camerondownunder88

My estimate would be above normal to high.

Hi, The Dam can hold 150% then on the western side is a rock wall the water pushes the rocks out at 150% then flows out around dam. Can see this on tv. The dam can hold 200% at this point its structural integrity starts dropping off. So lets hope not much more flows in. Learnt that on a dam tour once I did there :) Now NOT TO ALARM ANYONE atm this is only news I have heard from a wollies manager (neighbour) he said due to danger and lack of stock no Ipswich woolies will be open tomorrow so lets hope we all have food I don't forgot to shop today :( dam. Also as of 11pm tonight swan bank due to coal not getting through and the danger of pumping power into flooded waters will be cut to areas of Ipswich at 11pm and through out the flooded time. So charger batteries now. Cameron

Hi, I got home form work today at 10am after opting to go home early (i work on river to so Ill be going back to work to clean up) But this is a phot at back fence of creek behind my place. We are higher than 74 flood level but been here 15 years and never seen water this high. ANd i took meassurements earlier today thsi creek rose 15cm in 20min. And under this water is walk ways park etc that council decided to build in this creek as it never floods and is dorment...yeah right..LOL Cameron

Hi, I belive difference is between the early dash and later dash. Also some have a metal cover others are aluminium cover internally some parts have a different part number indicating their different some how not sure my self but I think Toyota refined the KE1X steering a lot over the years they made it so takes a few KE1X steering boxes to make one good one..LOL Cheers Cameron P.S. On the tie rod tubes I have looked no part number change between fine to course thread in Toyota books so they changed it over night and didn't up date the system so interesting.

Hi, I know of quite a few RC members my self included who are in this area. Lets all hope we get through this ok. Especially the members of Toowoomba and gatton. Cameron

Hello, Just add soem info to this. If you do find a KE1X steering box be ware there are 2 types. Will not interchange. It is to do with length of shaft from steering wheel to the box. Also I went looking for bearings to replace them once. Found one $60. The other one was about $300 from over seas. Was an odd made for Toyota bearign I think. Id stick with Philbey idea and use KE2X box. Can still get NOS parts for them and i will probably do this also one day. Cameron

My KE15 is a 4.22 I belive in the smaller Jap diff with 6inch centre. I also have a 4.4 gear for it from a KE18 wagon I belove. TRD did make gear for these diffs to ranging from 3.X right down toa 5.1 that I have seen so not really street gears..LOL Cameron

^^^ hehehe on the money :) Yes dug up one of many radiators I have (found 6 don't know where they all came from) But got the best suited for the job. Is a KE1X item all stock. So getting re-core (pending price will be 3 row) and top tank inlet getting moved and the lower inlet on the KE1X radiator is metal pipe comes out and bends up. I have never had issues with that as rubber pipe is smaller and if running a KE30 lower hose pushed the top part of the hose up over the alternator so I shall be keeping the bottom stock. As I have never stuffed a lower hsoe. I also run the original external reg alt. Not sure if later alternators had a larger fan etc or sit forwards more as I know the front housing changes and the arm to hold them changes. But I currently run a KE2X rad works good but mmm feel not quite right. Gets a tad warm fan comes on if I stop at lights even. But Should be noted I run a 600mL coke bottle over flow zip tied to side of radiator :) solved so many issues and hardly have to fill the radiator up :) You should invest..lol Cameron

^^^Not many around I get them from japan. But not many come up at all. Not much KE stuff in Japan now..LOL Cameron

there is upright kit on yahoo auctions at the moment :) ^^^No there isnt.......lol Cameron

^^^ SV21 radator...LOL Yes problem is I have the KE15 is a narrow radator mroe narrow then KE30 to KE70. So a radator up grade for me is a KE30 radator. This would be a cheaper way for me to move my water outlet but the problem is if I put one in there a little thicker and the plates you have to make up to squeeze them in push it slightly closer to the engine as I don't want to cut and drill holes in this KE15. ANd engien to radatorclearence is so tight I can't even fit a slim thermo fan in between the engine and radator so that is why I am thinking of moving the top pipe. Much easier in a KE70 engine bay..LOL comtoy many many many many days serching japan for a kit( and many $$). Still don't have all the kit (need gaskets and gear box mount but hey I can make them) but I got enough to make it work and many $$ late this change isnt for the faint hearted K motor fan..LOL Cameron

Hello, Yes longer manifold on ticket that came with it had KP61 so not sure if they run more room in the engine bay but hey would be the better pic. As for short one compared to my red line manifold I dare say nowhere near as vicious radius hard to tell in the pic but the runners on these are very straight and minimal casting defects best ones I have ever had. So I think they will both be good but hey see how we go as end of the day will only be on the car with a slanted engine for install tuning ;) As for the solex KEI069 that is 6 months of hand re building there. I found a great trick while studying at uni is have a break between study and re build a carbie a bit at a time. SO they are many work lunch breaks on lapping and polishing machines and everything and in cleaning tanks at work then slowly reassembled at home during study over 6 months I got the pair but I am very happy with them. They are probably better than factory every surface lapped flat and true and square and all new jets all new seals all new ground flat throttle shafts all new gaskets list goes on......lol But I hope it was worth it. Also they are type R solex so they have up dated retaining systems for the ventures etc so these ones wont wiggle lose on me..LOL Cheers Cameron

