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Everything posted by camerondownunder88

  1. I will just throw spanner in the works... I always wanted to get a K block cut a key way in lifter bore. Key a roller lifter from a chev engine get a cam made to suit roller lifters and then install..... I once also ran a hydro cam on a solid lifter...once....I got 1km up the road dead engine.....
  2. Hi Just spotted this thread. Ardrox 2526 I use at work to strip aircraft parts except we use it in a large tank heated to 90 degrees C.....Paint GONE in an instant. Long gloves and a breathing filter is a MUST with this one but it WORKS. So possibly a tip is heat up pannel pour on may work faster??? Just a thought. Also be ware this stuff disolves most plastics and rubber. So be very careful about where you get it around a car. A lot of sealers etc will just fall apart with this stuff super nasty to them. But other wise its the best :)
  3. Parrot Didnt see this reply...Yes I still have the KE15. Its a bit sad atm but still unsure what will happen to that car..wreck...restor...sell etc.... Car is good for turn key go. But like all things they wear out so I'm jsut trying to keep this car neat tidy well looked after so it lasts a few years.
  4. UPDATES - Front Strut Brace and more So Purchased my self a factory TRD strut brace for the tivo. Simple easy to install. Front of these cars are pretty good so wasnt a HUGE WOW change in handeling characteristc but definate change after driving around all weekend. You will also note from photos I added a celica style 2zz engine cover. Much nicer I think. Before: After After this mod I though I should also do some general maintenance on the car. These are known for spitting out lift bolts and having issues so I though since I had not done it since buying car Id change the lift bolts. Piss easy 15min job IF they arent broken. Mine were like new so this car has probably seen VERY little use on lift....well till I owned it hahah Engine is regularly serviced by me 5000km. Before that must have been done regularly also as engine is CLEAN inside. Below is removed lift bolt: Well thats all folks. Enjoy. P.S. Greenmac80 I see you saw what I had writen about rear bar. If you want a quick one jsut get soem box steel and make your own but BEST change erver from any chassis bars so far well worth it.
  5. UPDATES: When this car was purchased the original owner had installed a new battery. Problem was it was the size UP on what car should have. Physical size not much bigger but jammed in and I threw it on scales to find it was a WHOPPING 18KG of LEAD YUK!!!.... So quickest way to get better lap times is to drop weight. Battery is a good place to start. So I started looking around at race car light weight lead acid batteries....Still expensive and old technology. So I started looking at LiPo batteries :) Well got hooked. At first was put off as some require external circuits and special ways ot charge and to much dicking around. Then I came accross a brand of battery that puts all that IN the battery and a circuit to monitor battery levels and cut it off if to low and control charge rate etc. So I started looking into a size to fit car. I found when Looking at LiPo batteries the CCA rating can be HUGE...Yet the Amp Hr is quite low.... Also if car is let sit for a few days can go dead flat :( So I did some tinkering and maths and looked at how often I drove, Electrical usage in car and more. And decided to get a 1000CCA 27A/hr LiPo battery. MAN O MAN this thing is LIGHT..... 900grams...Yes under 1KG.... Size ah yeah SMALL.....about a 1/4 of the size of a lead acid battery. So when going to install I also found original owner REMOVED the battery tray for this car and battery was floating sitting on part of car and pipe work :( So I went about sourced a battery tray and the trays Plastic cover. This was sourced and a RICE spec aluminium battery clamp was also sourced. While doing this I also got a hold of two new earht leads of larger gauge and better quallity and ran them to the earth points on the car. After all this car seemed to crank a lot better :) So more than happy with this battery best mod so far id say purely cause of massive weight drop and more efficient this thing charges SUPER fast compaired to a lead acid so Alternator doesnt have to work as much after cranking to get power levels back up. When fitting battery in photos you can see how CONVALUDED the air inlet is to a 2zz powered corolla. The air inlet is up behind head light it then wraps down around under in into front bar comes up under fuse box into air filter housing then into another pipe down to manifold......Thants got to be changed soon....Who designed that??? So few pictures below: Extra Earth Down To Gearbox: New Battery and Clamp in: New battery another Angle: So thats All I did this arvo possibly do more tomorrow in study break and have more updates then. Happy Motoring.
