Evan G Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 i googled it and this is what i found A solid cam, uses a solid lifter. Its pretty much just a round hollow chuck of metal. The lifter rides on the cam lobe and the cam lobe moves lifter up and down. A solid cam needs a lash setting, a space between rocker arm and valve stem A hyd cam uses a lifter that is like above but also has a spring and plunger inside it. The lifter fills with oil and pumps up. On adjustment, no slack or space is needed between the rocker and valve stem as the lifter bleeds off and pumps up with oil to chusion the valve train. Solid cams do not "hit harder" or run rougher then a hyd cam. The cam duration and LSA is what causes a cam to sound wild or mild. Both a solid and hyd. will and can sound rough or smooth based on the size of it. Most of the big 3 used solid cams in the 50's, 60. and up into the 70's on stock engines, in stock production cars In fact a solid cam acts milder than a hyd cam if both has the same specs. Like say a 278* duration with a 112 LSA.. The solid cam will be tamer than the hyd and will act and sound more like a 270* cam.. Reason why?? The slack in the adjustment.. The valve lash slack has to be took up before the cam can start to open and close the valves Yes a solid cam is louder running. It has a noticeable click. Kind of sounds like a sewing machine running, again thats due to the slack in the lash adjustment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 I do have solids in my 5k, but they didn't cost me a single cent. :cool: Gutted 5k hydraulics with 3k pushrods and 4k rocker gear. Done about 60 thousand kays without an issue. Makes me laugh when not so smart people spend up for a solid lifter conversion. I wouldn't bother if it actually cost money... it is a K series after all, the simplest of the simplest of motors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 I do have solids in my 5k, but they didn't cost me a single cent. :cool: Gutted 5k hydraulics with 3k pushrods and 4k rocker gear. Done about 60 thousand kays without an issue. Makes me laugh when not so smart people spend up for a solid lifter conversion. I wouldn't bother if it actually cost money... it is a K series after all, the simplest of the simplest of motors. Unfortunately, 3k pushrods don't fall from the sky.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNOBBLER[RL] Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 Nope, they usually fall from 3k engines when turned upside down without the head on :P Seriously though they are around but they are getting harder to find. Felix, are you running a stock type 5k with a 5k head? Or 3/4k head? And by gutting them you just removed the circlip and emptied the spring etc out of the lifters? How is the pushrod held in or sitting in the lifter? I know you have probably said it all before but this is turning into a thread for the FAQ section! Cheers, JP 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoidburg Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 Yeah you're right, I spent heaps of time tracking down the Hydro gear for my 5K! :laff: Some bone head converted it to solids and the motor is rattly as all hell. I just bought a GENUINE 5K camshaft from Japan just so I can use the hydro lifters etc. Cost me an arm and a leg too, but will be worth it. I don't understand why people change them. Supposed to be good for 8,000 RPM but how often do you do that? Common sense really... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoidburg Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 I've got a complete 3K and 4K if anyone wants them? Just saying is all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 The motor is a D-dished 5k with the std head (knobby bits under 1 and 4 plugs), shaved and ported. The lifters have had the circlips removed, the guts emptied out and the pushrod cups dropped back down into the base of the lifters. Very simple and easy. The main reason was to run the solid cam from my prior 4k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 Hi, Yes you can re-grind a cam for hydro lifters, roller lifters, solid lifters etc cams all vary a bit but it is a huge difference to how it works over all. don't run a solid cam on hydros will only get 2km out of engine ;) I have done that before..LOL But TheNOBBLER you said in a post any K motor cam can fit any K engine not 100% right.....in a 5K some cams are shorter. I poped a 4K cam in once and welsch plug at rear of cam punched out oil went every where but in the engine. Some K motor cams are longer must look first :) They don't all fit. Also on a 5K the lifters will come out with the head on with a Toyota head gasket. All the ACL ones I have used are not "trimmed" properly around the lifter area and stop the lifter being removed. Makes changing a 5K cam with head on harder so also an interesting note either file gasket a bit like I do or go Toyota gasket they are shapped correctly. Cheers Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snot35 Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 This ones for felix, do you know what the CR and CC volume of your 5k is? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 I do have solids in my 5k, but they didn't cost me a single cent. :cool: Gutted 5k hydraulics with 3k pushrods and 4k rocker gear. Done about 60 thousand kays without an issue. Makes me laugh when not so smart people spend up for a solid lifter conversion. I wouldn't bother if it actually cost money... it is a K series after all, the simplest of the simplest of motors. This is exactly my thought on the matter; people spend a lot of time agonising over a solid conversion and honestly won't see much power gain, just rattly noise gain. don't run a solid cam on hydros will only get 2km out of engine ;) I have done that before..LOL Cheers Cameron lol Also, that point about the Toyota gaskets is interesting! I'll remember that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Hi, Yeah it was when I put a solid cam on my hydro's I found out that ACL gaskets are different..LOL As I needed to get my lifters out. Since 5K lifters are a larger diameter you can see where Toyota machined their bore that it cuts into the side of the block a bit and my 5K head has small machineing marks also. This allows the lifter to JUST be slid out with head on. Toyota also machine this relief into their gaskets. but since it is so slight ACL don't adn it makes changing lifters go from easy to PAIN in the ass after taking head off..LOL Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 A well worn in set of lifter won't come out without pain anyway.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNOBBLER[RL] Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Cheers for clearing up the question about what cam fits where Cameron, I didn't realise they had different lengths. So we now know how easy a 5k solid cam setup can be done, how about setting up preload for a hydro setup? Cheers, JP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 (edited) Basically the hard bit is measuring preload accurately. 1. You need to very very gently assemble the rocker shaft into the head with the lifters and rods. Don't tighten therocker post bolts up straight away, this needs to be done very slowly, usually by hand. 2.As you tighten them up you should keep checking the pushrods to see if there's any backlash in them. As you feel that lash just take up (like an eighth of a turn on the bolts) you stop there. Check and recheck the rods you need it to be just on that cusp of backlash/no backlash 3. using a razor blade sitting on the top face of the head, mark a line across each pushrod by holding it flat, hard up against the rod and spin the rod with your fingers. 4. Once rods are marked, torque up the rocker post bolts so that they are fully bolted down. Mark another line using the razor method. 5. Pull the rods out and use a vernier to measure the distance between the 2 lines. Most people aim for about 40-60thou or 1-1.5mm of preload. Remember that the rods are on a slight angle to the face of measurement so you should do some pythagoras and all that what not. 6. If your preload is too small you will likely need to have your rocker posts machined down. If you have too much you will have to buy some shim material and cut out shims to fit under the rocker posts. 7. Rev its nuts off and do skids. Edited November 3, 2010 by philbey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNOBBLER[RL] Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Philbey... Legend! Thankyou very much for the write up. This thread should now be added to the FAQ/wiki section! JP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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