rob83ke70

belt gets done at 150k service on a 1mz-fe (or most of them at least). big services are at 40k intervals (if on 10k service interval) and maybe 45?? km intervals if on a 15k service interval? I do more services on 10k service interval cars, I did a heap of 1mz belts and spark plugs not too long ago. Plugs (platinum) get done approx 90/100k service?? Damn my memory is getting funny.... too many holdens lately. Robert.

swaybars and lowering a bit would be really good along with new bushes. and I reckon any corolla I own from now on would be worth lightening the flywheel it makes that much of a difference ;) Robert.

if you are keeping a 4k engine in it, I would be very hesitant to do anything that involves an increase in weight especially the unsprung kind of weight.... ie, with a 4k (or even a 5k) the most I'd do to the brakes is make sure the booster works, new brake fluid, maybe new brake lines, slotted front rotors and *maybe* bendix ultimate brake pads (use vn commodore rear pads) and ke55 import drums on the rear, new shoes, everything adjusted right..... we are umming and ahhing over a t50 in order to get nicer gear sets and ratios.... we have a ke55 race car. Still not quite sure, it might be just as easy to get a special gear set made for a k50 anyway, and it would be lighter. its all about keeping the weight to a minimum if you can. Kylie hasn't managed to boil the fluid or experience any brake problems with stock as a rock brakes on the ke55, a worked 4k and several races (supersprints, hillclimbs, descents, khanacrosses, motorkhanas etc) Robert.

have you thought about fitting some slightly larger rolling diameter tyres? the subaru L series that I had a while ago had 13" wheels on it with 175/70r13 tyres, and a lot of the guys with the same car used to run 14x6" speedy sunraysia rims and 27" overall diameter tyres, lifting the whole thing up. Any larger than that and you would have to put a lift kit in it, these parts were readily available off the shelf though for the subaru :) Robert.

Hey, just wondering if anybody can help, I am curious as to know the weight of a toyota corona (or similar) 4x114.3pcd 14" steel rim, compared to the factory 14" alloy rim (on corona, tarago, celica etc). Curious as to how much different they are, I've heard that steel rims *can* be lighter than factory alloys sometimes... Robert.

you have got some slack in the cable when the carburettor is at idle? I had a car once that the previous owner had done everything to idle it down, closed the mixture right off, the whole hog, and I found the problem was no slack in the cable in the idle position, thus keeping the butterfly open...... 5 minutes, then it idled beautifully and didn't have any stalling issues when stopping at intersections. Your problem though is it not shutting instantaneously when at what, maybe you have a vac leak? plug the pcv line and see if it improves, tighten the manifold bolts, check for anything loose or hoses cracked..... Our PCV was drawing that much air (with a lynx manifold and pair of su carburettors) that it would idle to about 1800 rpm with the butterflys closed....... upon removal (and venting to a catch can instead) I found that the idle is now good. Robert.

thumbs up for the chemical flush and good cleanout so far, temp seems to have come down, vehicle no longer "idles up" and we seem pretty happy.... I'm short one adaptor fitting to hook my aftermarket temp gauge up so as to confirm this, I will report when I have confirmed for sure. Robert.

get a new cable made..... there are places that will make a brand new one to your specifications, how do you think all of us with modified carburettors get things done? Robert.

I have a three row radiator (stock is two row) and a custom shroud and thermo fan fitted. Was really good when we got it, have been having some overheating issues lately. I have run a chemical flush through the cooling system, also changed the water pump and thermostat housing (for second hand items of a different design re heater hose routing) and it has a new thermostat (which didn't solve the problem. After running the chemical flush in it for half an hour or a bit more, I dropped the coolant, then used a hand held hose nozzle to blast jets of water through the radiator and engine block in pulses until only clear water came out the other end. A surprising amount of brown liquid came out..... drained the engine block at the fitting below the water pump, and then refilled with clean water, and sent Kylie out to blayney in it to go to work.... I will be interested to see how it goes... Should the temperature have come back down, then nice green coolant is first thing on the agenda. So far, driving it around town it seemed a lot cooler, so fingers crossed :dance: Robert.

came with the car...... closest I've seen yet to equal length primaries and equal length secondaries too!! Robert.