  6. I like to do mod take a few weeks to enjoy it then post Trev :P But feel free to fit my new exhaust I got :) I'm CBF atm..lol
  7. Updates: Short one today: So this arrived from Japan: It is a Laile Front Performance Bar/brace. Was easy as to install. Jacked car took out cross member bolt and bolt to front radator pannel and tighten. Took for a quick drive noticeable change in cornering turn in seems more precise. Again dirty hands so I never snapped a photo of items on car. Ill do that on weekend after I give it a clean... Till next update.
  8. UPDATES: REAR SUSPENSION So thsi car is known for its horrible rear end. Even though being FWD the rear wheels purely hold the rear number plate off the ground the rear end is...floppy... So as per normal always keeping my eyes open for parts and BAM! Find at auction a factory rear TRD strut bad for this car.....BUY BUY BUY....Came with no instructions but a few taps away on google found the TRD installation manual with templates to cut trims and I was away. Gave me a good excuse to clean my car out a bit. Below is a photo of a packet of gum I found wedged right down inside rear guard....Who knows how long thats been there :S So Off I went and First things first the boot. The bar goes here: Secondly now to remove floor and tools and trays from boot floor and cover tray from behind seats: After that you then have to go around to base of the front side of passenger seats and flip them up to gain access to lower bolts of side lumbar supports: Seats up: Bolt on bottom of side supports This bolt gets seat belt out the way which needs to come off and then seat support comes out after it: Seat Cushion off: Once off side wall of boot unclips and swings away: Find and extract gum here.... Then the two bolts that hold seat belt reels in place is where TRD backets go: So started getting dark phone camera was now suffering so bolt in bar. Now I did this by putting bar in got brackets square and good then nipped...Then removed centre of bar slipped trims on over holes I cut in them and bam put bar in pannels back on do all in reverse again: Bar and trim in place. I let kniofe slip here need heat gun to melt out score mark: And got dark but FINISHED: And Bar before install: So took for a drive and SUCK ME SIDEWAYS the improvement was HUGE....At first had to get used to cornering all again but man o man 100% improvment in all aspects of cornering.... MUST HAVE 10/10 should get for your zze... Happy motoring peeps
  9. Thanks :) I was a bit worried at first rims wouldnt match but were to cheap to pass after fitting instantly liked them :)
  10. UPDATES WHEEEELLLLSSSS: So In the back ground of my spare engine in last thread you can see a tire stand I got. I saw this on sale the other day and though hey I need one of them well two really to hold all my wheels and that and make work shop cleaner so I bought two got them home and threw them together :) Pic: So before I put my stock rims on the stand they were heavily gutter rashed on one and a bit shitty. So I decided to get the files out and give them a cleanup. I got all the lips nice and scratch free and polished. I then removed all the tire weights and goo and then degreased them and then got a paint pen touch up device and re-painted the lip of the rims. Came up quite good. I then got some nice thick plastic bags and wrapped each rim stacked on one stand and pushed into corner so if I need stock rims they are ready to use in a hurry clean dust free and ready to roll. I also acid cleaned and chassed the stock wheel nuts and bagged them as new rims I had to go to a different nut. So few pictures below: Sorry for shitty phone pics. Before Mid File: And good old me didn't take a photo of the rims finished cleaned and painted so we will all have to use our brains..lol So now your thinking if the stock wheels are off car what did he put on.... Well other day I was told of a set of rims + tires the correct size/offset and stud pattern for this car a young guy didn't want as he bought another set of rims for his car. So I went for a look they were a set of Rota mini lite wheels with chrome lip metallic grey centre. They were wrapped in Bridgestone RE002 performance tires and one needed to be replaced rest were still ok. SO made a nice low ball offer thinking ah Ill be sent home...BAM SOLD...the kid needed money...SO I got a set of wheels and tires for less than the cost of TWO new RE002 tires them self so got them home replaced the one bald tire and cleaned them up got some rings for the hub and slipped them on: Above photo was taken day before I had to use car for mates wedding so was good timing got new rims car all clean and did a wedding. Car looked flash. Now to fit these wheels to a sportivo. The Toyota factory wheel studs are SHORT... Leaves about 3 threads that actually engage on the nuts. So I bought a set of wheel studs that were longer and fitted them. Was a easy job on the rear with hydraulic press straight in no issues NICE. Fronts however MAN O MAN due to length was hard to slip in then to press them in as didn't want to remove the hubs. But got them on. And I then went an got a multi colour chrome nut so they are gold, blue, purple etc look cool. BUT I didn't get aluminium nuts. These flog out and are DANGEROUS so they are a nice steel nut so safe for track use :) Phone flash kinda doesnt show colour well but purple, blue, green, gold and more... Well till later today out to do more tinkering on car.
