camerondownunder88

Hi, Done a cam heaps. If timing cover has studs. Get your vice grips/multi grips grab stud and remove or use the 2 nut method works a treat. Now to get cover back on.... I don't drop the sump don't even touch it. First off I get a length of waxed string. Loop it around the sump gasket and sit gasket on sump where it goes. Then I hold timing cover and from top down place it against block pushing it in. When seal starts to be pushed off the sump pull on string and POP falls into place and no oil leaks :) Or get a grinder and grind off the back lip of the timing cover. Still will hold oil in IF your gasket is good. So a few ways there to do it with NO sump removal and can leave engine mounts in. Last time with string method (I have done many cam shaft changes) I took 30min start to finish in a KE10 so once you get good at string wont take long to remove and install. Also philbey forget the No. 5 non hardening sealant :( To old. Its replacement is 515 master gasket made by loctie DAM good stuff I seal everything from cylinder heads on moto and mower with it to gas turbines I build at work good for over 1000 degrees C non flat surfaces wont harden etc. Best stuff. But be warned last time I bought some and didn't borrow works tube it was $50 for 50mL NOT CHEAP but it could seal the titanic the stuff is that good. Comes also in different grades to for different leaks etc. Cameron

Hi, I own a KE15 and drive it around so hope fully I can help. ....ok not to be a bearer of bad news BUT. I went and read your rides thread and a few other threads but could not find the info I needed. When you installed your 5K did you just remove the 5K flywheel and bolt on your KE10 flywheel and clutch??? As if you did your throw out bearing is to short :( KE1X if you look at the original box has a LONG throw out bearing retainer and if running a 5 speed with a KE1X flywheel and clutch the short 5 speed bearing retainer wont get the bearing moving far enough. Thus wont disengage. As the KE1X run a different throw out bearing arrangment. It has a bolt in arm different pivot point etc quite a few diferences. So can you enlighten us on exact parts you used? ie clutch, clutch cover, flywheel etc? Also most van 5K share same large flywheel as the 7K so I do take you removed it. If you used a normal 4K flywheel and still wont engage there has to be another problem... Cameron

Hi, I will have to agree here with GJM85 here. a KE15/17 is HARD to do anything with even to service and get parts let alone restore. Id be trying to get yours on the road first before a motor. Motor makes it go but with 40-year-old single circuit brakes and poor safety features I know I spent my money first on larger brakes suspension before thinking about my motor. as for 4k to 5k debate. I found it was pure torque :) Also 5K normally dished piston these burn better and factory put out about 2kw more than a -c variant overall there better port shape etc so start with a good base 5K. But collect 4K parts like cranks etc they fit 5k and are good for spares. Cameron

If you wanna get more advanced weld plates around the locking mech in the door. Modern cars have it stops wire poking about. Also install central locking I got a $20 kit from super crap now wont stop people breaking into your car but I found the extra force the motor had to pop the lock using packing tape and pulling the interior lock part could NOT be done packing tape poped off due to force of motor so that is an idea to. As for car getting stolen run a fuel cut valve in the fuel line. With a carby car it starts runs for like 1-2min till fuel bowl goes empty. Criminals are usually stopped at lights and car dies they leg it. Thus when you go looking for the car you jsut have to walk a street or two to find the car. As the carby runs dry it chugs and farts along so they think they stole a dud car about to break down and what criminal is going to road side fix a car...LOL Saved my KE30 many a time (6 times it has been stolen 6 times recovered). Got stolen once and with in a min of it being stolen I got a call from police asking me where my car was I said parked, they then told me no it's blocking the main street of Ipswich and the theifs were spotted running from the car. So it is a good device to have fuel cut valve with hidden unlock switch or a sequence of switches to unlock it. Many ways to wire one in could even get a jaycar scrolling code remote kit and wire it to that so only way to switch it is with your remote or anything heaps you could do. Or if you do have to park ina dodgy area I jsut take the rotor button out of my dizzy. Cameron

