I've heard so many different rumours about rwding a 3S engine that it's hard to make full sense of it. Some people say to put an oil drain on the back of the head on the inlet side, when all the drains are on that side anyhow anyhow.

 

I really wonder if all the fuss is just about people who didn't increase the volume of the sump, ran without a windage tray, and didn't put a baffle on the pickup. The factory 3SGE sump has an integrated factory windage tray and when the spot welds are drilled out, slots into the 2S sump with minimal fuss. There's a baffle right next to the pickup in the fwd sump hiding under the windage tray too. Compare it to the 2S sump and it has 1 useless horizontal baffle where the sump curves, and no integrated windage tray.

 

My plan is to enlarge the 2S sump volume to about 6L, mod the 3S windage tray to suit, and add a few baffles around where the pickup sits. I've heard of many people getting away with the problems like this.

 

I wonder if people who had problems just bolted on a 2S sump and pickup and said "she'll be right"... anyone had some first hand experience with a RWD 3S?

I've heard so many different rumours about rwding a 3S engine that it's hard to make full sense of it. Some people say to put an oil drain on the back of the head on the inlet side, when all the drains are on that side anyhow anyhow.

 

I really wonder if all the fuss is just about people who didn't increase the volume of the sump, ran without a windage tray, and didn't put a baffle on the pickup. The factory 3SGE sump has an integrated factory windage tray and when the spot welds are drilled out, slots into the 2S sump with minimal fuss. There's a baffle right next to the pickup in the fwd sump hiding under the windage tray too. Compare it to the 2S sump and it has 1 useless horizontal baffle where the sump curves, and no integrated windage tray.

 

My plan is to enlarge the 2S sump volume to about 6L, mod the 3S windage tray to suit, and add a few baffles around where the pickup sits. I've heard of many people getting away with the problems like this.

 

I wonder if people who had problems just bolted on a 2S sump and pickup and said "she'll be right"... anyone had some first hand experience with a RWD 3S?

 

Isn't there also an issue with the engine sitting upright in a RWD format where it sits on a ~30 degree angle in FWD format?

 

There's a fair bit of stuff on this (and 3SGTE RWD convos) on Toymods too, maybe worth a trawl?

I've read every thing I can find on the net about it 3 times, hence trying to find people who've done this conversion before...

 

What gets me though is the oil drain people say to fit is on the same side as the 3 large factory oil drains anyhow. I've read in a build thread of on toymods about someone who just put the bigger sump with baffles and had no drama's what so ever with a 3SGTE stood up on the race track. I think some people possibly don't address the windage tray issue, and without it on a revvy motor you'll be sloshing your sump of oil around pretty badly.

If its a series 3 3sgte a decent sump is all that is required,we modified our by extending the pickup and making a trapdoor arrangement.

On a early head extra drain backs are required, also check the condition of the cam journals, they flog out and cause excessive oiling to the head

Yeah I've heard the Gen1's aren't that flash when stood up, but I've read about an RA28 on toymods with a Gen2 3SGTE with just an oversize sump and baffles having no troubles in track conditions.

thanks for your input regarding the ecu. In regards to my sump setup I'm running the standard sump modified with a v6 commodore pan. There are numerous pictures of the engine setup taken by another member Budowski, in my rides thread My Ke36 Panelvan (sorry can't seem to create a link) if that helps. I will be able to take specific pictures of my setup on the weekend if you require.

Edited September 18, 200917 yr by 36panvan