  11. UPDATES: So This weekend I did a few small things on car between doing uni work. 1. Water Pump The pump on the car was slowly starting to drip red coolant :down: So I had a new OEM pump to swap on. So didn't really take pictures just did it and added brand new OEM Toyota Red coolant also so system is all good to go. So if you look at the part numbers for water pumps for the ZZE123 or 2zzge motor there was a change in the pump and a Toyota revised the design. The original pump ran a metal pressed impeller. The later ones run a plastic impeller that is moulded with more vanes and better shape and also sits closer to the block so there is less "slip" over the top of the vanes of water as it is pumping. Thus making pump more efficient. So With pump removed and another old dead pump I have here is a shot for those at home to see difference: This pump being more efficient will need to be spun slower and thus sapping less power from the crank SO......I shall invest in an under drive pulley soon to really get more benifit from the pump. 2. Spare Engine So since I track this car I have decided it wont be a brutally fast track car and daily.....due to weight etc.... BUT what I do want is reliability so I can go to the track enjoy a few races come home with parts still in my engine. So I had been looking around for a spare engine to buy to totally rebuild to make a race motor so once built I can drive in swap motor drive out with race motor with minimal down time. So While keeping eyes open for a spare I came across this motor. WAS DIRT CHEAP...why....Engine had thrown a rod. Now I risked it as block may have been good but 2zz are known for when a rod goes it flies around and chops the block in half.....Well this one has some large internal chunks removed and can't be sleeved so thus block is dead.....BUT I have got MANY MANY MANY MANY good parts to start building up race motor. Just need to track down a good block. So picture below of spare engine I mounted on engine stand: Now I havent snapped internal photos but I will slowly up load them in a tear down thread for this car so people can see what they might get/find if they buy a blown 2zz. Well that was all for the weekend till next time.....
  12. Greenmac Yeah the new corolla doesnt have the "old SKool cool" factor. I sold my KE11 to get this while thsi thing beats the pants off the KE11 in speed and handeling EVERY DAY driving the KE11 to work sicnce I drive so far id get looks questions and more it was a fun cruiser. But not having a good place to work on cars pushed me to get this as for now it was less maintenance than the KE11. But I do miss the KE11 Id still drive an old KE daily if I could. But oil issues these things are known for. When on the track I add an extra 350 ish mL of oil to the sump as I still run stock sump and with slicks on don't want to lose oil or cause pump to suck air. SO I over fill it a bit. But You should keep your rolla and get a snail on it :)
  13. UPDATES: Interior: So I found an OEM TRD pedal set for the Sportivo :) Items are a harder rubber with flash Metal cover. Now from two photos below you can see the real difference is shape and area of the pedals. The Accelerator on stock is smaller and doesn't have the "tab" on one side. The brake and clutch pedal pads on the stock set are also a little smaller in area. So the added tab and area brings the pedals "closer" together allowing some heel toe operation to go down. Now if you get a set from a dealer/online whatever. They are listed for the ZZE123 from the first model till about 2004. The update model the parts book will tell you it wont fint....They do....mine is an update model and they fit fine no obstructions or modifications needed nothing so if you have an update sportivo don't hesitate they will fit. Stock rubber pads: TRD Sports Set: Handling Modifications: So I was a bit sceptical about this "brace" that ultra brace make for the sportivo. It is a mid brace that bolts to either side of the car through the interior. Steel construction powder coated white finish. This is interior rear with no brace: Before: The brace bolts between the two lower seat belt mounts. The bolts have ample thread engagement so you can still use factory bolts and don't need to purchase longer bolts. When I reinstalled the bolts I took the liberty of adding anti-seize to the bolts and torque them back up. Most bolts on this car if they come off get this treatment so future tinkering becomes easier. Also the installer should note with brace if you don't put the seat belt spacer in the right spot will prevent rotation of belt tie down point. So assembly has to be done right. After install photo: The one down side I can find with this brace is it prevents the front seats from going all the way back on the rails. Now I am average height so I dpont have my seat all the way back BUT if you are tall and do then this brace wont suit you. Now did it make a difference? The chassis of the ZZE1XX corolla general consensus is they have a slopy back end. I found this brace improved my turn in on cornering and affect was noticeable so difference YES so worth it. And now for a tesse at the start of the thread I said I wanted to track this car and have fun and enjoy the LIFT feature of the 2zzge motor. Well I have done some track times at QR raceway and below is a quick snap shot of me on last corner: Now this silver R33 skyline had a stack of mods and was getting frustraited as he couldnt get near my time 1min10+..... So next lap he pushed to hard and little light corolla pulls away: This was done 100% stock and lap time was 1min 7 seconds. I was pretty happy with this time for a stock corolla and its SOOOOO much fun I can recomend everyone do this doesnt matter what you got you learn SOOO much about how your car goes at speed etc. But a side note. There was an evo 7 there half stripped interior, larger intercooler, few other mods like pod filter and he ran a 1min 6 sec flat. So I was pretty happy with my effort. So next track session with mods and practise practise practise This thing should scare a few evo's :) And hey a few high powered skylines yes up the straight they get me BUT corners I got them so if I get my corners right I hold them at bay pretty well :) But enough for tonight...
