DearmanKE Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 ok so i have a ke70 with a stock 4k with a 2inch exhuast and single striaght through muffler, first a short backstory about 2 weeks ago a coolant hose blew all over my coil and balast resister and my car was stranded not starting(no spark) on the side of the road, i bypassed the ballast resister and it then had spark and ran fine after i put coolant in it and cleaned out the distributer of coolant obviously. Since then i have had the ballast resister bypassed the whole time. the car has always had a little bit of a rough idle probly due to slightly advanced timeing, because if i back it off it is just the sluggiest thing in the world. but it doesnt ping under load still /END Backstory Last night at about 11pm when i went to get in my car to leave my friends house it would not start (usually it starts right up in the cold early mornings and just needs a minute to warm up before it will idle) i checked for spark from the coil and nothing. so i got my friend to drive me home. anyway today afterwork i went there with a number of tools to have a go at getting it running i sprayed some crc in the dzzy inc ase it was condesnation holding the points shut. that didint work i changed the coil to a second hand one i had lying around, that didint work either(but i left it in) i messed arouynd with the points gap and timing trying to get it to spark, eventually i got an offbeat spark after adjusting the pointsw(i had no feeloer guages so it was a guesstimate). i then adjusted the timing a little and the offbeat spark became a consistant spark, tho it was blue it didnt look strong and could onnly jump a small gap. tryed starting again, still nothing got pissed off and left it for a while thinking it may have been flooded from trying to start so much. came back and jump started it(as the battery was getting abit flat by this time) it started up after 5 or 6 cranks, and was idling very high, around 2,000 rpm, and sounded like a rotor, (like it was missing) i quick drove it home bfor it had any second thoughts it was very down on power at anything under 2grand, ud have to rev it and slip the clutch a little to get it to take off, but seamed to go fine when revving it was popping alot on deceleration, more than usual, and missing alot on idle, tho idling high still now that its home, i checked the dwell angle and it was 61, so i adjusted the points and got it down to 44 (its meant to be 46) it is running only slighhtly better, i messed aroiund with the timing but no timing setting seams to make it idle smoothly, i got the idle down to 1,000 by adjusting the timing, but it was stilo very sluggish downlow like it didint want to pick up engine speed till 2-2.5k it idles very loudly, more so than it used to, which makes me think that it might be overfueling? (no idea why or how) so anyway, can anyone give me some pointers, i stil am not running a ballast resister and still have the non-original coil in place -ALex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DearmanKE Posted July 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 anyone :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DearmanKE Posted July 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 ok soo the car was running and i decided to change the dizzy to another one i had now that the dizzy is out i can't get it back in pointing the right way on tdc, i didint mark it but i checked wher it should be pointing on tdc with my shed 4k. it only goes in all the way in 2 locations 180 degrees opposite eachother and each one wil not start, also i am not getting a spark from the coil reguardless of dizzy position....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted July 9, 2009 Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 You can use a screwdriver to turn the oil pump to align it for the tang at the base of the dizzy. Go HERE and read the Camshaft Replacement article. It outlines how the dizzy should be setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DearmanKE Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 well its working now, had a few simple problems first of all the main ignition lead had a hgh resistance value so i changed it and bam i had spark again then it was a matter of putting the dizzy in at tdc and aligning the rotor with lead 1, i had to turn it 180 degrees after that as it jsut backfired. and then it worked.. as for the high/loud idling, the choke was seized on... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 If it works like a Datsun, then the coil is an 8volt unit and the ballast resistor drops the 12volt ignition power down to 8volts for normal running. When you crank the engine to start it however the ballast is bypassed and the system feeds 12volts into the 8volt coil. This makes up for the voltage drop due to the starter motor dragging massive power from the battery. So if you bypass the ballast permanently you will feed 12volts into the 8volt coil continuously, something that will damage it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob83ke70 Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 glad somebody pointed that out, that was exactly the point I wished to make. Robert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DearmanKE Posted July 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 yes thanks guys, i am well aware it may damage my coil, not overly fussed i have many spares Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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