rob83ke70

Just wondering if someone can tell me from experience what size primary venturi should be used in a 28/36 DCD on my worked 4k engine. Both the DCD's that I have at the moment are the stock 26/27 diameter venturis, and the stock carburettor is 21/24 diameter venturis. I can't find what diameter a 32/36 dgv is, or that much solid information at all. I've been told to use either a 24 or 25mm diameter primary venturi, but how do I work out which one I need? how much of a difference will this make? has anyone run a 4k with a 26mm diameter primary venturi? Robert.

all ke corollas are only four seaters and it should say so on the compliance plate.

you need carpet or some sort of "anti slip surface" at least for the drivers feet area to pass a RWC in NSW. if you put aluminium checkerplate down and attach it properly and its all nice and neat I think it will pass (will have to check the phrasing of the RTA AIS station guidlines in the big orange book). Robert.

lol cold and foggy on the way home.... i wasn't cold.... must have been rugged up enough!! (I only just got home at 8:20pm) and I work in Bathurst. Robert.

scratch marks in the bore that won't hone out are above oil ring anyway!

mustn't have got all the crud off it from when I honed it with the block in the chassis.... mains weren't new, big ends were. I degreased and pressure washed it tonight, then honed it with the bottle brush hone (borrowed from work!) and cleaned it thoroughly several times and oiled it all up.... I'm getting obsessive over cleanliness lol... I'm using 90915yzzd2 filters for everything I own these days as I work next door to toyota.... I'm going to measure it up, but I think I'll find the bore OK (unless its been honed too much) and the pistons worn. It was making a noise that I think was piston slap when it was running and there appears visible wear on the skirts of the pistons. need new cam bearings, mains, and probably big ends (they are scored badly). crank doesn't appear scored, will measure and check it though. will investigate oil pump and measure clearances - new oil pump wasn't that dear... Robert.

didn't buy a hone - borrowed one. and being a bottle brush hone it should take a minimal amount of material off the bore... there are a few small scored that are deep enough not to go away and I'm umming and ahhing about what to do.... might end up boring and oversize..... haven't ordered any parts off anyone yet. going to measure it up anyway, I've got some specs... as far as the oil pressure goes, there is significant wear in the mains and the cam bearings, and scoring in everything... pretty sure there wasn't wear in the oil pump or leaks anywhere internally, but I'll check it out again anyway. Robert.

you can get slotted ke55/ke70 rotors from your local brake shop. you can then convert ke20 or any early ke corolla to ke55/ke70 front brakes (very easy from memory) and put them on. buy bendix ultimate pads for the rear of a vn commodore and they go straight in. Robert.

you've bent or buckled a suspension component, possibly a rim, a strut, a radius rod, a control arm bush, a steering arm, or even the chassis. you've probably got an issue with the float in the carburettor as well. Robert.

you can buy a kit from redline for hooking up the throttle cable to a weber dgv or holley 180. The picture in the book showed a holley 180. if only linkages were that easy to come by for a pair of SU's!!! Robert.

doesn't seem to be a lot of pictures on the internet of throttle cable setups d'oh!

email to dellorto uk sent. another dumb question: how has everybody got the throttle cable hooked up on their weber dgv/dcd etc? they all come with a funny looking U shaped bracket that I can't work out and the throttle wheel turns the wrong way. How does everybody have their choke hooked up? last time I ran a weber I had to run the choke cable the whole way around the engine compartment in order to not put tight u turns in it and make it acceptable to pull on and off. Any other way of doing this? Robert.

back to original topic: just put thermostat in a bowl, boiled the jug and poured boiling water over it...... not sure how fast these things are supposed to open but its opened a few mm, more on one side than the other after maybe a minute..... don't think thats quite right!! on the basis of this investigation and discussion, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that as the combustion rings on the HG all look clean and nothing screams out "blown" I'm going to say that the HG wasn't blown.... yet. Keith, feel free to give me a bit of shit lol. still got oil pressure issue and oil consumption issue to sort out. I have access to a good bottle brush hone now, and I've purchased a complete gasket set on trademe.co.nz for a good price, just gotta get bearings, pistons and rings, and thrust washers. Robert.

I'm not going to put anything more than slotted front rotors and ke55 import drums on any 4k engined corolla I own - the whole point of a k powered corolla is that its light and original, and bigger brakes = increased unsprung weight. when we do the 4agte ke20 it will have the lightest smallest but satisfactory brakes I can come up with. Basically no bigger than a corolla with factory fitted 4agte for the same reason - probably slotted/drilled though with a good compound pad... Robert.

LOL I work for Holden and HSV..... LOL again!! I had a neat little thing for bleeding cooling systems when I worked for Peugeot, it was a largish 2lt or so filler bottle with a radiator cap fitting on the bottom, you could put in on in place of the radiator cap and fill it, and the two litres of fluid under gravity would assist in the bleeding of difficult cooling systems (think peugeot 307 or 406 with dw10td engine). I haven't seen something quite that good since I left! Robert.

the radiator isn't the forward most part of the cooling system, there are heater hoses an lpg converter (being deleted before car is back together) and possibly the heater core in front or higher than the radiator..... maybe I need to bleed the heater core? drilling holes in the thermostat doesn't change the operating temperature of the cooling system, just makes it much much slower to get to operating temperature. I can buy (or should be able to as they are listed in the tridon catalog) thermostats in a large number of different temperatures to suit this application too, so 5 degrees cooler it is! Robert.

dumb question: where do I buy a venturi for a dcd? can't find anything for a dcd (plenty of dcoe stuff) on the internet. is a local parts place going to laugh at me? Robert.

I think I need an accurate temp gauge..... by runs hot, I mean the factory gauge made it to the red a few times and seemed to run higher than it should. the viscous coupling fan seemed to run more often than it should too - its brand new, the old one was seized solid and horribly noisy!! I was sure I had every last little bit of air out of the system too! I reckon its worth getting the radiator cleaned out anyway, and testing the thermostat and possibly even putting 5 degree cooler thermostat in it. the motor is 400cc larger than the original and the radiator is still stock. Robert

I'm wincing at the thought of all this extra weight!!! the car is nice and light - don't add all that weight and spoil an original stock car...... also its no longer original especially with nissan parts!! I'd get the drums completely reconditioned - I've seen drums untouched (other than adjusting every now and then) go for 200,000km or more! you realise that new small cars still run drums on the rear? Robert.

bottom radiator hose - new thermostat too!

wouldn't go above 10:1 compression ratio and I'd match the ports but not enlarge them much. small diameter keeps gas speed up. Robert.

marketing. head should be the same! seen the "o2 advantage" on a vzj95r prado with a 5vz-fe? it didn't come with oxygen sensors from the factory and yet it still had the o2 advantage!! maybe the o2 advantage was the o2 molecules that it used in the combustion process? marketing!! Robert.

all you kids with corollas doing engine rebuilds - better to take months and months and spend all your money on it that to do a not quite satisfactory job and have to re do it!! Robert.

core tubes don't look that bad..... I'll get a radiator place to disassemble it and have a gawk and clean it and we will see. its been flushed quite a few times since I've owned the car.... motor had some bad noises and oil pressure issues as well - I wasn't happy with the rebuild. I'm going to measure it up and probably put new pistons/rings in it, and new main bearings and thrust washers at least.... Robert.