Chief Posted July 3, 2010 Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 (edited) Hey guys this thing called tremclad has anyone seen it in Bunning's or anything??? What would be the exact same thing over here http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showfl...part=1&vc=1 (9th post down) Cheers guys Edited July 3, 2010 by Chief Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted July 3, 2010 Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 I painted an old car with roofing paint. Turned out overrated. Used a roller. Noone believed me it came out so good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief Posted July 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 I painted an old car with roofing paint. Turned out overrated. Used a roller. Noone believed me it came out so good. Hahaha sounds good I'm heaps keen to try the roller method but i think i saw patience somewhere in there I'm not too sure because i was too impatient to read the whole thing haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7shades Posted July 3, 2010 Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 Same stuff as Killrust. It does work... I've done a few ute trays and some earthmoving equipment with it. Like the dude says, use a roller and thin it right down. BUT You have to get the expensive foam rollers designed for enamel paint. The cheap ones swell and fall to bits in thinners... If you want to make it super shiny, you'll need to wetsand the whole car once it dries. (drying properly takes a couple of days btw) It dries to a very orange peel sort of finish. Start with a 2000 grit, then 3000, then rotary buff with a fairly agro cutting compound and heavy foam pad. I'd buff again with a black pad and swirl remover after that to make it 100% win, but it would be good enough already for most by then :hmm: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted July 3, 2010 Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 (edited) If ya wanna do it good you're gonna need a lot of it no matter what way you do it. Thats why my $100 dollar rattle can job turned out sweet. EDIT: Does it come in a matt? Or would ya get a matt look by not sanding? Edited July 3, 2010 by blzbub666 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh-KE Posted July 3, 2010 Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 Hey mate, I did this with Wattyl Kill rust it looked pretty good, easily mistaken for a spray job. Heres the thread I made about it http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=29141 And heres my old ke55 which got the treatment http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=30878 I used a the high density rollers. It worked pretty well but I rushed it a bit. ( it takes a fair long time to do) But if you have time rather than money.. its a good way to go. It would be better with other paint also. Such as Brightside or a marine grade enamel like Norglass which I think you can get from mitre 10... In the end though its all just enamel paint and its not as good as acrylic or 2pak. Easier to scratch, not as glossy and harder to remove if you want it gone i think too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief Posted July 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 Hey mate, I did this with Wattyl Kill rust it looked pretty good, easily mistaken for a spray job. Heres the thread I made about it http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=29141 And heres my old ke55 which got the treatment http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=30878 I used a the high density rollers. It worked pretty well but I rushed it a bit. ( it takes a fair long time to do) But if you have time rather than money.. its a good way to go. It would be better with other paint also. Such as Brightside or a marine grade enamel like Norglass which I think you can get from mitre 10... In the end though its all just enamel paint and its not as good as acrylic or 2pak. Easier to scratch, not as glossy and harder to remove if you want it gone i think too... Mann soo jealous haha you beat me too it bloody magna wagon drivers any tips on how to do it and why did it take soo long all the prep work?? or was it somthing else? Cheers guys for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief Posted July 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 What kind of thinning it down are we talking about half half or more turps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7shades Posted July 3, 2010 Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 What kind of thinning it down are we talking about half half or more turps? Nooooo way less... Like less than 20%. It doesn't take much to thin this stuff right out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh-KE Posted July 3, 2010 Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 Yeah prep is still the most important part, but with the paint you want to get it to about the consistency of milk. The thinner it is the faster it dries and also reduces the amount of orange peel you will get. So thin is good. Do 2 or 3 coats and then wet sand with something like 600 or 800, and repeat until you have solid colour. This can take up to 10-15 coats depending on how thin you go. Seriously though if you want to know more about it, because there is a lot to learn if you want a overrated finish, I would read through some of that massive thread about it. It's a gold mine of info on the topic.. White is a good colour to use because: -Imperfections don't show as much -You can get the exact colour (wattyl) in a can which saves you from doing fiddly bits with the roller -You can get white primer which saves you a shit load of time because its already white and you don't have to do as many coats for coverage -It looks overrated! But i gotta go, might come and think of more stuff later, Peace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief Posted July 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 ahhh ok shades maybe a would have gone a little too far with the mixing hahaha but yeahh i read a whole bunch last night but i was too tired/excited to remember much so ill have to go over it all again to sort it out Cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanatic Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 Very interested to see how this turns out. Me and my dad was talking about trying this the other night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chobis Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 I did a Datsun Sunny with a roller and using KillRust. Used the same method described in that thread. I did it about 3 years ago. Was good fun and it turned out pretty good. I was lazy with prep and then I got sick of doing it too. Only did the top half of the car in fact. I can tell you though from what I did, that if you follow the steps that guy explains from doing his Charger, that you will end up with a good finish. Be prepared to really take your time and do thin coats and don't try to get full coverage until coat 3 or 4 and don't expect to have applied enough paint until about the 8th coat. Wet and Dry as described and you really can get a good finish for a very low cost and best of all anyone can do it without needing a compressor and a gun. The foam of the roller is important and you also need foam brushes to get into tricky places like gutters etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief Posted July 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=30878 Oh-ke did it to his ke it looks heaps good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kokopuffs Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 hey do you guys sand and primer the car before you painted or you just paint over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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