camerondownunder88

20min DANG you need to do more cam changes..LOL

Double nut :wink: BUT I find when putting timing cover back on I undo half the sump nuts on each side so it can flex down a bit jsut losen them off. Then I put front half of rubber seal that goes under timing cover in sump with string threaded around it. When putting cover on I touch the top of it against block first while slowly bringing the bottom towards the engine with the string work the seal POP and it is all sitting together. No leaks fast as about 30 seconds back together do up nuts and sump nuts. I find I can't do this trick with first half of sump nuts done up with out to much forcing and pullng on the seal. And that pulling could damage it ;) I find with above method no leaks oil free no mess :laff: DId it last week in my KE15 to ona cam chain so proven and done it many times before. Cheers Cameron

hi, I got the cam and the lifters were brand new items I put 1000miles on the lifters and put my new cam in. I asked at cam grinder he said oh the lifters will be fine wont need new ones..... So hopping with new lifters this will be fixed. I could only see one from the il cap not turning when running so hopping ti is just the one. Might take a straight edge from work today to see if I have destroyed the lifters. Might have to get them re-ground. As for spark plugs cool :wink: I shall go looking for a set of them. Might start with the recomended 5 and see how they go and take it from there. Also as for my run in I did 30min above 2000RPM like you should again cam grinder told me to do that so should be run in fine. As for oil cooler site Ill have a look into there stuff. Also picked up more goods for the sprinter topday in the post so stay tunned :laff: Cheers Cameron

I know doesn't take much to warp an old alloy head ;) But in good news picked up some oil today new oil filter coolant and 4 new lifters. When I was running engine with rocker cover off noticed some lifters not spinning :wink: so went today to get some new 3F Toyota lifters from the local parts shop. Got the last 4 on the shelf (hasn't sold them since I bought the first lot to put in the 5K..LOL) so only enough to do 2 cylinders worth but WOW $15 each SHIT. Thinking I'll have to go the chev route for the next 5K build purely because there are more and there more on demand...LOL Also noticed when pulling my 5K head off that I was running BPR5EY spark plugs for a flat top K motor WTF..lol So need to change to proper plugs with the 7mm long tip BUT What is the plug number for these plugs? I need a normal number so I can match it to a colder plug seeing my head will come back shaved etc. But I also piced up this little beauty. Yes it is a HKS K motor oil cooler plate thing. WIll need it for the next spiffy 5K I am building for the KE15. Is a thermo controlled one so lets oil warm before cooling think thermo stat is at 74 degrees C atm. But it is variable from a quick look I had. Came off a KP61 starlet in Japan with very low race KM can tell as it is also so clean..LOL So this will match up well with my oil cooler new in box I got at a swap meet for $20 :laff:. Is a factory ford one NOS like 3 years old some guy had so now just to get rubber hoses but there easy enough to get. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Thanks for that info kangaroosa and Taz for the link :lol: Did some reading and found RX-7 s1 front inserts (1978-1980) are as follows: Body diameter: 38mm 394mm collapsed 576mm extended When I convert kangaroosa measurements there similar so we can be safe to use these. Now KE1X front inserts are as follows: Gabriel part number 44753 Length extended: 690mm Length compressed: 490mm Body length: 428mm diameter of insert at narrowest part: 39.16mm Diameter of insert at top for locating nut: 41.40mm So if we do that maths KE1X shocks have 200mm total travel. RX7 s1 shocks have 182mm by my measurements or by Kangaroosa measurements: 180.975mm So this is similar to KE1X and is with in an inch of difference so this will suit :blinks: Extended length is 120mm shorter than KE1X items. Currently with my custom made springs and KE30 shocks I have 30mm TO much shock absorber travel. So this will take away that 30mm and compress the spring by 90mm. I am wondering if that is too much compression but initially? Thoughts? But I have ordered a cheap set of gabriel shocks for a RX-7 s1 brand new cost me $45 CHEAP old stock you see and tax time so places getting rid of stuff CHEAP..lol So I will trial fit them. If there good to go great if not I shall have to then look at MR2 shocks. Cheers Cameron

