rob83ke70

I would've actually thought that they would be worth a bit more than that. They are getting on in age and becoming quite collectable and an original one that isn't full of rust or molested to the shithouse is surely worth more than your usual ke55 you see for sale on this forum?

are the carburettors synchronised??? will drive you loopy if one is slightly different to the other, they won't idle down properly.... probably the hardest thing (keeping in mind I have a 280/286 degree cam) is getting the idle speed to an appropriate rpm. Robert.

just wondering if its possible to get replacement jets for a standard carburettor? I have a carburettor off a 2y (1.8lt) and its on a 4y (2.2lt) and the jets are still the original items, also they are 430,000km old, and I'd assume worn somewhat. if its not possible to get the jets, does anybody have access to a toyota workshop manual that would have these sizes? I'm guessing the 4y was original equipment in tarago or liteace, maybe some dynas as well? I'm not adverse to drilling the jets to the correct size!! Robert.

depends on the diff ratio and tyre size, varies from probably 3400 to 4000 at 100km/hr. I'm running a worked 4k with an exhaust far too loud and a 4.3:1 diff (shortest available stock) with a 4 speed and its rather loud :D Robert.

just putting it out there, with the air injection ports, my 4y engine (tarago, hilux, hiace, dyna) has convenient plugs for air injection blanked off with little threaded plugs.... don't know if they are the same for k series engine air injection though. Robert.

central west brakes and clutch serviced should be able to make something good :) I've got one choke hooked up. Robert.

torque spec for bolt that broke is 40nm.... that is fairly well swinging off a spanner or 3/8 ratchet to get it to that torque..... hmmm.... and boss isn't at all worried about it!

The mothers metal polish is very expensive! I went to supercheap the other day because I figured I was going to run out of silvo, I thought they would have some, but no. Got some sort of ct18 or c18 "superwash" - not as good as the silvo by a long shot. Thanks keturbo25! It's a long way from finished yet - hopefully it'll be done sometime in the next 3 to 4 months, I seem to have alot on my plate atm and I seem to be losing the innate female ability to multi-task :blush: lol Sorry guys I seem to be logged in as robert!! :P

you want the end of the pipe a bit smaller than the start, the gas will have cooled down and lost some of its velocity when it gets there, if you make the pipe size smaller then the gas speed increases again. Robert.

I thought the topic read "burn placement" and was thinking I would be reading about combustion chamber design.... didn't occur to me until I'd read the whole lot that it said "bum placement" I don't mind fixed back seats, probably a pain in a road going car though. Robert.

the repair has been and gone, the other workshop did it, I thought it was over until it got brought up again on friday when I got an arse chewing... I told the boss today that it was a free-running engine, he said that he's pretty sure thats the case too, apparently this other workshop did the water pump and heaps of other goodies too while it was apart at our expense... and apparently they wouldn't just put a belt on and see if it was all ok, they insisted the head had to come off and all that stuff.... I'm failing to see how all that money was my fault? and I'm failing to see how or why it should be brought up again? Robert.

altering how the nut behind the steering wheel works is probably going to make the biggest difference and cheapest upgrade in performance. Try a few driving courses and get involved in a car club. Robert.

zze's are 4x100 unsure about zre's I completely forgot about the ke1x and ke2x which is bad because I have a ke10, a ke11, and a ke20 here!!! Robert.

rwd should be 4x114.3 and fwd should be 4x100. Robert.

no brainer, clean it up make it run right and buy a mini spool or weld the diff... Robert.

as far as I know bw ke55 axles are interchangable with ke30 jap diffs... i think.... been a long time and I've forgotten what parts came from what car :) Robert.

I was told they did a compression test before removing the head, now I'm quite sure that they would have had to pop a lot of engine back together first to do that! the engine was probably low on compression due to wear and tear, not bent valves! I am kind of worked up... Robert.