Des I have had similar problems in my KE30 and KE15. I once though it would be good to flush KE30 cooling system after 30 years of never being done. Before flush rad good (about 6 months old) and car never got hot. I flushed it put flushing fluid in it. After clean drained coolant added. Went driving to work next day car got hot heaps had to stop every few KM. Turned out since the crap in the motor was so baked ona dn old after flushing it cleaned a lot but also just loosened a lot. So after a drive the loose particles started flaking off and clogged my radiator. Took out rad flushed it my self never got hot again. So just because rad is new does not mean it isnt clogged. Also KE15 I found mine will run with no thermo on at all until I stop and sit at lights. If I have heater tap on so heater is on car wont get as hot sitting at lights I find in my KE15 my heater has a huge effect on the car temp. Also your KE1X if you remove bolts from radiator that supports it and use studs you can mount the radiator from the front of the panel if you follow. This will free up 20mm behind radiator between motor and can run a sucker fan with shroud. I think studs from manifolds are correct thread. I got studs ran a nut on rad installed from front of car and another bolt on top. Works makes a lot more room. Also I found in the KE15 when it had a half gone head gasket car would run hot to. But I bet here it is your rad dirty again. Cheers Cameron

Question.... You run KE15 lower wish bones with KE25 ball joints. From all I know and read and meassured my self KE25 ball joints use a different tapper on the stub shaft part of them. This is henc the different part number. Did you machine the different tapper into the wish bones? As I have seen a KE10 destroy a set of wish bones after they tried running KE20 ball joints as I helped him with a set of spare wish bones. So woundering how you got around this? But all in all id be VERY happy with that car there so much fun to drive the KE15 light and with a GZE dam fast :) 10 points top effort :) Cameron

For gear box mods what you can do is machine off a gear from the shaft and make a new one and weld it on. That is how some shops modify K40-K50 for racing guys can be done I got a quote once from my machinist at work who used to do it he could do it at home for me for $400 per gear...not cheap. Now this new gear when you get it made get them made wider thus making the load distributed more and thus stronger :) also follow this link: http://www.billzilla.org/rcar.htm#gearbox Details moving gears in a K box to make it close ratio and a better box good read. Cameron

Ah yes 40's hey. I was always under the impression manifolds took 45's only but if you ran 40's they had a step on the inside. Well if price is right i would take it all..LOL what RPM are your extractors tunend to but? They would more suit your cam and setup on that motor right? Cheers Cameron

I shot gut the rubber mounts then ;) That is all.. Also your TRD manifolds for 45mm carbies right? Cameron

KE70 some came factory with thermo fans. I use a KE70 thermo switch. Can still but was $40 when I got mine last. Just get stock switch relay fan (commodore ones I find fit KE30 huge work well and cheap) and your ready to cool. Cost me $70 in total last time for fan thermo switch and wire and relay. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Been on google etc and for the life of me can't find messurements for the TRD 4age AE86 engine mounts. The messurement I need to know is the thickness of the TRD square rubber mount for mounting the engine? Cheers Cameron

HKS make a oil cooler kit for K motors well did awhile ago. Thermostat controlled etc the lot. Pic attached....Good luck finding one..LOL Cameron

I was tempted once to buy the ebay one... But then I think there just coppies from the one on the net so held off...Let us know what kinda of copy you get from ebay. As I think TRD ke70 is on the money ;) Cameron

Des mine touch also. Ill have to get you a pic But the plate that touches is jsut for keeping dirt water oil off the brakes you can bend it ina little with a hammer and it wont touch. I lieft mine and no issues yet after 12 months on the road. Cameron

hehehe When shimming the rocker shaft supports PLEASE punch the hole in the shim for oil to flow from head to rocker shaft..LOL Bet a few people have blocked this oil hole before. Cameron

Hi, Yeah it was when I put a solid cam on my hydro's I found out that ACL gaskets are different..LOL As I needed to get my lifters out. Since 5K lifters are a larger diameter you can see where Toyota machined their bore that it cuts into the side of the block a bit and my 5K head has small machineing marks also. This allows the lifter to JUST be slid out with head on. Toyota also machine this relief into their gaskets. but since it is so slight ACL don't adn it makes changing lifters go from easy to PAIN in the ass after taking head off..LOL Cameron

