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Andy43

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Everything posted by Andy43

  1. K&N have a handy little find section on their website you just enter the size you need and presto it finds what you need
  2. There are many variations of the 3k carby venturi size. 19,21mm were common Pri sizes 24,25mm were common Sec sizes All were mech secondary’s with a air valve in the sec venturi. The 3kb had different sizes again sorry I cannot recall the sizes. Interesting early 3k carbys all have 21mm pri and 24 mm sec and have smaller 6mm throttle shafts and later ones run 8mm shaft. Dyno shows no difference between the 24mm sec and the 25mm sec.
  3. Been reading a bit about E85. Seems like it. Eats Rubber and some Alloys Likes a AF ratio around 9/1 Likes comp ratio 13/1 Resists detonation Makes more HP. Has anyone used it ?
  4. We do the same as Altezza, weld the teeth so there is some give. If you weld out of the car make sure the pinion gear is not below where you are welding as the slag wind's up the the pinion bearing.
  5. We knock up a cheapo rebuilds for cam testing. First thing to do is find a block where there is no lip between the top ring and the face of the block, my theory here if it has a lip then needs a rebore, Yeh I know you can ridge remove but I seem to get leaky bores when I do this. Number rods and caps when removing from block. re-install in same order Measure bores and crank. Run a dunny brush hone down each bore, never use 3 prong hones as they change the bore shape, hone cost is about 80 bucks. Wash block really good heaps of soapy water and then dry really good with air compressor, then oil bores really good and keep all dirt out. Buy on ebay pistions ($60) rings ($60) bearings ($80) gaskit kit ($80) timing chain kit($80) prices are just guesses of what they normally sell for. If the block is not chemically cleaned I will reuse cam bearings. Cam regrind will cost about $120 and lifter reface about $40. Flywheel lightened about $80. When assambling be sure to time the cam in makes big difference. Make sure head bolts and threads, main brearings and threads, and big end bearings and threads are clean and oiled prior to torquing down. Get yourself a 3k yellow book from ebay. Hope this helps, if you are melb based PM me I'm rebuilding a 3k in the next few weeks you can come around and see how its done.
  6. Been reading about vacupan setup, improves piston ring sealing and hence more HP. Check out 4 stroke performance tuning by Greame Bell. its got a great section on it. The Datsun Sunny's with the 12A we race against make more HP and have better factory suspension and better aftermarket strut options. The 3k needs everybit of help it can get LOL
  7. Looking at options to create a vacuum in the sump of the 3k. (Yeh don't ask just want to dyno with the sump under vacuum see what happens to HP) was there any k series engines that came equiped with a vacuum pump ? Or does anyone know of alternator that would bolt on with a vacuum pump built it ?
  8. Yeh just spott'd my own K30, Being Valet Parked at Crown LOL.
  9. I like to leave the gear box in. I slight twist on altezzaclub theme, I like to use a piece of string to tie the bellhousing to the firewall, then when to motor goes back it just bolt it up and cut the string. Also you will find the dowel that locate's the bellhousing to the block has a habit of locating in the wrong hole, cause the motor has a tilt I always seem to get it wrong.
  10. If you want the cam to run right you will need to set it correctly. Getting it right does make a difference. I starting doing a thread on a speedway car build, I covered the cam timing in there. Hope it helps Andy http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/46468-ke30-ascf-1200-junior-sedan-build-speedway/
  11. The k engines came out with both bosch and nippon alternators. I think the 4k ones had a bigger pulley ?
  12. Snapped the centre out of the mag, Wheel studs look OK however will be dumping the whole strut assby as it was one hell of a hit. Zoe paniced and forgot to lift the right foot, the tacho recall show's just over 10,000 rpm. The damage so far. both rear rails twisted front rails bent moving the k frame 2" left. k frame bent right front lower control arm bent right front steering arm bent inlet valve number 2 bent suspect piston or ring broken number 3 panel damage (but this doesn't count as it speedway :thumbsup: ) Its off to the rack next week, then we string line it and corner weigh it so see how bad it really is. The good news is 5 minutes with the grinder and I got a new wheel spacer
  13. Did you check the fuel cutoff solinoid ?
  14. The full sequence is avaliable here http://www.inactionp...19#image=260515 Got some incar too, sorry its a bit blurry Cheers Andy
  15. There are some odd boxes out there, tailshaft spline is different and one bellhousing bolt is located in a different spot.
  16. Well Here a pix on my 11yo daughter Zoe, joining the "this way up club". Ke30's do fly. Nyora Speedway 1/2/2014 ASCF Juniors Her brother Donald as seen in the back ground won the final in a field full of datto's Hmmm now where did I put that spare k frame ?
  17. I keep seeing a nice looking Black KE30 on Wellington Rd Clayton.
  18. For the points get the XU1 points GB752 they have a stronger spring pressure, and hence bounce less
  19. What type a calipers are they, (Jap or Aussie ones ?) I have plenty of Jap ones you can have for Free. Pick up Langwarrin (AH) or Clayton (BH) PM me if interested Andy
  20. We seem to blow out, the flange gasket every two or three meets, I've just learned to live with it. My young bloke loves it, as the exhaust exits just in front of the rear wheel, once the gasket blows it throws out sprintcar type flames every time he backs off the gas. I hate it as I recon it costs HP. Cheers
  21. The 4k timing cover has larger bolts, not sure about the studs, Interesting don't seem to have a problem with the 3k. Cheers Andy
  22. The dual carb sprinter also had smaller venturi's
  23. Yep correct, 3k and 4k+ run different sump bolt patterns. BTW I like to grub screw for a stud the timing cover, this enables easy sump gasket install, and If we need to change cams, just take the grub screws out with allen key.
  24. Someone here once made the comment. The more you work em the better they sound. That what I like about em
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