rob83ke70

you do make a perfectly valid point and I agree totally that its all about smooth unrestricted gas flow. Might require some further thought then in terms of my inlet manifold and 3kb carburettors. I'm planning on a 2" exhaust out of the extractors, 2" ID perforated tube resonator maybe 18" long, then step the pipe to 1.75" before the diff, and a 1.75" straight through perforated tube muffler with a 1.75" tip on my corolla, and maybe on the ke55 as well, should be a good flowing exhaust that isn't too loud!! its all about the gas speed instead of the pipe size. Try and explain that to either bogans or saddlefriggers! Robert.

ke55/ke70 discs. if that is not enough, slotted rotors and vn commodore rear pads in bendix ultimate. we haven't had the brakes fade on the ke55 yet and they are standard and she races it! Think of all that unsprung weight you are adding and shudder! Robert.

I'm with you there, use detergent or something, there is nothing worse than oil on the road!!! (I ride an r6) Robert.

why did toyota make a bigport head if they didn't have an advantage? marketing? like the o2 advantage in the 80-90's? I'm going to match the ports of my 3kb inlet manifold to the head and play with extractor sizes and stuff to get it all neat and tidy, and smooth any un needed corners and so on. I have a toyota 4y manifold to neaten up and port match on the weekend, good fun :y: Robert.

my 2c worth: I had a heavy duty exedy clutch in the ke55 and I was never happy with it, it always felt like it wasn't disengaging far enough to get smooth gear changes and it was really really heavy. I now have a clutch industries/rpm/pbr whatever they call themselves these days heavy duty clutch and it is much lighter on the pedal, and disengages properly and I'm really happy. The other interesting thing to note about my experience is that everything in my engine is balanced (I know I have a 4k and you guys are talking about *a* engines) and the exedy clutch had about 10-15 holes drilled in the cover plate on one side presumably to balance it, whereas my rpm clutch hasn't been touched, the flywheel has the holes drilled for balancing. Seems like a much more sensible and professional job to me, I don't know if this had any bearing on the life and failure of the first clutch. The exedy clutch eventually let go, the pressure plate broke internally and refused to let go of the driven plate and I basically had no clutch. Not impressed. Robert.

just for the record, with the crow 740 camshaft, it was much much much more streetable with the twin su's than it ever was with any of the downdraught webers that I've tried (dgv, dhsa2, and adm) or with the standard carburettor. when you're done, come up here and compare with kylie's ke55 or alternatively we will visit you... Robert.

I have twin aisans off a 3k-b and they are going to go on my ke11, so it should be interesting to see how they go. I'm not putting *that* crazy of a camshaft in it :) Robert.

you are going to have a lot of fun, and I mean that in a perverted sense of the word, setting your engine up to idle and be drivable with that camshaft :) but hey, its all a learning experience. It took me years to get the 4k in the ke55 with that cam to the stage where I'm happy with it. Robert.

Tighe are slow as a quiet week :) but hopefully the job will be good! Robert.

I *might* put a dcd onto the 5k going in the ke10 as the daily driver yet... will be interested as to how well it goes... I reckon you shouldn't go anything bigger than 260-270 degrees advertised duration and I'm dying of curiosity as to how your twin 1.25" su's work... any bigger than that and you will need to rebuild the engine with additional modifications and probably want to rev it higher and pull more air through and need larger carburettors and so on.... the cycle is rather vicious, it starts with a camshaft and goes from there :) less is always more when driving it on the street and talking about camshafts.... most people go too "lumpy" and the cars are too much of a pig down low and end up being slower than stock. The other interesting thing is the popularity of 5k engines (1500cc) which seems to correlate with 280-300 degree advertised duration camshafts... the larger the engine capacity the less lopey the camshaft will make it, so basically you're getting the same result as a milder camshaft in a smaller engine, hence the pleasing results (compared to 280+ duration in a smaller engine) and the popularity of the larger engines if that makes sense :) Robert.

I hope its a shitty car to begin with, I really feel miffed when the tidy neat drivable cars go to people with those skillz... You are talking about drift racing the car, not driving like a cockhead on public roads? Robert.

aren't you forgetting something??? camshafts don't want to come out with a fuel pump lever in the way! Robert.

wait till my ke11 is done, it will be fast :( I'm itching to get my dyna done in the meantime though, its basically a larger upright K motor (y series) in a mini truck lol. Robert.

