would this twin SU carby set up from a 2 litre L20B Datsun work on my 4k? apparently the inlet diameter is 35mm and outlet diamter is 37mm,

 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...E:X:RTQ:AU:1123

 

any info would be appreciated

cheers

would this twin SU carby set up from a 2 litre L20B Datsun work on my 4k? apparently the inlet diameter is 35mm and outlet diamter is 37mm,

 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...E:X:RTQ:AU:1123

 

any info would be appreciated

cheers

Straight out.. no. If you want it to work you will need a K engine inlet manifold (I think they're made by a company called Lynx. Redline may also do them)

and then you may need to modify or replace the linkages to something that suits the one on a KE70.

Seabiscuit has it right! You will need the Lynx manifold for a 4K, although those Datsun carbs are great for the job.

 

The manifold is going to cost you $300, they are hard to find and you will pay that for one with an odd pair of non-working carbs on!

 

The 4K will run inch & 1/4 carbs (32mm) or inch & 1/2 (36mm) like those Datsuns.

G`day mate, I am intending using the same hitachi carb setup on my 4k ke70. I`ve been looking for a manifold for about a year now with no luck. I`ve decided that I will get a cut and shut done and graft the Datsun outer manifold(from the balance chamber outwards) to the bolt up side of a 3k bigport manifold.

Luckily I have a friend that can do the cutting and welding for me so the cost will be in beers rather than bucks.

I can`t see why they won`t work after tuning etc. I ran 1 1/2 SU`s on my ke10 K motor way back when I was a hoon and they worked good as gold.

Once I`ve got mine done(don`t really know when) I`ll be sure to post some piccies.

Good luck finding a ridgy didge manifold, your chances are so slim they are almost anorexic.

Best wishes, Old Fella. ;)

Message Jip the Qld regional leader he has a twin Su setup for sale on here.

Here I got a link for you.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=36821

I ran 1 1/2 SU`s on my ke10 K motor way back when I was a hoon

 

Haha! What's changed???

 

Rhys I'd say Jip's manifold is a typical $300 one, grab it while you can, unless you can convince the Old Fella to make two Datsun/KE manifolds. Jip's SUs are terribly old and it will be a lot of mucking around trying to get linkages & chokes sorted (I still haven't finished the ones I bought off here 6months back!) so using the Lynx manifold and Datsun carbs would be great.

 

Maybe that's the way to go Ol' Fella, make a run of 5 Datsun conversions and sell them around here!

i would dispute that claim. I've heard of nothing but heartache about Hitachis. Not only that but they made SU's for many years, some of the later ones with the integrated fuel bowls etc are supposed to be pretty slick

 

http://www.sumidel.com/ have loads of stock for SU's and their prices are (were) pretty good.

I've got Hitachis on the Lynx manifold, they're not running or tuned yet though. These were carbs that I previously had on a 180B SSS and I found them to work really well, so I'm not worried. They also were modified to fit brit SU needles for tuning. Haven't made the linkage yet, but I don't think it's going to be too difficult. From memory something hits if you mount the carb directly to the manifold, not that you would, so I'm using the Datsun phenolic spacers as well and it all goes together well.

 

I also had to drill the lynx manifold because it only had the vertical bolt holes, not the ones that sit at an angle. Not a big deal though.

 

I think the manifold may also need to be opened out because the intake side doesn't quite open up to the 38mm that the Hitachi is.

 

Just buy the set for sale on here. I was lucky and got the manifold for about $130, but you have to jump on them when they come up ;)

Edited January 3, 201016 yr by snot35

After my years of owning Datsun SSS I thought Hatachis were the norm! They never gave me any particular trouble except a tendency for the rear float to stick sometimes and need bashing with a coke can! ;) I think that was only on one particular car, but tis a long time ago now.

 

If you don't run spacers the throttle plate hits the manifold when it opens unless the Lynx is opened up to the full size, and the complicated-looking pivot arm that carries the idle screw hits the face of the Lynx. Mine had already been hacksawed down to the minimum shape, so I'm just putting in a couple of 2mm Lexan spacers as heat insulators.

I've dealt with Hitachi's a couple of times, and all they've ever caused me is immense nausea. Serious, painful, heartbreaking nausea.

 

Try to stick with the genuine SU's. There's bulk parts, needles and kits out there to service them, and if you find a carbie guy over the age of 40, he can get them running like new.

 

I had 1.5 SU's on a hot 3K and they were great. One trip to the dyno and I didn't touch them again.

I guess there are good and bad sets. Mine were square tops. I removed all the stupid emissions gear and then that was that. Most of the genuine stuff could be used on them too.

 

I'm just using them because I know they are a working set. Oh, and they were free ;)

fair enough - as far as I can tell, the SU's and the BDA were about the only 2 things the poms got right!

Oh I don't know, they seemed to wrap that BDA is some pretty decent rally cars.

 

Other than that, I do believe you're right :S

ended up buying this (the rebuilt one with adapter plate) http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...397#entry403345, 32/36 webber from an escort. hope its easy to put on :D

It'll be a piece of piss to put on.

 

You might need to do some shopping to get some extra bolts, I can't quite remember, you may need 2 additional ones. Once you've got the old carby off, you'll soon find out.

 

There can be some fiddly moments for beginners if you've never taken a carby off but you'll get it.

Edited January 20, 201016 yr by philbey