Hi, i have been looking into doing a cam shaft replacement on my standard 4k but have very limited engine knowledge. Would anyone have a guide or a walkthrough on replacing a cam in a 4k and would anyone be able to tell me what i need to buy before i even start removing the origional one. ( i am going up to a mild grinded cam )

 

thanks

Get a Haynes car manual, it will step you through removal of the cam. There's not much you'll need to buy, but you will need a second cam if you want to swap it straight over, otherwise you'll have the car out of action if you send your current cam off to get ground.

ok cool thanks, i have the car out of action at the moment anyway waiting for the shipment of new front guards to get off the boat that was supost to arive yesterday ( now the end of feb ) so i should be all set with time.

go big its fun , and a good laugh at the lights when the guys in the excel next to u asks if its 12a or 13b

thats my motor in the early days

valves,springs,ect were changed to heaver items

Edited February 2, 201016 yr by ca18ae71

go big its fun , and a good laugh at the lights when the guys in the excel next to u asks if its 12a or 13b

Not when you've had it for more than a month and you're sick of people asking :jamie:

Here's the list of mild cams I assembled. All these companies do hotter cams than these.

 

I used Crow, it took a week & a half, cost $170 for a cam grind and followers refaced. The cam I picked (the 606) is right on the 0.4" lift, above which you need to get Holden 202 Red motor valve springs.

 

Get a set of extractors & a better carb to make the most of the cam.

Edited February 2, 201016 yr by altezzaclub

ok cool haha i myt go with that, getting a lumpy sound out of the car would be mean but i dnt want it to bad that idling at the lights is a pain :jamie:

also am i correct in that it is possible to replace the cam while the engine is still in the bay or should i pull it out

I pulled it out, but that was partly because the wrong oil filter on it drained the oil each night and it rattled terribly on startup when we bought it. The bearings were 'rubbed' as it turned out, not too bad really, but it has made it easier to do everything else. I shimmed the oil pump while I was in there as well.

 

You'll have to take out the radiator and remember to loosen the pulley while the car is on the ground and the handbrake on. You'll also have to drop the sump to get the timing cover off, unless someone has already replaced the front sump studs with bolts. I don't know if that means lifting the engine a couple of inches on a jack or not.

 

I used a bit of dowel with a rounded end and a rag to jam into the followers to get them up through the head as there was a rim of tar above them. That was before I decided to lift the head off as I was cutting out the ports to match the twin SUs & figured the whole thing would be easier if I stripped it.... the job got bigger and bigger as I went along, so expect the same!