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Project Sprinter

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About Project Sprinter

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    Gary

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  1. As posted to a thread on KE10/11 colours...and with further great fear of the wrath of the forum admin; we've (our company - Toyota Heritage) been doing a heap of research into AMI paint codes and colours, and the artwork of the decals that carried the information. From my KE10/11 thread: We have done our research across a vast number of sources including former AMI employees, and the additional AMI assembled brands of Rambler and Triumph. What I can categorically say is just when you think its all 100% correct you will find yet another anomaly. For example the above mentioned Desert Beige - appears on a handful of AMI colour charts sporadically through out the years...but is probably the most constant colour, with slight changes to the mix, throughout nearly the whole time AMI assembled Toyota vehicles. We have also found that if a colour was 'available' in a certain year that it was essentially available for the years after due to painted bodies that carried forward into the subsequent year, and where demand was still strong. Before bursting into print - please remember I am initially talking broadly about AMI colours here. We have noticed that the arguments for Toyota colours are the most consistent though. Specific to his thread: In some cases we have found 'Build Plates' such as the one on your car provide colour as either a 'part number' or 'manual reference' as opposed to the actual paint code for mixing. Some paint suppliers have the cross references though, others don't. Also on build plates; its a myth that they were all riveted on...many have screws in what we have found. Full imported cars have screws as a starting point, and then we have found AMI cars to be the same. My best assessment of the colour of your car is that as a previous post said, if its is 1972 build and if it is an AMI assembled vehicle - its in fact 'Big Bad Orange' with paint code 566-13757. This colour was popular with the Rambler Hornet and also the Javelin. That's a 'relative' view point based on how few of these were produced compared to Toyota models. Our current range of decals supporting the 1967-68 build years can be found here: http://www.toyotaher...xt#.WDJKgvl96Uk Please note am putting this in the thread for mutual benefit. We hope to get a pic of each colour applied to a vehicle to assist owners identifying their car's colour. The range will expand to subsequent years, colours and the various decal artwork designs. Keep watching for more - Big Bad Orange is in our next batch after the ones we are working on now.
  2. With great fear of the wrath of the forum admin; we've (our company - Toyota Heritage) been doing a heap of research into AMI paint codes and colours, and the artwork of the decals that carried the information. We have done our research across a vast number of sources including former AMI employees, and the additional AMI assembled brands of Rambler and Triumph. What I can categorically say is just when you think its all 100% correct you will find yet another anomaly. For example the above mentioned Desert Beige - appears on a handful of AMI colour charts sporadically through out the years...but is probably the most constant colour, with slight changes to the mix, throughout nearly the whole time AMI assembled Toyota vehicles. We have also found that if a colour was 'available' in a certain year that it was essentially available for the years after due to painted bodies that carried forward into the subsequent year, and where demand was still strong. Before bursting into print - please remember I am initially talking broadly about AMI colours here. We have noticed that the arguments for Toyota colours are the most consistent though. We have come across Sirius White in our research...but not via Toyota sources!! Our current range of decals supporting the 1967-68 build years can be found here: http://www.toyotaheritage.com/index.php/shop/category/97-decals-ext#.WDJKgvl96Uk Please note am putting this in the thread for mutual benefit. We hope to get a pic of each colour applied to a vehicle to assist owners identifying their car's colour. The range will expand to subsequent years, colours and the various decal artwork designs. Keep watching for more!
  3. Hi Jan Post up in wanted for some axles and diff centre. They're reasonably available from other E10 gen cars here - but shipping is going to be expensive. Best regards
  4. Hi, I recently came into possession of the lense in the photo attached here - it has markings of Koito L2352 It was given to me as a KE10 lense...but there's no way in this life time that it matches up with the lenses on my KE17 Sprinter... Anybody know what it is actually off? Did the early KE10's have a smaller lense like this one? Thanks
  5. Hi - am seeking a KE20 or KE25 steering column. Prefer great come good condition, but open to all opportunities. Many thanks
  6. We're getting a small run done of custom made 3K head gaskets to suit 76.5mm bore (nb std gasket wont accept this bore size). These can be made in varying thicknesses from 1.1 to 2mm. They can have a specially wide fire ring if using O rings in the block. Suitable also for 4K. Please let us know if you're interested - pricing will be around $220 each
  7. That would be the normal thought pattern; however the big cup end pushrods are a better proposition all around for a race engine. Then there's the 'originality' angle for non-race cars.
  8. I'd normally grab it, but have an ever increasing stock of 3K's...all with the wrong pushrods though. We think the problem comes from my 3K coming out of a Sprinter, which had a larger lift on the cam...and this requires a larger cup head to maintain contact with the ball. The KE10/11/16/18's all had a different cam (and I believe assembled locally) and therefore had much smaller cup heads...around half the size. If you can post pic of the ones you mentioned earlier I will be able to see the cup heads and let you know if they're what we need. Many thanks, Gary
  9. Do you have any pushrods - looking for specific type that will work in a 3K. Need to be 173.5mm long (174MM at longest). These are slightly shorter than most and we need 'big cup end' type. Appreciate any help. Thanks, Gary
  10. Thanks for doing this - can always rely on a Tassie lad! We've looked at shims on the rocker pedestals but we have a 'cup and head' problem with the pushrods. When we put the longer pushrods in (with different cup and head), using shims the interface between pushrod and rocker is minimal at best and there's a risk that it may push past under extreme load. If you can post a pic of the ones you have that would be really appreciated. Many thanks, Gary
  11. We've crashed and burned locally...hoping you can come to our rescue! Are you able to post a pic of the ones you have, and also can you measure accurately with say verniers etc. We need length of 174.5-175mm. Most we find are 176mm and the extra mm is where the problems start for us. Many thanks, Gary
  12. Although it has been some weeks now since Sir Jack passed away, I had at first reserved blogging anything because I wanted to see how we would as a nation chose how to best immortalise the memory of him. I may have missed something along the way here; but after the tributes flowed in the general and motoring media I have not truly seen anything that is planned and is commensurate with the legend that Sir Jack was and will always be. Just wish I had the financial wherewithal to create a museum!
  13. Thanks for this - we're pretty urgent in needing this. I have one guy here in Brisbane that I am waiting to hear back. If we don;t hear back or he hasn't got the right ones, I'll be straight back to you. Thanks, Gary
  14. Thanks for the flexplate feedback. We lightly machined the original flywheel in the end. Felxplate would have been good and still may come back to this project. Am looking for pushrods at present - 174.5-175mm long.
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