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camerondownunder88

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Everything posted by camerondownunder88

  1. I know early KE1X and KE2X had a different drive shaft to later model cars. KE30 came out with the 3 speed auto. Dare say it is get a 3speed box or see if you can adapt a smaller early KE1X yoke to late model drive shaft. Will handel less power and 3speeds are every where so dare say wont fit. Cameron
  2. can be sealed BUT hard... Other month I put a NEW seal in front timing cover and a machined front pulley all restored etc and still get a small leak from there in my 3K in the KE11. MANY MANY points in a k motor kinda leak/weap over the years Toyota changed stuff over the years to improve it and that. Takes some work but by removing fuel pump running external one resealing sump with OEM gasket etc and lapping surfaces and that a nice clean K motor can be assembled and run. Mine isnt spot on needs a new rear seal but other wise a few drips from front seal its pretty dry.... flogged 5k in my KE15 thats a nother story...I check fuel level at a servo and refill the oil..lol
  3. ^^^ Sure is. The dished piston 4K push rods fit straight into a 5K with solid lifters....RARE AS ROCKING HORSE POO... BUT If you look some where in my KE15 thread I worked out I can run 3F (stock 5K also) lifters with off top of head 3K push rods with large cup machined down. Running adjustable 4K rockers on steel KE70 rocker posts rockers will need a LARGE radius put in them and the back end ground away THEN since adjuster is so far out top of rocker cover has to be die grinded away OR run an old K one has less ribs and presto FITS :) So witha grinder a few old 4K's and that can work and hey seen well over 8000RPM in my KE15 and never bent a rod or blown a ground down rocker so PARTY on... And this way don't need to get heavy as sin chev lifters with hard to get/expensive push rods. I used all stock stuff :) And as a thrird option. Take stock hydro lifter remove guts drop the seat push rod sits in all way to bottom of lifter. Use 4K push rods and 4K rockers DONE also. Reason I coulldnt do this is I destroyed a set of solid lifters and a nice cam :( Cheers Cameron
  4. Id say something from a Diesel alt that has the vac pump on back. Bosch make a few and knowing how there mounts are similar possibly a few housing mods and be bolt on. But the nitty gritty part....A) I'm getting close but sealing up a K motor is HARD work..lol But my ke11 nearly has a clean bay and has gone 10,000km and hasnt needed oil top up :) B) low friction rings. I take it the engine your building is for racing. Most K motor stuff be run of the mill STD rings. Id say a nice set of custopm made ones would match but big $$$. C) running vac set ups on V8's can net say 50HP....K motor...has about 50HP new lol So marginal gains....for a lot of ucking around. Not to discourage you I have always though of the idea love to try it on a K motor never had a dyno or time etc...So go for it Ill be watching to see results. Cheers Cameron
  5. Hi, KE1X cars only came out with a K40. Have the shifter right up high on the extension housing. Ratios were the same. Cameron
  6. Yep I think installer drove pin home cocked off to side a bit bolted up cam and it had a weak spot and SNAP. And torque of bolt just couldnt handel it. Have the old lumpy stick in the shed. Needs a regrind as when it was shifting destroyed some of the lash ramps and peaks of the cams and the face e sprocket meets with isnt "flat" any more so needs a dress in a lathe. But yeah from a glance could see NOTHING wrong. Apart from my timing and car runnign like CRAP. So pin can go yes. Cameron P.S. Like TRD KEaid I still think you have an electrical issue....id head for coil and dizzy. Do you run a new dizzy cap? Also run a tacho? I had a cheap 2 inch tacho in a KE30 and it was shorting on the inside made for a few miss f so even try removing things to reduce the amount of problem spots to try to solve issue.