Hello, Update time :lol: First off suspension: Not much progress here so nothing to post yet. So that then brings me to the other issues. From my large list I have managed to fix: - oil leak front harmonic balancer seal - badly want to put in an over flow catch tank for radiator (fun not having one but prob a very sensible thing to add does help) - drivers door hinge adjusted (I re-pinned but needs adjusting hard to close and not sitting right) - Install after market cam a KE70 4K-C cam is SHIT in a 5K So first off the oil leak. I did the cam at the same time as the leak so kill 2 birds one stone. The oil leak was coming from the front seal around the harmonic balancer. One day I went for a 100Km drive in the KE15 and used 3L of oil :dance: Made my engine bay black so I had enough. Time to get off ass and fix it. But I though why pull down car and not do the cam. As a KE70 cam shaft in a 5K made peak power at 4 grand. Car on the 100km/h speed limit with low ratio diff in 4th was sitting on 4 grand the car drank fuel and was a torque weapon down low but nothing past 4 grand :( So I took a spare cam to iven tighe and got it re-ground to 154 spec. Can be seen on their page below: http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm This cam is the same grind as the 424 cam but with not as much lift so I don't need to change my valve springs :blinks: Made life easier. So got this ground and I took a spare 5K timing cover I owned to work and put it through the acid tanks cleaned it up like new :blinks: So then to install a new oil seal. Now this is what was causing the oil leak why you say... Well the 5K engine from factory has a thinner seal than a 3K or 4K motor. The seal also sits more forwards in the timing cover. So this motor once when new got all bed in with a 5K seal. Was re-built poorly (not by me) and they used the seal in the kit which was a 3K thick seal. This ran for a while but put an extra grove in the harmonic balancer :( So when I got the motor I saw this went oh not the right seal popped in a new 5K Toyota item. LEAK the correct seal not has this wide groove it can't seal due tot eh 3K seal making it wider and adding another grove :( So engine pumped out oil. So When cover was cleaned up I popped in a 3K seal and all fixed not one leak. I will also note I polished the harmonic balancer shaft a tad to ;) So cam went in and that fine and it was ready to bed in. Went well one minor water leak at first then all was good after fixing it. Cam went much better power starts at about 3750 RPM finishes at 7000RPM. so cam works great on the highway. I found idle bit rougher. With a KE70 4k-c cam in the 5K I was getting about 19-20 in of vacuum and with the bigger cam I now only get 11 inches :( But with old cam on the highway I would only pull 11 inches. Now with new cam WOW pulls 18 inches solid at 4000RPM so put foot down engine is running efficiently and zoom your gone. Car now goes off the speedo :blinks: Pretty quickly to I might add..LOL Car now pulls to 7 grand EASY as but the stock coil and ignition let it down starts to miss at high RPM :( So I fitted a Accel super coil 65,000 volts to the car I got from a swap meet told it was a good working coil. YEAH RIGHT. Coil you could hear it shorting out inside the coil car barely run and I could only get 11,000 volts from it max :( Stock coil gave me 20,000 Volts so removed coil got angry threw it in the bin. So still looking for a better coil now :( So while putting in a cam I also attached an overflow bottle made from a 600mL coke bottle :blinks: It works holds water etc etc. Now for the EPIC FAIL Last weekend while driving out to Beerheads place to see him I was cruising along at 100km/H and BOOM the loudest bang I have ever heard. And all of a sudden the heater in the car went cold OH SHIT. Middle of no where the heater hose blew a hole pumping out all my engine water instantly :( car temp sky rocketed. I was lucky as I was 1 street away from Beerheads place so was near water :blinks: Did a temp fix on hose at his place with some metal tube and more clamps. But below is a picture of the section of blown pipe: This pipe I bought from Supercheap 3 weeks ago to install my heater again. Tube had no nicks, tears, damage etc. But still blew. Brand is Gromet and it is SHIT. Single wall piss weak re enforcing crap. :( So drove around for the week with the temp fix as well didn't leak etc. And on Friday just gone I decided to buy some better hose. I went to my mates shop he sells hydraulic line for trucks. I got 2 meters worth of hose suitable for hot fluids rated to 20 BAR at 100PSI. Should hold my 1.1Bar the KE15 has. So this morning I decided what better time to install my new hose. well was I in for a surprise :( I drained the coolant system and put in new hose clamped it up and then re-filled the coolant system. I noticed the drain bung in the bottom of my radiator had a slow drip leak ok have to fix that. But then I noticed a lot of White smoke coming from the exhaust :(. So ran got a piece of paper and held it at muffler tip for 1 min. No black particles on paper after 1 min or oil residue or oily smell. But paper was WET AS :( Ten it hit me I blew the head gasket when the motor over heated :( FAIL. so I went back tot eh engine and opened radiator cap yep every say second or so one small bubble would rise up :( So pissed as I stopped the car and got stuck into removing the head. I timed my self took me exactly 28 min 4 seconds to remove manifolds, carbies, extractors, ignition leads, spark plugs, rocker cover, and head. Was quite pleased with my self. To my surprise I found out this 5K I have is SHIT..lol In cylinder 3 just at bottom just above the piston at bottom dead centre like a section of the bore is missing :( But the head warped bad. cylinder 2 was squeaky clean from steam :( and it looked like in the past week after driving water pressure built up and pushed its way into cylinder 4 and would sit there. so it was a bit crap from thsi also :( So in short I need a new 5K built fast..LOL But for now I'll just fix cylinder head and re-install. So Rung my mate who owns Precision Engine Reconditioning in Ipswich and got a good deal on facing the head flat again, 4 angle valve grind, crack test, all cleaned up, and ported :dance: Head will be due back on this coming wed if all goes well :dance: So this week my goal is to clean up the block neat as and get the engine running again by the weekend. I am just so pissed this car has been running shit than great than shit then great JUST WORK DAM IT..lol Well I shall keep you all posted on progress hope car goes again after I put the head on. So now it is also time to get into top gear on building my 5K for this motor and collecting parts :dance: Cheers Cameron