I have dual springs fitted to the worked 4k, they were supplied by crow cams, I can't remember the specifics it was so long ago :dance: Robert.

I was thinking staight cut gears would be an interesting development....... all depends on finances, which may also have some bearing on whether a K50 or a T50 gearbox is used... I'm definitely going to be going over the car and doing all that, every little bit of weight counts! I'm sure too that with cold air going into the carburettors, (maybe velocity stacks fitted too) and hot air leaving via a revised exhaust, I can get a little bit more power out of it! Robert.

Hey We currently have a ke55 road/race car, it has a 280/286 degree camshaft, twin 1.5" su carburettors, 4-2-1 extractors and 2" exhaust system with 2.25" muffler at the rear, lightened flywheel, electronic regraphed ignition, everything is balanced, and we have thermo fan fitted. This engine however is coming out to go into a ke30 race car to replace the very very rusty ke55 body. This car is to be set up primarily for dirt events, and it will be on historic plates, so a) we do not have to stress too much about drivability/noise/road type issues and b) everything must be from the period of the car. On the to do list thus far: modified exhaust for better flow and less noise, try to keep heat in exhaust and cold air in induction charge (fit heat shields and wrapping etc), fix a few oil leaks (from sump gasket) and better ventilate the crankcase. Body will have roll cage fitted, no carpet, trim, or deadener, lightweight seats and harnesses fitted. Battery will be mounted in boot, extra space will be used for catch tank and to allow greater flow of cold air into carburettors. Now, I was wondering, is anybody here using a different gearset from the standard item? I was wondering if it was worth fitting a t50 gearbox and a set of straight cut dog engagement gears with closer ratios... or even a set of shallower helical cut gears with syncros with closer ratios? I would imagine that it is possible to get gear sets much easier for a t50 than a k50, which would be the reason for the conversion. I'm curious to know how much heavier a t50 gearbox is as well, the world wide web of questionable information says a t50 weights somewhere around 27kg, unsure of what the K box weighs though. Obviously I'm trying to keep weight to a bare minimum as it is a K engine, and its all about power to weight ratio. The shallower the angle of the gears, the less power is lost in transmission, which would be a good thing :dance: I'm not overly worried about the noise of the straight cut gears either. I'm assuming I'd be better off going with a jap U series diff (don't want to put a heavier unit in, as I'm only running a k engine) due to the ratios being much easier to change, and obviously some mixing and matching to get the diff ratio right. Thinking a 4.11 might be the go on 185/60r14 tyres, but this depends upon the gear set too. I'm open to suggestions for other ideas to get the car lighter or grab every last little HP out of that engine :y: Robert.

a stock k motor won't do anything exciting over 6000rpm, all it does is make lots of noise and sound like it will blow up. improved induction/exhaust, different cam profile, elec ignition, balancing, and lightened flywheel, with everything done right you will pull 8000rpm out of it pretty easy... a LOT of work to get it to that stage though. Robert.

got it sorted with a bit of playing around, I now have fully working air conditioning :thumbsup: Rather than an "idle up" solenoid on the carburettor, I have a control unit for the air conditioning (think pcb with capacitors and transistors attached rather than computer) located under the glove box. This has an adjustment for at what rpm the air conditioning cuts in, leading you to believe that it needs an rpm signal. The ONLY place to get this signal is from the negative side of the ignition coil (tachometer signal). After looking at a hilux/4runner wiring diagram, I have noticed there is a wire going from this control unit to the ignition coil, a black wire.... I have used a multimeter to find which black wire (there are a few wires not plugged in to anything near where the coil used to live) connects to the control unit. The vehicle has been retrofitted with an electronic ignition, with the coil inside the distributor, so the wiring is somewhat different, and the a/c has not been working for years. I connected this wire to the negative side of the coil, and lo and behold the condensor fan cuts in and out when the switch is turned on/off for the a/c. After some more playing around, I discovered there is another wire that needed to be plugged in located in the same area of the car, and after this was done, the a/c compressor cuts in and out as it should. I have hooked the high/low pressure switch up (retrofitted on the new receiver dryer) and it is all working as it should... meh.... auto electricians..... they make their money off lazy people lol! I'm happy to spend heaps of time on this, its much better for me than throwing money at it!!! Now I have a ton of stuff to do on it, but its all fairly little stuff, neatening things up and cleaning stuff, and little repairs, which should keep me occupied for a while. The main thing is, the engine goes and the air conditioning works..... I might add that is raining and quite cool outside today as well! Merry Christmas to everyone!! Robert.

