rob83ke70

My parents came over today and brought a crapload of stuff over from when i was a kid... only halfway through sorting it I found this.... *edit* and unfortuntely i seem to be logged in as rob |blink|

if it starts but dies when the pedal is pressed then the accelerator pump probably isn't doing its thing.... the plunger might be torn or something. Robert.

thats my first problem: 185/60r13 isn't easy to find in a nice tyre. second problem: running low on the money.... and I have tyres everywhere, so I'm hoping to make do on something I already have and don't have to purchase for the time being. Car is going to be a daily driver. 175/70 is a tad smaller rolling diameter than 155/80 or 165/75, but thats a start |blink| Robert.

sounds like you have a fuel delivery problem. test the spark, if it is good spark and nothing has changed (lead order etc) from when it was running, then you obviously are not getting proper fuel delivery. assuming fuel pump works, and there is fuel in carburettor, see if the accellerator pump works... robert.

I have a ke11 currently fitted with 185/70r13 tyres, still the 4x110 pcd. The tyres are worn out, and are too big, they only *just* clear the inner part of the wheel arch, and they scrub on the chassis/wheel arch at full lock. I have two brand new 155/80r13 tyres which are *apparently* a little smaller in rolling diameter, and two good (but old) 165/75r13 tyres as well. I was thinking that I should put the new tyres on the front and the old but still good/legal tyres on the back, and seeing as they are theoretically a bit smaller rolling diameter they should all fit..... in theory at least. just wondering what size tyres everybody is running on ke1x series corollas... if somebody else has either of these two sizes that they can confirm to fit correctly then I'd be very very happy |blink| wouldn't want to fit the tyres and find they scrub!! my suspension i hope is relatively standard, i have 6 leaves per pack in the rear, which is not stock, and it might be a smidge lower, but the 185/70r13's seem to fit on the rear... front i think is standard... I had a post in the wanted to buy section as well for a radiator and/or gearbox crossmember for a ke11.... haven't heard anything from anybody yet.... feel free to message me if you know where I can get these bits :hmm: Robert.

1mz-fe out of a camry would be really nice..... some custom work would be involved though making it north/south. the 3vz-fe out of a camry/hilux or 5vz-fe would be interesting as well. the 1gr-fe or better still the 2gr-fe out of the aurion/prado/hilux would also be really really interesting.... Robert.

now that is interesting. the 418 goes in a lot of upside down applications, eg a 1gr-fe and a 1kd-ftv in the latest hiluxes, and they don't seem to have oil pressure issues. It is probably a much better filter than the 68. and I know that it fits on a corolla too, I've seen one fitted mistakenly to a camry with a 2az-fe, which is normally a 432, and I've also seen a 386 fitted mistakenly to a 1az-fe in a rav4. conclusion to come to: 68, 418, 432, 386, 9, and probably a stack of others all will fit a k motor. Next oil change I'm fitting 418's and I will see how they go!! Robert.

z386 is a generic part number. my orders of preference for aftermarket parts are: 1 - nippon max (made by wesfil) 2 - ryco 3 - coopers but sometimes the quality and construction may vary, depending upon what part it is. I do see a lot of filters (oil fuel air and cabin) over the course of a day. Robert.

if your idle speed is too high it will run on upon turning the ignition off. carbon in the engine can cause this, lean air fuel mixtures at idle, combustion chamber temperature too high, or too far advanced timing. I'd run 8-10 degrees timing, and 91 octane fuel should be fine. If it still runs on with that, you have another problem. Go to a subaru dealership, and buy a can of "subaru upper engine cleaner" and spray it down the carburettor throat, half the can with the engine off (at operating temperature) and the other half the can with it running just fast enough not to stall. Basically as per the instructions on the can. Set the timing, set the idle speed, make sure your manifold bolts and carburettor bolts are tight, and that your cooling system is working well. If there is any doubt about the cooling system then run a chemical flush through the system, and make sure your radiator is clean and your thermostat works. Robert.