then there begs the question as to why the bolt broke, if I used a 14mm spanner or 3/8" ratchet and socket, and it didn't feel funny when I did it up (I would have remembered!!! I don't let dodgy stuff go!) then how is it over tightening that caused the bolt to break? shouldn't it be more like fatigue? and how is that to do with me?? I'm at a loss as to whats going on, the whole time this repair was carried out (in a workshop in sydney) I wasn't told or informed very much at all other than "you've stuffed up, you must have overtensioned the idler bolt and now the engine has busted valves" and there were a few phone calls going back and forth between that workshop and the boss, but I was never in on the loop... This is really really bothering me because the boss is really unhappy about me "costing him thousands of dollars" recently. There were two other mistakes that come to mind, one of which didn't *cost* anything, rather very ebarrassing and I've worked out what I did wrong and there was actually no harm done (could have been very serious though) and the other one was a small mistake on a very large job that I was rushing to get through. I'm starting to think that small businesses, especially those run by families are just as bad as dealerships but in a different kind of a way!! I got my ass reamed for the serious mistake, it hasn't and won't happen again, and as far as I'm concerned that is finished!! the other mistake I'm happy to take the blame for as well, I didn't clip the crank sensor wiring in the right spot on a 2uz-fe in a 100 series landcruiser and the wires rubbed on the belt and wore through. Whilst I'm in the mood for venting: If I have a late model toyota which specifies dot 3 fluid only, and it has toyota genuine brake fluid in it (yellow) and I have to replace the brake fluid as part of the service, and want to put dot 3 valvoline brake fluid in it (blue), should I: A) replace the fluid in the resavoir, drain a little bit of fluid from each caliper, the fluid coming out of each caliper is still yellow when I'm finished, and I've only used 500ml or less of brake fluid (some resavoirs hold more than that, and cars with abs have huge systems) or B) replace fluid in resavoir, flush through each caliper until blue fluid comes out, using probably 1000ml (two bottles). I was taught as an apprentice that only one type of brake fluid should be used in a car at once, ie not to mix two different types. Now I know these are both dot 3 fluids, but they are from different manufacturers and are different colours, and god knows if there is anything else different in them. Is this correct? or am I doing it wrong?? I can't see the problem with charging a customer for 1000ml of brake fluid if you use 1000ml of brake fluid to do the job either? Robert.

lesson: Robert doesn't do anything up without torque wrench in hand anymore!!! Robert.

there were no photos involved, we didn't do the job just copped the bill.... and apparently the valves were damaged :) I'm not sure if they are free-running or not. It was definitely an "s" series engine. I'm sure the boss has the shits with me over that, as it cost him a lot of money, and it's playing on my mind to the point where I'm not sleeping properly (along with other things too I suppose) because I don't remember it feeling funny when I did the bolt up, and I'm sure I would have used a 14mm spanner or a 3/8" ratchet to do it up, and I can't see how I would have over-tensioned it. I'm not quite sure what is going on. Robert.

you can get booked in anything, tone your driving style down.... race the car on a track with a car club, drive sensibly on the road!!! I say go for it with the little corolla, they are plenty fun to drive, nothing like a commodore, and you probably will be very happy with how much less fuel it goes through and you might find you are enjoying yourself enough not to want the commodore back!!! I love little cars, and there's nothing like a little car that handles corners well! If you buy one, take it for a GOOD test drive first and make sure it doesn't have oil consumption issues. The one we bought has wear in the valve guides (i put new seals on it and it still blows smoke) and possibly worn bearings or something funny going on in the bottom end, and it was a bit of an oily scary mess when we bought it. Needless to say, it is now very clean, doesn't leak oil, has four new matching wheels and pirelli p6's, the steering rack stays put in the right place, it doesn't scrub tyres, uses sweet bugger all fuel, and I was happy to write a rwc out for it (seeing as I'm the mechanic in the family).... still have to rebuild the engine at some point next year. It is an ae93 seca with a 7afe (ultima). Robert.

eew! that's nasty ageing for only 12 months... :)

Just wondering if anybody has ever had any problems with idler pulley or tensioner bolts breaking on the timing belt of a toyota s series engine? I replaced a timing belt on either a 3s-fe or a 5s-fe, and the idler/tensioners were noisy so I replaced those as well. less than 10,000km/6months later the bolt for one of them has broken, apparently from over-tensioning. I'm sure I didn't over-tension the bolts and I'm sure they felt quite ok when I did them up. Somebody else has done the repairs, apparently there was considerable damage to the valves when the whole lot came unstuck :) Just wondering if anybody has seem this before, I know there are a lot of people on here with toyota experience. I *think* it may have been the second time the belt had been replaced, I can't quite even remember the exact car!! I've done plenty of camry timing belts with that engine and this is a first for me!! It is bothering me a LOT because obviously I don't want engines to blow up!! Robert.

I really don't understand, if you want to use a nissan engine, why don't you put it in a nissan or datsun?? If you have a toyota, keep it toyota! much cooler that way! and easier to get parts for! Robert.

toyota engine dammit!!! 4ag, 4agte, 4agze, 7ag hybrid, 7agte hybrid, 3tg, hell put a 1mz-fe or a 2gr-fe, or best still a 2zz-ge (should you be able to find one) in it!! Robert.