camerondownunder88

Flip clamp 180 degrees bolt wont be near pitman arm and will still get correct clamping force. Or get a GOOD band clamp any direction it is put on will clamp it jsut get a good one done up TIGHT... As that is to close for comfort for me. When car is flat on ground with weight on it and the parts all move does it get closer to the pitman arm? Cameron

^^^ Not 100% true. Late model KE70 K50 boxes share the same shifter. Can pick them as it is a larger base. I made a short shifter once for a larger KE70 box once and well blew it up and my replacement was a early box with different shifter :( But that late large shifter WILL fit a T box. Nothing early will but. So if your thinking K40 from KE10 to T50 box wont work. Cameron

Hi, That blower looks mighty nice in your KE11... Taz that blower used to live in Brisbane on a KE15 Cameron

You have the seal up the right way. Also your manual isnt 100% correct either when it says install seal to SAME depth. This isnt jsut some old trick that is jsut done it is also done on aircraft etc and many things with these types of seals. Over time the seal wears a groove in the metal part. And starts to leak. Now if you put a new seal in there same depth the lip will be running in the groove and in a lot of cases can leak. now a way around this is to install the seal higher/lower (depends where original seal was) so the sealing lip is now on a fresh section of shaft. This can be done by shimming the installing tool or shimming the seal going into the seal holder. But by the looks of the rebuilt motor your crank shaft wont have a groove and will be a nice fresh surface so jsut seat the seal hard in and drive away for another 500,000Km lol Cameron

Early K motor pumps also have a detachable oil pick up. There the ones you want when up righting a K motor so you can take it off make a new pick up and off you go :) Also TRD for the K oil pump made a spacer that went between body and pick up and put a T motor oil pump gear in it. Higher flow then so that is an option if your looking at modding it. Cameron

Have you had issues with your points bouncing atm? I know one trick is run the later Bosch dizzy and put in holden XU-1 points there a stronger spring so will hold 8000RPM+ happy could try that. If not My KE15 with the early ND dizzy had a factory red line of 7000RPM. I have taken mine to 8000RPM (tacho stopped there) lol and points didnt cause issues. But I do run a CDI unit so it is picking up the signal more so that using it to switch so my points gap isnt as critical. As from personal experence a stock corolla dizzy in good condition will see 8000RPM no issues. Again I am not sustaining at this RPM so really it is a matter of what are you aloud to change in your class of racing and you might be able to play with different K dizzys lots of options. Cameron

Hi, You finally saw me :) I flasha nd see you all the time..LOL So thats me :) Cam P.S. Also saw you today actually got to meet you :) Awesome...also spotted many many many other rollaclub people today :)

Hi, I was all ready to race I had entered... But due to current condition of KE15 enigne I will now not be racing but coming for a look so Ill be there :) Will drive the KE15 so keep your eyes open taxi orange sounds bad etc..LOL Cameron

Hi, My 5K did this at about 7000RPM was found to be my ignition coil. I had points and was able to vary the resistor to get it not to by tuning coil. Electrical Id susspect your advance vac system. What cam is in it? Currenlty I run 276 degrees duration cam and with twin down drafts I run 10.3:1 CR and a TRD CDI. I can set my base timming to 18 degrees at idle. Any less it pings under load or when I put my foot flat to the floor and I lose all vac advance and the mechanical advance isnt graphed to the cam correctly. So motor misses a bit at 3200RPM and again at 3750RPM after that smooth sailing to 8500RPM. Also my cam comes in at 3500RPM. I know from my old electric dizzy it had a very aggressive advance weigh set up in it from stock to make torque for a van so if you have a bigger cam get dizzy regraphed might help. As for sump I have a 5K sump from a van with no oil level sensor and it bottomed out on my KE30 and KE15 cross member nothign a hammer didnt fix. But first look at your engine mounts. K motor mounts do vary between models some longer shorter etc. Are you running original KE70 mounts? Cameron

Hide it under the battery tray. That is where mine is plastic hose goes in right direction and down so looks like I dump still but hid a small bottle under battery tray I can still easily get at. Helps I have a larger battery tray also I use a battery that could start a V* over kill but hey..LOL Let us know how your radator comes up. Cheers Cameron

My KE11 I had once and my KE15 all have perfect hood linings. No rear seat belts and Just looked in my Toyota parts book for KE1X and can't see rear belts listed in any of them apart from the Jap released 4 dr KE1X. And there lap sashes. Cameron

Hi, Trev mine was what you said. Top and bottom tank off and poke and solder back up..LOL If I had the level of energy required Id do it my self but...CBF at the time. As for lack of over flow bottle this helped my car HEAPS. After one run when water expanded and pushed some out when cooled created the air gap. Now my 5K is 10mm taller than stock motor and slightly upright more. So the air gap if I got it hot put air into the head. On next drive would heat up hotter than normal air would be pushed out then hey temp drop all of a sudden wasnt good. Over flow tank stopped this and keeps things cooler. A must have. Also change your radiator cap when you do this to a return type. Also mine is a KE25 manual rad so no lower cooler. BUT mine is re-cored and was off Redwarfs old KE25 rally car so has a thicker core by a lot so I lost all my spare room. Interesting to know that to about the TA22 radiator. Gives me options for down the track. Cheers Cameron

Hi, My clean and flush was also $70 from local company did a crap job..LOL Wont use them again As for radator I use a KE25 one bolts straight in. So KE2X might of differed a bit. But it is thicker. So now I have about 10mm between engine and radator so have to run a pusher fan. My KE15 worked 5K sits on lower line of gauge think that mark is 74 degrees in my hand book if it is accurate. I found but slightest blockage and car gets hot fast especally in traffic. I have had a lot of cooling issues with 5K and KE15 but slowly sorting it now. Cheers Cameron