  7. Hi, Are you in the Brisbane area? I usually use the Toyota method as follows: 1. Slide in new cam shaft (if you got it reground) 2. Attach thrust plate to hold in cam. Making sure mark on front of thrust plate is on LOWER side closest to crank. 3. Align pin of cam shaft with mark on thrust plate. 4. Grab large cam sprocket and the little mark or some have the TEQ logo stamped on it align this mark with the bright chain link. 5. gram small sprocket align the timing dot on it with other painted chain mark. 6. slide both gears and chain onto cam and crank at same time. 7. Torque and beer. Now if you need a straight edge that goes from crank dot to cam pin and then to large timing wheel dot use dip stick if not bent. Simple Also another tip if your timing chain has ONE coloured link easy hold by that link let gravity do its work and link that is lowest to ground grab niko pen colour. Color is up to users choice. Can recoment a whte one. Remember crank goes around twice for one reveloution of cam so chain is divide by two and links at end are the half way/alignment links. Also when removing a cam useless fact cyclinder head bolts are the same thread and LONG great for screwing in a tad and giving a nice hand grip to SLLIDE the cam straight out the block. As for the high cam badge on car..Marketing. Same as all K motors. nothing flash. Was to try and dress the 4k's up as having a high up cam like an over head cam right???lol Also photo two of yours above hard for me to see BUT to me it looks like your large cam gear is adjustable :S if I'm correct you will need a degree wheel and some wire to dial this in and can be used for "fine" tuning a cam. Not really for a beginner. But hey we all have to learn so if it is think of it as more skill building. Cameron
  8. Cool... Also should note chain dampener is the flat long metal one not the spring loaded one. If gap is over 13.5mm from face of metal housing to back of tensioner show then yeah worn. Worth doing as you said $70 for peace of mind worth it. Grooves in the shoe keen to see pictures. As new shoes have some grooves moulded into them to guide the chain a but so some grooving is ok excessive then bad..lol Cheers Cameron
  9. Hi, Just read over your topic and have you re-installed a new chain yet? What change was noted? After reading it I'm keen to know what the change was as I feel your problem ISNT the timing chain. I once had a K motor the 1L OLD KE10 engine. It made a HORID noise when running. It was the timing chain hitting the cast aluminium housing it had streched THAT much. Was a single row also. Reason I eventually swapped the motor (was easier than timing chain) old K motor developed an oil leak...where...from the timing cover where the chain hit it that much wore down then cracked it....The whole time this was happenign car did NOTHING like that. I just turned dizy did best tune I could engine ran FINE. How ever I have had a few similar things happen to my KE15 once was a snapped cam shaft other time was coil issues on ignition system. So cam shaft issue. Bought a 5K put in my KE15 was told rebuilt. So poped a new dizzy on after engine swap and car was out like 15 degress...mmm funny. Electronic dizzy due to cast of housing can only be retarded so much. So at full retard I couldnt even get factory spec. So I pulled out dizzy re aligned mmm no go....So got a points dizzy put in forced it to factory timing. Car started great....Try to drive. DAM got over 2000RPM power drop then push rods 1 got bent. So fixed rod though ah tune is out. Drove again back fired through carby while driving no power once warm wouldnt start after turning off only JUST start when cold. So out comes cam...I found the pin in the front of the cam shaft had sheered. With nut on big timing gear couldnt see this. But gear was slipping on cam. I fixed issues with other things and then slipped more and problem got worse. So not a "worn" timing chain but when removing it cam was out equivelent about 2 teeth. But I played with SO many sub systems engine did run....Not well. So see if anything is broken... The second time was an ignition coil. After a few RPM car would miss pop out carby lose power then be fine get hot and stop etc. Coil was jsut STUFFED. was an original coil put a new one on ran like a dream so id be tempted to go dizzy also. Check the earth strap on advance plate. Seen many they contact when stopped but is actually broken. As dizzy advances comes apart car pops and stalls so lose vac advance or if you put foot flat on go pedal dizzy retards wire touches bang engine runs. OR seen many a seized dizzy advance plate from no one putting lube on them when serviceing so is dizzy advancing properly. Earthing out etc. To me seems electrical. But am keen to see what your new chain does. But a side note Toyota do have a few limits to determine the wear on a K motor timing chain they are: When installed the gap from front of tensioner housing to back face of the rubber shoe is NO MORE than 13.5mm when 10kg of pulling force is pulled on chain at link in middle of tensioner. ALSO With chain removed with 5kg pulling force max limit is 272.7mm To find wear on sprockets throw chain around small one so rollers fill the sprocket and throw micrometer over it diameter should be 59mm for large cam sprocket limit is 114mm. Also thickness limit on tensioner shoe is 12.0mmso from front of shoe to back face of shoe with vernier. Chain damper thickness limit is 4mm. So with those messurements see what you go. Might find chain is still good. Id definatly go dizzy issue then. Cheers Cameron
  10. two carbs both the same. Operate like a single. Jets were smaller in twins.