YES. Would be AWESOME if you could have a look at least I know they do fit..LOL I take it this front end was in a KE2X? Was it lowered at all? Cheers Cameron

Heheheh Yes I am looking at using these shocks in my KE15. But need to know meassurements diameter and max length are really the MOST needed. Would be awesome if you can find info from your mate. Cameron P.S. That rotor forum your on does it have info?

Quick reply. Got a clutch. I got a sports tuff KE70 kit the button clutch kit with more clamping force and that but got a stock KE1X clutch plate thrown in :lol: Was $210. Think thats a good price..LOL So now to get bolts to attach the clutch to the flywheel :blinks: http://www.probolt-australia.com/Home This flywheel will one day end up behnd my hot 5K which might happen sooner than later after probably destroying the 5K in my KE15 today :blinks: Cameron

Yep female owner :lol: I know the one....I want it..lol

Trev I know of a KE15 that is aqua/blue ish around that area is auto one owner NICE as. Fully optioned also is an SL so very nice. Cameron

Hi, Been looking around now and so far have come up with nothing. What I am searching for is the measurements for RX-7 shock absorbers for series 1. What I am after is: Length compressed: Length uncompressed: OD of insert: thread on end of insert: length of insert body: If anyone knows this info any of it I would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Cameron

If you also look at the shape of a TRD inlet port ona TRD head and how much there ground out with out the plate you can't run stock manifolds even a big port one you would grind right through the manifold and can't weld them thicker as bolts wont hold them on as metal would be in the way so the extra port length gave more freedom. There are also 2 different lengths of TRD up right manifold depending on the tune you bought for them. In a KE1X Id go for the short ones as you need the room. Also up righting the engine gave much better flow back to the sump for oil. As after racing the KE15 around pop the rocker cover off and you will see a great example of how about 1L of oil sits in the back of the head over cylinder 4..LOL But TRD also then matched a HEAP of extra parts to the up right kit. FOr instance they addeda cam driven oil pump for a dry sump the dry sump you could buy was cast so the bottom of it was flat when motor was up righted etc. Cheers Cameron

My TRD parts book for the year 2001 list a relabeled TODA fly-wheel as a TRD item. They did that to their shocks, CDI units etc and I bet a TRD one would be harder to get..LOL But for an update on the thread... Ordered a KE70 heavy duty sports clutch kit today and a KE1X clutch stock OEM clutch disk :jamie: Should be in the shop tomorrow. I rang exeedy but and got individual part numbers for the K motor clutch parts so you can ring and order them I'll dig the note out of my wallet later and post them for further reference and could stick them in the FAQ. Cheers Cameron

auction house in japan. Jun still make them new can order one here for posted and all for $1500 AU I worked out after contacting them and that etc. And at that rate it would be worth more than the car itself..LOL TODA have stopped making K fly wheels. Cameron That price I got was at AU$1 = 70 yen