Yes agree with Felix this way is fastest for K motors in KE1X As for starters early starters have the solinoid closer to extractors. Later KE70 types have it closer to motor to stop heat being an issue so use a later one. As for starter mount in KE15 I have the bolts that help it on screwed into the gear box. Later KE's had through bolts with nut so all I did was drilled out my KE15 and put on a KE70 starter with through bolts solved..LOL So starter swaps on KE1X are never straight fowards..LOL Cameron

K motors could have air injection on them stock. All flat top piston K heads if you run your finger along the top of the exhaust port they have a hole in them for it cast in. That is why there a crap port design and the first thing you do is port them. BUt some one has taken your injection off and blanked it. No surprise. Cameron

If it is an early big port head you have smaller valves. If your other head is a 3K head then it should have the later larger valve. I take it you can't bore your block bigger? If your not aloud to then you can't use gemini valves they will hit the cyclinder walls. Cameron

Ok Early K motor heads had large ports small valves. Same as the 2K motor. Toyota then installed larger valves around the time of the 3K in the KE1X. So early to late 1970ish. When we say bigger valves we mean same size valve any KE7X,KE55,KE30 has. When you see a K or 2K valve their small Toyota went to larger valves in all later heads adn that is what you see in any K motor head. So if you looking for large corolla valves just go get a 4K head off a KE70. The only way factory which they get larger is with a TRD valves. RARE AS ROCKING HORSE POO. But why do you want larger valves? If you bore a 4K out think it was 60 thou pop the exhaust valve in the inlet and a Gemini vavle will fit exhaust and is larger. MUST bore motor to do this or gemini valve will hit. This is what my engine builder has done and was going to do for me but I changed plans. Did involve a lot of machining so wasnt going to be cheap either. Cameron

Link: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=41899 Read my long post that is all. Cameron

Felix you could just never tune them right :D Des, my 2 cents... After running twin carbies on the KE15 I have an original OLD set and a later KE50 set. Few differences are needle and seat. Early carbies run a smaller needle and seat and no kit I can find has the smaller needle and seat so parts can be hard for these suckers. After getting mine tuned there awesome for reliability I find BUT after just putting in a cam there crap can't tune them ;) (well with out modding jets etc and I don't wanna do that) If you also after the original look you will need to buy a set With original filter box and the special filters they need as In all my years I have owned and seen 1 original twin carbie KE1X series air filter box and it is on my sprinter most people dumped them back in the day so if your after originality will be HARD. So I'm actually with Felix here even though your ride is VERY neat I think a single down draft webber might be the best for your case here. Cameron

Hi, Still alive :hmm: not much changed with kart but it is now chrome, cadnium, gold, anodized etc everywhere hated look of paint and hey paint can't handel the heat. But that one is slow now....new one in the stable being built..should be about 160HP this time minimum thinking a Jr dragster for the next one want to get a 1/4 mile time..LOL Cameron P.S. Fastest car I own KE15. not sure of top speed speedo stops at 105mph. 0-60mph never times should do that one day.

When was this last heard to be at a wrecker? I once saw a gun metal grey sprinter along the ipswich motor way and have never been able to find the owner..LOL Cameron

Spark checker is one of those dodgey ones with 2 probes that attach to spark lead and earth other end and wind out to marks from 0 to 40,000Volts. Is a guide nothing more. What I want to do is make a clamp probe for my multi meter that will handle the volts but that is on the to do list way down at number 300..lol But reason I wired it up wiht the 12V KE1X coil is that in the manual my bad Jap translation says suitable for both types...obviously not..LOL Cameron

Oh BTW..... Didnt bother testing old condenser out with old in with new. Also these points do melt shaft and die has been 1000miles on the odometer. Cameron

Hi, Ok did over time so didnt get as much done as I wanted to but here goes. On way home bought a new dizzy cap, dizzy rotor, points, condenser. I installed new condenser and while at it checked the resistance from the bolt that condenser attaches to that has the points wire to it to the dizzy housing. Infinant :jamie: excelent no ground leak. Installed points. Gapped and lubed dizzy shaft. While at it poped off centre bung and oiled dizzy 2 shafts for the advance mech (no one ever does this the amount of K dizzys that are seized I get..LOL) Poped on new cap and new rotor button (not in that order). took out CDI loom. Put back stock KE1X wire. Fired car up ran fine. Got spark tester out 12,000V is all I could get with a pissy weak spark. :bash: The CDI hit 40,000V HUGE hot visicous spark multipul times so difference HUGE> I am still using stock KE1X coil Tomorrow I will install my KE3X coila nd resistor I have in the shed and there is some stray wires in the KE15 loom that the original owner put in so I will also while at it remove them. Test again and then re-install CDI and see how I go. As CDI book has TE37 in it and how to install there adn there a resistor style coil so prob should have a ballast resistor. But enough rambling let the pics speak. Below is the points notice the heat distress to the arm and the contact points all burnt. Then in the second pic notice the plastic melted at the base. This is the shaft bushing. It has melted and ran down the shaft making the points go side ways. So this has also lead me to belive possibly this failed and caused the points to go??? Cheers Cameron

Value if it is a RRR (running, reliable, rego) expect around 10 grand. There is one for sale in Brisbane near you atm for $9000. Is nto original 4K motor been cut up for after market exhaust CD player etc. Also is a base model so not an SE or SL. So no fancy features. Mine is an SL with all features apart from under dash tray. I had to put a new engine in car as original was dead. Atm car is valued over 11 grand. Reason why mine is not worth more is my body work has had 2 minor hits so is not perfect. And I did an engine swap. So a good condition one that is SL or SE atm could fetch about 16 grand that value was obtained through shannons insurance who had recently seen one sell for that value Cheers Cameron