecting the control side of the circuit to find that it is working correctly, I tested the relay, found it was working correctly, and then re installed the relay, and now my fans are working correctly. conclusion: the relay was jammed in position completing the supply (controlled) circuit and when I "tested" it by actuating the control circuit several times and measuring the resistance of the supply (controlled) circuit, I must have freed it up. there are only two things that affect the control circuit for the cooling fan, the temperature switch (single wire on thermostat housing) and the a/c pressure switch. the switches are normally earthed, powering the control circuit which pulls the controlled circuit open, and when temperature or pressure is reached, the switch becomes open circuit, which then allows the normally closed cooling fan relay to power the controlled circuit and activate the cooling fans. should there be a break in a wire of the control circuit the fans will come on. I hope that makes sense.... much nicer to explain with a wiring diagram!! I have fault read it again as well, and the only code present is the knock sensor code. Robert.

not having a body electrical systems manual in front of me this is just speculation, but I'd say the third temperature sensor near the water pump is for the gauge. Robert.

fans running on: two things control the circuit for the fan relay, the water temp switch, which is a single wire sensor on the thermostat housing, and the ac pressure switch. I have a wiring diagram and workshop manual that toyota kindly lent me so I will get to the bottom of that tonight. ECT fault code: the coolant temp sensor for the ECU is the two wire NTC thermistor located on the thermostat housing. Again, I have wiring diagram and workshop manual so I will follow that up tonight as well. Knock sensor code: The sensor is physically busted. Part arrives tomorrow from Toyota. this would be a NIGHTMARE if I was still at ultratune trying to get to the bottom of this!!! Robert.

If I was a bit closer and had some time/money spare I'd definitely give you a hand :happy: - I'm a motor mechanic/automotive technician for Holden/Hyundai as my day job lol, I've owned my fair share of corollas, and I've worked on a LOT of different cars over the time I've been a mechanic, including spending 18 months in an aftermarket workshop, so a head gasket doesn't seem that scary to me.... I'm sure other people have a different perspective though lol. there are a few 7a builds floating around on the internet with lots of instructions/photos and from memory there was a crazy 4afe build somewhere as well... Robert.

fault read vehicle using a generic scan tool to find the following codes: coolant temperature signal engine knock sensor signal the fans run all the time with the key on, and the MIL illuminates after you start to drive the vehicle. The knock sensor is faulty (physical damage) and is not manufactured by an aftermarket supplier, TGP is $195 trade.... I've ordered the part. There appears to be three coolant temp sensors installed and connected on this vehicle, one at the back of the water pump (single wire), and another single wire sensor and a twin wire sensor on the thermostat housing near the gearbox. In the data list on the scan tool it displayed a seemingly correct engine coolant temperature parameter..... this is getting confusing. I'm guessing I have a problem with the sensor that the ECU uses, which is separate to the sensor for the gauge. If this is the case, why does the scan tool use the signal from the gauge in the data list? Can anyone shed some light on what sensor does what and why there are three of them? I've attempted to clear codes, the scan tool said to disconnect the battery for a minute, repco autotech said to disconnect the EFI relay for 30 seconds - I've tried both, and nothing has changed and the same codes are logged. I'm also getting atrocious fuel economy which would make sense too. I think I need a genuine toyota workshop manual which hopefully has a diagnostic procedure for "cooling fans continuously run with key on" and some good identification information as to what sensor goes with what... I might need to clear the codes with a toyota scan tool as well - I had this problem with an ultrascan scan tool on a mitsubishi UG nimbus - it wouldn't clear the codes and the vehicle remained in a limp mode - caused no end of problems sorting it out!! Robert.

exhaust probably has a tin heat shield loose.... either that or its a really shitty tinny muffler - I've had one of those too!! Reccommended fix, replicate the noise and find the faulty component then replace/repair as required.... if the pedal is stiff, check the operation of the brake booster and check you have good manifold vacuum from the engine... wouldn't hurt replace the brake fluid either if it looks old and scungy although that won't make a stiff pedal. Go and see your toyota dealer for the central locking switch.... probably not as bad as you'd think for a brand new switch that comes with warranty... Robert.

