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Ke1* Lowering


kE20ME

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considering lowering my ke11 at the front,

 

obviously cutting the springs is an option but i am going to steer clear of that as its dodgey..

 

what setups are people running? brand of dampeners and springs..?

 

i have had a bit of a look around there is not to much out there for ke10's most places only have listings from ke20 onwards..

 

are ke20 front struts different from ke11??

 

any help is greatly appreciated

 

cheers

 

henry :)

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Henry,

 

Lowering the front only will look a bit odd. Back when they came out a lowering block was used on top of the transverse leaf spring that would drop it around 40mm max. Same up the back blocks will do it. These days however resetting the springs is the done thing. Flattening the front leaf will get you upto 50mm + but then you will have to replace the oil strut with an insert shocky. RX7 Mazda will fit in the tube and have the right length of piston travel. Only problem is getting the strut body and spring back in can be a bitch. When setting up the front of mine which was more than a 50mm drop had to have the coil spring reset as well. Rear same thing reset leaf springs with reverse eyes will drop it 50mm + and HQ wagon Shocks will have correct piston travel.

Down side of all this is suspension travel will be so reduced it can be a very choppy ride especially with stiff shock valving. Any half decent suspension place will be able to do the job of spring reset.

 

Cheers Majordad

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah I chopped the shit out of my front springs. I also used ke30 shocks. They have a bit shorter stroke than ke10. Still nowhere near captive springs. Springs are just chopped ke20 not very stiff IMO.

 

I haven’t lowered the back yet. It looks pretty stupid and handled even worse.

 

I’ve also taken out the transverse leaf spring and installed a WhiteLine sway bar.

 

I want to get shorter stroke strut inserts and cut down the strut tube. Or perhaps find a way to use different struts altogether.

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  • 1 month later...

The leaf does most of the work, it's taking most of the spring load while the coils are pretty soft and don't do much. It also acts as a swaybar.

 

Interestingly though, the front end will have a progressive spring rate with this setup. I'd like to see someone actually tune these front end's.

 

People usually swap the KE20 strut tops over and then run a KE20 spring, modified for height. If I were you I'd do that strut top swap, remove the leaf, add a swaybar and talk to Ryan (SLO-030) about getting a set of custom made coils for the front with the spring rate of choice.

 

Dampers are the other issue that I've not really looked into.

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The leaf does most of the work, it's taking most of the spring load while the coils are pretty soft and don't do much. It also acts as a swaybar.

 

Interestingly though, the front end will have a progressive spring rate with this setup. I'd like to see someone actually tune these front end's.

 

People usually swap the KE20 strut tops over and then run a KE20 spring, modified for height. If I were you I'd do that strut top swap, remove the leaf, add a swaybar and talk to Ryan (SLO-030) about getting a set of custom made coils for the front with the spring rate of choice.

 

Dampers are the other issue that I've not really looked into.

 

Thanks Tom.

 

Actually the more I think about it that makes sense. The original coil springs are just too soft so as long as I use stiffer springs and a swaybar without the leaf I should be fine.

 

I was starting to get worried I couldn't lower this thing. It has already been lowered in the back with reset leafs so I want it matching ;)

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