  14. ^^^ Just read your thread Greenmac80 I like what you have done with yours but I see youe also busting conrods these zz motors will do that hahaha But MR2 short throw...You jsut unclip plastic housing and slot in MR2 one? Never though about this option before I hunted downa TRD item. Cameron
  15. Updates: Brake Lines: The stock items in the car had been in service since the car was new and were starting to show signs of deterioration so I decided instead of replacing the lines with OEM I went for some braided lines. Got this set out of japan. Very happy with quality all bolted on no fuss easy to install. TRD shifter: So I stumbled across a TRD short shifter for the car. Now if you have driven the zze corolla with some wear these cars have a horrible feel to the shifting mechanism AND at high RPM shifts when in lift mode it is easy to miss a shift and thus destroy your engine. So along with the installation of the solid shifter cable bushings the whole shift feel has gone from a sloppy shift to a smooth precise movement with a good 60ish% reduction in shifter travel. I also added the factory TRD resin gear knob this makes for a nice feel and is light weight hahah. The below photo shows how much crap had accumulated in the console over time. Hair clips crumbs and more was filthy. This got a real good clean out before installing the new shifter. Below is TRD item going in. I cleaned it re lubed it and had it all like new upon reinstalling it. So I reinstalled all trims and gave car a clean: Those with a keen eye will notice I have now also changed my steering wheel. I will detail this in a later post.
  16. Updates: So When I purchased this car it had a pretty shabby body and was missing the drivers side skirt. Made the car look BAD....So I finally tracked down some sportivo side skirts. Now for those at home the normal model, Levin, Sportivo all have DIFFERENT side skirts. Sportivo gets the fake vent thing so to match the other side needed a genuine sportivo one. So Purchased rom a white car. I sent item to a local pannel shop with car for the day item got paint matched. I then picked upa dn fitted my self. As I had gone to Toytoa and ordered all the parts to fit the side skirt. So all clips etc are there :) Pictures: Side before fitting paint matched item: Skirt painted closer: For reference this is a clip that holds top of rear of skirt on. So if they fall out you can fab up or buy etc: Fitted and looking good: Also a while back I had purchased and fitted a cooling pannel for the car. This will help seal around radator and force air through it cooling the engine better. I found to fit this as I have an update model with non-removable centre grill there is a clip in moulded plastic grill that is attached to front bar. This has some moulded ridges for strength moulded in it. To make this fit I had to cut them down a bit. Simple job took all of 10minutes and this item was it. Pictures: Before install: Easy to read installation instructions: Front of car before install: Clip in plastic pannel that needed parts trimmed. Can see in large picture where I cut this pannel: Fitted and in: With this pannel on temp gauge slight decrease in temp at high way cruising to work. Gauge was about 1 line lower (sportivo gauges have a stack of graduations) I didnt put my data logger on the OBDII port so can't give exact figures but slight difference made so all round good :). I have also noticed on euro and some JDM varients of this car Toyota made a moulded plastic pannel to seal this gap. So factory in some areas was an option. But to us we get gap :( Till next update :)