we have an ae93 (1.8lt manual power everything) with a little bit of panel damage, odd wheels, scary re tread tyres and a few major handling issues that we bought for too much on here.... some of the problems fixed up pretty easy, but I've just completed a full engine rebuild due to oil consumption - there would have been $1500 or more spent, with me doing all the labour bar the cylinder head reconditioning!! it doesn't take much for it to spiral out of control lol... I'd buy a VRS set, go see repco, they had a pile of discontinued ACL brand VRS sets for really cheap, then I'd pull the head off the car, take it to a machine shop and get them to recondition it, then reassemble it yourself, probably the best and cheapest way to do it..... if it isn't burning oil then your bores and block should be OK how it is and your head won't need too many major things doing to it (we needed guides and replacement valves and all the seats were stuffed badly) that would be the best bet. Do this if you are planning on hanging on to it for a while longer (why not? its a good economical little car!) Robert.

hey, I do old stuff too!!

lol the focus of my job (as an automotive technician) is to make the right diagnosis, replace the faulty parts, and have the customer concern solved first time..... I think holden's phrase is "fix it right the first time" using what they call "strategy based diagnostics" I've seen plenty of people in the automotive trade throw parts at something until it goes away (or the customer takes it away) lol.... the thing that really takes the cake, tops it all off is when I was working at my last job, we had a v6 commodore come in with a MIL illuminated, the boss says "the check engine light is on, you're going to have to fault read it and see what code is in it. It has been here twice before with a TPS related code, if it has the same code logged then you are going to have to replace the TPS again as it is obviously another faulty part.... we'll try a different supplier (aftermarket) of TPS which should fix the problem" A car logs a DTC and turns the MIL on.... you fault read it, replace a component without testing it, it comes back shortly after with the SAME DTC, so you replace the SAME component again, it comes back shortly after with the SAME DTC.... at what point do you say "This hasn't fixed the problem so therefore there must be something else wrong with it" ?? They wouldn't have listened to me at that stage in that job so I fault read it, it had the same code logged, so I replaced the TPS again, test drove it, I thought there was something not right with it as well, but the MIL did not re illuminate, so we gave it back to the customer, and they rang up the next day to say the MIL was now on again..... Intelligent lol O_o I think I'll fault read it with a scan tool and see where I go from there!! Robert.

jack the front up and spin the wheels by hand and see if either one makes the noise.... just had a similar problem after removing and rebuilding the engine, went for a drive and there was a rattle like keys jingling which was vehicle speed related.... the backing plate for the front disc brakes was bent and rubbing on the disc.... simple :D Robert.

took it for a squirt..... MIL illuminated after driving for a little bit. There are three possible ECT sensors as well, a single wire on the thermostat housing, a twin wire on the thermostat housing and a single wire on the pipe at the back of the water pump. Disconnecting and/or playing with wires at ECT sensors on the thermostat housing make no difference. Repco autotech seemed to think that the twin wire sensor at the thermostat housing was the ECT sensor and it was an NTC thermistor so theoretically open circuit would be cold and closed circuit would be max temperature, assuming there isn't a self diagnostic facility built into the ECM software.... I'm getting the exhaust pipe hooked up early this week (its a little loud with just extractors lol) and then I'll run it into work and hook our generic scan tool up and fault read it.... if that doesn't make any sense then I'll borrow a toyota scan tool from the toyota dealership next door and fault read it! on the plus side, no rattling noises from the engine or clouds of blue smoke any more :D Robert.

no MIL so it shouldn't theoretically logged any faults.... Will find and check wire in the mean time. I forgot to bring my multimeter home tonight :rolls: Robert.

Just wondering if someone can shed some light on this... Is there a separate ECT sensor for the engine ECU and another one for the temp gauge? My cooling fans keep running but my temperature gauge is reading less than normal operating temperature, and the engine isn't warming up fully, and the idle speed is staying up around 1000rpm or so. I suspect a faulty ECT sensor.... Robert.