Hi, Yes you can re-grind a cam for hydro lifters, roller lifters, solid lifters etc cams all vary a bit but it is a huge difference to how it works over all. don't run a solid cam on hydros will only get 2km out of engine ;) I have done that before..LOL But TheNOBBLER you said in a post any K motor cam can fit any K engine not 100% right.....in a 5K some cams are shorter. I poped a 4K cam in once and welsch plug at rear of cam punched out oil went every where but in the engine. Some K motor cams are longer must look first :) They don't all fit. Also on a 5K the lifters will come out with the head on with a Toyota head gasket. All the ACL ones I have used are not "trimmed" properly around the lifter area and stop the lifter being removed. Makes changing a 5K cam with head on harder so also an interesting note either file gasket a bit like I do or go Toyota gasket they are shapped correctly. Cheers Cameron

^^^ What cyclinder head did you start with for this build? From the pic looks like a -c style head with the larger flat areas above the exhaust ports they were cast with for air injection. These have crap exhaust ports that you need huge porting out of to make right. Also unless you have a 5k-c then then if I am seeing correctly this head will drop the compression ratio? Jsut curious in your head choice can you enlightne us more? Also plannign on up righting the motor? Who did your manifolds? Cameron

Ill add my 2c Des there are 2 different stud pattern to KE30 backing plates. They also have larger holes so you need to tap and drill the struts on the KE11. Late model KE3X have the off set hole like KE55.KE70 and wont fit KE10 unless you welled up one hole and re-drill the hole. You need early KE30 backing plates. I collected about 4 sets of backing plates from KE30 till I found the correct ones..LOL As for braking I run stock re-coed KE1X master cylinder with stock rear brakes and KE70 fronts. And this will stuff up the braking balance due to larger pistons in front brakes you need to wind rear brakes off a heap or you will lock the rear up all the time. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Anti pump up hydros can also be obtained for high revving motors. But These hydros usually are just made with large internal clearances letting oil "leak" out and not pump up. Also a stock hydro you have the push rod sitting down in it with pre-load. When you get a large cam and the lifter will now sit lower as the cam has the rear side ground down if you don't shave your rocker posts you will run less pre-load. Less pre load will also stop pump up. My cam grinder said high revving hydros easy just run bugger all preload on worn lifters he said for fast dirty high revving hydro setup. This is why other probably get away with running high revving hydros. But if your serious about revs etc. It isnt so much the hydro pumping up can be solved it is the weight. I got rid of hydros in my 5K as at excessive RPM adn with over 0.400" lift I ripped the bottom out of about 5 hydros in the motor. Another reason I got rid of hydros is that there heavy more weight moving in the valve train. I got 3F lifters (also very heavy) lightened. side wall taken down to 1.5mm thick from about 4mm stock and top cut down nearly 10mm and the bottom of them re-faced thinner so there LIGHT....This is a reason a lot of race motors go solid. There light when moded hydros are heavy. But then again I also lightened my rockers....lol I got serious but as stated above 3F lifters not cheap last quote I got from REPCO was $86 each. Toyota stock them for about $30 each. There not cheap. Also 3F lifters need either JDM 4K push rods or 4k-c push rods and lightened and modified rocker arms to get clearance or they wont work. I made a thread on here once about fitting 3F lifters and 4K-C push rods have a search you'll find it. Cameron