Well if I get my massive water leak in the KE15 fixed I might attend seeing I now have nights to my self again :jamie: Cameron

As for TRD mounts he uses AE86 rubber with DIY up rights nothing special. As for the engine possibly a class thing, He mentions economy in a post so possibly that also a 5K in Japan might be hard to get I don't know can't say for sure. But from my view a 5K would of been the better option. Cameron

Actually I meant He did run a 4 speed. He has not put a 5 speed in it as of the 16th of this month. Use google translator you can read his blog about it. Does enduro racing with it 24 hour evens. And he still tuned the car to 140HP not bad for a 4K that runs 24hr straight ina race. Cameron

YAY no touching of unwanted part. KE70 clutch pressure plate fits over stock KE1X clutch disk easy as no interfering with other parts :jamie: Think I am liking option one Taz that is what I was thinking I have to see my guy tomorrow arvo to see what I can order and ill get the clutch :jamie: Also noticed when I pulled the clutch off the KE17 (original clutch still on motor ) on the 6 bolts retaining the flywheel they all had a locking plate that they screwed on top of and the tabs bent up over the bolts. Has anyone else seen this before? As in all my time the cars I have removed motors from K ones that is and that never seen this. Might of been a factory thing. But locktie is jsut as good..LOL Cheers Cameron

http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/kira_jidousya/fol...ml?m=lc&p=1 There is the web page for the KE10. I clicked around a heap and got to the shop that built that 4K doesn't look to extreme an engine build from what I could tell his tacho stops at 6 grand and runs an early KE2X/3X gear bos so dare say low ratio diff pulls great down low gets to max RPM fast that is how he did it. But well done gives me inspiration. Cameron

Hi, I could try walkers but I have just sourced exeedy clutches a mate can get cost price direct from them 1 day for delivery. SO Ill see if he can get individual parts then prob go kit as yeah would be a waste to have 2 half kits on the shelf. Cameron

Fun cars can't be engineered...LOL Good work projects take time glad to see this one happening. Cam

Here you go there's the back.....This think is thin as and tough as. Has 5000km on it and the friction surface is like NEW. Back shows some signs of heat but nothing that has killed metal structure. Can see ring gear teeth are a bit worse for wear but I am in the process of grinding and hand polishing them back to required shape etc at work as I do that for a living a bit so it's a spare time job cleaning it up..LOL Will keep all posted on Monday how fit-ment of late clutch pressure plate and early clutch plate and a gear box go on Monday. Also Thanks HEAPS KENut for the rough price just so I know what I'm getting my self into. Should be able to get clutch at trade price so if I can get 2 kits for about $200 ill be happy. As the left over parts will work in the daily driver with other parts from my mountain of old clutch parts..LOL Cheers Cameron

In reply to parrot I just ran out side and looked. A KE17 clutch pressure plate looks like it can't be easily drilled to suit a 3 pin flywheel. I say easily as a few welds hammer etc could be done not cheap but. And if I can just buy a 3 pin clutch pressure plate and use an early clutch disk why go to the mess of re-drilling ill just buy 2 clutch kits to make one. Also if I get a KE30-70 clutch kit they do a sports one with up rated pressure plate I belive. WIll have to ring them monday to find out more accurate info I feel. But has anyone recently bought a exeedy clutch for a KE what are they worth? Cheers Cameron

Well that lead me to think now if a KE1X rear housing can swap to a KE2X/3X box I htink no. As the KE1X shifter has that plate arrangement to stop you going into reverse etc built into the shifter (that's why I have never made a short shift kit for the KE15..LOL) and the KE2X and later boxes it is just the ball on a stick arrangement. I actually threw out a KE2X box a few moons ago wish I didn't now..LOL Any one in QLD got a broken box to donate for measuring and seeing if I can adapt housings? Also reminds me KE1X starters bolt onto the gear box with through bolts. Late model starters bolts thread into the starter. So again small difference there in bell housing requires drilling I have al ready done this to my KE15 as I run a a KE70 starter. Cheers Cameron