piece of packing strap, slide a loop of it in between the door and the body (where the rubber is) so you are holding both ends, wiggle it down to the door lock button, hook it around the button, and with some creativity, pop the button up. I've seen little bits of sandpaper attached to the packing strap or even sticky tape, depending upon creativity. If you are patient enough and talented enough you don't need any extras, just that blue packing strap. No damage done to the car either. there will now be a whole spate of corollas stolen :dance: Robert.

about the same quality as some motor mechanics workmanship obviously..... My extractors weren't quite right, and my porting job was a bit more rushed and not as neat as yours either. when the ke55 engine comes apart I *might* pull the head off and tweak it some more, I wasn't overly happy with that cylinder head and the ports need to be matched up properly, some time and experience is a wonderful thing for doing that job. I love it how I work on cars at work, and work on cars at home, and the two jobs rarely seem like the same thing. I should really really be working on cars on weekends too and I just haven't been motivated to do anything on weekends :wink: which is really really unusual for me. Robert.

with the only exception being a viscous paper type (think the subaru genuine equivalent of an a360, or maybe a nissan genuine part as well) which you aren't supposed to clean, when they get dirty you just replace them..... I've always cleaned them with compressed air as well, after about 30-40k km despite having no muck coming out when you clean them they block up bad enough to cause carby cars not to idle and all sorts of stuff...... I try to avoid viscous paper type elements..... I have to say I'm not a fan of the "non-disposable" type k&n filters either, they don't get cleaned out regularly and don't seem to be as good as a clean oem type filter.

that is the general gist of it. every service, (or more frequently if under severe operating conditions) it should be "cleaned" with compressed air, I'd like to emphasise that part, the compressed air, and it should be replaced at a set interval determined by the manufacturer, or more frequently in severe operating conditions. I want to find this in workshop manuals specifically, to prove a point though!! The point being that taking a filter out, banging it on the ground a few times to dislodge some of the crap in it and reinstalling is a bodgy half-arsed way of doing a job, and the customer is really not getting what they are paying for. Robert.

Hi Just as a little bit of personal research, I'm looking for factory workshop manual descriptions of how to clean an air filter out during a vehicle service. Toyota workshop manuals would be brilliant to use, as I do work on a reasonable number of *j120r prado's, zze122r corollas, and lots of **v36 and **v40 camry's. I would also like any decriptions of how to change the brake fluid as part of a service, the correct procedure out of factory workshop manuals would also be good. Both the prado setups would be good, the pressurised nitrogen booster as well as the traditional vacuum booster. I know this is very very basic, but I'm just trying to find some solid definite factory instructions to prove a point. My first year tafe booklet does state that to change brake fluid, I need to replace the fluid in the reservoir, and then drain fluid through each wheel cylinder until NEW brake fluid appears. I can't however find a reference to cleaning air filters correctly, It was probably assumed to be basic knowledge..... Robert.

redwarf, how did the z9 go as far as oil pressure on startup? they have a pretty good anti drain valve in them because the aftermarket z9's had such a bad rep for poor oil pressure at startup when they first came out, and they fit every falcon 6 cylinder up until the bf (which takes a z516) so everybody lifted their game.... Toyota in Orange don't stock the filter for a 4k engine :jamie: I was thinking about using something different, maybe a z418, or a z386, or even the z9 in a nippon max flavour, they seem to be closest to oem parts. Robert.

We recently purchased a ke30 with a 3k engine, not running, previous owner unsure as to why.... had tried a new distributor, and a new coil. Vehicle didn't come with a coil when we picked it up. Anyway, upon fitment of a new coil, I cranked it over, it backfired a few times through the carburettor, so I pulled the cap of the distributor to find that the leads were hooked up in the wrong order.... upon hooking them up in the 1342 order, I fired the engine up and it seems to run quite well..... lesson to be learnt: keep it simple!!! engines only need three things to run, air/fuel mix, compression, and spark at the right time.... Time to remove this engine to go in the ke11 daily driver now :jamie: Robert.

