guys about a week ago I noticed my corolla was down on power and there was some exhaust fumes gettnig in the car, but not too bad at that stage. Only a few days before this I had ran the tank almost dry, and the car seemed to have definate flat spots in the power so I figured the reason for the loss in power was because the carby was blocked with shit. replaced all fuel lines and filter and cleaned the jets in the carby. Flat spots were definately gone but car still felt noticebly down in power and exhaust fumes were getting worse. I figured the muffler was blocked as I had just noticed the exhaust sounded different but thought I was imagining it till this point. Anyways long story short I've just replaced the entire exhaust system and the exhaust fumes are just as bad if not worse, drove the car for 5 minutes and had to pull over and get out because I was feeling dizzy and getting headaches....and I don't know if I'm just imagining it or not but I swear the 2" exhaust and lukey muffler isn't any louder than the stock 1" pea shooter I took off

 

anyone got any ideas what is going on? cause it can't be good for me driving it around with a cabin full of fumes like this

 

thanks guys

Dave

the boot seal's probably perished, that would cause exhaust fumes to suck into the cabin

 

your power problem sounds ignition related. replace the points and condendser and set the timing. perhaps you need new ignition leads, perhaps you need new spark plugs, perhaps you need a new ignition coil, perhaps the distributor needs rebushing

 

it could also be an intermittent vacuum leak in the manifold or carby plate or brake booster (if applicable)

thanks for the tip about the boot seal, never even stopped to think stationwagon tailgate + exhaust tip = very close :P I'll check that now

 

don't think my power dramas are ignition

leads, points, plugs, dizzy and coil are all new

 

I'm sure the power problem is fuel related, I have a spare carby here I'll strip and clean out during the week if I get the chance then just swap them, still pissed off about the exhaust etc though...this is a copy and paste of a follow up post I made on another board after my original message, too long to type it all out again

 

"hmmmm just got a chance to get the car up and get under it

the exhaust shop has only replaced from the back seat to the tip

not happy jan

I specifically said to him that I think I have an exhaust leak replace the whole lot

he's left the factory 1" pipe from the headers to the resonator which is right back just before the diff then just replaced it from the resonator back, the leak is obviously before this

 

the workshop closed at 1pm and I wont get time again to take it in till next saturday not happy at all

 

he's also not been able to fit the muffler properly so he's cut a piece off one of the leaf spring straps so the muffler would fit

 

so $150 and all he did was replace the muffler and put about a foot of 2" pipe hanging out the back

 

I also got a wheel alignment done at the same time and when I let got of the wheel now he car veers pretty sharply to the left

 

oh and if I wanted to get really picky the end up the pipe hanging out the back of the car looks like it was cut with a hacksaw jagged pieces hanging off it and the exhaust looks like it's rubbing on the shocky"

the exhaust has probably been cut with a drop saw, as per most exhaust shops. this is nothing out of the ordinary, tho they should clean up the END of the pipe geez. a hacksaw would leave a clean cut

 

sounds like you got had, damn :P

 

www.nardek.com.au sell cheap carby kits for KE corollas. part number 90-6

what body is this?

i still have this problem with my '18....i replaced all the seals, i filled the holes where the bumper goes in with expanding foam. if you turn the tailpipe out to the side, it will fix a LOT of the leakage. don't drive with your winDOW down, either all the way up, or BOTH all the way down.

also i have yet to replace the plastic sheeting inside the quarter panels.

wagons are a bitch when it comes to fumes

oh, does your carb have an a.s.s. valve on the side of it?

if so, remove the little fuel line and plug it, it will run lean and stink, but it will help your mileage, and reduce your carbon monoxide

Is it possible that the fumes are coming through your firewall. Years ago with a standard exhaust, i had a manifold leak and a flange leak. I found that a lot of the fumes came in through unplugged holes in the firewall. I simply put grommets in the holes.

The hole where my gear shifter came through the tunnel was also not sealing well - so fumes used to sneak in there too. I just put a few more screws into the metal plate that holds the rubber boot in place.

My car is a sedan incase its relevant.

Jamie was spot on the money with the exhaust smell ... thanks jamie :P

here's me looking for all the worst case scenario instead of checking the simple stuff first, opened the tailgate and a socket wrench fell out. Had been jammed in the tailgate not letting it completely close, but was obviously jammed in there so tight the tailgate had no movement or I would have heard it wasnt closed properly everytime I went over a bump. With the wrench removed ..... no fumes :D

 

not happy about the exhaust still, but I'm going to just cut my losses and go somewhere else and get the job finished rather than go back.

 

as for the carb will a 32/36 (I think that's what they are) webber off a 2L escort bolt onto my manifold? mate told me last night he's got one there that has recently been rebuilt and ran great on his slightly worked 1.6L escort motor

Edited June 26, 200521 yr by Phat535

and you need an adapter plate

a 32/36 is a little bit too big for a 4K, I ran one on a mild 4K a while ago and it had nothing down low. For a worked 5K-C or 4A-C though, with the correct jetting they would be a lot better.

 

Downdrafts are a bit of a pain in the arse, but a cheap option at the end of the day if you can score a 32/36 on ebay for $50 :P

it's an AE71

has the 4A-C not the 4K

I've had the head shaved and ported, but apart from that it's stock, I reckon the 32/36 should be an okish size for a slightly worked 1.6L shouldn't it?

it would be a pretty good size then

I used to have a dgv weber on my HOT!! 5K and it was too much. I had it professionally tuned on a dyno and the final result was that the chokes were too big. But, i am always willing to be proven wrong - I suppose it can't hurt to try it.

 

Anyway, Twin SU's are my new best friend. :P

you can get a DGV with smaller chokes, i think doug has one. these go quite well, even on a stock 3k believe it or not

doug's was a 28/36 DCD i think. either that or 28/32. the smaller choke gave it good response. but i think that carb ended up on becky's ke16

 

he mentioned owning a 32/26 with the smaller chokes, but it might just be a shelf item. i think he put the renault turbo weber on his current 5k

 

can't remember, getting old :P *calls out* doug!!!