Keep in mind I'm the sort of person that would pull the engine out and rebuild the whole thing and kind of get carried away...

Alloy wheels it is then. I haven't bought anything, was originally thinking steel wheels because they can be cheaper and lighter, but if thats a problem then I'm happy to go with alloys. Robert.

I'm quite sure that my next K motor will be faster than the last one too! Robert.

Keith, my camshaft in the ke55 is a crow cams 740, I just keep losing the spec sheet and forgetting the specs :) I would NOT reccommend a crow 740 unless you are running upwards of 10.5:1 compression, twin carburettors, elec dizzy regraphed and a decent amount of engine work. I'd go the tighe 104. Do a compression test on your engine first, I have a gauge if you need one, and providing everything is healthy, valve springs and seals can be changed with the head on... we already know how NOT to drop a valve lol. If you need a hand with anything give me a yell. John Kitchen in Bathurst (automotive body maker, fabrications and automotive engineering) who I was working with last week says he's actually met Ivan Tighe, although probably doesn't know him well enough to get mates rates :) I think it seems like a bit of an old school place and they need to be communicated with on the phone. I haven't heard back from them about the Dyna camshaft, I will be ringing them tomorrow to confirm everything and/or pay the bill. I know you've helped me heaps with my corolla, so if you need a hand with anything or some company while you play with your corolla its all good :( Robert.

Hey I'm looking at quietening the exhaust on the ke55, it currently has a set of extractors, a louvred resonator, 2" piping, a 2.25" rear muffler (straight through offset entry/exit) and a 3" tip. I was thinking about wrapping the extractors, fitting a heat shield for the su carburettors, and putting a 2" pipe size with a 2" ID perforated tube resonator, as long as possible, then smoothly stepping down to 1.75" pipe just before the diff, and a 1.75" straight through muffler with either a 2" or 1.75" tip (straight cut). The basic idea is that as the gas gets further away from the engine it loses head and therefore loses velocity, and decreasing the pipe size at the rear will counter act this (wrx's step the rear section down and actually make more power). The additional flow/heat in the pipe will hopefully make the rear muffler last a bit longer, and hopefully this will be quiet enough to hear the radio on long commutes at 4000rpm. Any thoughts on this? I want a free flowing pipe and as quiet as I can get it. The engine has a 276 degree cam, twin 1.5" su's, and is a bit of a high rpm screamer, not a problem on a race track but is creating hearing problems during the daily driving. Robert.

yeah thats a smart place to be "racing" too...

Are you kidding me??? what do we cut springs with??? I've NEVER seen anybody cut them with the gas axe, and thats about the only way you'd get enough heat into them to affect the spring steel, even then if you knew how to work it, you might not get enough heat into the spring to affect it. if you chop them with a cut off wheel on an angle grinder it will NEVER heat the spring enough to soften it. You ONLY cut a bit out of the END anyway. But do feel free to spread anything you like all over the internet, it keeps it fun trying to work out myth from truth. Robert.

Any ideas where to get 2nd hand but good slicks or semi slicks for the ke55 for hillclimbs/supersprints/circuit racing?? I know brindabella motorsports club forum was good for 2nd hand rally tyres that were absolutely brilliant for khanacrosses, I'm just having some dramas finding 2nd hand slicks/semi slicks. I haven't got rims yet, was thinking plain steel rims (preferably black) in either 13" 14" or 15" depending on what tyres I can get easily. Robert.

lol!!! I did have that thought I must admit... put a 2gr-fe, or a 2zz-ge, or something of a similar nature into it, you'd scare the pants off everyone. The last 5 litre holden v8 I drove was abysmal to say the least... and I've driven a LOT of fast cars now. Robert.

+1

healthy engine is a good part of it, flywheel makes a HUGE difference though. And we can put up with a loss of momentum when driving up hills. Everything in a car is a trade-off and you learn to live with it after a while. We run a 4.3:1 diff with a 4speed manual transmission and 195/60r14 tyres, sits at 4000rpm or so on the highway, and it has a rather loud exhaust... Robert.

get somebody who knows what they are doing to lighten it, and balance it as well. I'd reccommend robinson toolmakers in kelso (bathurst) nsw. And as far as I'm concerned it is totally worth it! Robert.