I have a borgwarner in the ke11. not all jap then.

please elaborate? does it go well? is it noisy? how many mufflers have you got? I have a 3k going into a ke11 in stock or close to stock form (for now) that needs a good exhaust. Robert.

The last thin nasty stuff I had to weld up (exhaust mufflers) I got the mig out at work, and looked at the settings on it, figured that the apprentice was the last to use it so it so it should be set on heaps more current than it actually needs, dropped it down a few notches, dropped the wire speed down a bit, and did two small test runs, got it reasonably nice, and welded the muffler.... very confidence inspiring actually, I was happy with the result. I have seat mounts to weld and reinforce on a ke11 in the near future, and a number of seat belt mounting points that desperately need reinforcing. I can't believe I'm going over basic safety issues that the factory weren't worried about, although I suppose this was 40 years ago. I have to weld some metal up on the transmission tunnel as well as a previous owner has cut massive holes in several places possibly for different gearboxes that its had in it over the years. This thread is rather confidence inspiring in terms of mig usage, I've never been *that* confident on a mig, but I'm feeling a lot more positive. Next step is to buy a mig for the garage now, bit hard to take ke11 in bits and no engine to work and back to weld stuff. The general consensus is that a mig is better than an oxy welding kit for body repairs? I was told the other way around when I was at tafe doing welding (briefly for a mechanical trade qualification). I have an oxy kit, but no gas bottles. I'm reasonably confident using an oxy to weld too. What would be the downfall of using an oxy for body repair jobs? It has been suggested that you should not weld exhausts up with oxy, something about it rusting out? I'm very confused, everybody has a different story!!! I was told mig would put more heat into the panels and warp them, or that the mig welds are really hard and can't be filed flat, then somebody else told me that oxy welds can't be filed back or that they use more heat than the mig.... Anyway, some of that body work in those photos looks really really really good. Robert.

fit the heatshield to it and they last a lot longer.... relay and good wiring is also a good idea. easy to test a starter motor, apply power via jumper leads to it when its out of the car and observe. Robert.

I want someone to make a straight through 1.5" exhaust for a near stock engine and see how it goes, noise and performance wise..... Robert.

I've had more than a fair share of dramas with ryco, there was a faulty batch that split around where the housing crimped onto the end piece, at least one dumped enough oil to stuff the bearings :lolcry: I'm not too sure about aftermarket cartridge filters either having had horrible dramas with faulty filters for peugeot dw10bted4 engines and horrible dramas with an audi q7 v6 tdi filter.... All filters have an "anti drain back valve" these days.... how well it works is another story. I'm not too sure that I'm sold on the pf34 ac delco filters that I currently have either. Probably go back to either ryco, or a nippon max something or other that fits, anybody using a z432 or maybe a z63 on a 4k? Robert.

put a small port/fitting into the manifold on the opposite side to the brake booster line, and get a vac advance valve that cuts vacuum below a certain level (ie turns manifold vac into ported vac) and hook it up. Much better fuel economy and drivability with vacuum advance. Failing this, get the dizzy recurved without the vac advance, although they say this is more appropriate for race cars. I run a catch can vented to the atmosphere rather than a pcv system as it actually seemed to suck too much air into the manifold (short little lynx thing for twin su carburettors) and the idle speed would increase to about 1800rpm as the temperature rose.... you may or may not have similar dramas... Robert.

Oh, the front diff is different and separate to the auto (or am I thinking of a 3vz-fe??) and takes regular 75w90 gear oil. It was either the avalon or a camry that I saw that on... Robert.

they take tqd III fluid, (normal dex III) and I'd change it when you buy it and change it every 45k (avalons I'm sure are a 15k interval) regardless of what the service book says (it probably does have an interval). Can't say I've ever seen one die, but I've seen plenty of black fluid come out and plenty more with discoloured fluid that I didn't get to change..... I swear sometimes, cars should get priority over customers..... would make it so much better for us poor sods buying used cars, its a shame it doesn't work like that though :S Robert.