rob83ke70

a facet pump does NOT have to be noisy, depends on how you mount it!! use small pieces of fuel hose, and longer bolts to mount it so it is flexible, and the noise will not be transmitted to the chassis... a VL fuel pump (the main efi system unit) will put out somewhere around 30-45 psi (I think) and you will need to put a pressure regulator in, a carburettor requires 7 psi at the most. I'm not sure about the "lift" pump in a VL... Feel free to correct me on any of that if I'm wrong lol. Robert.

I thought the red was the primer coat. the metallic blue is definitely not original, and the purple, although its pretty well adhered, I don't think its original either.... Robert.

everything is out of it at the moment, struts, k frame, brake booster, brake lines, fuel lines, cables, wiring, the whole lot... I don't have wiring problems in engine bays of KE corollas. I have wiring problems inside the cabin under dashboards etc. Robert.

hey all I have a ke11 which I'm working on to make into a daily driver, I'm going over the rust/dodgy paint sections, with the following goals: 1 - prevent further rust 2 - make paint stick to vehicle 3 - make paintwork look neat now, I *think* the car was a light blue from the factory. It has blue metallic paint in parts of it, dark purple possibly metallic paint in other parts, and light blue underneath. possibly done in a few coats, some of the paint isn't adhered very well at all, there is a lot that is chipping off, or flaking. The metallic blue and the purple appear to be some sort of two pack paint, the light blue would be acrylic. I'm going to spray the engine bay black, but I want to use acrylic, and I want the paint to stick. I have taken all the loose paintwork off, and I'd just like to clarify that I'm doing the right thing in the right order here: 1 - remove loose paint and suspect paint 2 - rust removal 3 - use fine sandpaper to "dull" the surface of any of the good paint 4 - wax and grease remover 5 - apply a "sealer" to stop two pack paint reacting with acrylic 6 - prime/paint acrylic paint as required I'm trying to do this as cheap as possible with a reasonable quality result.... hard to do I know :hmm: Robert.

this is still a way off yet...... plenty of time to practice in the ke55 still. and there are plenty of club events to drive historic rego car to and from as well. I will have to talk to some people in car club and engineers tomorrow I think.

we are aiming for historic rego.... only going to drive to/from club events and rallies... much cheaper than rally rego, just unsure as to how exactly the order and procedure for blueslip/pinkslip/engineer/rego is carried out. Robert.

I was thinking about that, and I'm sure I'd read somewhere the boot had to be sealed from the cabin... I remember talking with an engineer about certifying it as a two seater and the boot did have to be sealed. I'm still leaning towards weld in and home made. I've got plenty of cams information about what I need now thankyou :) The thing that I'm worrying about is engineering and rego. The car needs to be engineered as a two seater, and it needs to pass a blue slip, do I need to do all this and then put the cage in? The last conversation I had with an engineer, he didn't want to have anything to do with more than a 4 point cage, and this needs to be a 6 point cage for rallies.... bit of a pain in the neck if I have to register it and then put the cage in! Maybe I need to do the course for a blue slip ticket so I can bend the rules slightly? ("that cage wasn't installed when I wrote the blue slip!!" Robert.

send me a pm - I will have to talk to the other half first, but I have a set of ke20 coilover kits fitted to ke20 struts, dropped at least 3 inches from standard height which are no good to me at all. I need standard struts to go back in it in order to take these ones out (the vehicle needs to be rolling). Robert.

dumb question time: This car is currently unregistered. We would like to put it on historic rego, which shouldn't be a huge drama as we are both in a car club that does this, and we have sorted out the requirements for that. The problem is the cage and the blueslip. I'm assuming it needs to pass a blueslip to get the historic rego, and I need a 6 point cage to compete in rallies.... anybody been in this pickle before? what was the outcome? Robert.

the ke25 cage looks a bit more like what I had in mind....

oOoh brilliant!! I hadn't actually thought about attacking the doors and the rear parcel shelf with a hole saw.... was going to take the trims off, the deadener out, and anything else I thought possible out. My battery is going to live in the back of the car where the back seat was unless I come up with a better idea as well. Distributes weight better and frees up space for cold air to go to the carbies, combined with heat wrap/ceramic coating, and heat shields I should have relatively cool air into my engine :) thats a serious looking cage!! I like the idea of linking it to the strut towers. So you have it welded to the body at the six mounting points, plus at the top of each pillar, where else is it attached? That is far more serious looking than what I originally had in mind.... I take it you were planning on crashing a lot harder/faster than we were? Robert.

