sorry andy43 but I could never accept that solution as a safe and reasonable proposition as far as a road going car is concerned,the sheer load on that plate would have me worried although I can certainly see how it works etc and I would assume that you are using it on a track car.

Thanks everyone for the input,looks like I'll go xt130 lca's to begin with,nolothane bushes and a full xt130 changeover later with camber tops fitted as the functioning project is refined.

 

Jimmy thats cool, I don't run it on my daily driver.

Works great on the speedway car but hey that never see's any bitumen, but remember the stresses the speedway car see's is far greater than any road car will see it its life.

Where limited by rules, I found that camber tops did not offer the adjustment I needed, swaping LCA is not allowed, strut bends are prone to failure.

 

We have a high casualty rate on all components, ( shocks 12 months, LCA, K frames, steering boxes 2 years, shells about 3 or 4 years )

Just wanted to point out some times you need to think out of the square, and sometimes it works and sometimes it dosn't.

 

If you do go down the strut bend path I would reinforce it.

 

 

Regards

Andy

Edited December 23, 201015 yr by Andy43

I like it speedway style.

 

Negative Camber and Positive Castor all in the one adaptor!

As far as tyre wear goes, you can still scrub the outside of the tyre with -3 drgrees camber adjusted in. It just depends how you drive. I run -2.2 on the street 24/7 and my fronts wear perfect, but I like to accelerate in corners. If you put 2 degrees on it and drive like a nanna you can scrub the inside, but the tyres will only wear out badly if the toe is shocking and you do a big highway spray where you don't load the edges up.

 

One of the better ways to see if your alignment is good or bad is to use an IR thermometer to measure the tread temps on the inner and outer edge of the tyre. Heat = wear so if you thrash it through the hills then stop and the outside is cold you have too much camber. Conversely if the outer is fried compared to the inside you have not enough. In general you are looking for even temps but remember for most setups it is a balance based on how the car is used. No point having -3 or 4 on most street cars, but it can work for race cars.

 

IMHO sigma parts have no place in a corolla. They give too much camber, I think if you are looking for that much camber you should use XT130 arms and adjustable tops. Its not too nice to have massively mismatched track front to rear, although slightly wider at the front is ok, you don't want to be 2 inches wider. Maybe 20-30mm.