  11. For a jack I went at first got a cheap supercrap jack..Bought biggest they had was like 3T. Corolla was 600kg so did job FINE. But when jacking really heavy cars used to slowly sink DOWN...so it died after about a year. So I was actually on the Snap on truck at work...4Ton trolley jack lowest setting was about 70mm lifted to over half a meter light as had the rapid pump was about 3 pumps from all down to all up with no load AND was in promo so got 2 free axle stands with jack for $400. Still workign love it. ALso when I bough this got me in comp to win a snap on massive rattle gun...AND I WON..lol so find a snap on truck do a deal if you ever have issues drop it back take another one and they had smaller jacks cheaper to so don't also have to spend $400 so migth be worth a look. Cameron
  12. Car was nick named "kermit" after the frog if its hte one I'm thinking of green went under a full resto for the guys daughter... He makes guitar for a living his hand skills are killer and the car shows this quallity when looking closely.
  13. Hi, Need some mind power by some gurus on here to help me with my idle issue... The other day was driving my KE11 and when crusing down a road at any speed if I jumped off the noise pedal car would pop a bit (so lean out pops ok all cool). Pops started to get more frequent when off the throttel so I figured car running a tad lean. Then BOOM car stopped ideling. But when driving with throttel open 100% fine. So I did the whole undo idel screw blow some compressed air in to clear idle jets spray in some carby cleaner put screw back in. Toyota specs say start at 3 turns off shut. Due to a semi mild cam (kicks in around 3500RPM) my idel screw is 3 and 3/4 off seat. Idel speed I run 750/800 RPM. With dizzy set at 10 degrees at idel with no vac lines attached. So after blowing out jets car ran like a DREAM :) So now comes today crusing on high way in 4th gear at 100km/h. Did a slight wrong and over took a car in right lane and accelerated and though ah pop foot to floor full song and then pull back in so I did acceled up to 120 ish over took jumped in left lane again jumped off throttel to coast back to 100. BAM Jump off throttel and car rolled on then started missing......didnt wanna hold speed struggeled to do 80km/h. So tapped throttel a few times and car then seemed to run. Did 100km/h for rest of trip home (30km). Get home car WONT idel stalls out. Ok did air compressor trick with idle jet popped it back in 3 and a 3/4 turns off seat start car BAM runs FINE. So go inside for the arvo. Now I had to go out this evening. start car tad of choke due to large cam hates a fresh cold start. Reverse out gate. about 3 streets away choke off BAM car wont idle. Now also if I have throttle a few dregrees open so idel jet isnt in play and were running off main primary jet then car runs FINE no shudder hesitation on accel nothing. Back off throttel vacuume comes in and car shudders wants to stop running hesitates etc. Seems to only happen with high vac pressures and when idel jet is in play. So I pulled over and though step two. Remove vac line to dizzy advance and block. No better still wont idle. So pulled over again (oh side note car at full operating temp so not cold not hot jsut nice) out comes torch peak in dizzy thinking little copper braid in dizzy as it advances might be coming apart and then dizzy shorts. NOPE electronic 5K dizzy no lead all electric. So shut bonnet drive home just can idel at lights. Now if car stalls at lights I have to have accelerator at least 50% open can feel secondary linkage touch and will start or give two FULL pumps of pedal. So kinda stumped. Thinking tomorrow ill be ripping top OFF carby see if more gunk is in slow jet primary or secondary jet etc. But short list of engine specs: Apparently rebuilt 3K mild cam 3500RPM start stock air box NEW airfilter 1 week old Stock KE11 carby no polution gear no PCV etc stock early straight runner manifold slightly ported head extractors 5K electronic dizzy GT40 non resistor coil KE70 starter motor KE70 4 speed manual. NEW fuel filter a meatl Ryco type off fuel injected car filters much finer than paper rubbish So ANY ideas would help. Issue seems to start when I went from FULL throttel to jammed shut and on coast down generating a large vacuume. Also noted storms in QLD last night car was in rain though ah water in fuel tank half full so filled also tonight with E10 to help suck up any water and a cup full of metho. Normaly I chose 91 unleaded. Any ideas/help apprecated. Sorry for shit house spelling. Cheers Cameron
