rob83ke70

if you are after ke20 lowering blocks, I have a set that are NOT going to be used on our ke20... where abouts are you? I'm in orange nsw. Robert.

if you hold it in place does it stay? if there is load on the engine (accellerating or decellerating) does it stay? does it physically push the gearstick back out of gear or does it slip loosely out of gear? Internal gearbox problems either way, just working out what exactly is causing it... Robert.

ahhh now I remember, a 34adm off a falcon has an oval hole on top, the dgv has the square/rectangle stepped hole like your carburettor, and the dhsa2 I had was a diamond shaped hole. Robert.

Hey Looking at putting a DGV on a Toyota 4y engine, the trouble is that it NEEDS a CAI style duct on the carburettor to hook it up to an LPG mixer and the rest of the air ducting. Just wondering if anyone running a DGV had a CAI setup and where abouts you bought the air duct adaptor from? was it hideously expensive?? Robert.

clean the block carefully with a gasket scraper, or failing that, a wood chisel, rasor blade, or something similar. clean it carefully and try not to gouge it or leave marks in it. very fine sandpaper and wd40 can also work, or a large flat grindstone with wd40 can also be helpful. Obviously if its a cast block you get away with a lot more, be VERY VERY careful on aluminium blocks and cylinder heads. Check the head for straightness with a ruler or similar. A machine shop probably won't charge for a hardness test either (it takes about 5 seconds) which might be a good idea. Robert.

it mustn't be the borate esters that are the problem then. and it SHOULD be ok in a dot 3 system as well. Robert.

fairly sure you wouldn't want to go over 36 degrees total. if you have a cam or increased compression you might want more initial and have it get to the total a bit faster. Robert.

be skeptical of what you read on the internet at times... dot 3 and dot 4 are both glycol based fluids and are very similar bar the boiling point spec to the best of my knowledge. dot 5 and dot 5.1 are silicone fluids i think? and they are different. Be on the safe side and put the blue brake fluid in, it looks cool anyway :) Robert.

it is still exactly the same? if you pour some fuel in the carburettor, then start it, if you keep the revs up will it continue to run? have you checked the fuel pump? Robert.

get a straight through muffler of some description that is the same inside diameter as your current exhaust, make sure it is perforated tube inside, and pop a chrome tip the same size as your exhaust and muffler on the end of it, it will sound much much much much much nicer than a canon. better still, have a chat to your exhaust shop, get a triple S style muffler the same size as your exhaust tip, they sound much nicer than a stock muffler and it won't drone or be too loud on your car. It will sound nice enough to get attention hopefully without the police writing you defects. I had a triple S muffler on my ke70, stock as a rock, and it sounded really really really nice. Everybody thought I had something done to the car, it just sounded so much better than a stock corolla. I think quiet and fast is brilliant, loud and fast is still good, quiet and slow can be tolerated, and I cannot stand driving loud slow cars!!! I drove a subaru impreza gx (shopping trolley version) with a canon, some weird resonator thingie and an exhaust far to big for it. also had fully sic chromies and far too much subwoofer with no taste in music.... but anyway the point is, it was louder by far than any wrx i've driven, and the ke55 would have EATEN it... I'm still laughing at that tosser, he's got no idea though :jamie: Robert.

lol exactly why you don't see me drinking on the job!! two beers and I wouldn't be able to reliably and effectively service a car let alone repair something. Robert.

its all good :jamie: rear swaybar would probably be really really good upgrade.... I've never really had too much of a drama with how zze's handle, although I've never really driven one around for a huge amount of time either. traction bothered me a lot in the few I've driven.... buy some sticky tyres (not stupidly low profile either) and some nice lightweight rims... on a side note, nothing is worse than hard mostly worn out rubber, tyre shine, and carrying slightly too much speed around a right angle corner... Robert.

drain fluids. unbolt things until there is just a cylinder head left on the block (ie take manifolds and timing belt/chain off) undo head bolts in little increments at a time starting from the outside and working your way in (opposite order to when you do them up) remove cylinder head. go nuts and clean everything!! make sure bores are still cross hatched and nothing looks overly broken/corroded. clean surface of block. get head skimmed, valves vac tested, head hardness tested, and if you are really thorough head should be pressure tested. put new head gasket on (make sure its correct way around and up). if they are torque to yield bolts (they will be tightened like 30nm then 90degrees then 90degrees again) then they MIGHT be good for ONE more use, as long as they are not stretched and don't bottom out in the thread or anything. probably safer to replace them. if they are conventional bolts (ie 30nm then 68nm then 90nm sequence or similar) then you can probably reuse them, just make sure the threads are clean, and they aren't damaged somehow. pop some oil on the threads and under the heads of the bolts. place cylinder head carefully in position, follow tightening torque sequence and order that comes with head gasket. installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, ie bolt everything back on carefully, make sure valve timing is correct, turn engine over by hand two turns to make sure nothing hits anything internally, and carefully reassemble the rest of it. workshop manual will make your life much much easier. Robert.

