5K Camshaft (Remove And Install)

[Zoidburg]

Hi all,

 

Attempting to remove the existing camshaft from my 5K to replace it with a new one. My Gregory's handbook states the sump needs to be removed in order to remove the timing cover. It then states the engine needs to be taken out to remove the sump. As the engine is still in the car, this poses a problem for me!

 

Does anybody who's done this before know for certain if this is true?

 

I hope I can remove the timing cover without all this hassle.

 

Thanks.

Edited December 2, 2010 by Zoidburg

[philbey]

It depends - from the factory, the timing cover is fitted with two studs that prevent you from easily removing the timing cover. Many people replace these studs with machine screws (bolts) which means they're much easier to remove. The downside of bolts is that you can grossly overtighten them and destroy a gasket.

 

If you still have studs, don't worry, you only need to lower the sump enough to get them clear to pull the timing cover off. with a Jack, a set of axle stands, a couple of socket sets with extenders and universal joints you can drop the sump enough.

 

Basically, put your car up on the axle stands, put the jack underneath the gearbox, undo your engine mounts and jack the gearbox and motor up. You need to play with the heights a little depending which sump nuts you undo, some are easier if it's lower, some are easier if it's higher.

 

Also, take the engine mounts off completely, it's not difficult to do and will give you much more room.

 

A socket with extender is easy, a 3/8 drive is idea, I have a 1/2 drive and it's too big to do the back nuts and a couple over the crossmember with a uni on it.

 

You can actually remove a sump with the motor in the car, it's tricky but I've done it plenty of times.

 

BUT - be warned, the hardest bit is bolting the sump back in properly. I'd put in a new gasket as a must and DO NOT use silicon. Permatex No 5 non hardening gasket is the ducks nuts for sealing a sump and don't tightent it very much.

[Zoidburg]

Thanks so much!

 

I can do all of that in the shed! :)

 

With any luck it has bolts and not studs, so I can just remove the timing cover on its' own. I have a brand spanking new Genuine Toyota cam to go in it, which is why I want to persevere with the whole thing. I've not done this before, but I reckon if I mark everything out carefully I can do it.

 

I'll replace the sump gasket (of course!) and use the sealant you recommended.

 

One question though...

 

Would I also need to remove the gearbox mount (x-member)?

 

Cheers

[Evan G]

no!

 

what i found the easiest why to pull the sump is. remove nuts for engine mount. jack up the sump till the gearbox touches the firewall. stick 2 blocks of wood between engine mount and x member mount

[camerondownunder88]

Hi,

Done a cam heaps.

 

If timing cover has studs. Get your vice grips/multi grips grab stud and remove or use the 2 nut method works a treat.

 

Now to get cover back on....

 

I don't drop the sump don't even touch it. First off I get a length of waxed string. Loop it around the sump gasket and sit gasket on sump where it goes.

 

Then I hold timing cover and from top down place it against block pushing it in. When seal starts to be pushed off the sump pull on string and POP falls into place and no oil leaks :)

 

Or get a grinder and grind off the back lip of the timing cover. Still will hold oil in IF your gasket is good.

 

So a few ways there to do it with NO sump removal and can leave engine mounts in. Last time with string method (I have done many cam shaft changes) I took 30min start to finish in a KE10 so once you get good at string wont take long to remove and install.

 

Also philbey forget the No. 5 non hardening sealant :( To old. Its replacement is 515 master gasket made by loctie DAM good stuff I seal everything from cylinder heads on moto and mower with it to gas turbines I build at work good for over 1000 degrees C non flat surfaces wont harden etc. Best stuff. But be warned last time I bought some and didn't borrow works tube it was $50 for 50mL NOT CHEAP but it could seal the titanic the stuff is that good. Comes also in different grades to for different leaks etc.

 

Cameron

[altezzaclub]

Cameron we want pics!! The string idea sounds good but I can't picure how you do it.

 

Working on the sump with the motor in is such a pain I'd say take the motor out every time!

 

Really a stupid stupidly designed engine!

[Evan G]

have you seen a windscreen man fit new rubbers?

 

515? pfftttt Mitsubishi threebond is the way to go!