  14. Looks like a simple procedure to do this can't see why wouldn't work for your 4a conversion in your KEX. What it looks like is a simple plate on right hand side (red steel) with the pivot ball attached to it. From top of my head these balls screwed into the gearbox on a K50 (one on patio but can't look at it atm) so simple procedure of make plate to fit in corner drill tap lock tie in ball done. Use original hydro clutch fork. Hydro setups usually get pushed so the fork still pushes bearing into the clutch cover. So take off hydraulic cylinder make a provision for cable and bing. Pull forwards. To do this well feel there are 2 critical sizes needed. A) distance from face of throw out bearing to clutch cover. If this is nonexistent clutch will spin this bearing over heat fail or clutch only ever be half engaged and slipping. So Id find a T50 do a drop height from face of bell housing to surface of a throw out bearing fully retracted. Use a T50 from a 4a. Or any 4a gearbox. This will give you distance you need to have baring sitting BACK from flex plate of engine allowing a standard clutch to fit in the gap. B) height of pivot ball. could measure from face of bell housing down to top of a clutch fork that you will use subtract clutch fork thickness in ball area to find distance to ball. If ball to low throw out bearing won't move enough so clutch wont fully disengage. After that rest should be easy. This would mean no hydro setup etc in pedal box. Also to me this way seems easier if all can be bolted onto a gearbox a person with no welder could easily achieve this. Also opens up HEAPS of room for improvement. Play with length of clutch fork to make the movement of the bearing faster giving you a faster acting clutch etc etc. Work out the ratio of pedal movement to clutch fork movement and play make it shorter etc etc. I say get a gear box depth micrometer and start :) Not rocket surgery... Cameron P.S. I do see on KP61 member who posted pics is Tojo...He is a member here so go to forum members section serch "tojo" send a PM ;)
  15. Hi, From above comments... A KE70 4 speed shifter will fit a KE70 K50 box YES... A K50 from a late model KE70 will fit a T50 box same shifter.... HOWEVER Early KE70 earboxes the shifter is slightly smaller and will not fit the T50 box. Later ones are larger and do fit :) Found this out when cutting up gear sticks to make a short shifter. Made one froma K40 shifter from a KE70 go to put it on my K50 in a KE30...Wont fit...to small.....thats when I started looking and in KE70 there are two sizes. I found larger shifters on the later boxes. And the later box shifter is the SAME as a T50 so T 50 short shifter kits are bolt on to K50 boxes froma KE70 :) Cameron
  16. What are the meassurements for the width and length of the mounts? Are you getting seats engineered? Keen to fit seats soon to my KE10 and currently doing my reserch :) Cameron
  17. Hi, Been looking into getting new seats for the KE10 of mine. Currently runs really badly installed KE20 items. Don’t want to spend money on re upholstering them and don’t want to re-do KE10 low back items as they are not as safe. So you see in the shops the Autotecnica or SAAS items. Some on the tag say they are ADDR approved. So the ADR in mind is ADR 3. http://www.infrastru...sign/pdf/03.pdf It tells me it is applicable after years 1971 (using earliest date) Production date on the KE11 is 6 month 1970. So if I was to get a for example ADR approved SAAS seat fit it to the KE10 technically I have UP graded my car as now doesn’t run low back seats and a more modern seat would be a bit safer in design etc. So should I get this mod engineered? I know the police can give grief on these but for newer cars I can see why as airbags etc can be removed. But for an older car is it an as big a deal? Also has anyone experienced fitting these. I see some come with "Universal" mounts and seat tracks and KE1X cars seat mounts are a simple square pattern 4 bolts can’t go wrong. Cheers Cameron