hey, just wondering if anybody can get a hold of a wiring diagram for the ac system on my 1990 toyota dyna yh81r, I've got something not hooked up or missing around the distributor/ac control area and my ac won't turn on..... its been pulled apart for ages, and I've just resurrected it (components/leaks/gas/etc) but I can't turn it on!!!! it was a kettering ignition system and its been converted to electronic, and I'm thinking an RPM signal is missing, but not quite sure :thumbsup: Robert.

all engines and cars are good if they are serviced correctly...... cars don't get serviced correctly, be it customer's fault or mechanic's fault, or even sometimes the manufacturers fault not providing an adequate service schedule.... this is the downfall of cars, especially when they change owners a few times and chop and change motor mechanics..... I can think of a few cars that despite being serviced regularly, have had problems due to lack of PROPER maintenance... disgusting really when the customer (who doesn't know anything about cars) is taking it to the motor mechanic in good faith that it will be looked after and it doesn't get serviced PROPERLY and the customer isn't even informed..... Thats my little rant.... Robert.

a certain hyundai excel I owned briefly (alas for too long though) comes to mind.... springs cut that low that it was on the bump stops, and myself driving it up and down parramatta road quite a few times...... everybody thought I was taking the mickey out of someone because I was physically bouncing in the car up and down to the point of hilarity (for onlookers that is) and I very quickly put springs into it!!! and then (not as quick as I would have liked to) sold it!! Robert.

looks like it should be fun :)

205/80r14 are huge tyres!!! DON'T lower your car 4 inches!!! it won't handle well at all. go talk to a sensible suspension shop!! if your curiosity gets the better of you, get something with coil springs all around, and remove the springs. car will sit on bump stops, then drive it around the block and see what you think. thats a pretty good indication of how well it will handle. Kylie's ke55 is dropped maybe a bit less than 2" from standard, and we run 195/60r14's on it, looks really nice. with smaller tyres (ie 200/50r13 slicks) it could maybe go another inch tops. It has no load carrying capacity now though, race car only! we have front and rear swaybar, nice shocks, and the stiffest springs we could find (in the garage lol) and it handles pretty neutral in the way of understeer/oversteer. at the end of the day it is your car, but I don't want any part of it or to be associated with it if you carry out dodgy habib's fully sic 4 or 5 inch lowering job regardless of who you pay to do it. Robert.

I clean all head bolts up and clean all threads out and then liberally coat thread and under head (normally whole head) in engine oil prior to assembly..... good idea to make sure all bolts go in all the way before fitting cylinder head. I did see a head gasket failure like that once but between 3 and 4 and it worked out to be the head bolts (torque to yield) were stretched and bottoming out in the cylinder block before the right tension was applied to the head/gasket..... Robert.

Okay, that's the general consensus I've gotten from most people I've talked to lol I've never had anything to do with them and only ever seen one in real life - they don't look exceptionally nice. Thanks guys!!!

ooh, that means i'll more than likely see it :locked:

Just been looking around at a couple of cars as a potential daily runabout and came across a Toyota Paseo 1992 model. Any opinions on these? How are the engines in them - do they have any known problems or traits like the 7afe does? I read a review saying they were a bit of a slug - i'm not buying it as a sports car i just want a reliable daily. Thanks guys :y: Kylie

precisely. When I was looking around for replacement bonnets for our ke11 recently I was getting quoted around $200 - $400 just for a ke11 bonnet - I found one elsewhere for cheaper needless to say but I'd hate to think what a full car would be worth to buy off of those guys lol It's really subjective this sort of thing anyway... Although if you trust car sales' opinion their valuating tool values them at between $1200 and $2700 http://www.carsales.com.au/car-valuations/...58&search=1 Good luck with it anyway :y: