Sam_Q Posted October 24, 2009 Report Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) I would rather convert an ae92 to rwd than drive a commodor. If this guy is dedicated enough, has the means and the time then I say go for it. I mean I do have this weird idea thats been going around in my head for a while: Suzuki mightyboy with a stock looking body but a tube frame with a lengthened wheelbase, wider track and something like a 13B renesis engine for a powerplant. Edited October 24, 2009 by Sam_Q Quote
carwashguru Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Posted October 24, 2009 and how much time would you be prepared to spend on it? The rear end fabrication would be a significantly bigger issue that the transmission tunnel. You would have to chop the floor out and remake the whole thing to probably fit a TA22 diff or something. that is the thing ... i know that the work wll be very time consuming ..... thats why i was thinking if i want rwd i need a rwd to start with ..... as for staying fwd traction is my biggest thing as it is with 205/45/16 the bog stocker will spin all over the place on a hard launch ..... YES I KNOW ITS THE DRIVER B4 YOU ALL JUMP IN !!!!!... lol but even so with the best efforts you still lose alot of the line .... my ? is other then take off with a powerful fwd can you get it on the road as good as a rwd ...... i want to build something i can drive the ass out of ... Quote
carwashguru Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Posted October 24, 2009 go buy a commodore seriously i have a tank already but ty for the helpful feed back Quote
Sam_Q Posted October 24, 2009 Report Posted October 24, 2009 that is the thing ... i know that the work wll be very time consuming ..... thats why i was thinking if i want rwd i need a rwd to start with .....as for staying fwd traction is my biggest thing as it is with 205/45/16 the bog stocker will spin all over the place on a hard launch ..... YES I KNOW ITS THE DRIVER B4 YOU ALL JUMP IN !!!!!... lol but even so with the best efforts you still lose alot of the line .... my ? is other then take off with a powerful fwd can you get it on the road as good as a rwd ...... i want to build something i can drive the ass out of ... yes can't help physics unfortunetly. the drag racing guys chop hole holes out of the rear floor-pan and things like that. I stick with what I said, make some measurements but I would think a TA22 read diff would be the right width. One catch is that its 4 x 114 instead of 4 x 100 that you have now, can be re-dilled though. You would also probably need a custom fuel tank because knowing toyota they used last bit of room back there to fit it in. Jack up your car and have a good look in the back. Quote
carwashguru Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Posted October 24, 2009 yes can't help physics unfortunetly. the drag racing guys chop hole holes out of the rear floor-pan and things like that. I stick with what I said, make some measurements but I would think a TA22 read diff would be the right width. One catch is that its 4 x 114 instead of 4 x 100 that you have now, can be re-dilled though. You would also probably need a custom fuel tank because knowing toyota they used last bit of room back there to fit it in. Jack up your car and have a good look in the back. was thinking that (yet to look at it closly ) useing a commodore front strut as to be able to running vt rotors and callipers ... hence a shortend lsd commodore diff ... giving it 4 w disc and lsd ... an d a shortend tail shaft ... you may think why the fascination with commodore .... I'm thinking cost ... to buy a wrecked vs manual would cost around 500 to 750 mark ... yes some cost involed with the shorting of diffs and sharts but the bulk cost of the motor ,box , ecu ect ect is far cheaper then jap half cuts and also long tern part are cheap and easy to get .... thought s? Quote
Sam_Q Posted October 24, 2009 Report Posted October 24, 2009 I don't know about the fitment of the buick V6, not my personal choice but unlike some other people in this forum I acknowledge its not my car and hence it's not my choice to make. I still think the biggest time issue is the rear end. Here is my suggestion: - Go find a stock car with the donor diff in it: get yourself a digital angle gauge and measure the angles of the top and bottom bars, ignore the pan-hard, I will explain why later. - Have your car as it is now with the ride height that you want on a flat surface that you will do all your work on. - You will need to be able to have something like blocks of wood cut so it goes off the ground to the sub-frame to hold it to that exact ride height, jack stands won't do unless your unusually lucky to get the exact height you need with one of their settings. Then when your ready jack the car up, strip the whole rear end, take the fuel tank out and chop out the sheet metal around the sub-frame in the rear section. - Sit it on the blocks of wood and hold your new diff into place, measure it from either side to make it central and put your digital angle gauge on the pinion to make sure its 90 or 3 degrees off 90 from the ground. A block of wood off the ground to the diffs nose will do the trick here as well. - Using all the original bars of the donor diff move one trailing arm at a time up to the right angle, if it hits sheet metal before getting to the right angle then chop it right out. If it hits the subframe then take the diff out and move the mounts on the diff; most likely inwards. - With the arms going to the right angle, fabricate mounts to hold them there - With that done on your 4 main upper and lower trailing arms it's time for your pan-hard, this unlike the other bars is fairly simple. This bar can be shortened to suit and should be done last. Make it as long as possible so the mount needs to be on the other far side. As for the angle it's simple: 0 degrees. - Take the springs out and lower your car right down without the wood in there and lower it until there is about maybe 30mm of clearence off the ground. If it can't do this then chop out whatever is in the way including the sub frame. Remake the subframe if needed of the same profile or larger. This is a good change to remake the floorpan, put some ripples in it for strength. - Fit your springs and dampners and your set Also avoid shortening your diff arms, doing so will mess with your geometry. Holden don't have a good grasp of anything like that but still it's some weird voodoo shit that you could make even more wrong that what they have. don't even think about IRS Comments? Quote
Sam_Q Posted October 24, 2009 Report Posted October 24, 2009 before I continue do you think your possibly up for spending literally hundreds of hours on doing this? its very much a one way road if you start. Quote
towe001 Posted October 24, 2009 Report Posted October 24, 2009 1mz but thinking i might lack the room for it .... ? From memory 2mz is about the biggest you'd be able to go without forced induction, a re-doing of the intake manifold, custom driveshafts and a button for the traction control. Its what i was looking into when i had my old ae82 seca. Another thing that i had a brief idea of was the back end of the ae95 4wd Quote
MYSTIK[RL] Posted October 24, 2009 Report Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) Its what i was looking into when i had my old ae82 seca. Another thing that i had a brief idea of was the back end of the ae95 4wd ae95 4wd rear ends are an offset diff :S Edited October 24, 2009 by MYSTIK Quote
MYSTIK[RL] Posted October 24, 2009 Report Posted October 24, 2009 Its what i was looking into when i had my old ae82 seca. Another thing that i had a brief idea of was the back end of the ae95 4wd ae95 4wd rear ends have an offset rear diff :S Quote
Sam_Q Posted October 24, 2009 Report Posted October 24, 2009 thats good thinking, offset diff or not all the linkages and that would be in place and known to be right. When re-sizing a diff just make it off to one side more and use all the original linkages and metal of the ae95 Quote
carwashguru Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Posted October 24, 2009 thats good thinking, offset diff or not all the linkages and that would be in place and known to be right. When re-sizing a diff just make it off to one side more and use all the original linkages and metal of the ae95 thanks sam for some detailed fed back ... the rear end is going to be the toughest part no doubt....ae 95 4wd diff great idea... i am thinking that if i go with the rwd that i will buy another daily driver so that i don't have to walk lol... with all in mind that you have said sam i think the plan will be strip the old girl out and play with a few options in the diff department as i am lucky enough to have a mate that manages a wrecking yard so i will be able to borrow a diff here and there to get an idea of what will be the best one to use. Quote
carwashguru Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) yes and it will be a go hard or go home job cus once started its either finished ..... or scraped .... and yes there will be silly hours spent... and ty towe re the 4wd diff ! Edited October 24, 2009 by carwashguru Quote
Sam_Q Posted October 24, 2009 Report Posted October 24, 2009 whats your location anyway? I might be able to help you also Quote
carwashguru Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Posted October 24, 2009 whats your location anyway? I might be able to help you also mackay in north qld Quote
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