  17. Hi, Easiest up grade is grab a Jap KE30 centre bolt in. Has same stud pattern on housing but is the larger 6" centre. The standard ring gear on a KE1X is 5 bolts later 6" diff is 6bolt and more ratios can be found easier. Use stock axles. Now if you want to have more fun top of head the AL25 so Tercel Toyota uses the Y series 158mm diff. This in the old scale is about 6.3"...This BOLTs into the KE10 housing also same stud pattern and axles slip straight in same spline. These had different ratios AGAIN. Usually were a tad higher but I know a KE10 with this centre in it and a 7K due to extra torque does it easy and makes a GREAT cruiser. Secret to fitting that diff is the flange on it three bolts will lign up one wont either weld and redrill OR...Undo nut change seal and flang to KE1X item and bolt all up EASY. IF you go to the 6" KE30 diff option then a factory TRD LSD will fit. RARE... Saying that my parts book for my KE15 sprinter lists that an LSD was factory option in KE1X diffs. Yet to ever see one my self but they do list it does exist do have part numbers for it so also that option but is the small diff centre they break :( Cameron
  18. UPDATES: Well car needed some loving so this morning I decided to do a few odd jobs to car to help neaten it up. With all the rain we have had in sunny QLD recently I decided to put new wiper blades on as ones I had were deat. Went with the moulded flex blade ones over a stock inster on metal blade. FANTASTIC!!! The new blade compaired to a metal frame spring type wipes the window far better removing water and dirt so happy wiht this addition. From some past front end damage the window washer jet hose was cut and re taped back together and then the clips and mounts for it were missing etc. I also spotted drivers side guard indicator light was out so I took time putting in new bulb all new washer hose I stripped from a wreck and plastic brackets that guide hose around bonnet etc when closing. Pic of guard off: Pic of plastic guide thing I replaced etc: When doing this I also replaced the driver side inner guard as it was missing and I was getting dirt crud up in the light engine bay and other areas. The ZZE123 was also missing the plastic engine stone tray that goes from under the car engine around the sides of each front wheel well. This under tray is a two part item Left and right hand side. Toyota don't make this part anymore and I was able to source a passenger side new no drivers side SOLD OUT...so I replaced the passenger side half of under tray and did guard liner in drivers side guard. Now thinking ahead as I have bought an aluminium under tray for car for added aero and to deflect more stuff than plastic and aid in engine bay cooling I did buy TWO plastic engine passenger side trays from toyota. WHY you ask. Well since item not made I have to cut up plastic tray using side of it attach to aluminium pannel and then install. SO I can return car stock I got one good one on shelf one to cut up and install :) Guard liner and passenger side half of under tray What I have before I installed half of an under tray :( NO PROTECTION can see dent in sump. The other week I also took the liberty of ordering some solid bushes for the gearbox linkage for the car. The standard items are a rubber bush with some brass in them and they wear BADLY and are soft spongy and bad. I find when in lift going from second to thirg gear at 8000+RPM the twist of the engine and the slop in shifter linkages prevents me from going to third. Due to speed I havent tried shifting from third to fourth in lift mode. But problem also occurs at 1st to 2nd also. Due to my gearbox having no crunches or that to save my gears from a missed shift my solid bush kit turned up and I fitted that. Picture of old worn bushings: Can see above the wear in the brass bush. It is out of round and was a few MM larger than pin on gearbox lever :( After fitting I went for a drive around the block. WOW much much much better. Gear shifts precise and with minimal play in linkages now can feel gears "click" in and even in lift can get in adn out of gear :) So next on the list will be a TRD short shifter kit and some solid bushes for the gear stick mount. Due to the high RPM of these engines and my driving I have also purchased some solid engine mounts for the car. This will stop engine twisting around so much and again improve shift and since a giant WEIGHT in the car wont be moving around during cornering will also improve handeling. So below is a picture of box of inserts but these will go in at a later date as this will be a HUGE job to do. Well thats all for now folk!