the thought of running the cage into bonnet or boot areas hadn't occured to me. I was after a minimal (lightest possible) cage, has to be a 6 point, and has to meet cams requirements, I have cams manuals here specifying what it is to me made out of. I've got time up my sleeve for now.... but that being said the sooner it gets done the better. I'm planning on buying a pipe bender and a mig in the nearish future. I can mig weld to an ok standard, and I'm keen to do more and more to get to a better standard :) mild steel piping shouldn't be horrible anyway to work with. the welds have to be all the way around each join, which apparently gets interesting when it goes in the car... someone said something about welding the cage in, if you drop it though holes in the floor and then weld it fully, put it back in position and weld plates/weld it to the body apparently it makes it easier. I've got a few pics of the car that I'm going to have to get organised and upload. Kylie will be the chief driver of this vehicle, I get my kick out of building it, and I'm thinking of navigating when we get into rallies..... The other thing on my mind at the moment is whether to run 13" rims with 175/70 tyres, or 14" rims with 185/60 tyres. We have a set of rally tyres that are 185/65 on 14" corona rims which we use for khanacrosses, which are just a smidge too big (they scrub at full lock). we run a bw diff with a 4.3 ratio at the moment, which is *just* low enough for the 14" wheels.... going to run a jap diff in the rally car though, and I'm thinking about ground clearance and suspension travel, as well as tyre availability and unsprung weight..... yet to make decisions, but I've still got a cage to stress about in the mean time. LOL about the exhaust tubing.... I think it has to be a bit stronger than that... Robert.

we have a ke30 4 door sedan which is going to be built as a rally car... I'm in the process of stripping the weight out of it, and thinking about the roll cage. I was just after some pointers from people on here with 6 point cages and serious rally cars. is there anywhere that needs extra reinforcement on a ke30 body? I know the strut towers need to be braced, as repeated khanacross races tends to bend the top of the strut towers causing camber and castor problems. I was looking at making the roll cage myself, should I go with weld in or bolt in? any tricks as to getting complete welds on every join to meet cams approval? We are running a modified 4k engine, so making everything as light as possible is a priority, although I'm juggling this with limited budget as well, so it should be interesting. Robert.

if you rock up in a lumpy grumpy k engine powered car, and then proceed to flog the crap out of cars with much larger and faster engines..... I think they'd get suspicious and you'd have to pull the engine apart and show them.... Robert.

an e1 is either a z432 or a z386. a d2 is a z418. can't reccommend the z418 enough :) Robert.

z418 all the way. never use a z68 again lol :wink:

I have just changed the engine oil, was previously running a z68 oil filter and castrol magnatec 15w40. I am now running a z418 (which is the equivalent of a 90915yzzd2) and penrite hpr10 10w50 semi-synthetic oil. previously, oil pressure light would take a few seconds to go out, engine had a small rattle on startup, and when stopped you could hear oil trickling quite fast into the sump. now, oil light goes out instantly, seems to hold pressure for ages and ages when the engine is turned off, no rattle on startup anymore, and you can't audibly hear oil trickling rapidly into the sump when you switch it off. I would HIGHLY RECCOMMEND that EVERYBODY switches to a z418. Can the z68, just use the z418!!! The toyota genuine filter is a 909150002 i think, which is listed on the front of the z418 box (ie this oil filter replaces the following: <insert list of toyota part numbers here> ) so I don't know how we came to all be using z68's in the aftermarket parts books.... Robert.

you'll need something bigger with a turbo engine.... slotted rotors and performance pads in the standard size would be brilliant for a k motor, but go heaps faster and you'd need something bigger. our cars are all minimalist things, small engine, low weight... Robert.

next one I do will have some sort of expensive silicone type sealant on a rubber gasket.... mine weeps a little bit, although I think my crankcase pressurises a smidge too much sometimes (at 8000rpm) which could be a drama... when the engine goes in the next car I'm revising the crankcase breathing system and catch can... Robert.

if you are planning on reusing the radiator in its current state, when it comes out of the car, lie it down and fill it with water.... if they are left dry for a period of time, scale and rust builds up and when they are re used they block internally causing overheating.... if you leave it full of water apparently they don't do this..... Robert.

assuming you are running a k engine: make sure the vac booster is working well. install slotted rotors, girlock calipers and bendix ultimate pads from the rear of a vn commodore..... nice new fluid, rears adjusted well, possibly ke5x import drums on the rear (larger). should pull up great, and won't increase unsprung weight :) Robert.

two types of stop leak additive for engine oil, one makes the oil thicker, which could possibly cause problems with it blocking passages.... it usually is marketed as "stop smoke". The other type is an additive which softens the rubber in "hard" seals - ie low km but very old. if the seal is worn out, it obviously won't fix the problem. This type of additive will not do anything bad to your engine. I have never been overly successful in getting sumps to seal perfectly on a k motor, although practice makes perfect. Robert.

there are sumitomo's pbr's and girlock calipers.... two different types of disc, I thought the thickness was the only difference. I could be wrong though. Robert.

well at the moment i'm mainly concerned with the overall rolling diameter as the rims seem to fit nicely.... Robert.

they are 4.5" rims. unsure if they are stock, i thought ke1x were all 12" rims stock? this is just a daily at this stage, and I have loads of tyres to wear out in cheesecutter flavour and not a whole lot of money to throw around. As long as they don't scrub or look stupid I'll put up with them for a while.... Robert.