hey guys,

 

my clutch in my ke70 is slipping again. it is only the cable operated one, so there is no chance of hydraulic oil getting in onto the pressure pate or anything (as my trusty haynes manual explains). i adjusted the circlip in the engine bay and it was a good 4-5 grooves loose, but since then i can really really notice that the car revs are high, but the car is nuggeting along. another sign that its getting worse is that i use to be able to, when wet, give more revs and dump clutch a bit quicker and get light wheelspin. i don't really do many burnouts and crap, but g/b was changed prob a yr ago now, don't u think that the mechanic wuld have sed 'yeh clutch is going'? anyway. what should i do about this problem, is there any way of a quick fix? also wats it cost for a new clutch if this one is gone? i need to find like hard evidence that the clutch is screwed cus i don't want to have to buy another one and the car is the same and the problem is a cable or something.

 

also is it hard to change myself?

 

cheers

stock clutch is $120-$150, heavy duty $240

 

no they're not hard to change, just don't get it round the wrong way (pay attention to the driven plate as you take it out)

 

get a new clutch cable while you're there

oh ok. that shuld be ok. wont i need to get the car jacked up quite high so i can get under it? or shuld some wheel stands do? where abouts can i get a clutch/clutch kit which will suit the ke70? (4 speed)

is it a tough job replacing or shuld it be simple? i have to basically remove the G/B to don't i?

cheers

repco, autobarn, etc. look in the yellow pages for a business with "clutch" in their name, an example down here would be "ballina brake, exhaust and clutch". any mechanic should be able to get you one too

 

you can do it on stands or ramps, you'll also need a jack to raise and lower the gearbox on. it really helps to have a mate there with you

 

tailshaft out, box off engine, lock the flywheel somehow (screwdriver in the teeth is good), get the pressure plate bolts off, swap the clutch, put it all back together. buy a clutch aligning tool as well, i use a spare gearbox input shaft to align clutches

If u can't get an aligning tool, one of those hose spray connectors that u turn on and off by twisting, the work well.

Edited July 12, 200521 yr by AE35

oh k, wats the cost of a clutch aligning tool? wats it look like and what does it do to align the clutch. if u guys are using garden hose pieces and old gear shifters, mayeb i can use something similar.

cheers

http://images.google.com.au/images?q=clutc...lignment%20tool

Step 1 before taking gearbox off.

 

Remove clutch cable from end of clutch lever fork on the side of the gearbox.

(Pretty easy job)

 

Remove rubber boot carefully, as unless it is fairly new, it could tear & fall apart.

 

Get a little trouble lamp, or old headlight bulb soldered to a couple of wires across battery, and put it inside bellhousing & have a good look around.

 

If gearbox was removed only 12 months ago, then inside of bellhousing should have been cleaned at the time, by your mechanic.

 

Check carefully for oil. It is not unknown for the front gearbox mainshaft oil seal to go,and gearbox oil to enter bellhousing, whereafter it gets spread around like jam.

 

If driven clutch plate is breaking down, there could also be signs of fibrish stuff all over the inner bellhousing.

 

Good luck !

 

Ultimately, the gearbox is going to have to come out, if the clutch is slipping, but a few minutes spend investigating will sometimes give you a clearer idea of what to expect, & plan accordingly.

 

Good source of new clutch parts is eBay.

 

I recently picked up & brand new KE55 clutch repair kit which included clutch plate, clutch driven plate & throw out bearing for $ 15.50 + $ 12.50 freight.

Edited July 13, 200521 yr by Banjo

that has got to be the cheapest clutch replacement ever!

 

i once cut more grooves into my old stock asbestos-type clutch because i just needed it to last a few months till i got my 4K going :) $0

 

oh thanks banjo, that was the info i was looking for. what did u type in search in ebay? will 3k-4k-5k clutches all be the same? assuming that its the 4 speed g/b?

 

thanks

 

mmmmmm yummy asbestos... cough cough ahhh spew-die.. hehe :)

there are two types, 19 (or 20, can't remmeber) spline and 21 spline. count the splines on your own gearbox input shaft to know what you have

 

every 4 speed i've ever seen has been the one with less splines. i THINK 21 spline is only late ke70 5 speed, but i could be wrong so don't blame me if you order the wrong one without checking

You are spot on Jamie. The clutch driven plate comes in 19 spline (4speed) & 21 spline for the mid to later (5speed)

 

The pressure plates are pretty much interchangeable, except for some of the very early 2K & 3K motors, which had different mounting bolt spacings for the pressure plate.

 

:)

1K had tiny little 2 bolt pressure plate and smaller diameter clutch and flywheel as well, totally irrelevant but handy for ke1x owners

I replace clutches everytime I put a new engine in...or when I break a gearbox and have not changed the clutch in that particular car....Not once have I ever used a clutch aligning tool...I just use my eyes, and u put your fingers in the 3 gaps and u can feel if it is centered =$0

 

You can get a clutch for $90 trade price where I am from...which is so cheap anyways...I ran a supercharged 4K for 5 years and not once did I ever have clutch slip problems...and they were all just standard bottom of the range clutch's...And let's say I WASN'T easy on the clutches...I'm talking 5000 rpm clutch drops in second gear etc haha

i must admit, i didnt use a centering tool when i did my hacksaw clutch, i just have good eyes :n: when i built the 4k i had spare input shaft, tools make you lazy :)