demuire Posted May 31, 2005 Report Share Posted May 31, 2005 Has anyone ever had to replace one of these? I've been told that AE86 uni joints are non-serviceable items, so the entire yoke etc has to be replaced, or the old uni machined out (both of which = lots of money)? I've got a strange vibration in the car since the incident that I'm still trying to pin point, it's speed related, so I'm guessing it'll be wheels, diff, tailshaft, or something in between. I've gotten the wheels rebalanced, so that *shouldn't* be it. I keep having nightmares of my tailshaft letting go, and considering I don't have a tailshaft loop that could get quite unpleasant quite quickly. I'm going to replace all the tailshaft bolts just for peace of mind (they were a bit old and yucky), just wondering about the unis... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted June 1, 2005 Report Share Posted June 1, 2005 I can confirm this for you later tonight if you want, I haven't had the chance to have a good look at mine yet.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demuire Posted June 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2005 Someone on Twincam16 recommended using nyloc nuts for tailshaft bolts. With nyloc nuts, would you still use spring washers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted June 1, 2005 Report Share Posted June 1, 2005 I'd use spring washers on any nut you don't want undoing itself.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demuire Posted June 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2005 They're supposed to be grade 8.8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super Jamie Posted June 1, 2005 Report Share Posted June 1, 2005 a properly torqued and sprung pinion flange bolt won't let go. if you don't do the nuts up tight enough or your spring washers are flat then you could have a problem. nylocs would be extra security, but i wouldn't say you "need" them the reason people run tailshaft loops is more to prevent damage as a result of the uni snapping, and it's almost always the front uni that snaps, being the one that gets the shock loading from the output shaft of the gearbox i'll put it this way. andra regulations state a 9 second or better car has to have a tailshaft loop on the front uni, so they're obviously not worried about the back snapping either there's not really alot of room to mount a loop that would be useful at the rear either, and it would have to be massively tall to handle the up-down motion of the diff. this increase is size would limit its effectiveness i'd measure tailshaft runout before machining the unis. you can check sideplay in the uni joints by tapping lightly sideways on the tailshaft with a hammer. they shouldn't have any sideways movement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwarf Posted June 1, 2005 Report Share Posted June 1, 2005 Someone on Twincam16 recommended using nyloc nuts for tailshaft bolts. With nyloc nuts, would you still use spring washers? I have nylocs and I don't use spring washers. There's no requirement. However, in theory, nylocs should only be used once, although I just change them on condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demuire Posted June 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2005 Ah well, I now have nyloc nuts, and spring washers, and I even used loctite too. Can you tell I'm really paranoid about stuff falling off my car now? Admittedly the spring washers aren't in the best condition (they didn't have any the right size, such is life shopping for hardware in the city), they aren't too far off from flat but they're still sort of springy, so I guess they'll still do something. I'd really like a tailshaft loop. If for nothing else, then for more peace of mind. I worry too much. And I whinge too. In my very untrained eye, my uni joins look ok. But I really wouldn't have a clue. They're there, and they don't look like they're about to fall out. Diff appears to have a bit of play in it that I haven't noticed before, not sure why. Hope it wasn't damaged the other day, that would suck a lot. Have noticed that I seem to be unable to spin up both wheels now, but then again I also seem to have trouble spinning any wheels at all. Maybe putting the exhaust manifold bolts back on (3 of them were loose, along with all the rear rocker cover bolts) took away some of the power :dance: Or maybe my tyres have mysteriously gotten more sticky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demuire Posted June 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2005 Just reading up more about tailshafts etc, it *sounds* like maybe my tailshaft is out of balance, so it's been suggested to try rotating my tailshaft 90 degrees to the diff (and repeat until no more combinations) and see if that helps... With a tailshaft loop, how far behind the front uni should it be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demuire Posted June 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2005 Oh yeah, if it helps diagnosis at all, the vibrations generally become worse at higher speed, and appears to be worst at 80km/h and 110km/h. If I'm driving along at anywhere post 70km/h, and jump on the clutch, it vibrates very savagely. Come off the clutch, and it quietens down again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super Jamie Posted June 7, 2005 Report Share Posted June 7, 2005 that's wierd, so it's something in the driveline that gets cancelled out by having the mass of the engine to dampen it down it's a possibility that you could have bent the tailshaft or a uni when you put the car on the ground. hard to tell without renewing or replacing if you pull either handbrake on whilst moving does it make any difference? tho that's more troubleshooting shuddering under brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demuire Posted June 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2005 Hmm, I wonder how much a custom tailshaft would cost :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demuire Posted June 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2005 Had a fiddle with the tailshaft, tried to see if there was any play in the uni's, I can't see any. Kinda hard to tell though, since the gearbox itself moves (rubber mounts). Rotated driveshaft, see if that does anything. Has anyone here put a tailshaft loop into a KE35 (or similar)? I can barely even fit my fingers between the tailshaft and the brake/fuel lines, getting a tailshaft loop to fit with some room for movement is going to be... interesting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super Jamie Posted June 7, 2005 Report Share Posted June 7, 2005 usually a loop consists of 2 L shaped brackets which bolt to the floor, and the loop itself is two u-shaped pieces which bolt to holes in the bracket. i'll get some photos of mine if you want (still sitting in the box :)) even just a bracket which went from one side of the trans tunnel to the other would be good, as long as the tailshaft doesn't hit it as it goes up and down maybe get the tailshaft checked for runout in the middle? a custom carbon fibre shaft is about $1200 all made up ready to bolt in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demuire Posted June 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2005 How much was your bracket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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