Here is a pic of manifolds and one of my solexs and spacer and gaskets and ram tubes I shall be using. For filters I plan to use oiled socks with spring in side them to stop them getting sucked in. Cameron Pic:

Hello, We thanks all for input :) And cheers KE1069 for the pics :) Now My cam is about 2700-7000RPM ish where it makes power. Now I have measured my parts for lengths accurately and was hoping if I could get others to do rough measurements that would be good to for comparisons :) So here are my measurements: Ram tubes: 42.72mm long Heat shield spaces for carbies: 8.01mm Heat spacer gaskets: 1.02mm (need 2 per carbie) 40mm PHH type R: 117.96mm long (I lapped these a bit to square them up so others might be a few thou longer). 2 manifolds to suit: Long runner type: 108.48mm roughtly along centre line of runner. Short:80.00mm long along centre line of runner. So I whipped out a head I had sitting on my bedroom floor placed my short manifold on it and roughly from the top of the manifold face to the centre of the carburetor face with short manifold is 66.58mm. That is less KE1069 as he has 72mm so I should be good for clearance :) But KE1069 question did you re-jet your carbies? As I see you have type S5 solex carbies and they were standard on the 2T to 18R-g motors so wanting to know did you re-jet or leave the old jets in the carbies? Cheers Cameron

Hi, Now I am after pictures of KE1X with TRD up right kits if people have them? OR Info from someone who has done an up righted K motor in a KE1X. I have the issue with my radiator the top inlet to the tank is very close to the centre of the car and with a slanted stock K motor the top hose is very short with a sharp radius. I just blew my radiator on the KE15 so I am going re-core and since I am up righting a 5K in it soon Was thinking of shifting the top inlet over to the side more. But if I can find info off people here with what they have done when up righting K motors in there KE1X it would help lots with ideas as I it might be best to go a larger radator etc. As I don't wanna pay a stack of cash for nothing to do this radiator mod and it not work..LOL Cheers Cameron

here it is:

Hello, How legal is it fitting HID's to a car that didn't have them..also a pre ADR car? I have been toying with the plan of getting circa 1960's spot lights for front of KE15 as bumper has holes for them as I have original set in boot and fitting HID's to them. SO I can see at night and can flick them off for old Thomas Edison look lighting. SO keen for pics and what is their beam like? don't you need fancy reflectors to get there light focused right? Also dizzy O/H will do a treat :) Where you get kit from a mates 4age need this done? Cameron

They were made for the K motor yes by TRD. RARE as not an off the shelf item here. THey were known to have lubrication problems and the gear teeth sheered off so not recommended for road if you did find a set. Cameron

Hi, Felt this thread was lacking mmm KE1X info..LOL KE1X tie rods have 2 thread types. Course and fine. Course thread is M12X1.5 Fine thread is M12X1.25 Length of a KE1X tie rod is 138mm long. Hope this helps those KE1X owners Cheers Cameron

Hi, Been hidding in the back ground lately but finally getting back into doing suff to my KE15. So the time has come to install a set of side draft carbies. I have decided to go with Solex PHH 40 carbies....now hides from flaming.... But anyway after hunting around I felt the JDM style manifolds suited me best with cast linkages and better arrnagement for linkages. So I bought 2. Fist one is a short runner second manifold is a longer runner. Now I know manifold length will affect performace of a motor so how should I match a manifolds length to engine specs? So now for my engine specs: 5k JDM deep dish Shaved head for 195PSI compression average over 4 cyclinders. Inlet and exhaust ports de-burred and slightly jsut a tad re shapped so minor porting. 3f sold lifter conversion Dirty pacemaker 4-1 off the shelf KE1X extractors Now the cam....cam sheet below: SO now you know my engien specs how do I match a manifold to this motor. What would suit best length wise? I shall get pics etc up of manifolds tomorrow. Cheers Cameron

I probably worded that wrong. You need billet so it is harder but not HARDER than the roller. Stock cast metal after a grind is to soft for a roller lifter. As one of the main points of running roller lifters is to run massive ramp rates and a soft stock cam with a huge ramp rate the roller wears if not removes the peak of the cam. My cam grinder will re case harden cams and treat them comes as an extra cost but. Cameron

Hi, Well Billet I can see one good reason for getting one. If you want to run roller lifters in a K motor. You can't use them on a stock cam shaft. My cam grinder refused to sell me a set of roller lifters as the roller has harder material than a stock cam and he said I wont be happy when I drop a few lobes seconds after starting it. He would only do a billet cam if I wanted rolelr lifters. So not crazy this guy also does billet K cams off the shelf. Another reason is TRD bored out the cam shaft bearing lands and made larger diameter cam shaft bearings for better load distribution with the higher spring pressures the twin valve springs run etc so if I went biller it also copy TRD would be easy to find off the shelf bearings of larger diameter and fit them. Again not cheap but if you want the goods need the $$. Cameron

YES. What a ride pitty voting for car of the year has nearly closed..LOL Lou glad you worked out how to post after I showed you :) Top marks. Have to get in contact again soon. Cheers Cameron

I don't support hooning...But other week I was at QR drifting and swear I saw this KE70 getting around there..LOL I didnt think a KE70 could pull a skid that big :lolcry:

I was keen jsut hadnt expressed interest as of yet KE15 is mess but running..LOL But id only do an ippy night and Friday is out for me atm so guess I wont see it. Cam