Thanks heaps for the usefull replys :) I am leaning towards a US brand item atm due to the exchange rate..LOL I also want to do this correctly the first time so will now be getting a reg and pump and I wouldnt trust a inbuilt reg in a pump trev have had bad issues in the past. And I definatly do want a self priming pump due to the setup of the car. What do people think about SARD gear? I hear a lot of good stuff for them all EFI but have noticed they list a carby FRP. Any one got info on that item? As for the reg if I can screw a pressure gauge into the second outlet that makes my choice better when it comes to gauges etc. Also should I mount the pump in the boot and the reg? In a the KE1X aircon manual it shows when the pump is mounted on the K motor they installed an electric pump into the boot. Now all my fuel lines are metal rubber sections all new and high pressure. Would it be advisable to boot mount the pump and reg? As space in the engine bay of the ke15 is limited and would provide a cleaner look. But if it wont pass a RWC with it in the boot ill keep it in the engine bay. Other issue is the pressure drop if reg is in the boot set at 4psi come engine bay pressure might be about 2psi so that would come into it also. Cheers Cameron

Hi, For a while now I have been re-building a set of Phh 40 mkuni/solex carbs for my KE15. Time has come to start thinking about fuel pump. I want to get rid of the mechanical pump and go electric. Now here is the stumbling point. What to choose. I have been looking at Holley Red and that but really not sure what to go with. Solex need exactly 2.84 to 4.98 PSI fuel pressure. Now link below is to the holley red pump. Has in-built pressure adjustment and pumps 0-7PSI. http://www.holley.com/12-801-1.asp Now this is just one pump. Can anyone suggest other brands etc and where I can buy one from for a good pump? After the pump ill need a fuel pressure reg and fuel pressure gauge for tuning and something fancy to look at. Now for easy of installation I want the gauge in the regulator and the gauge has to be small increments for preciseness. Again can any one suggest brand/type/where to buy for this part also? Cheers Cameron

car is white no need for hosing....... All in all looking VERY tidy fellas will be fun to ride in mark 2 when I next get the chance :) Cam

Dropped a lobe on cam shaft. If you didnt run it at 2000RPM straight away then the cam wont bed in correctly and will damage lifters. And reground cams I have seen them jsut drop a lobe snap off etc. can happen so my bed valve train. Cam

Hi, Ok I had a few electronic dizzys and Felix is correct advance curve is crap made for van torque so get them graphed. As for power the Resistor in the points ignition limits the amount of current the points can draw. By varying the resistance you can also tune the coil for best spark at set RPM. I was running a BIG accel coil a while back now with out a resistor wouldn't fire slowly increased value of resistor got to a point where coil did work and then adding more resistance changed when the coil was working "best". So now for your electronic dizzy. There are 2 wires on the internal igniter ones. First time I used one I had GT40R coil for points I wired it straight in the 2 wires from dizzy to back of the coil. Worked......not for long. The resistor dropped voltage to 8 volts. Dizzy still worked as they will work with lower voltage for cranking but they don't do it 100% of the running time. So I got new internals and kept the same coil and moved the dizzy positive wire to before the resistor. Problem fixed. Dizzy now got 12 volts and worked a treat. Still going 3rd year in-car now like this. As for coils. These performance coils have less internal resistance so the "charge" faster. There ok. But I have seen MANY stock coils put out MUCH MUCH more power. My auto electrician mate told me to go searching wreckers for Mitsubishi IMPORT ignition coils. Normal Aussie coils are like say 46mm diameter. Import coils are 49mm diameter. Not much bigger but have a LOT more windings in them and a WAY bigger spark stock. My wrecker doesnt know this and I cleaned him out of import coils at $5 a piece and WAY hotter spark than a GT40 and I use that in the KE15. Brand of coil is Diamond. So if you want a good coil look for them. But a good old ND coil is also good seen them melt them self. But personally I am sold on CDI systems now. My stock KE15 coil 10,000V at idle when tested. With CDI I could max out spark tool with same coil and at times I would see 4 sparks crossing the gap on the tool. So even look at getting a CDI kit or unit worth their money. Only thing to remember CDI sparks and shorter but more power . Non-CDI coil sparks longer duration less power I found with CDI I had to advance dizzy a little but I did get lot better fuel burn I even wound mixture screw in on dizzy a bit so worth it. Cameron Oh BTW. a KE1X has no resistor factory. So id go GT40 wiht no need for resistor and whack on electronic dizzy if this is you easiest option Tom.