  18. Hi, Currently under going a diff upgrade in my KE15 and when I removed the stock diff I pulled the leaf springs off and the original saddle pads were worn out. Saddle pads: http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/images/P/15012lg.jpg I have done some reading and found a few places where people suggest throwing them in the bin. Why...They say it tightens up the rear end for better handeling. Now if I run leaf spring directly in contact with diff you would have metal to metal wear.. With pad would stop this.... So I'm in two minds find ones that fit and get new ones OR don't install them and have a better rear end feel etc. What are other peoples views on this? Cheers Cameron
  19. Hi, You will be correct in that is an early K motor rocker cover. My KE15 has this setup still I call it the Granny pipe or walking stick polution control system. All the KE1X series has is that large hole and rubber connected another walking stick shapped pipe to it that dumped all fumes under car coating it in a nice crossion preventitive oil layer. Later they fitted a PCV valve. I have found the valve fits this hole all the rubber come with valve and fills it. Obviously Toyota didnt change their mould at the foundry and designed a PCV valve to suit. As for the other connection your missing just drill tap a thread and brass fitting. If I was you run a catch can. And then run catch can to air cleaner etc so its not venting over board and keep police happy. But This is just something I think about. Under a vaccume oil foams less....if your racing engine hard oil will foam....Have a catch can that goes to carby/inlet when it gets a vaccume applied crank case gets vaccume and keeps oil under control. I have been looking at this recently as I want to add it to my KE15 not sure how yet. I even know some cars use a vaccume pump to suck block to a vaccume so Id set car up to run PCV catch can to get oil and stop it filling air filter with crappy oil and car breths clean air still. But early manifold but any KE PCV valve will fit and in my KE15 this jsut goes over board. Cheers Cameron
  20. Hi, There seems to be a cluster of KE1X sprinters in QLD..lol I know of another one out lowood way and now yours and mine in Ipswich region and then you say there is one at beaudesert. And I know of about 3 in Brisbane city. Tomorrow Ill get a pic off my car in the shed see its colour. ut possibly different colour different market.... Cheers Cameron
  21. Project Sprinter: I popped into Road and Track the other week and was supprised to find your KE17 there :) Had a good look over it I liked what I saw. Can only dream of my KE15 being at that standad one day. As for badges. Ones on my KE15 are in OK condition. My coloured in laid squares are 100% green. So weather the change from green to blue happened between the KE15/17 model who knows. don't have my part number book for the KE1X sprinters handy (its in a box as I jsut moved house) so I can't check if there were multipul "badges" for this car. Cheers Cameron
  22. Wagn, Thanks for that info is good to know. ATM I will try running a stock leaf pack and I have the greens on 4th click (middle playing it safe.lol) yet to put LSD in car jsut got diff back from powder coaters and waiting to get back to work so I can build center up and fit. But good to know it adds traction. After LSD I think ill do steering box in KE15 then better wheels then motor.....list is growing..lol lcal: Link sorry can't do :( Just trawling the net and working in the airline industry helps a tad getting parts on the ground so just keep your eyes open and you will find. Also keep in mind old TRD gear is called TOSCO the CDI I got in the KE15 is a TRD/TOSCO branded unit. Also old TE27 era adjustable TRD shocks are usually the compress and twist adjust method. Pain full. So if you see them get but I personally would avoid as the later easier to adjust stuff fits and travel limits is suited to the car.
  23. Sourced my new in box KP61 TRD front shocks and my new in box TRD green rear shocks from japan. Wasnt cheap but bolt into KE15 and for what you will pay a nice shock asorber and I like how the rears are valved and easy to adjust.