can anyone confirm one way or another whether a k series stud spacing on the carburettor is the same as a y series carburettor? looking at putting a dgv onto a y series engine (2.2lt) and I'm working out the cheapest easiest way to do it. Robert.

in order of preference: WD40 impact (ie a hammer or similar) longer leverage brute force repeat steps as long as you have patience apply heat start at "impact" and work your way down again. we had a hell of a time getting a idler arm off a landrover defender a few months back.... there was a hydraulic puller involved, bars over a meter in length, a considerable amount of wd40 and brute force, and then finally a considerable amount of heat..... it took maybe 5 hours to get it off... not nice. Robert.

I reckon that you should keep it on the off chance someone will want it. But I have a horribly habit of storing parts like that... My ke30 had its original am radio and speaker in the dashboard when I bought it, I drove around listening to abc (over a very loud exhaust) for months... then I finally (butchered it a little) fitted an fm unit and speakers, and drove around listening to triple j... Robert.

if you put a cam in it and get it all built and tuned right you will need a shorter (higher number) diff, eg a 4.3, or maybe even higher ratio again (but that gets complicated finding the bits and fitting them). if you have a 4.3 or shorter and a loud exhaust then highway speeds get somewhat deafening. A five speed will improve this slightly by about 500rpm, but the best solution is for a quieter exhaust or a larger engine and taller diff. Thats your choices there :) Robert.

generally, if you are planning on keeping the car for a long time, take the manufacturer's interval and halve it. eg, toyota say to change engine oil and filter every 10,000km, I'd change it every 5000km. Peugeot say to change the engine oil and filter every 20,000km, I'd change it every 10,000km. Hyundai say to change the engine oil and filter every 15,000km, I'd change it every 7500km. If the car is nearly new and you are only planning on keep it to 100-150,000km then I'd change it exactly as per manufacturer's instructions. Always use the correct oil for the application as well. Robert.

dealerships.... get it in and out as fast as you can to do as much as you can so the figures on paper look good and the service manager doesn't get fired.... that is how it works... if you take a car to a mechanic, find one that you like and stay with the one mechanic. follow him/her if they change jobs, as long as you are happy with them that is ;) I've seen/heard that brake fluid stunt before, I would NOT do it that way and if I was told to I'd complain higher up the hierachy. If that didn't work I'd find another job. I'm not into doing bodgy shit and I never will be. I treat all cars as if they were my own, sometimes this causes me stress, but I'll live with that. Dealerships don't understand, you can either compete with other workshops on price, which they can't/won't do, or quality. If customers get these better elsewhere they will go elsewhere. Robert.

not quite.... 2000 forester gt would be ej20 turbo, and would have had the christ flogged out of it all its life... the synchros in the gearbox normally die if its a manual, and if the engine has had a hard time and poor service history it wouldn't be hard to do a big end bearing in... if its been "modified" and given a hard time it wouldn't be hard to melt a piston or similar. Nice car, but you'd have to be really careful about buying one. Robert.

lol damn right.... pay peanuts and get monkeys... Robert.

oil rings gum up something chronic in A series engines I'm told... maybe a "stop leak" additive if the valve stem seals are hard as they soften rubber seals.... but this is assuming that your burning oil anyway, you might just have not enough put in the sump... fill it and monitor it first. Robert.

HPR30 in a penrite flavour is going to go in my (smokey) 7afe next oil change... Make sure you use a good oil that puts up with the stress from DOHC and all that stuff ;) Robert.

not quite sure on ke15 as I've never worked on anything earlier than ke30... but My guess is lots of WD40 or similar, have a coffee and wait for it to soak in. leave the tie rod ends in plaec in the car so they don't move, grab the tie rod itself with vice grips nice and tight, and try and undo it in a jerky motion rather than a gradual pressure... once it has "cracked" then it should come undone without too much drama. Should it continue to be difficult, you may need to do one full turn, then back half a turn, then another full turn, then back half a turn and continue until you have it undone... Robert.

I'm going to point out that playing with the coil springs shouldn't do very much at all to the ride height as the leaf takes most of the weight..... I'd get the spring reset. Robert.