  19. So weekend rolls around time to do more tidying up to car and fix all the little things wrong with it. First cab off the rank today is a few added factory options. Being into MTB riding and that I am usually dragging a bike in and out of the back of this thing or other big bulky items. So I saw in the factory options list the corolla could come with a factory scuff guard. So one was placed on order and showed up and installed. Pictures below: Before snapping picture I had used boot and mat so yes got it dirty straight away and is great to use. Just flick it out and over bumper keepng car safe :) After that the stock car carpet in these things is CRAP. Mine isnt worn out but its that plastic backed rubbish stuff. Doesnt feel good under foot. So I ordered a full set of OEM car matts for the car. Much better feel factory clips to hold to floor and they fit perfectly so I got a set of them some snaps below: Front passenger Passenger Rear: Rear Boot: NOTE: This mat your saying looks....wrong...It is, I got a wagon mat. They are longer and farly well fit hte sides. Reason is when seats are laid down mat goes over it a bit protecting back of seat from pedals dirt etc from stuff and bikes so is big. Also the bumper scuff guard is under mat with tab that hangs over it to pull out in a hurry. After fitting new mats and bumper protector I fitted a new air con system filter/pollen filter. The South African ZZE123 when delivered to Australia the air con was never "fitted" This was a part of the package the dealer had to fit when car arrived on shore. This was due to this model being a "global design" and what ever country took shipment of ride was "kitted" to spec for their country. Problem is I removed glove box and noticed the filter tray was NON EXISTANT......So First thing to do was find a tray....Looked in a few of these at wreckers etc all cars had tray missing. Some had a plastic blanking plate some had NOTHING like my car. So picture below of my unit missing tray: Problem is when your missing tray fan turns and air PUMPS out this slot thus blowing on back of glove box and getting shit air flow from vents. So next port of call was to buy new. The Australian parts book for this car DIDNT list a tray. So after soem research I found the JDM parts book part number for a tray and ordered it in. Toyota wanted a FORTUNE for the filter so I got a Bosch item to suit. Snap below: NOTE: Tray is pictured with ANOTHER filter froma camry. This filter was a test. They are to thick and not the right size. How ever camry filter was PERFECT size for hole in unit so could slide into dash fan filter slot throw tape over front you have filter if you want to avoid getting a tray. But instead I got filter to fit tray: This filter has foam edge to seal it so all air is forced through the filter material. Need less to say after fitting filter and tray and sealing fan unit the AIR flow INCREASE through the vents was HUGE. Air con thus worked better etc etc and air was filtered. Best little tidy up I have done :) Till next update :)
  20. HOLLY SMOKES $550 3 core..... I had a worked 5K in my KE15. I fitted a 3 core radator $300. USed stock radator my local radator shop buys in the 3 core stuff solders it in adds a metal drain cock in bottom and welds a bracket on for me for a overflow can and tests it for me. The 3 core I asked once he gets it from ADRAD. In my KE15 and my KE11 where I did this I had to take off radator top pannel slide radator down in front of the support and using long bolts/studs screw into car and using nuts space radator. This stopped the radator hittinf fan as they become thicker. May have a picture but easy mod. NEVER got over temp was great. But at $550 to do that walk away. And last one I had doen was only 7 ish months ago. So price shouldnt have changed that much.....But I do supply a good core to make intoa 3 core radator....
  21. Well Time for updates: Since this Weekend is a long Easter weekend I have spent some time doing a fair few things to the car as I needed study breaks and have a fair few updates for the thread. But First update today is a simple easy mod of a higher pressure radiator cap. Stock 2zz motor has a cap with a pressure rating of 0.9kg/cm^2 TRD cap has a rating of 1.3kg/cm^2 If you want to have a read of what the higher pressure does to the engine coolant temps etc have a read here: http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2011/06/beating-the-heat-advantage-of-a-high-pressure-radiator-cap/ Good simple site to explain its function. So Along with the cap I installed a new water pump OEM Toyota. 2zz are known for chewing through idler arms and water pumps from what I have researched...And sure enough both of mine hit 160,000km and are both on last legs. Idler rattles and belt slips and water pump through inspection hole on front pulley is starting to weep red coolant. I have seen 2zz pumps weep then over night just let go so while doing cap I did pump. So cooling system has new Toyota coolant, new OEM water pump and a new TRD cap. This will keep temps down on race day. Driving to work I have never seen temps move off the normal spot on stock dash gauge but on race day can get up a bit. So after this mod and more which I shall post soon cooling won't be of a concern for a while :) Few pictures below of radiator cap: Cap: Before: After:
  22. Sure can. Just have to enlarge holes on chassis rail wherew box bolts on then presto its in.
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