  24. Hi, Had a look through my pictures can't find it BUT.... KE10 twin carby engines had the best exhaust. No polution rubbish so no funny casting issues. Next best thing twin carby models had water heated manifolds...the exhaust has no massive crap hole and jsut had studs that attached it to manifold for vibrations etc. Now the twin carby KE1X motor had dual outlet 4-2-1 system not 4-1... This would be the go. Good luck finding one but I found one for my KE15 cracked :( And I destroyed it welding it so mmm now hangs on shed wall to say I have one for ke15 but thats all it will ever do. Think there is a thread up atm here with KE1X sales brochures...one of these should have engine pic of SL1100 motor have a close look at manifold ;) Cameron
  25. Hi, Ill have a look see what books I can find must read up on this. Stu thanks for the information from you KE11 :) Few questions... When you floor the noise maker pedal with your rear softer rear leafs does the car squat down much etc or stay sitting at a fairly constant level and jsut move etc any info on how the rear end reacts etc? So to add information to what I'm going for here is follows: Front struts I have stock KE10 iteam 3 bolt bottom etc. Camber tops I made to suit KE1X 3 bolt pattern. I will use KE20 strut tops ditching KE10 2 part tops Front inserts I have KP61 yellow TRD inserts part number: 48511-kp652, specs are: Lenght Max: 555mm Length min: 395mm Dampening force: 140Kgf/70KgF ------> stock KP61 is 88/32kgf Springs: Got a set made (meassured wrong 1 inch to short :( ) so getting another set done to suit shocks, TRD use this shock with springs around the K=2.1-2.2Kg for rally,dirt,trail,street.....if it is for tarmac TRD used K=5.0-5.1kg springs with same shocks so....front springs I'm thinking around the 2.5kgf/mm so thats 24.5N/mm so stiffer but not CRAZY.. and again this will match the shocks. Then I have a white line sway bar to install and remove front leaf and I made some new LCA bushes for cross member. So from this front low slightly stiffer. Reason I used KP info is the KP61 was curb weight of 749kg KE15 is 710kg. So there a tad shorter but prob similar and KP had a K motor hanging over front shocks and a light ass end same as a KE15. So now rear end: I run stock springs (kinda need a reset they sit flat when parked in driveway and nothing in car. And the anti squeak pads made from asbestos inbetween leafs has fallen away over time and leaves rivets are loose etc there dead. Shocks: TRD 8 way adjustable greens don't have there specs on hand. Set on about 4 half way as any softer I run 13 inch wheels on 15 now will bottom out over some bumps due to leafs being dead. So rear end jsut for some info on a KP61 stock rear springs were rated at: 1.9kgf/mm TRD rally dirt springs are 2.2kgf/mm and tarmac are 5.0kg/f. TRD in rally spec run rear end slightly harder by 0.1kgf/mm across all options while in tarmac racing run rear 0.1kgf/mm softer across all spring options. So idea in my head is if I run 2.5kg/f front springs possibly go 2.4kgf/mm leaf springs in back........ Now for hard part anyone in brisbane know who can reset add or remove leafs from packs taking about an inch from ride height AND being able to build them to a spec spring rate? Or am I dreaming? Also for those at home here is stock KE1X in general spring info: (I say KE1X general as KE15/17 had harder springs stock and KE10 4 door and some sedans had softer springs etc Toyota played a bit here) Front Shocks: Max length: 644mm Min length: 453mm Stroke 191mm dampening force: 32-48kg in dampening and 34-46kg in rebound (dam soft as a stock KP is 88kg dampening/32 rebound so rebound softer here) Front springs: Leaf: two leaf pack 1.65kg/mm spring rate (stock KP springs are 1.8kg/mm) Coil springs: 4 coils 0.59kg/mm rate So again very similar to KP so I'm leaning towards kp kinda settings see how I go. Also Stu got info on a rear sway bar? If I fit LSD have a feeling ill need one... Cheers Cameron
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